Everyone wants better bass, whether they realize it or not! You hear deep bass in real life, but few have heard it faithfully reproduced in their home.
When bass is right, movies and music come alive! I'm all about sound quality, not just max SPL, that's easy.
Subwoofers should reach down to 20 hertz with AUTHORITY, but most start "giving up" between 30 and 50 hertz!
I'll help you get the most from what you have already, list good content, and include my giant dogs Angel (Tibetan Mastiff) and Bear (Newfoundland/Great Pyrenees) to break things up. =) I try to post on Saturdays, but with Fibromyalgia my posting schedule can vary.
My channel is for normal people who want better sound.
World's first SVS affiliate! sub101.link/SVS
Visit my Influencer page: www.amazon.com/shop/subwoofer101
"The List": www.subwoofer101.com/best-subwoofers/
For RU-vid creators: www.tubebuddy.com/subwoofer101
❤ you are awesome bro. I got the sb16 ultra.. but I am having probably.. the same issues with it as you. I find it uncomfortable to listen to in longer periods of time, so I find myself switching it off. So the pb3000, yup. It's go time. 🥳
I run a simple living room LCR setup and have been using a single sub so far, left of center channel and TV table. I don't have a measuring mic, and I'm hesitant buying one for single use, so I have just gone by ear. I did a walkaround the other day with DD toolbox app doing various sub tones, and noticed a strong 50hz dip (almost entirely quiet) about 2 meters in front of where another sub would ideally stand on the other side of TV table. So I just ordered a second one so I'll ideally have one each side when it arrives, 1.6 meters apart. I've glanced over a lot of your videos, and it seems like you do this as well, having one either side of TV. Not all over the room or either side with fancy delay/phase/DSP management like most forums and YT channels will have you do. So this must be working out well for you? Have you gone through REW measurements with mic to decide it, or just figured it sounds good enough by ear?
Have your viewpoints changed in the last 8 yrs? I'm considering stereo subs now. When running mono, any phase cancellation will happen at signal level, while some engineers make a point of having the cancellation better happen acousticly as it would in real life, giving a better feel of spacial awareness ...or some such. I know about standing waves and dead spots etc, which is the reason of multiple subs in the first place, but I don't feel that's enough to keep me from running real stereo configuration vs mono. It's no worse than running a single. But... The only way I'll want to do this, is using high level from speaker outputs. At that point, I'll loose LFE channel. But not sure exactly how important that is.
@Subwoofer101 --- I was wondering if a 9.3.6 or 10.6.8 channel configuration makes sense, how large a room would it require? Would any movies/games even have audio tracks that would take advantage of it? I currently own a huge VHS/DVD collection and watch movies for free on RU-vid and downloaded from free sites, I haven't bought any Nuon DVD/HD VMD/HD DVD/BD/UHD yet or used any streaming services. I don't own any consoles/gaming omputers/arcades but am interested in modern and retro gaming.
I currently have 4 prime elevations in an Atmos set up. Are the ultra elevations any louder ? I see the sensitivity is the same but does the bigger enclosure and bigger driver with new tweeter demonstrate any noticeable increase in volume compared to the prime elevation? Thanks
What you're going to get with the Ultra Elevation is a little more clarity, and maybe that could be perceived as loudness, but I don't think that would solve your problem. I think what you would benefit from is going into the speaker menu of your AVR and adjusting the levels for your Elevation speakers, boosting the ones further from you. My Speaker Level Hack video explains that more. Also, I would be sure that you are getting full lossless audio, which would show up as Atmos/True HD, not Atmos/Dolby Digital II. DTS:X and DTS Master are lossless too. See my Dolby Atmos Hack video if you're unsure. Not having the lossless format can really make height speakers a little underwhelming, which has nothing to do with the speakers themselves. There are other potential issues at play, but I don't want to mislead you into thinking that the Ultra Elevations will be louder, with everything else being equal. They will sound better, but whether it's Prime or Ultra, I think adjusting the speaker level is the real solution for you.
Thank you for detailed response. My bed layer is a 7 channel PSA speakers set up which are highly efficient. The little prime elevation can’t quite keep up and was hoping the ultra elevations would be an improvement. I may have to just go with the PSA slant speaker. Thanks again
Dynamic Volume is your friend. I use dynamic. Volume in both music and movies. On my older Avpa1hd when I engaged DV the sound went down but on my Marantz processor if I engage DV on low it gets louder. Two different processors doing two different things. I know others that have experienced this also. I would rather have it available than not.
I use a LCR prime elevation setup the past few years specifically to free up some floor space in a small basement theater and to keep my young kids from topping over bookshelf speakers/stands. I've been happy with them for movies paired with my old PB12 NSD svs sub. I had been meaning to buy the 2 back surrounds and call it a day but these new ultras are a curveball. Now I'm wondering if I just replace my front stage LCR with Elevation ultras and move the old elevations to surround duty. I've been waiting for more independent reviews/measurements to justify the upgrade. For now I'm going to focus on replacing my old trusty PB12 to a pair of sealed SVS SB3000s, like you mention I would like to run my crossover higher but it's too localizable today with one sub and I've always had ported subs and curious to give sealed a try. My space is pretty small so I just don't need all that SPL power the ported has. Also you are totally fine if you have 2 screws in the stud, each screw should hold around 40-50 lbs easy and with these being around 12 lbs as long as you don't do a pull up you should be fine. You could probably even just use 3M claws, which are so amazing, I have a bunch of heavy 4" thick GIK sound absorber/diffusers hanging off those and never had an issue.
Yeah, I would definitely run LCR with the Ultras, and run a 6.2 setup, 1 rear channel to utilize the 3rd Prime. I would encourage you to stay with the ported, even if it means PB-2000 Pro's or PB -1000 Pro's, just make sure they match. You can set them up as sealed to see if you like it, but I'm betting you'd go back to the ported configuration. No, you don't need all of the max output, but the headroom is nice. PB-1000 Pro's would be on par with your older sub, and the PB-2000 Pro's will just be more explosive at the same volume. Weird to say it like this, but you haven't really heard your older PB12 NSD, because of the single configuration. So much is lost from the standing wave effect of a single sub. As far as needing, or not needing the extra output, you're going to end up setting the subs where you want them in terms of volume, whether it's ported or sealed. Ported are just more efficient, resulting in more output capacity. Everything that seems problematic for ported subwoofers pretty much goes away with matching duals, especially in sounding a LOT tighter than a single does. Being able to switch between ported and sealed is a great way to figure it out. You can't do that with purely sealed subs. And I don't mean to steer you away from the PB-3000 series, they are what I'm running now and I LOVE them. I just like to respect people's budget. Just keep them matching. You wouldn't be unhappy with the SB-3000, I just imagine you'd be happier with matching ported subs. Let me know what you think.
@@Subwoofer101 yeah i’ve been going back and forth for about a year on this, haha. Ill take a look at the pb2000s dimension wise but saving space is high on my list
Hello 👋🏼 Are these easier to drive because they are 6 ohms? I have an Emotiva XPA-3 gen 2 8 ohm amp and it runs my Prime Towers and Ultra Center channel very well without heating up my amp or my Yahmaha RX-A1030 receiver. Prime Elevation surrounds and front presences. I’m start a dedicated theater room soon with the same receiver and the new Emotiva XPA 3 gen 3 Just looking to get the Titan Towers and mix them with the an Ultra canter and Prime Elevations. So is mixing 6 ohm speaker with 8 ohm okay? 🤷🏻♂️ Thank you
I haven't had ANY issues with speakers having 6 and 8 ohm ratings. The amplifier is pretty much always delivering different levels of power to each channel, and nothing is a static load very long. No issues that I can hear. Keep in mind, I'm just driving these with a Denon X4500, and I've run them together, Prime and Ultra Elevations, no problem. Everything set to Small. I hadn't thought about it until you brought it up. A problem might occur with a budget AVR, or if maybe you are running everything full range with no external power. What you're talking about shouldn't be an issue. If I understood correctly though, if you're going with Ultra Evolution Towers, of any sort, I would strongly consider going with the Ultra Elevations. I've been favoring the Ultra Elevations, and keeping the Prime Elevations and Ultra Center off. I would prefer that every speaker have the same Evolution tweeter. I imagine you might feel the same, but it would definitely work. If it's a matter of them not fitting physically, I get that, but that Evolution tweeter is where it's at.
I have 3 total subwoofers, two of them are in the midpoint of my room which is about 20 to 22 feet wide, and one of them is in the middle of that 20-22 feet. I set my phase out the two in the midpoint of my room to 0° and the one in the middle of the 20-22 feet part of the room to 180° phase. I don’t know if it’s technically right, but this has sounded the best and made for the smoothest bass response for my ears, and eliminates my dead spots. Very interesting!
I'm happy to see your making content again. Been watching the channel for almost a decade. Love the comparison and details with svs products like always. I wish you good health and positive feedback. Keep up the good work brother 👍
The tweeters from the speakers are supposed to be at ear level. Tweeters have a sweet spot and its a flat plane. There isn't any up and down range for tweeters. They have to be on the ear plane in the room. Ideally pointing at the listener(s). In saying that the tweeter should also be in the middle of the screen. You can use the AVR and set the dialog height to compensate for the hardware setup but in my experience they never work properly. So the seating position dictates the speakers then the speakers dictate where the screen should be.
Lots of good theory in there, but my point was not to suffer if the ideal height is uncomfortable. Like I said in the video, TV height rules vary depending on who you ask. Audio person? That would be your point of view, rightly so. Ask an interior designer, and the rules change. Another point though, speakers can do quite well off axis. Depends on the speaker of course, but I employ extreme toe in, and I'd have a hard time going back. Just tried it one day for giggles and I really liked it. Good points though, and I appreciate the feedback!
The stack is definitely for the shock factor. I'll only run matching subwoofers, so I didn't have the wall of bass going. That said, I'm loving having the PB-3000's back! Definitely worth matching dual subwoofers. What sub do you have now?
A pair of these will be game changing. Some people say that about things that are slightly better. I'm talking truly impressive, and sounding phenomenal with everything. Top of the heap in this particular stack of subs, but of course the 2000 and 3000 would be upgrades, but these are the most easily attainable. Here's my affiliate link: sub101.link/Dual-PB-1000-Pro
@@Subwoofer101 thanks much, I've watched a lot of reviews on svs subs mostly on your channe, from the first gen to the pros l and I'm saving money to buy one and then duals
I only grabbed one PB-2000 Pro for now, and it works SO so well with “The Nines” I just bought too. Once I get into whatever house I’m gonna buy, I plan on adding a second. Until then, I’m pretty sure my neighbor wouldn’t be too excited if I bought the second one any sooner lol.
I’m wondering if it’s worth the dollar to upgrade my trusty Denon X2600 to something else..I have around 1000 to play with but also need to change my TV
@@Subwoofer101 I’ve got an 65” DX902 which is still brilliant but hankering after an OLED for movies. I do have an Epson TW9400 PJ too so guess the bigger TV can wait. The amp suits my needs but got upgrade fever lol
@matthewgould4464 That upgrade fever is a tough one, gets expensive fast. Would you be going up in size on the TV? Have you done the Spears and Munsel calibration? I have to ask, what is your subwoofer situation? Specifics like which model, how many, etc...
@@Subwoofer101 yes! Upgrade fever is a big issue! Not done calibration and wanted to go from 65” to something like 83” plus. I’m running KEF Q series 5.1.2 with a KEF Kube 10b
I should add seating distance is around 3.5m. My pj is onto a 110” tab tensioned screen so very lucky to have a choice atm. Wondering whether to sell PJ set up to fund a new bigger TV. Those Bravia 9’s look nice!
Thanks for reminding abt Dynamic volume. I was never using it but after putting it in Light mode,it made hige difference in center spkr clarity and surrounds performance. I regret not using it till now.
I have always used both Dynamic EQ and Dynamic Volume on my Marantz AV Receiver for Movies and TV Shows. Useful in an apartment, as you get Louder Dialogue and Bass effects at Lower volumes sounds Great to my ears
Funny, I shot a video on that. I still need to publish it, but I didn't like it at first, but because I always need to be reclined because of my Post Concussion Syndrome, it's actually worked out well for me. My neck isn't bent down like I'm looking at my feet anymore. I agree that it's not typical, and not ideal for most, but I'm happy I was "forced" to put it up that high. Never would have gone that high otherwise. Now, if I had a set up where I could put it lower, I would still mount it relatively high, but that's just because my neck is less strained. And thank you, I'm glad to be posting videos again!
I know I'd prefer ported, but I have a good way for you to figure out what you prefer. Set up your dual PB4K's as sealed, plug the ports, set the port configuration in the App as sealed, and disable all App PEQ's. Redo room correction, set up as you normally would. Live with it for at least a month, or less if you don't like it. If you love sealed, it's a good idea. If you prefer ported, PB-16 over SB-16.
Higher voltage allows for smaller diameter cables. The weight of the cable alone would be worth doubling the voltage, and if I were to do it again, I'd go 48 volt. As it is, I use 4/0 (0000 gauge) welding cable, which isn't cheap, and I could use more power if I used 2 runs of 4/0, or 350 MCM, expensive and heavy. Still, being able to comfortably run one AC and the home theater is pretty cool 😎. More solar panels and thicker cables, and I could run both AC units and the home theater. 2800-3200 watts, but when I do that the cable gets a little warm. At 2300 watts and under, cables don't get warm at all, so I keep that limit. Fun fact, the theater, even at full tilt, barely uses over 500 watts. Usually 260 to 350, and a third of that is the TV. Class D subwoofer amps are very efficient.
Thanks so much for this video! Was tearing my hair out trying to get the RTA to truly be in real time. Didn’t notice the record button till I saw your video. Thanks again!
I wouldn’t be able to enjoy movies with that setup. It’s so visually chaotic. I’m all about audiophile gear, understand the need for full range speakers etc… but it’s just so cluttered looking to me.
Everyone has their own taste. The challenge is getting a mixed use room to be usable and not look offensive. These are some of the larger subs, the PB-1000 Pro's are the smallest I can comfortably recommend, but deep, proper bass requires some real estate. All depends on what you value. The movie experience with these subs was outstanding, and they bring realism few people can imagine, and all while being comfortable to listen to all day. To me, it's worth the trade off. Others go with tiny speakers, but they get tiny sounding results. The Micro 3000 is crazy good for it's size, probably more up your alley. Some people have the luxury of being able to hide their big subs, but that just isn't in the cards for rooms like this. If you want to really see chaos, see my most recent video. Granted, it's for show, and not to be used in practice, but I could imagine you either laughing or being too shocked to laugh 😂
@@Subwoofer101 I get it. I understand large subs & full range speakers. I have been doing audio stuff for 30+ years. I used to have a pair of full range floor speakers with 15” subs. My car has a $15k system with a 12.5” JL Audio W7 powered by a JL 1000.1 mono amp (along with dual 300 watt amps for front/rear stage, diamond audio hex series mids & tweeters, 32band EQ with 5.1 decoding etc…).
@@Subwoofer101thank you, this is really helpful. I followed your advise to put the levels all the way down on avr for the subs and tune it on the subs. Still confused on what the crossover for this subs
@SirChiefUK I disable the crossover on the subwoofer itself, and let the AVR handle everything. I'm glad you enjoy your equipment more after using my tips! Love to hear it.
Is this a window unit, a through the wall unit, or can it be installed either way? Your nice video shows it installed as as wall unit, but the manual says window only.
I installed it through the wall, but it is a "window unit". I made sure no vents were blocked, but I don't know if it affected the performance. I was definitely happy with it.
