Out of 4 weber books, and various online tuners and re-sellers tutorials, no one measures plastic floats from the middle. It is always measured from the top-rear edge. This gives the greatest delta (change in distance) for the changes to the needle valve tab. Which makes changes and measurement most accurate. If you are trying to translate brass float stroke specs, measuring from the middle might be close for that specific task - yet it wouldn't translate perfectly since they aren't circular - but it isn't how one measures plastic floats. As for Specs for setting plastic floats; Plastic float specs are usually listed as these two; 12mm closed - 26mm open 12.5 to 13mm closed - 25 open. I haven't measured, but I think if you tried to set the open measurement to 26mm using the middle of the plastic float, it would be trying to drop through the bottom of the carb, lol. Some people have set plastic floats at 12mm closed and had it too rich, and ended up at about 15mm. They may have carbs with the longer pivots posts for brass floats, converted to plastic. *shrug* So one sanity check is to see if the float is pretty much parallel to the top cover edge. In my carbs I find that 26mm droop will jam on high-g corners, and something less than 24 seems to work out fine. If on really rough roads, orr-roading, or high G cars, setting droop to 1mm more than the needle valve needs to be totally open should work. A needle valve needs about 2mm to 3mm to be totally open, depending on size, so about 3.5 to 4mm travel at the needle valve tang will work. Given that it doesn't result in more than 24 mm droop.
I'm glad you clarified that plastic floats should not be measured from the center. When I saw dude do it, I thought I had been doing it wrong even though my carbs seem to work well. I use 14mm closed and 21mm open for plastic floats and 3psi with 2.5 needles on a 45 dcoe.
Thanks. The abstention best way to determine fuel level after initial adjustment is to measure fuel height with a caliper when carbs are on and full. Fuel depth has to work out to between 24 and 25 mm for best function. Measure from the shelf the main jets screw into to fuel surface. Then measure full depth. Subtract one from other and that's your fuel height This allows you to totally fine tune fuelingvrespons and similarity between dual carbs. If you flood a bit easy drop it 0.5mm. Circuit starts a bit late and no problem flooding or rich, bring it up 0.5. Most situations you will never go deeper than 25mm.
Great stuff thanks it helped alot. there was a few things, How low do the floats hang down in mm's ? I found my problem anyway, no amount of adjusting could help me there. The Brass floats were full of fuel :/ I found the leaks in the side's where the solder had split over time and drilled a small hole to drain the fuel out then soldered her back up again. works fine now :) Thanks anyway i'm sure this video has helped alot of people.
Hello from Portugal! Thank you for your vídeos. When using plastic floats on brass float covers, what are the correct levels and where to take the measure?
yes, i got the same question, i feel like the measurements are less because the arm( holding the float mounting pin) is longer so if the distance is 12mm on a longer arm the float travels further compared to a shorter arm, no? thinking of how you would swing on a swing with a shorter chain vs longer chain
I saw that different types of Dcoe.s have different fuel levels. My questions is that the level is the same, no matter the type of Dcoe, if I measure by caliper (29mm)? Thx
Hi can you help, my weber dcoe 40 (italian) leaks fuel after a hot run from the O Ring, between manifold and carb..... im running the smallest facet fuel pump so not sure it is the fuel pressure..... and its only after the engine shuts down... look forward to your thoughts
I'm not sure you mentioned the max drop for the later model (plastic float) carb. I understand that for the earlier model (brass floats) that this measurement would be 15 mm, 6.5 mm past the original 8.5 mm. For the later model 12.5-13 mm is recommended for the closed position, but what is it for fully open/dropped? Thanks.
Dear I have a problem in long right-hand turns The car loses power halfway through the turn Could it be that the float level is too low They are two 50 DCO SP No 19650.001/002 They are mounted on the right (i.e. inside bend) The float level is now 12 mm With kind regards
@@craighouston7014 @D3Sshooter 2 dagen geleden Hi, well that can be for many reasons... typical that is a sign of running out of mixture richness. I have seen it before , one goes full throttle on the straights and then gets in left or right hander, tries to accelerate after braking of course and the car hesitates or loses power. Reason not enough fuel in the floatchamber... it has been drained a lot on the straight, then the corner is hit and what is left in the fuelchamber shift out and causes a lean mixture. The main reason is a fuel pressure that is to low ( must be at all times 4 PSI ) and not enough volume ( must be about 4 Liters per minute).. All this is most of the time cause by a poor performing fuel pomp. That would be my first check...
