Commodore VX VY Front Control Rods and Castor Bushing Replacement 

Thank you for letting me know. It may be the least entertaining video online but I think it shows how to do it. Cheers

Thanks. Glad it helped

They can be slippery little buggers.

@@lynpatnat ive still got swearing at it up my sleeve too, so will hit it with a double whammy

Thanks. I think my next video will be about the failed speedometer in my 1993 80 series LandCruiser. There seems to be almost no information about how it works and how to test it. There are bits and pieces but nothing that stands out as a one stop knowledge base.

Thanks. Great to hear that it helped.

Thanks. Doing the job yourself saves you around $1000 plus you have learnt something new. Happy to help. I've got to get off my ass and make some new videos. Haha.

@@GrouseGarage thanks it's nice to get the feedback. Especially positive feedback.

Glad to help out. Thanks for the feedback.

Yes. That so true. Make sure you read the other comments. Sometimes people have added some great info as well. Have fun saving some money and doing it yourself. I always have a chair set up so I can sit and think while I work now. It usually makes the job a bit longer but way more relaxing. Cheers

Yes I think there are some models that have clamp style on the ball joints but they are easier to undo. Just take your time and if you do one side at a time you always have reference to look at if things are hard to work out.

Socket or short piece of pipe that just fit the metal outside edge of the bushing on the side you want to push from and on the other side a socket or bit of pipe that is where than the edge of the bushing. Then a fine thread bolt through the middle. When you tighten the bolt it will push out the bushing . You may have to put tension on the boot then hit the end with a hammer. The next option is power hacksaw the inner bush. Cut it the rubber and the using a pencil grinder or hand hacksaw partly cut the outer bush until it relieves the tension between it and the main part. You can then chisel it out easily. If you don't plan to keep the car for a long time then eBay sells complete arms with bushings cheaply. They will last at least a cult of years.

@@lynpatnat Ended up putting a hacksaw cut in the metal bush casing and bashing it out with a hammer, next day went and bought a shop press for future endeavours for instance the ball joints

If you are still young then you will get good use out of a shop press. The price of tools now compared to labour means it's almost always worth buying the tools. One job don't by yourself often pays for the tool. Cheers to empowering the average guy.

Partly cutting through the outside metel of the bushing makes it much easier to get an edge of a chisel under it. I used to reshape and sharpen grade 8 bolt to make a specific chisel for that purpose sometimes if I was doing a lot of the same thing. I used to have to do a lot of truck brake anchor pin bushings when I was about 20.

Thank you. I hope it has helped you. That's why I post the videos. Cheers.

Probably not needed. The control rods only control the camber and when they are fully flogged a bit of caster. Once you replace them out would be back in place. Ok some models there is an adjustment for camber but they come out of the factory good enough so most are not adjustable. The only adjustment your have is the tow in/out. You don't adjust the tie rods so they should be ok. I checked on few cars are to see if they needed caster/camber alignment and they were always spot on. The camber can be adjusted with the washer shims but as long as the caster bushes are replaced or on good condition.... And as long as you place the large washers back where they came from then I see no reason to adjust anything. Just keep an eye on the tyre wear and as long as the car tracks down the road correctly I wouldn't worry. The next time your get tires get it done then. If you have had to do this job your tires will need replacing soon anyway.

I don't know the settings. I just know what feels right. I would have to look them up. Torque settings became more of a issue as litigation became more common. 40 years ago we just learnt the feel out what was right.

Ebay. Just wait for the right price or a discount. Timing can make a big difference to the price. Google may bring up a good price too.

Generally Commodores need this done by about 200000km. Our Commodore VX 2001 is just about to hit 500000km. The heads have never been off. It doesn't use oil but is a bit rumbly on the bottom end when it's cold. No knocks just a bit rumbly. It does feel tired but drives smooth. Even the transmission hasn't had any work done to it. All that and it's now going up in value. Haha.

You are probably right but the car is getting old so if parts last for a few years in ok with that. I've got the old ones so if I need to do them again I would press it the old bushings and press in New ones.

I can't remember the brand. Just look for ones that offer a 2 year warranty. I'm sure you would struggle to get the warranty as you would have to pay to return them but it just it suggests the quality is good. We hadn't had any problems with the parts we have fitted and some are well over 5 years old. Maybe aftermarket parts are but as good as genuine but often they are just as good.