How are the sub frame connectors working out now that you've used them for a while? Maybe give us an update and a look, see at them in another video? Thank you.
What camera setup do you use and recommend? Im doing an LS swap and I'm documenting everything so i know how to put these back together and can see how I did it. Your videos are a real inspiration. Thank you
I use a Canon Mirrorless SLR Camera EOS M with a 22mm pancake lense. about $400 used and you get a decent camera setup. GoPros work as well, but won't have the image quality a real camera has. A used Samsung NX mini camera is also a ok choice for around $250
Have you had any luck with the springs or the RPV? I have the same calipers on the rear of my Monte and the knockback made the car undriveable even on the street until I lengthened that slug in the TrueTrac. It's still awful during an autocross.
turns out probably 1/2 the the pad knock-back was caused by my FRONT bearings and hubs. a DRP bearing spacer helped a ton + a 4psi valve + piston springs. I also added 4 of the bigger wilwood anti-knockback springs to the SS4 calipers. added a 2psi anti-drainback valve for the rear. then installed ticker c-clips from TCE performance. & had a thicker true-trak slug machined from titanium. that keeps any rear knockback at bay. it does slightly drag the brakes though, but a mild drawback to deal with. (more brake dust and noise at slower speeds)
I know you switched to manual brakes. Was the bore of the master matched to piston size for both the front and back calipers? I wonder if that could be part of the problem.
I talked to the HAWK brake pad tech guy, and he said my HP+ pads are not manual brake friendly, so that's probably part of the issue. won't know till I start racing again
How long did your brakes and calipers last before the over haul? Is this because your car is a dedicated race car? I thought bout doing something like this as opposed to cast iron calipers. Good info
I had a lot of pad knockback so a few caliper pistons got a bit mangled. if I had to guess, a BAER or Wilwood caliper driving around tow would last easily 10yrs.
Not related to this video, but when you did your LS swap, it looks like you stayed with the stock k member and A arms. Is that what you recommend for an LS1 swap? No clearance issues?
