Heck yeah.....for what it's worth, this guy (myself) thinks you're the best I've seen in these rebuild videos. Thank you for sharing and having the patience you have!
I have the 48RE. Changed the gov. Pressure solenoid and transducer, the 1-2 accumulator, the front servo. Adjusted the servo levers play 1 3/4 turn front and 3 turn in the rear. The rear servo lever has about an inch of play! Servo is pushed up against the snap ring. Reverse shudders. Otherwise works great. All work done in place on my 2006 25005.9L 4x4. I wish you were in Dallas!! Any help would be appreciated.
Hey Nick. I kept the existing LowReverse servo mainly for the fact of needing to drop the transfer case plus the tail of the transmission. Right now I am physically (spine injury)and financially restricted from completing that portion. I checked the height of the current piston versus the new one. They measured the same height. You should hire out for video consults! Charge an hour upfront so you don’t lose out for your time
Ha! Thanks, Scott - will def consider it...I always replace the L-R servo assemblies in all of those A904 through 48RE transmissions because the pre-existing servo is often worn at the plug bore; I replace the plugs as well because they are usually just as worn. That could be part of the problem but hard to say without seeing the condition of the servo and plug...Typically, I install the Sonnax servo and plug kit.
I agree. It is best to update all the pieces possible after 352,000 miles. The slipping reverse didn’t show up until after the other parts were replaced and servos tolerances were adjusted. 72in/lbs. back of 1.75 front, 3 rear. Is there a way that the valve body install could affect this? Did have the “click” but bolt hole lineup seemed a challenge. No metal particals the size of a grain of sand or larger found. Shift selector in the truck sometimes is hard to get Park to indicate. Trying to think of any small detail to give you clarity of symptoms. Thanks Again
At 352k, I'd also be concerned about the valve body's viability/level of wear....I'd start with the band adjustment, servo but you can check to see if the valve body somehow got misaligned as well - both could be contributing to the problem. Before removing the servo, check apply via shop air - if the servo is struggling to apply the band with 100 PSI of air, more than likely one of the lip seals got messed up on installation. Let me know if you have any more questions!
Nick, I have a question, just bought 2006 Cummins had grease monkey do transmission filter and fluid the oil was tan color and he dump the pan 5 times and it was still brown ant thoughts.
Got another question for ya - adjusting my reverse band (have Suncoast upgrades servo and brand new band). After adjustment there is no play in my lever and the band is tight against the drum. Is this kosher for a new band as it will stretch and loosen fairly quickly from what I understand.
You should be able to spin the drum with the band installed, adjusted but servo not applied. However, if you cannot then you need to turn the adjusting screw until the drum can move freely under the band. I’d go in 1/4 turn increments until it no longer binds. The band can be ever so slightly on the looser side of adjustment but it absolutely cannot be binding/tight against the drum such that the drum is siezed and cannot be rotated by hand when nothing is applying that servo.
@@nickstransmissions So it's kind of hard to explain the tightness in words. If I back off the adjustment screw just till the lever has a touch of wiggle the entire assembly rotates easily. With the adjustment set per specification the lever is tight, no wiggle and it takes an enormous amount of strength (have to hold shaft with rag) to turn the assembly, the drum will still turn under the band but you can feel the drag/resistance quite a bit. I've seen others that adjust the band so that the lever has a 1/4" of play between servo and the little bullet shaped pin that pushes on it. So should I back it off till there's just that little bit of wiggle in the lever or call it good since technically the drum can still spin?
Sounds like its still too tight..Id back off the adjustment screw another 1/4 to 1/2 turn then air check it. Again, if you have to err, err on it being slightly loose vs too tight.
@@nickstransmissions Right on, I backed it off just to the point that the lever has some wiggle. Band is snug against drum but not excessively tight. Thank you again for your invaluable insight!
@@nickstransmissions OK next question my forward clutch pack. I'm using GPZ and kolene steels. I install the 3 kolenes and 4 gpz frictions then I cant install the backing plate.
Great video. I had my 48re rebuilt, but lost reverse over 2 weeks at 6 months. When my transmission is in the truck, parked and not running, what position should the stud and set nut be in? Is there any way I could send a picture of where mine is, and if it is correct?? I'll try to explain the best I can.
Basically, the set nut is 3/4" off the band actuator lever, but still 3 threads off the end of the stud. (Like in the video) Is the set nut supposed to remain in contact with the band actuator lever at all times?? Mine is not. This also creates a large gap between the servo cover plate, and the "plunger" portion of the band actuator lever. I would think that should stay in contact with the servo cover plate, at least not be gapped by 3/4". I suspect the adjusting screw and set nut may not have been torqued. And have backed out.
Thank you, Charles. You will need to follow the ATSG service manual band adjustment procedure which is as follows: Tighten adjustmment screw down to 72 inch lbs then back off three full turns. Check drum rotation by turning the drive shaft to confirm the band isnt too tight against the drum (shaft should spin freely with no signs of binding). Once you’re sure its good, tighten the lock nut then torque to 25 ft lbs. Start it up and test reverse.
Clutch fan? Do you mean to say 'fan clutch'? To be clear, is the transmission remaining in 3rd gear and not upshifting at all or can you feel it shift into 4th but instead of grabbing the gear it feels like it's in neutral? Do you have any DTCs? If so, what are they?
Hi Yiyo, are you saying reverse works but it won't move on its own when in drive but it will move if you put the shifter down in manual low then upshift?
