BASS: Going Deep vs SOUNDING DEEP (Subwoofer "Depth of Presentation")

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This is probably the most important topic of my channel! It's why I like the subs I like, and why I'm not too excited about most other subs in general... Vv Click "SHOW MORE" vV
"The List", subwoofers that provide game changing bass: www.subwoofer101.com/best-subw...
Literally, this is the very reason I started my website, even if I didn't fully understand the concept at the time.
The world is full of shallow, peaky, and totally underwhelming subwoofers. Throw a rock and you'll hit one, they are in mass supply, and they are disappointing to listen to.
After trudging through forums for many months, which I value a lot despite some of the negativity, I got some basic ideas of which brands might scratch my itch. Many of those brands are still on "The List". But even some of those don't give me as much satisfaction as I'd like.
It's the "Depth of Presentation" that makes it or breaks it for me, and it's a very fine line. As far as I'm aware, there is no actual term for "Depth of Presentation", but it's the only thing that I can think of to describe the sound.
The weirdest part? You can have a giant tower sub, with 4 18" subwoofers, 20,000 watts of power, and yet a PB-1000 can still "SOUND" deeper. Not as loud, not as powerful, but the sound is relatively deeper for the given output. The "Presentation" is deeper. This is a measurable phenomenon.
There are a lot of people who give me a hard time about not having more brands on my list. "This one is $10,000!", "This one has a much higher Max SPL!", "This one has more wattage!". That's all great, but...
If the "Depth of Presentation" isn't deep enough, NONE OF THAT MATTERS TO ME!! It's a moot point!
Unless you are trying to win a contest, or don't really care about sound quality and you just want it stupidly loud, there is only so much gain you can run on a subwoofer before it sounds overwhelming. True for ANY subwoofer.
The subs I like the most are the subs that give me the most bass overall at that magic point, where any additional gain would be too much. It's truly a fine line.
I've had expectations obliterated, when I had a subwoofer that had all the right specs to trounce, embarrass, and otherwise dominate a half-the-power, half-the-price subwoofer.
The sub that had better specs in every way just couldn't provide the amount of depth I wanted in relation to the rest of the content. It's still a high quality sub, but the depth of presentation just wasn't strong enough for me, despite have a MUCH higher Max SPL.
So when you look at the list, that is an absolute requirement. No metric matters to me more than "Depth of Presentation", because without it, you just don't get that bottomless sound.
For tips on maximizing your home theater experience, "The Distance Hack" is a good one to look at:
**BASS HACK SERIES**: • Bite-sized Bass Hacks
If you have any ideas, thoughts, or suggestions, please post in the comments below!
**Current Systems setup below**
While I use affiliate links to support this channel and the website, my opinions are 100% my own.
Subwoofer 101 is the world's first SVS affiliate, so you can support this channel by following any link to SVS in this video description before ordering, and it doesn't have to be a link for the exact product. This applies to ALL of my valued affiliates, Emotiva, Amazon, etc...
Links are free and don't add any cost to you.
Here is the setup at the time of upload:
(RV)Amplifier Denon X6200W: amzn.to/2fbCbGx
House AVR: sub101.link/DenonX4500h
Emotiva A-5175: sub101.link/A-5175
Provided on a demo basis by SVS:
SoundBase: sub101.link/SoundBase
Towers (in house): sub101.link/UltraTower
Ultra Bookshelf (in RV): sub101.link/UltraBook
Pinnacle Towers (in RV): sub101.link/Pinnacle
Surrounds: sub101.link/Satellite
Atmos/DTS:X/Auro 3D height effect speakers: sub101.link/Elevation
Center: sub101.link/UltraCenter
Dual PB-4000's (In House): sub101.link/PB-4000
Dual PB-3000's (in RV): sub101.link/PB-3000
SVS Soundpath Subwoofer Isolation System: sub101.link/Isolation
Speaker wire:
sub101.link/SP1SpeakerCable
sub101.link/UltraSpeakerCable
Subwoofer cable: sub101.link/RCA
Sony UDP-X800 4K Player: amzn.to/2tRRieQ
U-Turn Orbit Pus Turntable: amzn.to/2uLrdvi
Measurement Mic for use with Room EQ Wizard:
amzn.to/2hb6Nsz
Room EQ Wizard (free, donations encouraged for the guy that created it-not me):
www.roomeqwizard.com/
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9 авг 2019

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Комментарии : 122

@fabianchavez8219 4 года назад

This is exactly the concept that I noticed listening to different equipment setups and have been researching/ trying to figure out for months. I even went to different forums asking if anyone knew what this was or how to do it and they tried to make me feel bad saying "40hz is always just going to sound like 40hz. Wrong. I know what I hear. Great video! You're ahead of the game for pointing this stuff out. Deeper sounding subs are far more satisfying than shallow subs, no matter how far down they can extend. My dilemma has been creating a driver/ enclosure combination for car audio that will sound deep like a home theater sub. Any idea what the science is behind it?

@denziiey 4 года назад

I appreciate your channel very much. I'm a new subscriber and an audiophile :D. if you had a podcast i'd definitely listen. i rarely watch videos like this without a demo but you have the personality that allows for an informative discussion rather than an eye candy and ear candy demo :)

@fzst-ub5xf 4 года назад

Very good video. Thats an important point and I'm glad that someone does explain this to people. That being said; I think you missed a very important thing here and that's max output capabilities of certain subs at certain frequencies. Under the premise of measureing deep (in my opinion thats a better word than "going deep") vs sounding deep, is mostly a sealed vs reflex subwoofer problem; The difference lies mostly in the dynamic output capabilities of the subs. Sure there's also a frequency response difference between sealed and open. A reflex sub will most likely have a pretty flat FR all the way down to its porttune without the gradual fall off of a sealed design. This usually means that a BR- sub gets some massive roomgain in a small to medium-sized room and therefore you get elevated deep bass. Whereas a sealed sub usually gets just the right amount of roomgain to get a pretty flat response all the way down. But in the modern area of audyssey and countless other very powerful EQ-options I dont think this matters all that much anymore. What does matter though is a subwoofers capability to pump out deep bass with authority and that's where the SB 2000s (the ones you used in your measurement example) fail when compared to BR-subs. Yes they are quite capable especially in a smaller room. But what has to be pointed out is that most frequency response measurements are done at low volumes which do not represent a subwoofers max output capabilities. That means that the subs dont have to work really much and can reach all the way down to 10hz in a measurement sweep. You'll have to reach at least 100db or so to get some bass you can feel. So if you really want a hometheater experience aka "earthquake" your LFE- channel has to be really loud! (thats primarely why i sold my 2 PC 2000s - I just simply almost never listen at those levels). And at this levels the SB 2000s will reach their limits and compression sets in under 30Hz whereas a good open design still can go full blast all the way down - and that's the reason why it "sounds" deeper - because at high levels it really goes deeper! You can test this with your UMIK-1. Just do a live RTA-measurement in RWE with a bass-heavy scene. Play the scene at low volume to see how deep it goes, then play it over with rising volumes until the deepest note isn't played at a higher volume anymore - thats where the compression sat in and therefore you reached the limit of your subs. Its important though that you use a live RTA-measurement and not just a sweep. When testing i found out that a measurement sweep is way easier to produce for a sub than a dynamic scene where the sub is asked to produce higher notes accompanying the really low notes. Thats another reason why i think FR-Graphs are not saying all that much about a subs real-life-performance. In a measurement sweep my sub could reproduce the lowest note it's capable of in my room, 17hz, at a way higher volume than it could reproduce 22hz a dynamic scene (from inception), where compression set in way earlier. Sure many (including me) think that BR- subs have a different sound than sealed subs, even at the same volume but thats more like a fuller, rounder sound not really deeper. So if you have really powerful sealed subs which can reach to 10hz flat, without any compression at higher listening levels, they still can sound really deep like a ported sub but they have to be really powerful aka big to achieve that.

@arongatt 4 года назад

Have you tried the mini-dsp, works amazing with bass I heard and it can integrate different subs together like ported sealed, different sizes and so on.

@Darklighter43 3 года назад

I am running my home theater in 7.1 and I have Klipsch RF-82 towers, rp-450c center, r15m back surrounds, infinity rs-1 side surrounds and Klipsch sw-115 subwoofer. Can you give me any tips on how to make my system sound "fuller"? Oh, and I'm using a Onkyo TX-NR676 receiver. The only room correction I can do is included microphone for room calibration which sucks. Any help would be really appreciated thank you. Almost forgot, front speakers and center are set to 70hz and the rest to 80hz. Lpf of lfe is set to 80hz and low pass on back of sub is set to 150hz. I did use a calibration mic to say everything up then had to tweak it after and it just seems like I'm missing something.

@lesterd6480 4 года назад

Thanks for this video that was my question when I heard that sealed subs go deeper than ported but most go with ported for movies. It just wasn’t making sense thanks for clearing that up😀

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Yeah, I've tried to find a technical term for it, but I couldn't find anything that describes the depth in this particular way. Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the feedback!

@vivekayush 4 года назад

Dear Sir, my configuration is: B&W M1 (5 satellites) + Polk Audio RC80i (2 ceiling speakers) + B&W ASW610 (1 Sealed SubWoofer having 10" Driver @ 200 Watts) running on Denon AVR-X2600H. My room-size is 11'x13'. My problem is, either the SubWoofer output is very boomy or it is very soft (gunshots or actions scenes are so soft that these become non-existent). Can you advice me the correct settings to get better output from the SubWoofer (I am really happy from rest of the setup)? Regards.

@fahad.malick 4 года назад

Hey @Subwoofer101, thanks for making awesome informative videos. I've become a huge fan of SVS subwoofers ever since i've know about the company. I was wondering what would you recommend for somebody who's big into Hard Rock/Heavy Metal music, a ported or a sealed sub? I recently ordered SB-3000 mainly because i want the tight, accurate bass for for the kind of music i listen to. I'm not sure how a bigger sub like SB-16 Ultra would play/sound with fast double bass drumming which is usually the norm in such music

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I buck the trend in that I prefer ported subs for music. That's not normal, but I prefer the stronger audible bottom end from the ported SVS subs. When running duals, the tightness issue largely goes away. A single ported sub does not sound as tight as duals. Weird thing, but I notice it. I listen to Slipknot, Metallica, Rage, Korn, Zombie, etc... No problems with double bass or "keeping up" with the ported. It's really a dual sub issue rather than enclosure type, although sealed seem to suffer less from the tightness issue as a single.

@fahad.malick 4 года назад

Subwoofer 101 Interesting! On that note I might as well go for a dual sealed in the long run. I totally listen to all the bands you mentioned and more. Saw Slipknot live a couple of month ago, they never disappoint 🤘

@chrisg2550 4 года назад

Interested in your thoughts. I am looking at dual subs under $1000 total. Like the SVS PB-1000's but they are at the very high top of my budget. Currently looking at the RSL Speedwoofer 10s vs Monoprice Monolith 10 vs Polk HTS 12 ( on sale on Amazon for $299 each at the moment). I have a 7.1.2 (7.2.2 after dual subs, then eventually I will get another amp and 2 more Prime Elevation speakers making it a 7.2.4) system with a Marantz 6012 receiver, Elac Uni-Fi speakers with SVS Prime Elevation speakers for the Atmos and an old Boston Acoustics subwoofer (very inadequate) that is left over from my old system. Any thoughts would be appreciated. System is geared mostly to home theater with some music listening. Also, I would also love to see you do a series on some less expensive subs on your channel. Love your videos. Keep up the good work!

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

The reason the subs are on the list is because they have a deep presentation. Of all the subs you listed, I would stick with the PB-1000 or the Monolith 10. I can't confirm that the Monolith will have the kind of depth I look for, but the others surely don't. If you go with the PB-1000's, you can trade up within a year, if you go factory direct. I can tell you that the SVS or Monolith will be worth the extra coin. The reason I don't cover cheaper subs is the lack of depth. I wish there were $300 subs I could recommend, but there aren't any that do what I want in a subwoofer. $500 seems to be the threshold.

@chrisg2550 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 ok, so I have decided to go with the SVS after a lot of research. But now I am torn...do I go dual pb1000s or dual sb2000s? My current viewing room is about 2800 sq ft. I am currently house shopping but expect my future area to be from the same 2800 to up to 3500 sq ft. I know you like the ported subs better and the pb2000s might be a little larger than the little lady will allow lol. That why I'm looking at pb1000s and sb2000s. Which do you think will pressurize this size room better? Thanks again for any input.

@isak6626 4 года назад

Have you tried integrating / EQing multi sub using a miniDSP? I'd love a video on that, and I'm curious what settings to do where (AVR vs. miniDSP) and how think around Audyssey when having a miniDSP in the loop (e.g. which do I run first if I still want to use Audyssey dynamic EQ etc?).

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I've done it, and to actually do it right it involves a lot of steps, and it's easy to get it wrong. The SVS subwoofer app is child's play by comparison, so much easier and faster. I have been meaning to do a video on the MiniDSP 2x4, but it's going to be a big shoot. Long video.

@isak6626 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 you can do it! There is no such video out there.

@roysurat3519 4 года назад

You have discussed before about 3000 series and mentioned about the sb3000 that it sounds like a ported sub. which one do you think sounds deeper? the sb3000 or the pb1000?

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

The SB-3000 has the advantage of being able to shape the response, so it could be brought to the same level of depth of the PB-1000's, if it isn't already. I haven't measured it in room, so my observations can't be taken as fact. Definitely a stronger depth of presentation over the SB-2000's, as far as I could tell. More satisfying at the very least. The PB-1000 might still sound deeper, but you can change that.

@gibluap 4 года назад

Do you own those pb 16 ultras?

@gabemartinez1012 4 года назад

Question, I have dual subs i use REW and was able to fix some of the issues it show. I play the movie john wick 1. it sounded much better. sound deep and tight bass. But when i play music im not getting that. the music sound much better before using REW and adjusting things. any subjections?

@MJamesIII 3 года назад

You need two presets in your AVProcessor. One for music and one for movies.

@professionalyoutubecomment7272 3 года назад

What about those subsonic effects that you can't hear but can feel? Do you get it more on the ported or sealed sub?

@MJamesIII 3 года назад

My sealed subs pressurizes my small room at low levels that sometimes hurt my ears and makes my head feel like it’s going to explode....

@addies_daddy2913 Год назад

Thank you for this video. Your videos are really helpful.

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

Glad to hear it, thank you!

@GucciGamerTV 4 года назад

I've been really considering quite a few of the subwoofers on your list. I have been considering the Klipsch R-115SW and I noticed it wasn't on your list even though it goes down 18hz. I was just wondering if you can give me a quick response on why this doesn't make this list. Have you just not had experience with it or is there something about it that falls short?

@pastaman6099 Год назад

Performance-wise, it's nearly identical to the PB-2000 original, just a slightly flatter response, like within 1-2 dB as per CEA 2010 results. Great sub, nothing falling short about it.

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

Generally speaking, I look for DSP controlled subwoofers. The natural response of a subwoofer is to get quieter as it goes deeper. DSP can make the response a little more uniform, and can also account for the shallow nature. Granted, not every subwoofer with Digital Signal Processing is going to be what I'm looking for, but any subwoofer that I do like will almost certainly have a DSP.

@pastaman6099 Год назад

@@Subwoofer101 I tend to avoid DSP-controlled subs because they get expensive really fast, and any non-DSP sub with a miniDSP will easily blow away the DSP-built-in sub for much less.

@1982field 4 года назад

You are the only person that is made of video that is clear an accurate the same way I like my speakers thank you for not giving us a bunch of BS and Goofy introductions straight to the point with information with useful thanks again sir

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I really appreciate it, thank you for watching!

@garyausten5939 9 месяцев назад

I'd heard various videos where people say they level-matched" their speakers at 75 dB so I tried it with test tones in my Denon AVR. I guess it worked out OK with my bed layer, but when I tried that for the subs (co-located and stacked 10" and 12" subs of different brands and powers) and when I put music back on, it was almost like the windows were going to break, it way overpowered the mains and sounded terrible. I turned them way down through the receiver's control. Should subwoofers almost be invisible as far as sound is concerned? I mean all the bass should seem like it's coming from the main speakers? Also is there a phone app that will measure Hertz? I use one for dB right now.

@Subwoofer101 9 месяцев назад

The frustrating thing is that there is no way to get precise with a meter like that, at least not that I am happy with. People have pressed me for it in the past, and any number I would have given would be pretty much a bad guess. You have the right idea though, subs, nor any speaker in particular, should draw attention to itself. See my video on adjusting subwoofers by ear. Also, it's best not to mix and match subwoofers. The bigger the difference between subs, the more it takes away from the positive multiple subwoofer effects. Dual matched deep bass subwoofers produce the sound that everyone is looking for, whether they realize it or not. See my "best subwoofer list" in the video description. Quality subs are not common, and not cheap, but the difference is undeniable and noticeable even with uninterested people who don't care about audio. Also a good idea to check out my Bass Hack Video Series. Good tips that are not "by the book", but definitely improve the sound.

@garyausten5939 9 месяцев назад

@@Subwoofer101 My original sub (60W Polk) came with a 5.1 system I bought several years ago and always thought about getting a bigger one. I still use the satellites as surrounds and upgraded the center to a Klipsch RP504Cii. Now I also have a 12" Klipsch (300W) but when I bought speaker stands for my Klipsch RP-600Mii L/R speakers, I had to stack the subs as I was using one as a speaker stand and didn't have room to relocate it farther to the same side. I did notice (or maybe it was my imagination) that stacking the subs I got a deeper output, which is neat with stuff like F-18 afterburners. My "home theater" is also my ~13x16 bedroom.

@bzrdbrew 4 года назад

Just picked up an SVS PB12-NSD replacing a Klipsch 10", and wondered why the deep bass was there but the "musical" bass wasn't... turn up the gain! Thank you 🙂

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Yep, you can run a LOT more bass with a deep sub like that. So much more satisfying! Thanks for watching!

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

The Outlet sale is happening now, check out my most recent video. The PB-16 Ultras are almost gone, but the PB-4000's are still there, a couple PB-2000's left at the moment, and a few PB-3000's. PB-1000's sold out completely already. sub101.link/LaborDay2019 1/3 of inventory gone in the first 6 hours! They had a couple PB12-NSD, but they sold out quick! Going dual is the way to go, even more impressive than what you are hearing now!

@TaylorMadeTheater 4 года назад

Well said as always. We want depth at volume!

@jthomas. 4 года назад

"Low frequency tones seem lower pitched when played very loudly" -Bass 305-Science of Sound. Actually, it's some old instructional voice line they sampled for that song, but I think it definitely relates to what you're illustrating here. Your "Depth of Presentation" and "sounding deep" is certainly enhanced on "the list" subs because they are able to reproduce the lowest of the low frequencies at greater levels than lesser subs, which in turn 'tricks' your ears/brain into perceiving an even lower, thus fuller and higher quality bass overall. Which is more or less what it seems like you are describing here, along with the response curves desirably rising toward the low end, which probably adds to this same tone perception phenomena.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Great summation! I noticed this when hearing a quality sub that was truly flat on the in room response graph. Despite clearly NOT getting quieter as it went deeper according to the graph, it still sounded that way. That sub had better specs in every way, but it just didn't sound as impressive. Thanks for the feedback!

@jonblaze431 4 года назад

What will u prefer I go for,two Hsu vtf-3 mk5 or one svs pb 16 ultra,hope u see this & give me your honest input,thanks

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I have the old VTF-15, the first version, MK-1. It was my first "real" sub, before I ever started the channel. Great sub in the extended mode, but I personally prefer a stronger low end in general. HSU has a very similar depth of presentation as SVS, but SVS has a slightly deeper sound overall. Not super dramatic, like it would be against a typical sub, but I notice it. HSU subs are on the list because they are worth considering, but the shipping policy is kind of tough. The amp warranty is also shorter, but you can pay for a longer warranty. Good product for sure, I don't mean to imply otherwise. Honestly though, knowing what I know, I would go with dual PB-3000's. The impact is insane, but it's still very well composed. The split wind voice coil really is magical, it sounds more like a 1,200 watt sub. Hard to explain without experiencing it first hand. You can also tailor the response using the app to match almost any subwoofer out there. For sure, dual PB-3000's would be my choice over a single PB-16 Ultra, and cost no object, the PB-16 Ultra is my favorite sub ever. Duals are just super important. You would have a year to upgrade to dual PB-16 Ultras within a year, so long as you go factory direct. My affiliate links are factory direct, if you are inclined to support the channel. If a single PB-16 Ultra is on your radar, dual PB-3000's would be a super easy choice for me, having heard them as much as I have. I prefer dual PB-2000's over a **single** PB-16 Ultra, that's how important duals are. I would go dual regardless. Dual PB-16 Ultras hit like a brick wall, and still deliver gentle bass from smooth jazz. Dual PB-3000's hit like the PB-4000's. Way stronger than you would expect given the size and specs. Truly outstanding. Let me know if that helps!

@jonblaze431 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 Thanks so much for the advice,I have been looking at the pb300s & notice they have very good reviews in terms of its output despite the size,my choice was the pb16s due to its overwhelming excellent review but couldn't afford duals with the price hence contemplating the dual Hsu but hearing from you who has seen these subs in action I will consider going with the dual svs pb3000s,svs subs kick ass so i know i won't be disappointed,thanks so much for taking the time to respond,means a lot

@Ctripp2448 4 года назад

Subwoofer 101 you are comparing the old model hsu. The new hsu subs have upgraded driver and amp. Looking at 5-6 dB more output. I do agree with you on their shipping and amp warranty. They should step up on both of those policies. But again you can get way more performance and the deep bass presence you are talking about for the money than svs. It has been proven already on the forums and data bass. You should really get some big boy psa audio, funk audio, rythmik and jtr audio subs in for review. It is a whole different level of bass than the svs 3000, 4000 and pb 16.

@ciprycipro Год назад

Hi, can you please help me with some settings? I set my Onkyo receiver (LPF for LFE at 120hz) and behind the SVS PB-1000 subwoofer the crossover at 100hz, if I set it to maximum LFE on the subwoofer with some songs the bass is not tight but sometimes it seems to roar. Do you think the settings are right? Many thanks in advance!

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

Assuming I'm understanding what you're saying, I think you might have inadvertently caused a hole in the response. 1. While there is nothing "technically wrong" with setting your LFE on the Onkyo at 120 hertz, I typically open it up to 200+ hertz. I don't want that setting to have any effect. 2. Disable the filter on the SVS sub, to the maximum value, essentially disabling it. Not sure how high it goes from memory, but again, well over 200 hertz. At 100 hertz, anything between 100 and 120 might be filtered out. Again, I don't want it playing any role. 3. Set all speakers to "Small" even if they are huge. Small=Bass managed. 4. Set each speaker to at least 90 hertz, and depending on how small the speakers are, as high as 150 hertz. That's where personal flavor comes in. If you prefer 120 hertz, go with it. 110, 150, 80, it's not wrong, it's preference. I would keep the speakers above 80 hertz at a minimum. It's less of a cutoff for the speakers, but definitely a hard cutoff for the subs. Play familiar music and adjust to taste. For more details, see my crossover hack, distance hack, adjusting subs by ear, and my top 16 AVR settings. Hopefully that helps! And if you only have one PB-1000, I would get another identical one, massive difference. I wouldn't mix an original with a pro version. Cheers!

@ciprycipro Год назад

@@Subwoofer101 Excuse my English, I'm Romanian. As for my system, it's a pretty old Onkyo TX-NR 809 but it still does its job brilliantly paired with JBL ES 90 (36hz - 40khz) but which are just as old🤣🤣. I set the front speakers to 100hz, (they sound just as well at 90hz) center ES25C at 100hz and surround ES20 at 120hz, and I set the settings behind the subwoofer to 100hz crossover, phase 0. I watched several of your videos including "my top 16 AVR settings" to be able to do these settings. I noticed that if I set the front speakers to LARGE and also set the DOUBLE BASS function, the receiver gets quite warm. Thank you very much for your help and for the things you shared with me. 101 Subwoofer you are the best😀😀😀👍👍👍

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

Your English is excellent, no worries there!! The only thing I would change is increasing the crossover on the back of the subwoofer to the maximum value, effectively disabling it. Let your AVR do all of the filtering, to avoid a response dip between 100 hertz and 120 hertz. The only time I would use the crossover on the subwoofer is if I had no way to adjust crossover through other means. Otherwise, it sounds like you have a good handle on it!

@saikatbose8370 4 года назад

I see you too use the turntable with the av receiver and subwoofers at your disposal. Something which is somehow very rare

@MattiasSjosten 4 года назад

A few weeks ago i decided to turn in my dual pb1000s for a single sb3000 because i found the pb1000s left me unsatisfied, not only for music but for movies aswell, nomatter how i tried the pb1000s just didn't give me the punch i wanted. I wanted a sub which would give me a good balance for music and movies. And i couldn't be happier. As expected it's great for music, but to my rejoice it brings things in movies my pb1000s never did. It hits harder and faster. What surprised me most is that it seems to do a better job pressurizing the room somehow. It was also alot easier to integrate with my ultra bookshelfs. Sure it's possible with the help of rew i could probably improve how the pb1000s performed, but i currently don't have a Umik-1 :D nevertheless to my ears i prefer the sb3000, it gives me everything i want :D should probably mention that my room isn't huge by the way. Trust your ears :)

@jeffgrayson7639 2 года назад

Looking at your setup why do you have 2 pairs of towers up front????

@pepeanguita8376 4 года назад

Thanks for the video, very informative !!. I am on the market for a sub, home use, for my budget I could get two SVS SB-2000 or one SVS PB-3000 ... what would "sound deeper" in your own terms ? I love the deep emphasis that you talked in some other video. I have also the possibility to add the response curve I could need, by convoluting the desire filter response within my music player. Thanks and greetings

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

The dual PB-2000's would be the way to go. Both the PB-2000 and PB-3000 have that deep sound, but duals will give you the best overall sound. A single PB-3000 will not sound as good as dual PB-2000's. The SB-2000's "go" deeper, but don't "sound" as deep. The ported SVS subs have the deepest sound. Dual PB-3000's are outstanding, and you can trade up within a year from dual PB-2000's, so long as you go factory direct. If you are inclined to support the channel, you can follow my links in the description, and they are factory direct. If you aren't in the USA, there probably isn't a trade up option, sad to say. Thanks for watching!

@pepeanguita8376 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my comments, I truly appreciate it. My question was really about 2 x SB-2000 (read sealed, you were referring to the ported version PB-2000) versus 1 x PB3000 , would you still go with two subs even if they are sealed ? Unfortunately I am not in the so USA, so as much I would love to support your channel via affiliate links, I really cannot do it. It is a pity

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

No worries at all! Check out my article on sealed vs ported: www.subwoofer101.com/ported-vs-sealed/ Choosing between a single ported and dual sealed is kind of an odd decision. Pretty different sounds. Ported tend to have a deeper presentation. I would still go dual with sealed, yes. If I were to go sealed, I would start at the SB-3000. The SB-2000's are definitely good, but I was far more impressed by the SB-3000's. A deeper presentation. Take a look at the article, and see which style of bass you would want. I definitely lean towards ported, but it's all about what you want.

@pepeanguita8376 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 Fair enough. My proposal is based purely on budget, that is why it might sound odd. Anyways, I take you would choose 2 subs on one range than just one in the following range, having for it roughly the same budget. For my particular case, it is not an option having 2 x SB-3000 sealed, so it would 1 sub (sealed or ported) of the 3000 series, versus 2 of the 2000 series (sealed or ported). That could be how I see my options. I checked your article sealed vs ported, very nice and informative again. Thank you. I am wondering if could manage to get a response curve on sealed very similar to ported just by equalizing the frequency response on the lows. Thank you again for the courtesy and time to help me out.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

You can shape the response curve of the SB-2000's using a Mini DSP, measurement microphone, and Room EQ Wizard, but fair warning, it will take quite a while to get it right. Lots of pitfalls, it can definitely be a headache. I wouldn't necessarily caution against it, just being straight about the process. I'm always happy to help my viewers any time I can. Let me know what you decide and how it works out!

@acelakid94 4 года назад

I bought a SB-2000 about a year ago. At first I wasn’t really impressed (even though I was coming from a Logitech Z-5500). When I actually dialed it in it sounded amazing, music sounded so clean with good thump. It made my speakers sound like they went down to 20hz or so. Almost like there was no sub in the room just big towers instead of bookshelf speakers. When it came to movies I was disappointed all over once more. Again, the SB-2000 sounds very accurate and blended perfectly with my speakers, but during loud action scenes in movies it didn’t have enough presence and definitely not go deep enough. It sounded like it was missing that last lower octave. The way people talk about the PB-16 Ultra with its presence made me really want one or two to replace the SB-2000, but I can’t afford them. The PB-4000 though looks like a smaller version of it and cost almost 1k less in some places. Think I’ll get 2 PB-4000s. Hopefully there are some deals this holiday season.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

@Loco_2002 4 года назад

I am curious on what your take is concerning different sound signatures on specific subs? When it comes to numbers and graphs, Ill be honest its 2nd degree until I listen to it. Do some subs just sound better or handles lows or mids better? My assumption is a good sub should just be GOOD. Kinda like how I feel speakers should excel at both music and movies. Not one or the other. But I know some will disagree. Love the videos by the way. Probably one of the best advanced yet user-friendly audiophiles out there.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Thanks, I appreciate that, it's what I've been shooting for! Totally agree, musical vs Movie subs makes no sense to me, should be good at both. Sound signature is basically my point of the video. The depth of presentation is a signature for sure. I can rule out a ported sub by looking at a graph, but even if the graph looks good, I still need to hear it before getting excited about it. BTW, the Outlet sale is happening now, check out my most recent video. The PB-16 Ultras are almost gone, but the PB-4000's are still there, a couple PB-2000's left at the moment, and a few PB-3000's. PB-1000's sold out completely already. sub101.link/LaborDay2019 1/3 of inventory gone in the first 6 hours!

@wb5mgr 3 года назад

You’ll know when you hit that real deep bass when you have to change your👖 🤣

@Sch3ll3 4 года назад

I am thinking of buying elac 3030 sub. Does anyone has experience with it? Would you recommend it so I can complement B6.2 bookshelf speakers.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Looks like it has a factory rating of 25 hertz, and typically, with most ported subwoofers, they start to get quieter when it goes deeper, and probably starts getting quieter around 30-40 hertz. Very common. Even if it was powerful to 25 hertz, it still doesn't cover the whole audible bass spectrum. Check out "The List", the bass with those subs is undeniably stronger in the low end. Link is in the video description.

@Sch3ll3 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 Thank you.

@fabianchavez8219 11 месяцев назад

I still can't find an explanation on what produces low depth of presentation for DIY subs anywhere. This is actually the only piece of content I've found that describes the topic, after lots and lots of searching. I think most bass enthusiasts simply aren't aware of the distinction. Challenging when you want to replicate the effect for a DIY build that allows more design flexibility. I commend you for pointing this out ! Any luck pinpointing what exactly causes lower depth of presentation rather than it just being a ported vs sealed enclosure? My experiments have only yielded shallow results :(

@Subwoofer101 11 месяцев назад

I appreciate that. I agree, it's not well understood. It particularly frustrates me, because people will compare loud subwoofers to deep bass subwoofers, look at the specs, and assume the louder subwoofer is better. Usually it's the opposite. I have to admit, I have a hard time giving good advice for DIY. I've built my own speaker boxes before, mostly for my vehicles, long before starting this channel. But when it comes to home theater bass, trying to replicate what the best deep bass subwoofer companies make is definitely an uphill battle. You have to have a big enough box, super inert, very thick MDF, things have to be sealed with heavy duty glues, bracing, you have to use the right port tubes and lengths. Driver is important, as well as the amplifier, it's too easy to get something that won't handle the deep stuff, yet it'll play plenty "loud". Assuming you have all of the box volumes correct, proper porting, and all of the other science that goes into it, then you will need a DSP. I own a Mini DSP 2x4. It's a powerful tool. I've used it a few times, and now it's sitting in a box. Why? It's a headache. It took me about 20 hours or so to figure it out and get it all done correctly. You have to account for the delay that it causes, and you have to use room correction in a particular order, and then change the response with the DSP post room correction. Which means if you need to run room correction again, you have to undo what you did in the DSP. Then you need to start all over, taking measurements and applying EQ. There are a lot of pitfalls. Mistakes that are easy to make, and can frustrate the most patient among us. Loads of caveats, but definitely not impossible. I could make a video about how to use the Mini DSP 2x4, but because of my head injury and my limited energy, it doesn't make sense. Most certainly, I would get a lot of questions about different aspects of it, and I would just never be able to respond frequently enough. There are a few hour + long videos about it, and some of them are good, some of them might make a few mistakes or omissions. Having gone through all of that, something like the SVS app, where you can adjust in real time, without having to deal with delay issues, is 50 times easier. As good as SVS is, I still like to add my own flavor. The PEQs allow me to do that. But back before they had the app, I had the option to use the Mini DSP 2x4, and I did, with great success too. But honestly, with as many subs as I listen to, it was just easier not to use it. The juice wasn't worth the squeeze, as they say. So for me, with the time spent, the materials, the mental capital, it's not worth it for me to go DIY. I welded up a front bumper kit on my Toyota Sequoia. 42 pieces. Definitely would have been less expensive to buy one already assembled, or pay to have someone do the welding for me. Sorry for the long response, but I didn't want to give you an incomplete answer. Assuming you have everything you need to get deep bass in the first place, from there you will need a DSP. How much time it will take you? I just don't know. But if a subwoofer does not have a DSP, it's probably not going to sound deep enough for my expectations. That's just the nature of most subwoofers. They get quieter as they go deeper, unless DSP is applied. Hopefully that helps. Sorry for the eye strain! 😅

@fabianchavez8219 11 месяцев назад

@@Subwoofer101 Wow I never saw this long and detailed response. I appreciate that. Well, something I've noticed while playing with different ported subs is when you tap on the driver, you'll get the ultra deep tone out of the port from some subs and a shallow tone from others. So even just manually excurding the driver yourself will reveal whether the sub is deep or shallow. Also, I've noticed that deep subs color the sound by having that deep undertone across the entire frequency spectrum rather than just the low notes. Even at say 60 or 80hz, my deep sub sounds deeper than my shallow sub. So it gives me the impression that it's actually the enclosure/port more than anything that's causing that sort of "filtering" effect. I'm just not sure how modeling points this quality out yet, if at all. But I'm determined to figure it out. Deeper down the rabbit hole of bass I go :)

@mechtheist 4 года назад

Beautiful doggie. I had a couple of Half Anatolian Shepherds/ half Great Pyrenees that looked quite similar, fantastic dogs. There's something not quite right when you discuss how your hearing goes down to 17Hz. A lot of the experience of deep bass isn't heard, it's felt. You need a really good and powerful sub to recreate that. I thought I had reached real and deep bass when I had Definitive Technologies BP3000 for fronts and their BP 2000 for rear surrounds--the 3000s each had a 15in subwoofer with 1000W amp and the 2000's had 12in 500 W subs. Then my house burned and they didn't make the 3000 anymore so I got 4 8080s that have a 455 W amp with a 12in active driver and 2x 12 1/2 in passive radiators. I managed to convince the insurance company that this wasn't equivalent, that I needed a subwoofer before near parity could be expected, so I went with a PB13Ultra. And that's when I knew what it meant to have real, and loud, and truly DEEP bass at home. I went to a lot of concerts and most were [too] loud, you could often feel your clothes vibrating against your skin, but it wasn't until I was at a show where the sound wasn't particularly loud, but the bass, you could feel it in your guts! It's the difference between having a lot of bass and having a lot of deep bass. And, it's as much with what you feel as with what you hear. I've added a PB16Ultra, and my sound system scares me at times. An explosion or gun shot is something with real impact, like you can feel the shock wave hitting your face! Is that what you're saying here? It seems like a sub that has superior maxSPL, AND was reasonably flat, would sound better--have more Depth of Presentation, than one with less maxSPL, again, assuming reasonable flatness. I think you need to look at the CEA2010 and similar tests, definitely not maxSPL at some one frequency, you have to look at the full range, from well below hearing threshold to past 100Hz. I've been a bass nut for a long time but only a few weeks ago stumbled across the data-bass.com folks. Have you seen this site? It's great for comparing various subs with interactive graphs allowing for direct comparisons. [I've gotten bass-nuttier, will soon have a JTR Captivator 4000ULF. It can output 10Hz at over 105dB and pretty flat well past 100Hz, so I think it should possess plenty of Depth of Presentation. It's about a week or two away and I'm getting antsy]

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

It's funny you mention this at this particular time. I have the Monolith 15's in, and they are by all rights a great sub. Proper depth of presentation, everything. However, they can be relatively louder in the infrasonic range (below hearing limits) and it's actually a little uncomfortable. I used to think that going louder as you go deeper was an absolute, but I think it's important to taper off a little in the infrasonic range, at least for some people. I have Post Concussion Syndrome from a brain injury 18 years ago, so my hearing is a little more sensitive, but my wife noticed the difference as well. She actually mentioned the difference first. So for me, the depth of presentation is most important in the audible range. The difference in depth of presentation between the PB-4000 and Monolith 15 is audibly indistinguishable, which is awesome. The only difference I can tell is discomfort from what I can only assume is the greater relative infrasonic bass. Same sound in almost every way, one is just more comfortable. That said, some people might absolutely LOVE infrasonic bass. There is a fan type device solely for the purpose of infrasonic bass. VERY expensive. If one were to have a infrasonic bass sensitivity, that could be a truly epic bad purchase. Hard to actually knowingly hear it beforehand. You need to be able to measure it just to verify that's what you are hearing. I preferred the Standard Mode on both the PB-16 Ultra and the PB-4000. Extended mode wasn't as fun for me, and this might be why. More infrasonic bass in extended mode. The PB-16 Ultra is just outstanding in the ability to scare you, amazing explosiveness. I love Anatolian shepherds, beautiful dogs! For a while people really questioned Angel's pedigree, and Anatolian was a common mention. I contacted her breeder, and she is 100% Tibetan Mastiff, her parents and sister are undeniably Tibetan, but because she is the Nomadic type, and a female, she doesn't have the "giant Chow" appearance. I'm just bummed they fixed her because of her "flawed" coat. Best dog I've ever had. She'll be 12 in January.

@mechtheist 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 It's unfortunate you have that sensitivity, I love the infrasonics, for me it can really add to the experience. PartsExpress sells devices it calls exciters that literally shake whatever you attach them to, some are full range and I've seen a youtube video where this guy got amazingly decent sound with them attached to rectangles of stiff Styrofoam-type stuff, but some of them are just for the deepest bass. I've seen some that are explicitly designed to attach to theater-type seats. It would be like that movie Earthquake with it's "Sensaround" tech [god, that dates me, that was a long time ago] When you get into the big powerful subs like the PB13Ultra and 16Ultra, you don't really need such augmentation. My dogs had this incredible undercoat that allowed them to go wallow in the mud and half an hour later, they were clean, didn't need bathing. Almost as good as a cat in that regard. "Flawed coat", bullshit, most breeding standards are largely just arbitrary choices based on someones preferences at some time, some are even highly detrimental to the animal's health.

@Estorilroc 4 года назад

If all I can afford is one SB3000 or two SB2000, what should I go with?

@KashKhatana 4 года назад

Buy SB3000 now and start saving for another !

@raulgutierrez1501 4 года назад

Aways go duals never look back! Waited too long for the second sub it was a killer!

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Going dual really is the best way to go. The SB-3000 is good at acting like a ported sub. Here's my thoughts on ported vs sealed: www.subwoofer101.com/ported-vs-sealed/

@midevil1980 4 года назад

Duals everytime... 😉👍

@gamingingalaxy4011 2 года назад

Would you recommend dual pb3000 over single pb16?

@Subwoofer101 2 года назад

Yes, all day long. PB-16 Ultra is phenomenal, but you will get the best experience with matching dual subs. I run dual subs in the RV, where space is precious. Wouldn't have gone to that extreme if it didn't matter. I selected the RV specifically to be able to fit dual subs. Oddly, in my opinion, duals are even more important in smaller rooms.

@gamingingalaxy4011 2 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 thank you for quick response! Also another thing holding me from pb16 is the weight. Currently i have single pb3000 making dual with klipsch spl150 and results are not bad but im pretty sure another pb3000 would be waaay better.

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

If there's any concern about going with the PB-16 Ultras, whether it's weight or size, price, etc... The PB-3000's in a dual configuration is about the closest you can come to the PB-16 Ultra explosiveness. Grab another PB-3000, delete the other sub, and follow my Bass Hack Video series to optimize them, and you'll probably be extremely happy. The PB-3000's are a wonderful sweet spot. Very explosive, reasonably sized, reasonably priced, doesn't weigh enough to necessitate a crane. Moving around the PB-16 Ultras was not kind to my back. It's like they fill those things with concrete. 😅

@user-ng8zf6wy7q 3 года назад

Omg SO confusing 😵 Is there a decent home speaker system thats around $50 with bomb bass? Would like to play music from my phone to my 50" smart tv. I just returned a system that was 50w. Bass wasnt nearly enough.

@Quetzalcoatl0 4 года назад

I'm going to build a full marty with a dayton ultimax 18. I hope i can make is sound like the pb-1000 i have. This pb-1000 i don't know what svs did to it but man. I don't think anything can beat it ( in the size and price range)

@Ctripp2448 4 года назад

Quetzalcoalt that ultimax will outperform that svs pb1000 very easily. But I agree the pb1000 is a great sub at the price point

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

You'll have to do a lot of DSP work to get a similar depth of presentation. The standard response will be to get quieter as it goes deeper, that's just the nature of subwoofers in general. It will likely go louder, but that's not what I see as the most important metric. That was my point about Max SPL not being a good metric to go by. Check out my Gain Hack, Distance Hack, and then Adjusting Subs by Ear Hack in my Bass Hack video series. You will get more from the PB-1000 that way if you haven't already done those. Gain should be at 3 o'clock on the PB-1000, per the Gain Hack. Of course, adding another PB-1000 would be the best way to get the most out of it.

@fabianchavez8219 4 года назад

Are you going to make a video or post the results somewhere? I need to know if that's going to work lol. I want to build something to sound deep like SVS but it doesn't seem easy and trial and error with this stuff isn't cheap or fast.

@Quetzalcoatl0 4 года назад

@@fabianchavez8219 I'm in the process of saving money, and it doesn't work so well =/. I will also buy the mini DSP 2x4 HD and the umik in 1 order to save on shipping cost. I'm from EU so Dayton subs are rarely in stock. I will definitely make a thread in AVS forum. I won't post pictures of the build thou. Just the idea and the finish product. Will definitely make a few videos of the sub. When it's done. If i don't forget i will ping you in this comment when this happens. Not earlier than February

@Quetzalcoatl0 3 года назад

@@fabianchavez8219 Hey, i've build them, have some demo videos and in the description you can find the link to the build thread :)

@garavonhoiwkenzoiber 4 года назад

I know a lot of people that use REW use a house curve that's a 10db downward slope from 10 to 200hz, then flat until 6k, then a another 10db downward slope again until 10 or 20k. humans are bad at hearing low notes while really good at hearing high notes

@dtibor5903 3 года назад

Depends on the sound level.

@garavonhoiwkenzoiber 3 года назад

@@dtibor5903 true, our ear's response curve changes with volume. I think Denon has a setting to constantly adjust the curve as we turn the volume up. Dynamic EQ I think?

@midevil1980 4 года назад

Laziest attempt at a roll over ever! 🤣😉👍

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I love it when people watch to the end! She is a brat for sure...

@wa2368 3 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 Those gigantic subs are such an eyesore man.

@pastaman6099 Год назад

I like the blue line the best. I've tried the "depth of presentation" and I find that the green can be just as muddy sounding as the red if some people's ears like mine don't have much threshold differences.

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

What kind of sub have you heard with the green line response? For sure, a good looking graph does not equate to good sound. But there's no way I could classify the sub that produced the green line as muddy. If I took a regular, run of the mill subwoofer, and coaxed that response out of it, I probably wouldn't like it either. Producing strong relative depth is one thing, making that depth sound really good and well composed is quite another.

@pastaman6099 Год назад

@@Subwoofer101 Not 1 sub, but 4 subs tend to naturally construct far stronger in the lower region while the upper region is just fixing dips and peaks. It was exhilarating for a while having that kind of response, composed and clean, no distortion, strain, etc. I didn't coax any response, just level matched, phase, and time aligned everything. Composed or not, the low frequencies were still just too loud and disorienting compared to the rest, blurring away the speakers. EQing them down ruler flat to the blue line just sounded the most natural to me. Seems like I've learned not everyone is super insensitive to the lower frequencies.

@Subwoofer101 Год назад

That's the important thing, finding the right balance for you. One thing I've noticed personally is that I like when subs taper off right around 17-19 hertz, and I like them to be leveled from about 20-23 hertz, meaning the output is no longer rising once down to 23-24 hertz. Even if they begin to taper a little bit at 21 hertz, so long as it's not a very steep taper. What I do not like is when it continues to get louder in a straight line down to 17 hertz. That causes a little discomfort for me. Definitely splitting hairs, and getting very particular, but that's what audio is about! I appreciate the feedback!

@pastaman6099 Год назад

@@Subwoofer101 Np! Btw 1 of them is a BIC pl-300. Apparently it performs pretty similar to the ~$700-900 range of subs on your list, but as of today it can be found for just $449. Really amazing 8-year warranty too!

@dtibor5903 3 года назад

The tuning frequency of the sub is the most important, that gives the illusion of deepness. I find no reason to go below 35 Hz, most recording just has some unwanted rumble below 30hz

@classicgalactica5879 2 года назад

Try some quality sealed subwoofers such as the SVS SB2000 or the SVS SB2000 Pro, then pop in the first A Quiet Place movie on 4K UHD disk. All throughout that movie, unless you have a particularly large listening area, the sub bass which you absolutely cannot hear will literally make the walls breath in your home. Unfortunately not enough films are encoded with audio tracks featuring that level of deep bass, but when you do find them and and it does hit, it is absolutely thrilling and subs which lack the ability to produce infrasonic bass, 20 hz or lower, simply cannot reproduce it.

@nearchd504 3 года назад

I have a brother in law in army . he has kind of damaged his low frequency response of ears due to repeatedly hearing explosions . . so I guess stiffer soft parts will do the job

@ffs2k 4 года назад

I bought a PC-2000 not long ago. Its soooo good. Later a buddy asked if i could sell and old XTZ sub for him, cus he was getting a PB-2000. Told him to drop it off so I could compare it to my PC-2000 in the prosess. The old sub kicked hard and all that, but the quality was awfull. Boomy and rumbly. And the swiss cheese bass was all over the place. It sounded louder than the PC-2000 at normal volumes, but to me it sounded just fake. Plugging in the PC-2000 and the sweetspot covered twice as many seats and much less obvious nulls. I bet even two of those would not beat ONE PC-2000 when it comes to coverage.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I suspect dual XTZ would provide better coverage, that's just the nature of duals. That said, that's some interesting feedback. Could be placement, even a slight shift could have an effect. Could also be minor differences in DSP delay, assuming you didn't run room correction each time. The room correction profile may also have an impact. If it's set for the PC-2000, it might be trimming and boosting in the wrong spots, which could make nulls worse. It does sound like a PC 2000 has a deeper presentation. The deeper the presentation, the more realism. That sounds like what you experienced. It also sounds like you might be able to run a little more gain on the PC-2000, and a second PC-2000 would make nulls a thing of the past, and really bring it all together. Also check out the Distance Hack and the Gain Hack from my Bass Hack series of you haven't already. Thanks for the feedback!

@ffs2k 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 Thanks for feedback too. Im actually not running a surround receiver. I have the KEF LSX active speakers. So the setup and crossover was the same on both. The PC-2000 was louder at the bottom, but the XTZ was morr boomy in the 50-60hz range or so. Atleast thats what it sounded like. The SVS was more linear. I will get another PC-2000 when budget allows😏

@hifibloke 4 года назад

I think get the best possible quality sub ( sealed or ported according to your preferences ) you can afford x2 , then lern to properly calibrate them... this including proper placement in the room to, putting them where you have free space is pretty pointless in my opinion...

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Yeah, splitting your budget for 2 is the right way to go, unless that puts you in shallow subwoofer territory. I'd rather have a single deep bass sub and save up for another than get two shallow subs.

@ogsolutions9411 4 года назад

Agreed.

@djgdogg1860 4 года назад

What happened to subwoofer 101 no more videos

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

Pretty good one today! Labor Day sale. Heat has been zapping me, but I'm still working at it!

@edstar83 4 года назад

All your bass are belong to us.

@dougtak39 4 года назад

I only watch your videos because of your lazy dogs! LOL! jk

@David25522 4 года назад

I don’t believe he can hear 17 hertz

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

3 hertz lower than the standard hearing range (20 hertz) sounds unbelievable to you? Ok.

@telelaci2 4 года назад

no dogs no like

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

See my Black Friday video, Bear "purs" at the end... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mm8tia_WSCI.html

@TheSodFather09 4 года назад

You can not hear 15 hz stop it, 20 is the limit for human hearing.

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

I can hear to 17 hertz. Look into it. 20 hertz is not the hard cutoff you seem to think it is. Some texts say 15, some 16, some 20. Reliably, watching sweeps and doing specific test tones, 17 hertz is my personal limit. As I age it might go to 18, 20, or 25. For now, it's 17 hertz. I'm not that concerned that you believe me specifically, but the 20-20,000 does seem like an unusually tidy number, wouldn't you say?

@TheSodFather09 4 года назад

@@Subwoofer101 it really is impossible. Maybe get checked by a professional to see what you can really hear

@Subwoofer101 4 года назад

en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hearing_range# I know it's Wikipedia, so it can't POSSIBLY count, but certainly the loudness of the sound will have an impact. There are several sweeps that display frequency. Reliably, I stop hearing around 17 hertz. I can generate test tones as well. 17 hertz, yep. 16 hertz, I can only hear the driver movement, not bass, despite the house shaking. ru-vid.com/group/PLMZU06y9stN5z0pyKkaF-frNPcigSyHi1