Cr-10 smart Discord channel where we answer all the questions about the Cr-10 smart and help you get it up and running. discord.com/invite/35XsWrgpmz?fbclid=IwAR2s4KsaMHxPTJuTUzaN8d6EQk0XYn_8y-lgOnGLRirAgbkcEV0_Uiz-4nM
Thank you for posting this, I'm currently testing your solution as we speak. If I do end up making my review for this machine, I'll make sure to include a link to this channel. I found a way to reclaim the USB connection to connect to a PC. I've posted it within one of my videos if you still need the fix for that.
@fred james I ended up doing quite a few mods to get it to work correctly. After fixing the Machine's alignment and adding manual bed levelling, it's working like a charm now. I made a lot of videos covering this machine as well.
@@HksF16 If got it working by doing this. It's worked out very good for quite a few people so far. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5tC5sK2x5QI.html
I bought one this week. But I face on issue. Hotend include two fans, one for cooling hotend(my is too noisy, please how You did your printer be so silent ?), second for a cooling printed filament. Thank you.
Thank you! Very good information. Could you show an example of your G29 use for abl? You put the G29 at the start? Do you still end with G28? For the CR-10 S Pro too, any abl print? Again, GREAT information.
Just wanted to drop by and say thanks for posting this video, we bought some of these and they work perfectly except one of them was all over the place in terms of print quality. Everything seemed fine, the bed was on properly, no wobble, the print head was on its rails fine, belts all seemed fine, but all of the prints were terrible - After watching this video I pulled the bed up and checked... missing a screw and the existing screw fell out as I lifted the bed up! The X axis was also off by 3mm, fixed that at the same time, now it's printing fantastic - Thanks!
Just a heads up, after about 3 months my X-Axis was off by about 2 mm. So I think the dual Z-Axis steppers get out of sync over prolonged usage. I heard about this with their other models as well. So seems were subject to the same issue.
I am glad I watched this. I just finished making the "Auto-level, save, home, re-enable saved level mesh" changes... Now all I need is to get the printer to actually print. I was so unhappy, even when working with the distributer/manufacturer (I was never sure which...) that I stored it. Bought an Ender 5 Pro. That puts out pretty good prints, when the nozzle doesn't clog. I have, on the CR-10 Smart, replaced the filament input/drive section (no change), the bowden tube & couplers (no change) and the complete hot end (from wires (5 connecters) to hot end & fans) (no change). At first, I could push filament through or get it to "feed" thought the front panel, but not under gcode. That stopped with the new extruder. I will be replacing the filament drive motor in a day or two, but I have low hopes there. It's funny, I looked into the original hot end and there was no light. With the replacement, I could see through it. But now nothing... The filament can be pushed through the tube (but it won't come out) and the drive motor can be seen "feed"ing and "retract"ing under front panel command, but the filament won't come out. It's too bad, too. Creality is the only manufacturer I know that puts out a printer large enough for my needs, that I could afford. But after two Creality printers, I could have maybe squeezed out enough for a large-area printer from another maker, but not now. I would never recommend Creality to anyone. Two in a row and nothing but problems.
Hey David, thanks for making the video. You mentioned that you were using Simplify 3D on your CR 10 Smart. What settings are you using? My printer arrives 9/28/2012 and I am ready to hit the ground running. I agree with you on the Creality slicer and I have had too much trouble with Cura. Simplify 3D is my favorite. Thank you!
I copied the settings from the Creality branded Cura software that came on the SD card with the printer. You can download the S3D profile I'm using from my google drive. If you use it, just remove the post processing commands from the scripting tab. I currently have a post processing script that takes a screen shot of the STL and makes a thumbnail and includes it in the GCODE. Then I have a plug-in in Octoprint that reads the thumbnail and shows it in the file list, etc. Here is the link to my profile --> drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rg2TyLBBUamUqZhykk1PTg0etnbbCzst?usp=sharing
Thank for the information! The printer is great. I was blow away with the ability to speed up a print. This thing is well thought out and well built. LOVE it! Thanks again.
Thanks for this … it’s 2am and I have been having so many issues with this bed levelling it’s a total nightmare. However I am excited to try your suggestions tomorrow after getting some sleep … I am maxed out on Creality lol. What’s really ***** me off though is they must be aware of the problems people are having but don’t seem to care, everywhere you research this machine the same problem is reported. It does feel that Creality have become somewhat complacent with there position in being one of the top manufacturers of 3D printers but I believe they need to do something about releasing products with inbuilt issues. Customers will only take so much and if people start to vote with their feet then it will be too late for Creality to try and solve the issues. As consumers we should be having an easier ride now that the technology has been refined instead it feels that with some products we are going backwards instead of forward. Apologies for my rant but thank you for your efforts.
I think their solution for bed leveling with the strain gauge as part of the print head is not good. It's so bad in fact that the new CR-10 Smart Pro has the addition of bed leveling knobs as well. I've been using on my other two 3d printers EZABL kits to do the bed leveling and they are fantastic. They really should of went with that solution versus the current one. Also, the glass beds they provide warp so easily. I purchased an additional bed so I could swap them out. I can't get anything to stick to the new bed vs. the old one. I saw people online complaining about not getting anything to stick to their beds, no I know what there talking about. It's a manufacturing issue with those glass beds.
I found this useful for my Smart Pro which has been impossible to level. The mesh is totally forgotten prior to printing anything Creality design or my own. For the amount of time I've spent working on it the extra money for a Prusa would have been worth it. Providing the Prusa isn't a hassle
I have a Prusa MK3S+ and I have the CR10 Smart Pro. The Prusa is far far better. I got the CR10 for some larger prints. It's been a NIGHTMARE. My Prusa has had 1 failed print in the same time the CR10 Smart pro has had at LEAST 20, not counting all the bed leveling test prints. I thought by getting the smart pro, everything would work well. NOOOOOPE.
@@blunt0trauma well, I think a lot my problems have been addressed with firmware updates. I haven’t done a firmware update yet because you have to take the machine apart to do it. You have to get the serial number off the board and you have to have a micro as for the touchscreen update. The printer has HUGE potential and right now, it’s printing a 16 hour print and doing it perfectly, but I swapped out the extruded and tightened the heating head bolts last night. They were loose and it was introducing air into the head causing massive stringing. So that problem is fixed. The auto mesh need leveling doesn’t hold however that is supposed to be fixed with the firmware update. I used aluminum foil to precisely level the bed because a large bed is harder to get flat. Some of the issues I had last week were the prints loading and then going right to 100% and the printer showed penny complete before even starting. Also, there currently isn’t a profile on Cura, but I use Prusa slicer which I prefer. The issue I have it that my profile sets the temperature at 245 degrees but when my point starts, the printer says 150 degrees. So every print, I have to manually put in the bed and filament temperatures. Maybe that’s fixed with the firmware update. Oh, also assembly is easy but you will want to use a machinist square to make sure the gantry supports are tightened to get the gantry at 90 degrees. I want to love this printer and really like being able to monitor prints from the app. Maybe over I do the update, it’ll be fine. To do the update, you have to have an 8gb SD card and and 8gb micro SD card. Why 8gb? I don’t know, so I have those in order to do the update. Hopefully that’s enough info for you to get the printer going reliably. Right now I still use my Prusa for most prints and the Cr-10 smart pro for larger prints.
Hi, my printer is doing auto bed leveling with each print, is there any options to stop this? also I did not manage to make it print evenly on each corner, on the test prints most of the plate is having an ok print not perfect but ok, some parts of the right top corner you can see through, meaning the bed is probably not even, I tried everything. tried to take all screws from the bed check place them back check the adjustments under the plate, the plate is not moving but it's not straight, and when printing the quality is quite bad, do you have a discord channel? or facebook?
I bought this printer one month ago and it's been a hit or miss experience on printing. Thank you for the ABL information. Have you updated the firmware again? Has Creality fixed the ABL issues?
I've upgraded the firmware to the latest available from Creality. Seems ok, really didn't notice a change. What I will say is that made the difference is adding a build surface to the glass bed. I use these -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TW738G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have no issues with first layer and adhesion.
I know this video is for a while ago, but I’ve been trying to find a solution to my CR-10 smart leveling ect. With the Gcodes, I use PLA would that make a difference? Also do I leave all the other GCodes alone and add these or are these all the Gcodes you use for that printer?Thanks so much
Great video! Are you using the original glass build plate, or a magnetic flexible plate? If the original glass build plate, what are you using for adhesion?
I was using the original glass plate. After about 6 months of use the adhesion started to go on it. I've now added a build surface that sticks to it. I'm thinking about adding a flex plate system to it like my CR-10 that I have. Here is a link to the build surface I currently stuck to the top of the glass bed and am having no issues with adhesion. www.amazon.com/dp/B073TW738G
Could you have put a G28 and M420 S1 at the very beginning of your start g code in the description so you don't have to manually home all axis before printing?
I appreciate this video a lot. Just upgraded from a Ender 3 V2 to a CR10 Smart, and I’m pretty surprised by how many issues the CR10 has versus the E3V2. Between the stringing, bed leveling difficulties, inconsistent adhesion (warped bed I suspect) and the Cloud box, I’m considering sending this one back and getting something else.
Hey Davis I am brand new to printing, I just bought the cr-10 smart. I am having trouble with my print. The Filament won’t stick to the bed it’s alike a stringy mess so I assume it’s not hot enough and the nozzle is to far away. I have no idea how to fix this issue. Please help thanks a lot
Try using a glue stick to coat your bed. Run the bed leveling and try and print again to make sure that the noozle is close enough to the bed. This seems to have worked for some people who have beds that for some reason have issues with adhesion. When the printer is printing it should be squishing the first layer of filament onto the bed. There are tons of videos out on youtube about doing a bed level. You could also get a PEI sheet for your bed which will make your prints stick very good.
Hey I have a question. My I tightened my wheels only 3 stay tight to the frame the other 3 stay extremely loose . But the bed isn’t wobbly how would you fix that or is your printer the same
Sir thank you for this video, i have added the start g-code that you mentioned below, there is one problem, first layers z offset is about 0.25 - 0.30 but as the model rises i have to raise the z about 0.60 -0.70 because the extruder motor is jamming, and nozzle is touching on the model, so i need raise the z offset.. why is this happening what am i doing wrong??
hi david i rececntly got a second hand cr10 smart , i have put new hot end and exstuder on, have issue with bed level , seen ur video really helpful only thing I did not see was a end g code, please could you help me out with that. kind ragrds scott
Thank you so much 🙏 I think you solved my issue I will let you know. Hopefully you get enough attention from RU-vid and grow your channel😉 you did a very good video 👍
Is it strictly necessary to do an autolevel routine every time before the print (it takes about 3 minutes) or with just re-enabling bed leveling with M420 S1 will do the trick?
I do a bed level and the do the M500 to save the mesh via the "terminal window" in octoprint. You can also add it to your slicer script. I do it once and that usually lasts for a few prints as I don't remove my bed, I pop the print off my build sheet. I usually redo the bed level whenever I remove the bed from my printer or if I start having adhesion properties.
Okay, just to be sure or to see if i understand this. Would it be best to put the m28 so it does the mesh before print eatch time? And if i do a auto bed level after its complete i need to do a m500 so save the settings? I have a lot of issues currently with a cr 10 smart -.-
So two different schools of thought about doing the bed level before each print. It really depends on if you take the glass bed off between prints. If you do then I highly suggest you run the G28 bed level prior to every print. If your like me and leave it on, then you can run the G28 and the M500 initially and then later as you see fit. I say later as you see fit as I've experienced my X-Axis getting off by 2mm gradually over months of printing which resulted in my bed level getting off and print quality going down. So I print several items every week. So I've gotten in the habit or bed leveling at least once a month.
Mines printing good. I had to relevel the X-Axis as after extensive use it gets off. I've also taken off the print head and tightened the lower carriage screws. Besides from that its printing well.
Thanks for the hint with the gcode. I tried this and it worked quite good but using the code keeps the screen in leveling screen mode when the print starts. So during the print i cannot access the printer menus to adjust things. Is this "normal".
Unfortunately it is a side affect of doing a bed level in the gcode as the printer by defaults to the bed leveling page. I don't have the issue with the screen being stuck in bed leveling mode as I don't do the bed leveling every time in GCODE because I don't take my bed off (See response to comment below). If you have Octoprint or any slicer that can send terminal commands you can send the G28 command and then M500 command. Then remove the G28 command from your start GCODE as an option as well.
Welp i got a cr 10 smart myself oh boi what is it a pain... Atm the adapter board broke after 2 months waiting over a month on a replacement part... Now i'm looking to fix the bed in the maintime can't get it to be stable i can keep turning the nuts it helps but never is perfect... I still have a wobble when turning again the wobble get worse turning more and more it gets better and worse and i keep sitting in that street the bed won't get good
Hi, first of all thank you for the solution. I have a question about auto leveling. Did printer save the mesh which was measured and saved during print ? For example, I print something by using cura with auto level g code, immediately after that I print another thing (maybe using prusaslicer, without auto level g code) without removing SD card from printer. Does the printer use mesh values measured at cura's print for prusa's print? Sorry for my English, I hope I was able to explain my question.
So the printer will save the mesh in memory until you power cycle the machine or do another "G29" to auto level the bed. You can use a "M500" command to save the Mesh data and a "M420 S1" to restore it before you print again. So for instance I will do a bed level about every 10 prints or 2 weeks. After I do the bed level I send a M500 and then in my start GCODE in my slicer I have the M420 S1 command to load the mesh.
The Creality slicer is just a reskinned version of Cura. I just copied the default settings from the Creality slicer into the corresponding Cura slicer settings as an export of the profile from Creality can not be imported to Cura for some reason. Then of course I also updated Start and end GCODE.
I brought a ender 3 last year and this year was looking at getting a bigger printer, was looking at a cr10 or something down that road. Then found out that they released a ender 3 max, which basically is a ender 3 only bigger and I thought perfect , I know the ender 3 really well and have lots of spare parts for it, so I brought a ender 3 max about 6 weeks ago and I love it. I think it’s the same bed size as a cr10 anyway 300x300 it’s just 340 on the x which I think the cr10 is 400 but that doesn’t worry me at all cos 99% of my prints won’t be going that high anyway. If I didn’t see the ender 3 max I might of got the cr10 smart and I’m so glad I didn’t get it with all the reviews I’ve seen, people just have one problem another with them.
Hi - I have the CR10 Smart - no problems other than needing to replace the extruder. Recently purchased the 3-Max and it was a nightmare. Never got a good print from it after doing various calibrations, etc. Spent about 10 hrs watching various RU-vidrs on it and spent about 20 hrs fiddling with it. Finally called it a day and returned it (Amazon).
just got my cr10 smart on march 4th and everytime i try to print it keeps breaaking the filament in the extruder. do you know what could be causing thhis?
The most likely cause is the plastic extruder that comes with printer. The Smart extruder breaks for most people within a month of owning it. I would replace it with a metal extruder. That is most likely the issue your having regarding filament snapping. The other reason why the filament might be breaking is if you have an issue with the hot end not being up to temperature. A way to check this is to heat up the hot end to 210 and then unlatch the plastic extruder so you can push filament thru. You should see it ooze out the nozzle at this point. Then latch close the extruder and then via the touch panel have it extruder 20 mm of filament. this way you are testing the extruders ability to push filament. My bet though its an extruder issue and you need to replace it. You can go on amazon and get one cheap.
We have a Facebook group and Discord channel with information on how to fix every problem with the Cr-10 smart. facebook.com/groups/289100326267138/?ref=share lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fdiscord.gg%2F35XsWrgpmz%3Ffbclid%3DIwAR2s4KsaMHxPTJuTUzaN8d6EQk0XYn_8y-lgOnGLRirAgbkcEV0_Uiz-4nM&h=AT1S8kJJ_Bz_xG8-fCJWxZnbwUaRJBxKUI3_jPSzGBhpj1IhQkV6UyGhqya7240f9D5DAB_9hXyMacooOXKXHDq2hQHTzAncBYpNF0ja--RHNWnrd2-jcFE3OQbJKeJHzhHy76InA4WacI8STUNU493MvB6NE__ehG079tFoz395UGAhcI0vAxwTiux7OqLdm18b6hbvdvwNtfFlcBAb8sch6gcdSyP9o4iVNS4xgr_sCqJja7XzMiRfcUJtgIHXlxw2C2zCgJbH9rYDrlaArhS6WAO0PqKpqzAJ_y14aNVC6JMCUWTmJJL1YESwAJFW44TYix8DO7IKVIpdscx0X5KApLRndEyoABghaECmIiguc9a9xPrFF4ucDyNJJly5aq5159iQY47N4DkLTw
There is a cr-10 Smart Facebook group and discord server where we answer all the questions about the Smart Printer facebook.com/groups/289100326267138/?ref=share
Hey David, thanks for the video! My friend recently bought this printer and I have been hesitating to buy this one as I've been seeing a lot of issues like you mentioned and I am not too much of an advanced user so I was rather concerned. Happy that you were able to find a fix and thanks for posting the Gcode If you do set-up Octoprint please let us know how you did it! Thanks!!
@@zombiehunter1152 I honestly get so confused with the names I thought the cr 10 line was the only line creality had of this size, "sadly" a cr10 V3 is on the way, I ended up staying away from the smart cuz it had no stock and didn't really wanna have to deal with creality cloud stuff and the ABL not working properly.. so yeah 🤣 I got it at around 330 eur so not a bad deal I guess, although looking at the ender 3 max I see it's about the same price, if you don't mind me asking, what did I miss?
@@ShimmyX well I started with a ender 3 and a ender 3 max is basically a just a bigger ender 3 so there’s no bells and whistles just bigger then a ender 3, it’s easy to work on as I know my ender 3 really well, the spare parts I have for my ender 3 fit the max and the build size is 300x300x340 which I find is perfect. I was looking at cr10’s or something like that before I found the ender 3 max but I’m so glad I brought the max over anything in the Cr range.
I'm assuming you talking about the Z-Axis belt on the top. If that is the case it might not be aligned correctly. Look at the service guide for leveling the X axis and make sure the top belt gears are both aligned on top. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-en_zS0roaqg.html
Hi David Do you still monitor these comments? If so, could you drop me your discord or something so I could pick your brain? My CR10s nozzle is crashing into the bed when auto levelling and I’ve tried most things but nothing seems to work
Here is a new issue. They assembled the heatsink reversed. No problem you might think, but it took me a long time to work out how to disassemble it because the grub screws for the heat break were on the back where I could not see them.
Peter, it seems they did it on all the CR-10 Smarts. I had to take apart the whole printer head apart as I wanted to put Capricorn tubing in the Heat Break inside the heat sink. I then mounted it correctly.
@@MakerDave007 yes but I’m talking about at the start of the print the nozzle has to know where it’s at before it starts printing so homing needs to be done if you look at his gcode g28 is placed after g29 which it shouldn’t be
