The driveway is 10 by 40 plus flares on both sides. It was formed with 2 by 4s and 1 by 4s. Cost was $2,700 (Materials and Labor) the upgraded version would have been $3,200 for a 12 by 40.
@@thibautking that's a good question, because that's what I was wondering too. For me just to show up is $500 plus $85 an hour to operate my heavy I hate really do overs equipment It seems 2700 is inexpensive for lack of a better word. I'm speculating because he didn't use rebar and elevators for that long of a driveway. Cracked driveways work on my nerves and I hate re-do-overs. However he is 100% correct about location, location, location.
Ok I would use a compacted gravel base ,wire mesh /rebar "Whether you pour concrete for a walkway or patio, a strong gravel base is required . Gravel is especially important in clay soil because it doesn't drain well, which results in water pooling under the concrete slab and slowly eroding the soil as it finally drains."
Love how you take every detail into consideration when building the home, be inside the home or outside, true professional craftsman ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
House came along fantastically Bud. I have so much respect for what you do & the approach you take to home building. Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!!
Hello Craftsman - the house is the bomb - thanx 4 sharing so much and for being so considerate & conscientious - the lady is getting a well-built & beautiful home. Sorry about the price gouging (lumber, concrete, etc). Question: why so little rebar and crack control lines in the concrete?
$2,700 but they didn't put rebar down under the while driveway? That's a little high I think, even for 2022. That would be good if they had put down rebar under the entirety. Code where I live says you MUST have rebar in it anyways. But as long as you're happy with the job, that's what matters
Hi there. We will be doing a 100m driveway on clay soil. Do you think it will be cheaper to call in a cement truck to suply the cement or have it done with a standard cement mixer wich will take longer to complete the driveway. Tks for sharing.
I'm really excited about this channel ☺I've been wanting to do this for a long time now. Whan I first looked at container homes, however after reaching them I found stick built homes are much easier and coast effective. I'm am new to your channel but have lots of questions. I live in Seattle Washington and am thinking about building 400 to 1,000 sqf Aditional Dwelling Unit's ( ADU's) for people interested in additional income on their property 😀
Talking about research.....how did you choose this town to move to. Did you look up local building department codes on small houses. Because all the towns I'm researching have size restrictions on houses....like 1600 sq ft or larger. I'm looking to leave Colorado and their high prices. I have 250,000 liquid cash and have been in construction for 30 yrs. You are an inspiration and would love to find a community like this. What are your future plans with the cost of supplies going up...will you keep building, or will you have to raise your house prices. Sorry for all the questions...lol!
As for research I wanted milder weather (winters) and to be away from big cities with all the "noise" Yes I did a lot of homework what towns looked like from taxes to satelite photos to census data. As for future plans I will soon reveal a new project that will be a bit different. Since materials are insanely expensive and I want to keep my homes affordable, I'll have to go into holding pattern for a bit. My plan is to start a new build after New Years, after the dust settles.
7:50-8:00 per sq ft in oregon pump and gravel not included.A day finisher here is $300-$400 per pour even if your done ur in 2hrs..No grava? No acero? Mud is 129 per yard here...Cheaper in los angeles than here in oregon
Can’t agree more on the price rise. Shocked. I see rebar only at the entrance. Do we need a iron mesh all through. Also what is the psi of the cement used. Would it be cheaper if asphalt driveway is done? Great work!!!!
Don't really need the mesh, for a simple one like this, as for rebar only on the flares is all you need. You can put in mesh and rebar throughout but that would be a personal preference, more materials more labor and more $$$. As for psi 3k to 4k is usually the norm, lot had to do with your climate, just like everything else when it comes to this. Different areas different rules.
@@squeekhobby4571 Never worked with it, so I cant say from personal experience, from what i know concrete even if it cracks will last a long while, especially with our mild winters.
I like the pricing details in this episode, those numbers are accurate for us in SC too. I would of liked to see a bit more rebar in the slab though. Be sure to keep the slab wet for a few days so that it can cure properly. The installers should have hosed down the surface before the pour but hopefully the dense clay would keep the slab from drying out too fast.
I am curious what our prices will look like, the concrete mill will be taken over by a new company at the 1st of the year. Seems like every year it goes up by 10 bucks or so a yard.
i used to work for a guy in your neck of mountains --he would drill 100 ft --if no water --dynimate --got water every time .course vthat was 20 years ago
Ever do underground preperation before layin a driveway? Proper foundation work on a driveway will do wonders for its lifespan. Like the ancient roman roads.
I guess since this is the southern part of the country, you don't need any substrate? I would think to keep it from cracking like crazy, you would need to put some aggregate in first, pound it down, then pour the concrete. Or, I guess, use more metal. I'm probably wrong.
Hey MC, I have alot of catching up to do. You have been bery busy. I missed watching your channel!!! I was in the hospital & rehabilitation and now home to recover. Not covid, back surgery, Wow!, looks great. Going to go back in videos & watch what I missed. I missed your soothing voice!!!! Maybe thats what I needed to hear in the hospital!!! Peaches
Migraine Craftsman I’m a tough cookie, not me!!!! Thank you very much!!! While I was in the hospital, seriously, at different times I would get to thinking, “I wonder what part of the house you were doing!!!” WHILE I WAS LAYING THERE IN PAIN AT TIMES!!!! So, you know I missed watching you!!!!
It all depends, if you are making a drive way for heavy vehicles and that would get a lot of use then yes gravel is a plus. But for light duty on solid ground, you dont have to.
See a lot of guys commenting on the lack of rebar. I never put rebar in residential driveways. I use fiber and 6 sack cement with water reducer. However I would definitely have compacted stone under the slab. I have 38 year old driveways with no visible cracks. Also there is no way I could do that job for $2700. Concrete, stone, labor, daily operating expenses, my CTL, building permit etc are higher than $2700.
Also, when you are looking and researching what and where you may want to live. when getting info from cities and or county building depts.... only do the question and answers via e-mail. GET IT IN WRITING. I learned the hard way, over the phone and getting bad info from the building dept person, she then denied that she had ever talked to me... it was and has not been pretty dealing with her knowing she gave me bad info. And it cost me. So be careful how you research your construction project.
I can't believe you didn't have more steel. Might as well say there's none. That makes what i call flippers. In 6 or 7 years the cement breaks ,one side gets higher than the other and flips you on your ass.
For future references, I would add rebar throughout the driveway. With time it will start cracking & cause issues in the future. Spend that extra money & save your investment.
Craftsman disregard the question about the lines to control cracks (I was commenting via my phone while watching on SmartTV & didn't see the end) yet it still didn't look like there was enough rebar :) Blessings.
The only reason you want to put rebar into your driveway is to hold the joints level years after the cuts have been done. If you don’t want your cut squares to shift up and down you pay for a thick base, at least 4”. Anything less then that is just insufficient to withstand the freeze and thaw cycles.
I didn't see any wire mesh if you had it you guys didn't lift it, you need 1 inch of pitch for every 4 feet,no expansion joints at all, is your concrete 4,000 psi? I don't think so cause you have 2 guys working must be 3,500 psi, the driveway doesn't look like 40x12 it look like 70x12 feet. You need minimum 5 inches thickness not 4 inches, you don't need gravel or RCA down. $2,700 for the driveway base on 7 yards pretty cheap but you are making at least $1,300 or %60 percent the most, do not put your 2 by 4 inches wood frame as a big expense cause those wood you'll use them as many times.
I see why some would not like that but personally I didnt have an issue with it, easy to get into the house :) dont need to make a walkway like I had to do across the street.
