Thanks for the video. I like that you did it in the car as opposed to out on a stand. It's good to see it how most of us are going to try and complete the job.
@@brianbonilla9276 depending on the labour itself it will take for an amateur like me around 2 days. It took me a week because I had to wait on some extra parts which I replaced while in there
Im in the process of doing this right now on a 2000 740 after it sitting for a year+. I broke the pin that locks the flywheel to the housing and had to custom make a tool lock the crankshaft when removing the harmonic ballancer bolt (the jesus bolt) Nice slab of 3/16 steel plate long enough to reach the ac compressor 1 7/8" hole with 8 bolt holes and 1 for the index pin. I keep coming back to this vid its done so well.... but i did notice at approximately 42:00~42:10 a drip under the passenger side gap between the radiator and the ac compressor... hope you caught that!!! All this plastic on these old vehicles really likes to break easy. THANK you for sharing this vid!!!
Thanks for the no-nonsense video. I'm about to do my 2nd TCG, this time because of Vanos failure, and 10+ years of mostly troublefree driving has passed so I was watching a couple of videos to assess how many cold ones do I need ;-) lol.
this is awesome presentation, and just think all that work is because somebody did NOT do proper service at the right time,if oil and coolant is good the repair would not be needed. AWESOME JOB GLEN
Just did my intake manifold, valley pan, water pump, couple of hoses, tensioner, etc and at first I thought it was done for but it turned out to be the oil residue I didn’t clean off my intake manifold and now it’s good. Can’t wait to have to do the timing chain, I bet that’ll be fun!
This doesn’t look as bad as I was expecting. I’m planning on buying an E65 or V8 E60 and plan on doing this immediately. Thank you so much for sharing.
Glenn, you sir, are a scholar. That is the best, bar none, guides replacement video I have ever seen. Well constructed and moves fast to each dismantlement. Excellent. I feel confident to start this on my 130K 2001 540i. The only question I have, here in the UK, is will I finish the job before combustion engines are made illegal by the climate nuts.
I had a P0021 in my 01' 740i after doing a full timing guide replacement. I used the cheaper kit. As you probably already know, Bank 2 is driver side (in a LHD car). I removed and replaced the valve cover about 15 times, making small adjustments each time to the cam timing wheel/cog. Finally got this thing to work. I removed the torx in the front of the timing cover and a little at a time rotated the timing wheel, reassembled, cleared codes, started it, restarted it. If you have a P0021, you don't have to re-time it entirely (unless maybe you're off by a tooth, though not sure how you can really do that). I put a long punch through the timing hole (torx bolt hole in upper timing cover) and my correct timing was just on the right margin of the hole in the timing wheel. So, in other words, the punch was just right of center of the hole in the timing wheel.
Hi, probably one of the best instuctual videos on RU-vid, thanks for taking the time to do this,...if your ever in Scotland I've got work for you :)...I wish you well for 2020...
Excellent Job Glenn, glad to see a very detailed explanation, looking forward to watching this several times as I do this job to my 2004 HSE I picked up for $2000.00 Not looking forward to doing this job but gotta do what we gotta do! Thanks for all the great tips!!
I've also gotten an L322 with the M62 engine. The guides are really bad and currently I am in process of replacing the guides. I hope to be finished by the next 5 days as I am only able to put 30 minutes to 2 hours each day.
Thank you Jesus...I got my 2001 740i done. replaced everything in there new. My tech did not lose a single bolt/nut. I mostly cleaned everything as it was taken apart. I totally appreciate the effort needed to complete this job. I finished the job by having my valve covers powder coated black. The car runs beautifully. 110,000 miles......Oh, i forgot to mention the water pump was changed at 70,000-miles.and that tech was good too, but he never told me he replaced the vanos and timing chain as well. My paranoia was unfounded. There was never a problem about to happen. Now I am good for 100,000-more miles. Cosmos black, Zionville radiator, all new ...everything.I spent approximately $5,000 for all this, and the car is concourse condition. It goes with my second car...a 2015 Porsche, Cayman GTS, color white.....just sayin...;-)
great video. Alot of work. This is one of those things were you are so involved in the engine where do u stop replacing stuff lol.. seriously though esp with a German engine i would want to keep replacing parts since im in there already..
If you are talking about the pulley there are just 6 bolts and the pulley will just fall off. If you are talking about the center bolt this is hard to get off. What I do is put the engine in top gear pull the break as hard as you can and put the TDC pin in the flywheel. If the car still moves you can put blocks under the tires. I have a 2 foot long breaker bar then I put a pipe on it and pull, it will break loose. After you take the bolt out the center hub will just pull off. BMW makes a crankshaft holder you can buy. I have heard you can break the pin or damage the flywheel doing it my way but I have never had a problem this way. I am using about 4 foot of bar to get the bolt out, and yes I have broke breaker bars and sockets.
Do you have to do the timing if you never touched the vanos at all. All I did was replace the guides and the big chain. Thanks for a very good DIY video!
Yes, if any of those parts are removed the timing will move and have to be reset. It is the cam that moves and the valves will not open and close at the right time.
Im doing mine as we speak on my 740. Had a 540i too i never time the vanos or use a new chain and ive put 30 thousand kms. On it only reason for redo is mil light is on. Im not removing the bittom cover either i lock the cams lift the chain and put the chain back on the vanos gears
i just had the timing jump on me with a new guide but a faulty tensioner. just a heads up that an intact guide does not guarantee safety if ur tensioner is bad
Really appreciate you doing this. I am currently looking to purchase an E38 so this is quite helpful. Would you be able to provide of list of tools needed to handle this job?
Thank you kind sir. I will do as you suggest. I have owned e39's for awhile. I am familiar with this problem in the past and through the internet. I was an engineer before medicine. I'm sure I could come up with a retrofit fix for these. The question is whether or not these engines are too old to invest $30k to $40k to get the products to sell? Do you think there would still be a demand in the next 10 years? It actually won't be that hard.
first of all thanks for taking your time to explain this and I Love the video! but at 18:35 you had a crankshaft bolt in the engine and at 18:36 it was gone! what did you use to take it off? a lot of people forget this part but it is the most important part!
You are right I never caught that point. It must have got accidentally cut out. That bolt is very hard to get off. Thay make a crankshaft holder or what I do is, set the car on the ground and put it in top gear "6 or 5" with the e-brake on and pin in the flywheel and use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe to break it loose.
This is my dream Car and know I feel like I can buy one thank you sir I just wish someone could help me Find the custom tool I need for the job for a good price
I have a question and i hope you’ll answer it. My chain was loose enough to get it of the engine without loosening the star bit sprockets you talk about around 21:20. I can put it back on without touching the star bit sprockets aswell. Is this a bad idea/is this possible? Or do i mess up the timing if i do it this way?
There is a chain tensioner in the right (passenger in the US) side chain cover. This holds the chain tight. The chain has to be tight to set the timing. You should watch the video again. To see it, I used a socket to hold the chain tight.
Glenn 3505 first i want to thank you for the reply. I get what you’re saying but i could remove my chain from the camshafts without loosening the left thread star bit screw and i can but it back on there without loosening those screws. Can i do the job this way or do need to loosen the star bits that are on the vanos things/ the camshafts?
Sorry I do not have a video on that. But if it is leaking in the front you can get to it by removing the bottom chain cover. then use form-a-gasket on it.
Hi Glenn,how easy is it or I mean difficult to remove cylinder heads with engine in situ on an E38 740i M62 V8. I have head gasket failure. Thanks in advance.
Awesome video. I seen some people replace the tensioner as well. I'm taking it apart today. Is there a way to test the tensioner to make sure it's okay?
Very helpful video. However you keep saying "Vios" when referring to the VANOS. I'm probably not to first to mention it. But I didn't feel like looking through all 280+ comments for it.
Glenn I have a 2001 740il which needs to replaced the valve covers gaskets along with timing chain gasket, I watched you video and I love it but unfortunately I don't have none of those tools to do the job myself the question is where you located at and can you do that type of job for me? If you're in California. I'm in Bakersfield CA. Thank you very much and great video...
Hey, Glenn. Thanks for the information. This and your water pump replacement video got me on the right track. I'm now trying to locate the tool you used to time the engine so I can get my engine timed. What is it called?
If you google BMW 4.4, 540 or 740 Timing Tool Kit a lot will come up. If you think you will only be doing this 1 or 2 times a low cost one will work fine.
Great Video Glenn. I'm performing a timing chain procedure on a M62 as well. I have a question regarding aligning the exhaust and intake shaft shaft at TDC with the Crankshaft. Mine is off because, my first procedure was trying to replace the main tensioner. However, one good thing is that I'm able to make a complete rotation by turning the crankshaft. So, there is no head damage. I'm have purchased the vans tool kit. My question is what do i loosen or remove to align the exhaust and intake cams in agreement with the Crankshaft. Can you explain or provide some insight into this procedure?
You need to loosen both the intake and exhaust cam gears ( clockwise to loosen ) . Then put the cam alignment tool on. Then set everything. Watch the video again it is much easier to see how. It will help you understand.
Hi Glenn, great tutorial, I have a 1998 540i with the M62 (Non-Vanos) motor, I bought it at 96,000 miles. It always had a slight tick, which I assumed were lifter related. I changed the oil regular always used 100% Synthetic oil. At 115,000 miles it developed a very loud disturbing ticking, as per research I surmised that it was the timing chain guides or the hydraulic lifters were sticking or starving for oil. However, my oil levels were where they should be. I thought it might be the bolts had backed out of the oil pump. I added 3/4 bottle of Sea Foam to crankcase (hoping to clean lifters) removed vacuum line from after MAF sensor and poured Seafoam in. I then revved engine to 2,000 rpms for several minutes. After about 60 miles, I then drained the oil, (About 8 Quarts) removed oil pan, found broken pieces of Timing Chain Guide in Oil Pan, and what appeared to be aluminum shavings, Oil Pump was immovable, so bolts must be tight, Oil Pump Chain had about 10 mm of slack in it. I then put in about 7 quarts of 100% synthetic oil and topped off with 1 quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. The noise was still there, initially on startup, would go away and return once engine was warm. I’m doing a Timing Chain Guide Job on her, I intend to replace the following: Water Pump (with a metal impellor), Timing Chain Guides, Oil Separator Valve (OSV) V20-1518, Crankcase Vent Valve Diaphragm, Timing Chain Tensioner, Valve Cover Gaskets & Grommets, I may also replace the Main Timing Chain (In Case Old one stretched). This vehicle does not leak any oil with the exception of the Valve Cover Gasket which leaks into the Spark Plug Channel. I have replaced all ignition coils & spark plugs. I’m assuming bare bones BMW tools to be: G.A.S. BMW M62tu Master Cam Timing Tools DIY (Includes TDC flywheel lock pin) $75 Rental, Valve Cover Alignment Tool, Timing Chain Tensioner Stretch Trestle V8 M62 (From Bentley Manual), Fan Clutch Tool. Can I do this job WITHOUT any of the tools listed above?
Sounds like you have what you need. You will need a big breaker bar or piece of pipe to break the crank shaft pulley center bolt loose. 115,000 miles is not a lot of miles but sometimes age plays a role in how often you need to replace the timing chain guides.
@@Glennfix I did note that you mentioned that you were able to use a socket instead of the Timing Chain Tensioner Stretch Trestle, these tools are expensive, I'll try that. I've already experienced the exploding fan dilemma, replaced that, fortunately I was able to get a replacement hood in the exact same color used for $45. After the timing chain project, I'm doing the front bushings, for shimmy.
Hey Glenn I followed your steps and my truck was running good for like three months now I have a p1300 on 1-4 side at first it was the 5-8 side I am sure I have to do everything all over again but this time my 1-4 cam will not stay locked in place 😞 it seems to be spring loaded?
Is it normal for the cams to rotate after the timing and cam sensor wheels are set and then the blocks removed? After I set the timing and cam sensor (using the right tools) I removed the cam blocks and the intake cams rotated a little like the valve springs pushed against the cam lobes. Was just hoping you are monitoring this and can confirm they do or shouldnt rotate (90Ftlbs on cam sprockets, 35Ftlbs on cam sensor nut)
Glenn - couple of questions. 1. I am a bit confused about the pin for TDC. Do I need to leave the harmonic balancer off after I place the pin? I don't see how removing the harmonic balancer first changes anything. Also, I'm struggling with removing the harmonic balancer. I've removed the bolts around it but it won't budge. Any ideas? Do I need a special puller?
A good question was asked on a different video I thought I would re-post it here so others could read. The question (What code were you getting for the intermittent CEL?) I am all most sure it was coming from the OSCV valve (Oil Separator Crankcase Vent Valve) that go's behind one of the timing guide. The code would come up as small emission leak. I was thinking gas cap, or something to do with one of the emission lines. If it was one of the emission lines it could be hard to find. That is why I did not mess with it to much because it would come on and then go off, it stayed off about 90% of the time.
Great video! My car threw up the "stop engine oil pres low" on its info line. Haven't had the chance to put it up yet, but what are the chances that the oil pump chain is loose on an M62TU? 7, ~130k miles, 16yo, third owner, pretty sure never been done.
FCP Euro has one www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pcv-oil-separator-540-740-11151705272oe?ads_cmpid=352576039&ads_adid=22972407319&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85218275839&ads_targetid=aud-1020666087795:pla-327620319311&ttv=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAq5meBhCyARIsAJrtdr5135yGM3Sulzg-QXR5pV1CjSEcZqOpYRcozWuUTpOKRVg_Fv54JSgaAkHgEALw_wcB#fitment
So exactly how do you keep the chain tight while removing your socket and putting on the cover and installing that bolt or whatever that keeps the chain right
The chain will sag but it will not change timing. Just lift the chain to go inside the cover and when you put the chain tensioner in the chain will tighten back up.
Here's a question. With the chain guides worn right out, and major slack in the chain, will that allow enough timing discrepancy to get valve to piston contact.
Hello. Really enjoy your BMW DIY videos. Thanks for putting many together. I have a question, I started doing my chain guides on my 2000 540i M62TU ordered all the parts need including the timing tools. I got the new guides on (I just replace the main guided not the shoe guides on top) and the timing tool tensioner. I didn't touch Vanos sprockets throughout the process because I was just replacing the main guides. At that point I decide to remove the cam locks and crank pin to hand rotate the engine to check my work and it skipped tooth smh. Causing the driver side cams to rotate, but not the passenger side. My question. Is there an easy way to fix this? I rotated back to top dead, But the cams on both sides are clearly not positioned correctly. Any help would be graciously accepted. Thanks again
You can move the cams with the chain off. But be careful not to push on a valve. If you fell resistance stop and move the the crank a little until the cam moves free. Once you have the cams in the right place you can put the crank in TDC.
I had a 2001 740 at least you can work on them. I have a 2014 750li now and they are very hard to work on. I also have a 1999 540 6 speed ( its the one in the video ) I am thinking about selling.
You should leave all the timing tools on and the chain should stay in place then you just push the chain in and put the timing chain cover back on. Once the timing chain cover is back on you can put the chain tensioner back on.
Great video very detailed and lots of help! i do jave a question though, What were the cost of all the parts that you had to replace, and what parts did you have to purchase. I'm playing on doing mine myself and want to know the primary parts i need to get the job done
Some of the cost depends, to buy the tools you need can be about $200.00 - $600.00. if you don't do this everyday a low cost set will do. Mine are low cost I have used them about 7-8 times and they starting to show wear. It is easy to buy a timing chain kit with everything you need. Around $500.00 with out the chains, if you want to put new chains on it will cost a little more. just google (BMW timing chain guide kit for sale)
If you were driving and the chain guides came apart there are probably bent valves. You can see from the top of the engine. If the cam is in a position where it is not pushing down on the valve it should be tight against the cam. If it is bent there will be a gap from the cam to the valve. You can turn over the engine by hand and check all the valves. If you have resistance don't force it. If the engine won't turn over you may have to take the cams off ( the timing is off) then you can see if all the valves come all the way out, if they are bent they won't come all the way out.
I have a question Glenn where did you get the timing kit with all 3 pieces in aluminum? thank you i appreciate your help. really informative video will be doing mine soon.
I got it on E-bay, I forget what seller. If you get all 3 in aluminum, looking at the engine the one on the right has a pin that it sits on you need to take out the pin and put a bolt in it's place. A lot of the replacement guides are all aluminum.
I just completed the timing procedure and it runs but it sounds like it had a knock. Also the code is reading bank 1 intake over advance. I know the intake cam shifted slightly when I removed the blocks. So you think that is the issue? Others have suggested a position sensor
I would Check the timing, I know it is a pain but it is easy to get a little off. I have gone back and reset the timing more then once. If you put the TDC pin in and pull the valve covers you can put the timing blocks on and check for continuity. If you don't have continuity then take the rest of the top apart and reset the timing.
I've got a chance to get one that had this done but he thinks he's one tooth off on right bank, is it a time bomb running like that? Seems to run decent with cel on, I haven't look real hard into it but your video is real informative, what would you suggest?
If the timing is off even a little it will idle bad when you drive it it will smooth out some. If it is off a lot you can damage engine but will run horrible. the phrase (off one tooth ) does not work with BMW engines. The top cam gears turn to set the timing so as long as the bottom is at top dead center it does not matter where you start with the chain. If someone says it is off one tooth it means they don't know. They would say "the timing is off". I would use a coed reader to see what it says. I buy things like this but I always look at the worst case, Like it will need another engine or a engine rebuild that way I wont be disappointed.
Guy said he thinks, it's got the rattle when it starts but it does smooth out, hasn't ran in couple months and seemed like it didn't lack any power at all, I can get it real cheap and he's fixed a lot of cosmetic stuff in the car, I was hoping it would last a few months being so old but it was well cared for the most part, I'm gonna put good gas in it and change the oil, he said it threw an out of time code and said it was possible that it was cam position sensor, I'm debating on tearing it down but don't really have the time
Glenn, quick question - I broke a bolt on the lower timing cover while doing water pump, it will not come out. Can I remove lower cover only to get bolt out, or do I need to take off everything above too? I don't need my guides done, etc. just need to remove the lower cover if possible. Thanks
You probably have to take everything apart. The top covers push down on the bottom cover. You also have to take the lower oil pan off to get to the bolts on the bottom. If you never took the lower cover off, I would just leave it and see what happens (If it is just one bolt). Usually, you have to use a small amount of pressure to pry the cover off. It should be sealed and will probably be okay, but there is always a chance it will leak.
Glen, I have BMW E70 4.8 2007 , I need to replace the headgasket, so is it the only way to remove the valve head is to remove the timing chain first? Look like we have to do that. It doubles up the work (including lower timing cover and crankshaft wheel) . Just need your confirmation, thanks!
You do not have to remove the lower timing cover to remove the head. BUT, you have to be careful not to let the chain fall in side the lower cover ( tie it up ). Also if the timing guides have a lot of miles on them I would just replace them, you are half way there. I don't know what is wrong with your head gasket but I have had head gasket with a antifreeze leak and used a head gasket sealer that stopped the leak and lasted many miles. I sold the car but never had a problem as long as I owned it
I have took out everything from my car. Only crank bolt left. There is any possibility and if you live close to VA you can help me take out the crank pully and set the timing only I will do the rest of the worl? Willing to pay for the service. Please let me know. Thanks
@@Glennfix Sir, I do have what you have suggested! Do I need any special tool to hold the pully or something. I wish if you would have shown the time you are recording this video, it would become beneficial for all of us. Thanks
My camshafts are our of alignment with tdc. How do I rotate the cams individually to get the cylinder numbers facing up. When I turned the crank for tdc the cams didn’t face up. I tried another full rotation but the chain was to loose and only the crank rotated.
You can turn them with the bolt on the cam gear. You just have to be careful, if you feel resistance stop you could be hitting a piston. If it feels like it is hitting a piston move the crankshaft so the pistons are out of the way. What you are saying happens when the chain guides break or something comes completely loose. You should check and make sure you don't have bent valves. If you look at the top of the valves you should be able to see if they have space in-between the lifter. They should be tight to the lifter when they are closed.
Usually if the timing is off the engine will idle rough. I would check some other things first. Make sure your Camshaft Position Actuator is clean (take out and use brake cleaner them) and the wires are good, it is possible if your wiring harnessed is taking apart to get the plugs switched sense they both are close together. One other thing the oil, I have heard of people having this code when they use the wrong oil. If it is to thick it will not flow good. Use the oil BMW recommends for your car. If all this fails you can take the valve covers off and put your TDC pin back in and timing blocks on, then check for continuity, if you have continuity the timing is set right if not, well. Don't hate yourself too much I have done more than 1 two times.
I could tell most when I first started the engine it would rattle, sounds like a knock. It would settle down once the car ran a little. When it idle it would sound like it had a knock. But if you listen close you could tell it was coming from the front of the engine.
Glenn 3505 was this noise like a rattle pingy noise? Maybe the chains are loose? How long do you think I have at this point before it breaks down it’s my money maker
the "E" on the camshaft doesnt mean exhaust like he said, its a german abbreviation for "Ein" for "In" and theres an "A" on the other camshaft which stands for "Aus" which is german for "Out" so the "E" is intake camshaft
did this engine have a knocking sound when you removed the oil cap? My x5 is making a noise with the cap off and has a dead cylinder or bad misfire idling or under load. any thoughts?
Sounds like you have something else going on. But it is possible it is the timing chain. If it is bad enough the timing will be off and it could cause a misfire. If it is that bad to cause a misfire you can take the oil pan off and you will see pieces of the timing chain in the pan. If the pan is clean it is something different.
Nice work and vid, I’m a noob to this engine do you think I can get this done with no experience on this engine just following you’re video or is that me being heroic ?
That depends on how comfortable you feel about working on cars. The worst part about this job is the timing. Getting it right the first time, timing tools are a must. The rest is straight forward. BMW engine is the only engine like this. There is a first time for everything. Double and triple check the timing. It is a lot of work taking it back apart to reset the timing. I have had to do this before you will be cussing. After you set the timing turn the engine over by hand a couple of times and check it again.
Glenn 3505 Thanks for the info. I’m not bad on cars generally just new to the v8. Looks a bit daunting. The timing Part I think I will get assistance with I’m not to confident there. Il use this vid as a guide for everything else it’s spot on. 👍🏼
