ABS & BRAKE Light FIX "Ground Cleaning" 

Will this help with the service brake booster??

did your lights turn off

Think this is the issue with my 99 Sierra. The lights turn on and off randomly. I would do this before a module job definitely.

@@MrHuck was the on and off caused by a loose ground?

@@Professional_ProCraftinator Still haven’t fixed it. I think the ground is ok. Wonder if speed sensor might need replacing? Mostly commute with my Civic so haven’t never got back to solving it.

Which degreaser? I really need to clean mine as well mine has 290,000 miles

Thanks for the help had the same exact problem and that fixed mine

This works sometimes. I tried it on my mom's Tahoe with no luck.

They are charging me 1,600 and all they gonna do is clean those cables

have any luck with it?

Yes and no. Cleaning the grounds fixed some lights. Adding soldered in wire grounds right at the ABS module by the frame fixed all but 1 code. The last code is U1000 and I'm stuck on that one. Already tried 2 new abs modules with no luck.

Thinking about doing it too

Did it work? I think this might be what's wrong with my Monte Carlo.

Changed that many which means you’re probably a mechanic… stop being a mechanic and become a technician. You can program them yourself and furthermore you don’t need to program… you gave yourself the solution… they’re had solder joints… re solder them. Dealerships aren’t needed for anything anymore. He module is already considered bad. You’re not going to learn anything until you practice. Open it up and try your hand at repairing it. There’s far more money in the trade once you learn this. I teach my guys that everything is fixable. That if it has to be sent off for someone else to fix this means you can fix it yourself. The people that fix ajd refurbish these sorts of units aren’t super human and anything done by them can be done by YOU!

What car? I think I have the same my abs and brake light is on

Going to try this rn on my 01 Chevy Tahoe will give you feedback

Same with mine. First it was the abs light. Went to work on my shaft. Then the break light came up too. And the fluid level is ok. Mine is a Honda civic 2006. Please help

Is it fix now, Brandon?

@@dianneanderson731 They always Say They're Going to Report Back....Give an Update.... Yada, Yada, Yada.... And Never Do.... I'm Not Holding My BREATH.... BillinL.A. 11-05-2021.

Still waiting on that report back 😭😭😭😭

Did it work? And what did you use to clean the bolts? Thanks I’m advance

Which light was u getting i have a 03 thats saying service brake booster but brakes work fine

@@jonathangrinnell2932 both abs and brake light. It came back on though. I even replace abs sensor and it came back on. I'm going to send it to the shop and see if I can have them reset it or something to it.

There’s 3 others that you should look at as well. The first is between the hood and the firewall. The second is between the firewall and behind the engine block between the firewall and the engine block. There’s actually two in this location one goes with a braided line at the same firewall location that the hood line attaches to. The other is a small single line on the passenger side between the firewall and the rear engine block. That particular one is very hard to undo the bolt. I ended up cutting it as low as I could and re-running the ground to the first firewall attachment point. So between those six grounds I think of that covers most of them

Yup, always a good idea to clean up grounds when you see them. Especially in the areas known for rust and corrosion.

I am pretty sure dads axle has more issues than grounds but it's a good idea to clean them when you are working around them.

True his axle could need major repair but I always try the simple things first. Learned that from experience lol I put a lot of time into repairs and found out it was a ground or something.

Use whatever it takes to get to bare metal.

Glad I could help.

@@mossman381 Now for the dang knock sensor code that keeps showing up in the OBD2 reporting... :)

Please let me know if this fixed your problem cause I'm having the same issue.

Sometimes it works sometimes it don't. It didn't work on my moms 2001 Tahoe.

Interesting :)

Yup, fixed a few of those.

I Romped on My 2000 Yukon XL to make a Quick Get - Away Procedure ... For a Fast and Furious Few Blocks.... Then the Red " Engine Overheated " Light Came on, Which I had Never Seen Before, or Knew there was one, Also The OBD Code Was Checked, Found Out that the Computer Takes Over to Assist the Throttle Body / Gas Flow ... To Help Save The Engine.... Steam came Out From Under the Hood, The Engine Had No More Power ... I lifted the Hood, Saw that the Cheap Rotted Tan Nylon Adapter / Fitting attached to the Heater Core Outlet was Broke Off --- with the Heater Hose Laying Down Beside the Pass . engine. The Broken Nozzle was Still clamped in the End of the Hose. I was Stranded... Until, I found an aluminum bar close to 5/8" Dia. , Onboard. I Removed the Second Heater Hose, Pushed the Bar into both Hoses and Re- Clamped Both. Had to put back about 4- Gallons of Water... In the Reservoir Tank.... Since there is No Radiator Cap....that I Know Of, Hoping I did Not Harm this Wonderful Used 5.3 L motor. Drove to AutoZone , Did Not Know if I was Going to need a Dealer Only Adapter Nozzle.... But a Knowledgeable Parts Man Took Me to the " Help " Parts Section , Showed Me the PKG. For " GM " , it had the Squeeze Release/ Snap Lock... Like a Snake Bites... It was Hard to pry off the Broken Nozzle, I kind of Chewed it off with a Big Pair of Water Pump Pliers , That I was Blessed to Have onboard.... At the Time , Not Many More Tools than That , on Board.... It was a Pathetic Experience... Exasperating. But All Turned Out Well, Back to Normal , and No Leaks , The Heater Functions Fine, the Engine Has Power.... ( I really Would Suggest Buying / Carrying a 5/8 " Straight Tube Barbed connector, with 2- Clamps , on board.... Just to Quick Fix Such a Problem, if at Least , Temporarily...!! The Engineering / Mounting of Such Cheap , Weak Plastic Nozzles/ Adapters for a Hot Water - Pressurized System is Absurd...!! This Should have Never Been Designed this Way.... Or Used in the Coolant- Heater System , in the First Place.... That Nozzle was Rotted / Weak , And Simply Exploded Apart under High Pressure Conditions. I Had Nice Buick Le Sabre do A Very Similar Situation... While Traveling Down the Freeway, Going to Work... Unknowingly -- a Cheap / Plastic Fitting Exploded near the Top of the Engine , ( it may have been a " Y " fitting , or straight Tube... Exploded ... By the time I took the Next Exit.... The engine was Destroyed. AAA towed it to my Mechanic... Cost Me $1500. To Replace the Motor. The Mechanic Stated " This would have Never Happened.... If the Fitting was Metal , Most People usually Switch it Out to Metal ... For Just a few Dollars....". To Prevent this from Happening ". I hope this Dissertation Helps Somebody --- Before it Happens ... To Them. It's a Damn Shame to think of all of that Wasted , Good Machinery , and Money Squandered... Due to Cost Cutting Manufacturing. And Poor Design , incorporating eventual Failure. I Rest My Case. BillinL.A. 4-22-2022.

You need your gauges rebuilt. That is a common problem on these trucks. I believe the circuit board has solder joints that are broken. That is why your indicator is gone. It probably started turning off and on then finally went dead.

@@mossman381 Thank you 🙏🏼 and that’s exactly what happened - it flickered for awhile and then !POOF! it was lights out

I would call that a mod not a fix :)

.....but it was free! Also removed the stupid shift light. I don’t need that! I can see the tach.

I remember those shift lights. They always want you to shift pretty early I thought. I liked to get a bit more rpms before I shifted.

Yeah, like they wanted super fuel efficiency or something.

Glad it helped!

Yes, they come on together. They were never on separately. They would just randomly turn on while going down the road.

They’re attached to the frame right behind the drivers wheel

Nope, I showed everything I did.

Not sure. It's pretty hard to diagnose a problem without seeing it in person.

Froggy - did you clean the grounds and did it solve your problem? I’m glad you said the wheel speed sensors may not be an issue I don’t wanna spend money on those unless I know they’re bad. I cleaned all my grounds and even re-ran some. What appears to have gone off for good but I think it came on momentarily at one point but I’m not sure

@@condor5635 Pretty sure it's the abs MODULE, driver side under rocker panel. On the frame, has brake lines attached.

Worth a try.

Mine did the same. Coming on after doing a brake job.

If you don't have this exact truck, then you have to crawl around under yours and look. There should be grounds on your frame. I would suggest cleaning all you can find. It sure won't hurt anything having good clean grounds.

@@KodyMurray I am not sure. A good thing to do is crawl around under the truck and clean any ground you find. It sure won't hurt anything.

When wheels lock up that is usually the wheel speed sensor.

Did it work for you? Hope so!

The e brake pedal pull up with hand while you release parking brake

It could be the sensor on the front of the truck. I have heard the plug can get corroded. I would unplug it clean it with electrical cleaner. Put some dielectric grease in the plug and see if that works. If not it's probably the sensor itself is bad. When you mess with airbag stuff I would unhook the battery and wait 10 minutes before touching it.

mossman381 will do. Thanks again!!

No, you have other bigger issues if your pedal is going to the floor.

I think you should be 14 or so. Dual batteries shouldn't change anything.

Anything you want to get good metal to metal contact.

@@mossman381 much appreciated

Not really sure about an s10. I would guess it wouldn't be far from the abs module. I believe it is in the engine bay of an s10 so i would look around it. Maybe the frame below it.

@@mossman381 Ok will give that a try. Thank you

They are still off. Mine were pretty random.

Pretty much the reason I do all my own repairs.

@@mossman381 best way to do it. Repairs are always the small stuff and shops will go straight to the big stuff

Not these days probably more like $90 minimum

No they will tell you it's a bad viscous coupler in your transfer case making that noise and try to charge you $2300 to fix it, after you asked them to scan ABS cuz you think ABS pump is doing something funky but the ABS light isn't coming on at all but you just have a feeling that's what it is, so you end up taking their word on it cuz you have no experience with AWD vehicles and they swear that's the problem they've seen it a million times it's the exact sound, so you spend $400 and an entire Saturday swapping the viscous coupler just for the sound to still be there and it turns out these people never even scanned ABS. Ask me how I know.

Ok then you could have found and fixed the issue yourself

Don't know anything about a honda but I would assume that if your abs and brake lights are on you could have a similar ground issue.

Yes, it can. You can try cleaning the sensor and use multimeter to check continuity of the cable.

Sand paper.

Get under your truck and actually look at your frame. I am giving you info. I can't do the work for you. Different models will have the grounds in different spots. Look around and you will find them.

My abs and break light comes on only when i drove 130 t0 140km and when i turn it off and on my engine light comes out why is that so?

I used a little angle grinder. You want metal to metal contact. Doesn't matter how you get it.