I need to get some of that stuff! I tried never dull on my Mosin, but that didn't work. Kept getting dirty patches. Will give this stuff a try. Thanks for the video!
I have tried the never dull stuff too. I tried many things, but nothing worked as well as the Big 45 Frontier. I couldn't believe that no one had posted a video on this product used to clean bores before.
It IS that thing to you use to clean dishes. It's a Scotch-Brite pad, nothing more. I was foolish enough to order one. I just happen to have a pack of Scotch-Brite pads already and I compared them; identical. Don't waste your money.
@@MosinVirus that may be. but I have used the Dollar store scotch brite pads. use the ones that say pure copper... it worked for me. but if you want to be safe... get the expensive one i guess.
I used Frontier 45 to clean some of my guns rusted from sitting under water for 3 or 4 weeks from hurricane Katrina. It did a great job on the bores and also the severely rusted exteriors. Thanks for the video.
I used very tight fitting Choreboy, on what I thought was a rusted bore, but I checked it with a neodyum magnet to make sure it was copper and not copper plated steel. It worked, removing hard deposits that I had thought needed to be honed out. The bore is now very serviceable and shiny clean, though with some pitting that I can live with. 👍
Just tried this method on a neglected family "heirloom" rifle that probably hadn't been cleaned or oiled in 50 or 60 years. Works as advertised! I'm impressed. The barrel had obvious rusty spots in the bore that defied removal and I could never get a clean patch even after an hour of cleaning. Thanks for the tip!
After watching this video I ordered some. Holy cow! Was I impressed. I have two milsurps that I've cleaned and cleaned, but the bore was still dark and I had simply accepted the fact that I wasn't going to get them to look very good. Then I tried this method. The bores on both rifles look virtually new now! I can't wait to get them to the range to see how much it improves accuracy. My daughter used some to clean the rusty spokes on her 1996 motorcycle that she's restoring. It worked very quickly and shined up everything she used it on. Now I need to order more! Thanks very much for posting this helpful video!
Thanks again! I will try shooting it and see. The rifling looks good. I spent $325 for it at a small local gunshop. I hope it was not a foolish investment but it looked pretty interesting and I had to have it.😊
+Alex Beda Depending on the gun you got, it may or may not be a great deal, but overall, I think $325 is not bad for just about anything other than Mosins. Definitely try shooting, and even if you never get a clean patch out of the bore, don't worry, it is not a problem. Simply make sure to remove the loose debris and oil well, then wipe dry before shooting.
Man I wish I had been more interested in firearms 6+ years ago. I'd love to be able to get a decent Russian capture Kar98k without having to pay $1200 - $1500 for it.
Soak the bore with Ed's red bore solvent that you can make yourself! Let it soak in the bore for 30 minutes to an hour then give it a good scribbling with a bronze brush!
You can see that some of the patches were used, but not all. Im thinking he has more and possibly he is pleased about it. Worms could be trained to inspect the bore, which would be my guess.
I have a original no. 4 mk 1 * lee enfield and I’ve been just trying to find anything close to help me figure out if my headspace and bore is fine. Seems ok but I just wanna make sure I don’t blow up after I fix it. Recommendation?
The SAAMI field gauges on a lee Enfield are 70 thou VS the British military field gauge at 74 thou. Take your bolt head off the bolt and see if the threaded end is below the long bolt lug that runs almost the whole length of the bolt. If below flush (threaded hole where your bolt head threads in) you will probably crack cases, worst case scenario is gas out of the chamber (Personal experience with a Savage No4 mk1* using HXP 303) but your rifle has built in fail safety features to not catastrophically fail. I've never seen a lee Enfield receiver that popped like a mauser or a M1903 where the whole top of the receiver was gone. A little quick method i've found is when have the bolt closed, look thru the gas vent hole on the receiver. If your bolt head covers a quarter to half of that gas hole your probably fine, another method I also discovered is with the action closed take a flash light and point it at the chamber/bolt head area on the action then look thru the gas escape hole and see if you see light/daylight. If you do then your probably in trouble. I will make note that when building the rifles at the factory the british had only 2 gauges a 64 thou GO and a 74 thou NO GO, your rifle could have been built from the factory to have a headspace of 72 or 73 thou, as long as it ate a 64 gauge and NOT the 74 gauge then the rifle was in proper tolerances. Bloke on the range has done 2 videos on what to look for when "getting" a lee enfield rifle when it comes to bedding and such for the No1 and No4 rifles. I'll try and link the vids for you.
@@lilaNilla ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4nRVr4ft1wQ.html Really nice vid on discussing the Lee Enfield, I wanted to add that the flash light and gas hole method are things i've found in my Lee Enfields that work due to the experinces of my No4 Mk1* Savage, gas/burned powder smoke would leak from the action while still closed and above the case head where the case thins out to form the walls would have a pretty noticeable crack as well which rendered the pieces of brass useless for reloading. The solution is a new old stock Lee Enfield bolt if out of tolerances, no one makes large Lee Enfield bolt heads anymore unless you stalk the internet for large bolt head which i've only seen 3 times pop up in 10 years that measured to 0.637 inches which is typically a number 3 bolt head, yes bolt heads can be swapped to be back in spec but the bolt head isn't wearing down, its the bolt itself which should be fitted by a gunsmith AND a special proof load has to be used after proper fitting your new bolt to the action, the reason why is because the special proof load will help mate as much locking surface on the bolt lugs to the mortises on the receiver. Lee Enfield rifles are rather complicated to build and are not a straight forward process. A pretty knowledgeable gunsmith/armorer would be building the rifles/repairing them.
Appreciate your sharing your experience. Just watched your bluing videos and made it look easy enough I think I can do it. An old fellow at a neat gun shop gave me a ball of this Big 45 Frontier Cleaner when I asked him what to use on surface rust. I haven't used it yet but appreciate your endorsement and use of it. I just got a Mosin that turns out is about as pristine as they come according to my gunsmith who has five of them. It wasn't caked in cosmoline and recommended using paraffin (wax) oil and a cloth to clean it up. Don't know if you've tried that but would like to hear. He said it's not as harsh on the metal. I 'm also getting an old FN Hi Power that has a lot of rust covering and some pitting on the slide but excellent mechanical condition and bore. I'm hoping Big 45 can help with that. Thinking about using your bluing technique on it but don't want to mess too much with it or the Mosin. Like the look of them as is pretty muc. Like an old timer once told me years ago, "It's not how old a gun is. It's how good it shoots." Keep up the good work and sharing.
Thank you so much for watching. I think you will like it. The cleaner safely shaves off rust without hurting bluing. You can also use various gun solvents when using the cleaner to aid in removing stuff that shouldn't be there.
I use a chore boy scrubber for the same purpose, works well. Just wrap slivers of it around a tired bronze bore brush. Wipeout foaming bore cleaner is great stuff, but pretty harsh.
you posted this when I was just a dumb kid in the third grade, and now Im using it to prep a resto project for the museum I work for, thanks for helping me get these relics back in firing order
Blue wonder and a bronze phosphate brush does wonders on a surplus barrel. Takes the rust, carbon, snd lead fowling all in one effort. Folow up with a CLP patch and you be good to go. Removes surface rust with 0000 steel wool.
Try using WD-40 or something similar in the bore and on a bronze brush to soak and scrub the bore. Patch out on occasion. When satisfied carbon is removed, dry the bore and saturate the bore and a nylon brush to coat the bore evenly with a copper remover and let it set as most copper removers are chemical action rather than mechanical. Use a nylon brush so the copper remover will not be dissolving a bronze brush and giving you a false indication of more copper. Change the brand of copper remover on occasion for better results. I think you will be pleased with the results.
You know it's been a terrible day and you should've finished watching the video the following morning when you begin wondering what's up with that 40mm Bofors shell standing there between the patches and bronze bristle brush somewhere around minute 10:20. Thanks for the video though, fine gent, gonna be using this method this very same weekend on my 1891 Argentine cavalry carbine :-)
@@MosinVirus Indeed! thanks so much! Done with the carbine, but still got two 29" Mausers and a 16" Marlin Camp 9 to clean and I definitely got no excuses now haha :-) The idea about adding the product to the bristle brush was genius, and don't worry, I bet lots of folks accidentaly ignored the insert. For example, when you buy a Desert Eagle pistol, you get an insert amongst the ton of advertising and stuff that explains how to properly handle the gun in order to avoid all malfunctions. I saw absolutely no reviews making mention of such an instruction set, and plenty of messages all over the web on how unreliable the DE is. Well... there you go... not sure if I'd blame the users in a 100%, because those pointers should be in the manual, not a leaflet. Anyway, thanks again for the video! Saved it to "watch later" by the way, 'cause it's the only way I found of bookmarking them. Have a great day!
Today I used a worn down brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool with jb bore paste and kroil. Took corrosive ammo damage down quite a lot. I was really not expecting it to get it as smooth as it did. Those specks wouldn't come out with normal hours long cleaning...
Well. I am a HAPPY MAN!! just handloaded 45.5 gr Varget and speer 150 .311 and shot a 1" 4 shot group at 50 yards. wow. I was getting ready to sell the gun. just got it last week for $300 with a spam can of ammo and accessories. the bore had corrosive damage but the pits seemed to not really be there more like corrosion sticking out not craters. initially shot 6-8" groups with surplus ammo. then tried some PPU and got it down to 4-5" cleaned it up with steel wool and its down to 3" at 50 yards. handloads are king. 1"! writing this load down in my books! thanks for the idea and saving my rifle!
If you want shiny, put some mothers mag and aluminum polish on a patch and run it through a few times followed by a thorough cleaning. I damn near blinded my self after doing this for my mosin, the bore was bright as hell. There's no shine like mothers =)
Thank you. I wasn't going for shine. merely cleanliness. with pitted bores, they tend to load up a bit more. and become more difficult to clean, so this gentle shaving off lead and carbon method seems to work.
I understand, I used some 00 steel wool drenched in hoppes or my first pass on my mosin, followed by a shit ton of dirty patches, then I experimented with the mothers polish and was blown away by the crud it pulled out after I had just pulled a pure white patch out. If you do try it, use very little because it's a paste and will make a mess.
@@MosinVirus i put the threads on a used brush and used my drill to run through it. I did (brush-wipe)x6 times, and its the first time in ages i can see reflection of light in the barrel. Its not mirror clear but its no longer rust brown, so yeah this surely is better than the brass brush. Cant wait to test it at the range, last time the devation was 1-2 feet in any direction from where you aimed.
I subscribed to your channel awhile back because of how easy and thorough you are to learn from. Thank you for the Frontier Big 45 metal cleaner advice. Luckily, I have saved my worn-down brushes. I thought for smaller calibers, but this is perfect! I have been struggling with a MAS 49/56 bore, but I think this might do the trick! Thank you again!
Sorry, that was when I still used FrogLube. That was the second liquid I used. Currently I still use Hoppe's bore gel, and to lubricate and oil i use ballistol or Lucas oil when I need it to be a little less runny.
Very excited to try this out, and hopefully based on the comments. Just got a 1916 Spanish Mauser and after so much cleaning just couldn’t get the bore clean. Going to try this next.
Ordered some of that Frontier wool. Hopefully it will come in clutch. My mosin ever since i got it 4 yrs ago or 5 the pitch black fouling has never ended (i do shoot it) im tired of it and want to see patches come out clean for once and keep it that way after i shoot.
The metal/alloy Frontier Foil stuff works well, it doesn't scratch up or ruin the bore... that's amazing!! When you did all the barrels that were really dirty did it remove all the fowling?
Thank You. I have four Mosins, 3 Tula, and one Izy. One (I will not name the very popular reseller) said: "Bright and shinney bore" (the Izy). That rifle was like from a different century compared to my three Tulas all manufactured in the 30s. The bore is black. NOT bright, not shinney. I spent numerous hours on each Tula to get a non-black bore. All three shot amazingly accurate to 100 yards (which is all I can see these days at 64 years old). I want to try this method on the Izy and see what happens. The Seller was a complete lie as the three Tulas (which had black bores were "cleaner" than the Izy these folks sold me). I will get back to you with the results after I try your recommended methods.
Hi I clean my Mosin and Kar 98k with ballistol. Is it there some difference than doing it with the hoppes you used in the video? I use primarly ballistol, in past I used some special bore solvents like BoreTech, etc. but I got rid of it and I stay only with Ballistol because I heard the special bore solvents could damage the bore
@@MosinVirus okay, many people recommended me only ballistol, few of them recommended different solvents, so I made an avarage of that more people recommended only ballistol so I use it.
@@TimoFilipek some people really like the smell. Once it sits for a bit on the gun and most of it fumes off, I don't mind it either. But during cleaning it is a whole other story.
Your metal wrapped brush is a good way to scrub out metal and powder fouling. AND, You might consider LAPPING the bore with a mild abrasive paste such as JB Bore compound, which is currently a Brownell's product. ...If you cannot get this in your country automotive valve grinding paste can be used. This will remove impact imbedded fouling...and smooth out the machining or tooling marks inside the barrel... This "should" have been done when the barrel was new... but, BORE LAPPING late is better than never. "Kroil" (or possibly substitute Ballistol or Frog lube) on the tight fitting bore mop first with lapping compound slathered over the top... 20 to 40 passes through should be enough to "lap" the bore... Then clean, as you normally would, to get the abrasive paste out and oil with Ballistol, Frog lube , Kroil or your favourite gun oil. Additional cleaning of fouled bore after firing many rounds with same process and fewer strokes may improve accuracy lost to fouling. As accuracy degrades over time with numerous rounds fired you will know when to clean and lap again.
Not saying frog lube does this with every solvent but the people at the gun shop I work at made the mistake of cleaning the ar15 rifles we use for navy quals and then switched to remoil and COLD NOT for the life of them stop the guns from rusting due to the chemical reaction of the remoil and frog lube in the pores of the metal... or so the story goes. So I don't recommend mixing any lube/cleaner with frog lube
@@MosinVirus I'd be interested in the results but I'm not sure how long they used frog lube before switching or how long it takes to seap into the pores of metal
A good cleaner I used on a old 30_06 Midland barrel bore is Wipe Out foam. The rifle was not grouping properly and after the cleaning with Wipe Out it is dead on from a cold bore. A good follow up with G96 or Rem Oil to clean out all the foam and finish with dry patches.
Speaking of , I picked up a Cva Optima 50cal on the cheap.. its been stored for few years with powder and sabbot in it. "No Primer" ! The breech plug is good removable and not rusted and the rest of the gun is really nice shape,, but the BORE is like old dried rusty.. I removed breech plug and tried pushing from nozzle to clear it even gave some fiber hammer taps on the rod. I used a 243 brass casing to fill the void. To know avail I haven't put any solvent in the bore or attempted to clean it , wondering if I should just tie a string to trigger " or would that score the bore more . Any good advice appreciated
@@MosinVirus Thanks I removed the plug and sprayed the powder real good with ballistol and also down the bore, now it sits muzzle up leaking some rust out. Also sprayed with a mixture of ballistol and distilled water.
I found a mosin with a bullet loaded in it. I would say it was in pretty good condition once I had removed and polished the metal and wood. However, I've never cleaned the bore. By the looks, it looks quite pitted but the pattern and groove (sry not an expert!) look sharp and deep. Should I use the same method? And is there any cheap cleaning kit (brush with rod) that you could recommend? Thanks!
This method just gets the bore cleaner faster. It would not remove stuff out of pitting, but it is actually better to keep pitting loaded up. The cheapest way I think woukd be to get a bore snake. For rods I prefer carbon fiber rods.
Loved your video and I definitely will try this method with my BYF 41. BTW. I am also trying to look for a good cleaning rod. Who makes the rod that you're using in the video? And what size is it? Thank you.
I don't remember the brand, but at this time I am using carbon fiber rods, one for shotguns (thick rod that works for larger calibers) and one for smaller calibers including .22lr. I thick they are both about 40" long. I also use bore snakes.
I generally dont polish bores. Reason being is that if you try to polish down to the level of pitting the bore diameter will change. The firearm at that point will lose accuracy. I think of it the same way as polishing any metal. If you try to polish out scratches or pitting you are removing material.
I have a Swiss military rifle that I traded an old friend for years ago. I became obsessed in cleaning this rifle. What I did was place it on my table in a gun holder and ran patches thru it 1-2 times a day saturated in Shooters Choice cleaning fluid. It took 6 months until it became clean. Now patches come out spotless today if I clean it. I tried for years cleaning it but it wasn't until later in my life I just decided to try cleaning it like this and for this long but it did clean out and the bore now looks like new and shines like a mirror. At first the green would run out of it as green as grass. I think that was from the copper being broken down by the cleaning fluid.
good to know. I believe the Swiss used grease to clean their bores and rifles in general. I have so far seen very few swiss rifles with bad bores. of course the ones I was getting are not too old (K11, k31)
Looks like alot of physical labor, let me interject my method.. I plastisine/clay plug the crown then I flood the barrel with karosene/engine degreaser right up all the way to include the chamber, then prop it up against the wall for a couple days, then I drain the barrel run a patch or two and done.. spotless and looks factory new. simple and cheap and little to no labor.
And when you thought that molotov cocktails couldn't be improved, this gentleman shows up with... molotov javelins! woohoo! Let's just hope those antifa pieces of shit don't see your comment :-)
i bought a 2-pack cause of this video. not cause of rust but to "get the lead out" and It's Works !!!! just like you said. the pack goes a long way for deleading barrel's. i have beautiful Finnish Sako 1942 M-39 that looks new. has a new bbl. that they did when refurbished after the war that i bought from Classic. although it's new bbl. couldn't get out all the cosmoline lands n groves well this stuff is amazing. i also did all my families other barrels too. even revolvers that shoots cast lead rounds like my first hand gun 1974 S&W Model 10 blued and i can now see all the rifling. with blued guns you don't want to use harsh chem.'s on them. i have a .308 Savage model 11 which is a great rifle with a Boyds thumb hole stock that i shoot FMJ and didn't think it was leaded well i was wrong now it shoots 1-1/2" groups at 100yd.'s. i don't use "big 45" everytime but maybe every 6-8 months . it works !!!!!!!!!!!! thanks again. buy it on ebay it's cheaper with free shipping too.
yup, truly does get the bores shinny. but also cleans out the grooves real well. it is not just S.S. coils either cause it seems softer? but if you do what you said with an old brush it pulls out the copper, lead, carbon easily without hurting any rifling. then the patches get cleaner n cleaner. good call.
Will be trying this on my Finnish m24. The gun is in tremendous condition considering its age, just some light pitting in the bore. I have used most of my pads trying to clean it.
I've used Whisk rust remover with pretty good results. I take off all the wood first, not sure if drips or spills will hurt it but my stocks are immaculate. never thought to use this method thanks for the tips! beautiful k98 also
i neglected to clean my mauser bore for way too long and it ended up as you say, packed. needless to say I am still trying to make it clean. I let the bore soak for a day in gun slick solvent and it did not even come close to finishing the job.
I would think that steel wool would actually wear the bore out eventually.
5 лет назад
@@MosinVirus You only use it with gun oil and when you first buy an old gun. 0000 steel wool and oil cleans outside rust off of barrels and other parts without doing anything to the bluing.
Bought an Aero Precision barrel about 4 months ago. Opened it up, made sure everything looked ok, packed it back up. Finally put a rifle together with it last week, look down the bore, and its got a coat of rust through most of the barrel. What should I do? Is this even normal for a new barrel? I didn't even think about lubing it up when I got it, thought every barrel came greased up from the factory. Never had a round fired through it.
Yeah I already used up all my patches trying to get the rust out. The last one I had was still pretty black upon exiting the barrel. I just sent Aero a disgruntled complaint, that's really not cool, IMO. If they had oiled that properly from the factory it should be good for at least 6 months sitting in plastic in a box on a shelf. Had a lot of metal shavings coming out of the barrel too, more than I would consider normal from machining stragglers. Kinda seems like they forgot a couple steps.
Yeah bruh. So check this out. Before I sent it back I made a snide remark about how the barrel seemed to have all the properties of 416 stainless instead of CrMoV like I ordered, wonder what'd happen if I tested it. They still RMA'ed it with a dimple in it, and the one they sent me is clearly a different material. Most likely actually 4150 this time. Lighter, more of a dull gun metal finish, and the rifling wasn't as deep.
That brush is worn down btw. If the brush was good it would have been a real chore to make the bristles pop the other way. I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video or not, it was a long time ago. The Big 45 metal cleaner "wrap" works best on worn down brushes. You can use more of it on the brush that way. That is why i never toss old brushes.
A awesome way I came up with to hone out a bad pitted rifled barrel and make it almost new. Remove barrel from the rifle and strip any parts from the barrel. Dry brush the barrel really well to remove heavy rust and garbage and rinse well with chlorine free brake cleaner and swab with a clean mop, this will remove any left over grease/oils. Plug the muzzle end of the barrel and fill with evaporust rust dissolver. Let sit over night then pour it back into the bottle. Rinse barrel with hot soapy water and rinse with hot water, swab dry. Mop a good coat of Rem oil or similar into the barrel. Tape the muzzle end of the barrel shut and mix up a batch of clear poly type pourable epoxy resin, stand rifle up muzzle down and pour enough resin down the barrel to fill from the bottom up about 3 inches or so, let cure When dry pound the epoxy slug out with a wooden dowel, you now have a exact fit honing tool for your bore. Trim both ends of the slug square with a saw. Bevel one end of the slug about 3/16" on a 45deg angle all the way around with sand paper, this will be the leading edge of the honing slug. Purchase a tube of course cut steel polishing compound, apply to the mouth of the barrel and slug, push slug bevel end first through the barrel repeatedly until desired hone is achieved. The bevel on the front is to allow the compound to force it's way between the slug and barrel. You can also mix aluminum oxide of desired grit directly into the epoxy making a slug with built in abrasive qualities. I have made barrels that were damn near garbage look like almost new using this process. Warning: do not skip the oiling step before pouring epoxy into the barrel or it will be really hard to remove
@@MosinVirus It all depends on the grit you use and how many passes you take with it. I use this process more on antique cap and ball muzzle loaders with horrific barrels where it really doesnt matter much, you just run a thicker patch or cast the next size bigger round ball. But even with modern smokeless a bad barrel is a bad barrel, so even loosening the bore a touch and having a smooth rifling and a clean smooth bore is still better then a crusty barnacle filled barrel any day. It does work extremely well though, even using a little fine lapping compound will make a fouled leaded barrel shine like it just came off the shelf.
So this bore will never get mirror like shine correct? It looked clean, but not shiny with light pitting, just like my sportarized Brazilian Mauser 1908 I just purchased. I was very disappointed when I couldn't get the bore to shine like my other surplus rifles. I will try your brush method, but guns with this kind of bore is safe and accurate in your opinion?
the pitted bore will never shine. They are perfectly safe to shoot. they simply load up a lot quicker. I have quite a few bores in this condition and some outshoot my bright and shiny bores.
+MosinVirus when I first got into shooting I cleaned religiously and FREAKED when I'd see surface rust then would clean like mad. I live in the always wet north west and have accepted surface rust as it never seems to affect my shot. but for anyone who doesnt want to order anything. nothing beats a hot clean. heat the barrel up with firing then clean. repeat until rust is gone.
+MosinVirus also. one of the best shooters I have is a 115 year old winchester 30-30. rusted bore like you wouldn't believe. shoots like a dream lol. thanks for posting mosin.
MosinVirus very small amount. Not even noticeable. I use the same method on a blued Taurus 357 Magnum. Came out even shinier looks brand new. No more rust pitting or corrosion. I use the same method on a spear bayonet on my Mosin Nagant. It works
MosinVirus it will only remove bluing if you don't use oil and if you rub aggressively and with a lot of pressure. However in a barrel that is already corroded who cares you're just trying to get the most gunk out as possible.
yes, the usual remnants of shooting will get into the pits. that is mainly why people with some older guns never get a white patch out of their bores. that is not really an issue though, and as long as you have good lands and tight bore, the accuracy will not be affected.
MosinVirus if you take the time to clean even the pits out and then use some good oils that repel dirt/fouling you can start to get a patina pretty much so that if you continue to shoot it and fully clean (with the same oils) it you can fill in the pittings and make it smooth like a cast iron pot. (cast iron pots start out with a lot of holes in them and the "seasoning" process fills them in) pretty much filling the pitting and can give you better groups. you can block the barrel and fill it with a clp and let it sit as a good way to soak the barrel with gun oil to make it easier to clean. (with a lot of mosins an empty shell casing is a good way to seal the barrel and it can catch anything that the oil pulls off)
MosinVirus its worked for all of mine. using that method all of mine have patches come out looking the same color as when i put them through with any product ive tried. and after shooting 2 or 3 tight fitting patches gets them clean if ive shot less than about 50 rounds (shooting corrosive ammo) and whether i use a brush or not the patches come out clean after that. the oils i use form a protective barrier to keep anything from sticking well
As always, thanks for sharing. Just ordered some to try. I've spent more than the $6 on much more frivalous things. And if it doesn't work I can always clean my frying pans.lol BTW Have you tried their cleaning solvent?
mklean1 Hello. No I haven't tried their solvent, because I really like Hoppe's Elite bore gel. It is non lubricating, so the gunk washes off the brushes really easily under running water, and it cleans better than many other things I have tried.
Thank you for taking the time to reply. Will let you know how it works for me. Have an SKS that I sent off the bolt and trigger group to have tuned up a bit. Want to gice them a nice clean place to come home to.
gotta let it sit, and then repeat the process. It's not a one time treatment and done. However, I'll see what you're getting at this week ... couple CnR type things coming in.
pinkeye00 I know. the only problem with most foam cleaners is that it is not always good to leave them in for very long periods of time. Well, it is up to you. but I would still recommend you try this cleaner.
It takes 6:29 for you to GET TO THE FUCKING POINT....GOOOD GRIEF...By the way... You can accomplish the exact same thing with a strip of scotch brite, a little WD-40 and a patch jag...
Oh, Frog Lube. I have stopped using it though. It becomes a gunky mess after sitting for a while. I am now using basically two things - Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel (for fast cleaning) and Ballistol for rust protection, lubrication, etc.
Good video. Hope you're being careful when you pull that brass tip back through the muzzle though, I've nicked a couple of crowns that way in my younger days.
Very different. Steel wool would remove bluing in a heartbeat. This removes top rust but leaves bluing untouched. Might be closer to some cleaning pads. Not sure which but definitely different from steel wool.
