Duramax Diesel - Broken Glow Plug Removal - Old School Mechanic's Tricks FTW! 

I wish I found this comment about 8 months ago but now I know thank you.

Nice advice, must remember this!

Tried this with TIG welding but I'm still a noob. With TIG it's more challenging to melt the bolt into the relatively thin washer. That said some of the aluminum spindle housings I was trying to remove bolts from actually broke apart once I was finally able to get one out. Aluminum + steel sucks, galvanic corrosion and all that. I recently installed a TTY bolt on my jetta using marine grade anti sieze(no metal particles) after having to grind the ear off the old one using a carbide burr and die grinder. Was then able to get the bolt out of the subframe no problemo with some very small crescent pliers. (They dig in really well.) Basically torqued it dry, removed it, lubricated it, reinstalled to the torque point that I marked with a paint pen, then yielded it. FWIW I read about 90% of the original torque to the same point, not exactly what I read(some claim 75% when lubricated) but was at the low side of the range for my wrench.

That’s a good trick, I’m looking forward (except for the fact I’ll have a broken bolt) to trying it

Yeah..It just depends on the size of your bolt really. If it's too small, it's hard to get a good weld on it, no matter what you do; but the washer does make since, because you can get a much better welding angle, not having to stab it in there virtually straight up and down.

Heh. That happens!

Heh, yes, me too. My welding usually involves things being welded to everything EXCEPT the thing I'm actually trying to weld to. Lol.

it's near impossible to accidentally weld steel wire to aluminum, let alone a giant chunk ( like the head) it may spark and sputter little holes in it though LOL

Thanks 👍

Ya bud good on you. I been there but just with bolts. Glow plug totally different ballgame you took it to another level yo

I speak the truth

Lol...

Why she did not try it ?

Thanks 👍

I was clutching my cereal bowl with a full on lean into the screen. 👍

I think the best way to sum up the difference is that a real mechanic knows to do other things than sort wrenches in a tool box. They also generally have a very specific path towards a solution. Most of the classic, garage wrench mechanics i associate with are very "cut the bullshit" path oriented guys. On the other hand, you can spot the ones you want to avoid by a mile, when they start putting sugar in discussions, telling you someone did this or that, looking at your pocket before looking at your problem type of person.

I dunno. I tried changing parts. But it didn't go well.

@@WatchWesWork I left the last one I snapped in place. I figured that 3 out of 4 a direct injection engine would be good enough. It's pretty rare that we see anything worse than -5c in England.

@@WatchWesWork You're a true mechanic! Others I've seen just order parts and replace anything without proper troubleshooting. As a Army diesel mechanic my Master Sergeant would always stress trouble shooting first before ordering.

No kidding after almost 30years in shops no ticket I'm proud to call myself a mechanic not a tech far as I'm concerned most of those guys are "bolter on of parts" amazing how many times their 25k code reader can't tell them what my 10 buck vacum gauge tells me. But wow what a good reader can tell you amazing.

The gasp of relief. I mean, everyone's been there. (Bad words were said.)

Good to know I'm on the right track!

That washer trick is actually often a lifesaver, its much easier to get a strong weld to the washer, than when youre welding inside a nut, where the welding material has nowhere to go, and you often wont get enough heat into the weld.

To get the weld really strong, you can even weld a bolt to the washer instead of a nut, so you can lay down a stronger weld from the outside, instead of inside a nut.

Jesper Schmidt thanks, great advice !!!

Can you use a torch to heat up the surrounding aluminum/plug then quench the plug to thermally shock it?

Thanks 👍

Behind the scenes cursing and throwing wrenches. I know I do.

In this business the mechanic is governed by the flat rate manual (for a good reason it keeps the shysters from gouging the customer in unfounded over charging) but it is a bane for the mechanic because every repair is not perfect and the conditions vary contributing to the difficulty and increased time to do the repair (of which the system short changes the mechanic). We have the same system here in transportation as the loads are paid on a flat rate mileage system that prevents the customer from being overcharge by shysters who are padding the miles. Unfortunately those who do shoddy repairs to beat or meet the flat rate manual cause a lot of problems for a repair shop. Friend of mine hired a guy in his shop and the fellow was experienced in his work. He was fast (we called him R2D2) and he made good money, but after he left his comebacks started coming back and of course R2D2 flew the coop and my buddy's shop was still there and guess who the customer was looking at wanting warranty work, Seems as though R2D2 left out about half the fasteners on a job and half of those were loose. It is ok for mechanics to meet or beat the flat rate and many have legitimate time saving procedures to do so, but when you sacrifice quality of work just to get paid what the job pays then we have problems with the reputation of auto and truck mechanics. I like Watching Wes Work is although he knows he is going to lose his ass on the labor time, he still takes the time to fix the problem properly. As you can see in his videos he gets a lot of repeat business from his customers and takes care of them. A shop like that is one that people can trust. It was a sad situation for R2D2 as he was a good knowledgeable mechanic but he got contaminated by the system.

mild steel doesnt harden, and it doesnt absorb carbon either so oil or water makes no difference, it may cool it quick enough to introduce unwanted tensions but its not going to make it any harder or brittle than just letting it air cool your philosophy will apply just not with mild steel like er70s wire tends to be

Mild steel does harden, the grain can crystalise under fast quenching and it does uptake carbon.

I was about to say that too then saw your comment. Was thinking to myself, "why he isn't letting it cool all the way is beyond me."

If I recall from other videos, he sometimes uses the penetrating oil while hot so the oil penetrates wicks into the threads deeper rather than it being an actual quenching action, even though it would act as a quench as well.

Gotta love youutube comments... one guy says do this other guy says no way dont work like that.. all the time lol I know if you heat up a stuck bolt to cherry hot & hit it with water till it dont sizzle it will come out almost the first time, everytime

I almost started blowing on the flame after he finished welding 😂

It really didn't take that long. About an hour to get it out including disassembly.

It's not the time, but the hassle imo that is the most frustrating

Made by Mayhew.

Made me laugh

Very true!

He should have to be fair about it.

@@shaneharrison4775 the dealer was just gonig to pick it up and i would have to drive it back , but we were in a middle of rear scraper blade edge rebuild and it was the last week of my Pandemic Vacation .

Went though my 2130 PDF parts manual and the o-ring part number for the rocks shaft cover 3 point control valve oil feed is located on the page for the transmission case not along side the gasket for the rockshaft cover

Weld a blob onto the end of that thing. Shoot the PB Blaster behind it-thermal shock the threads to loosen it. No nut needed-a big and solid enough blob, and you can grind flats on it to use a wrench on. BTDT.

Those are easy unless it's a van. The 6.0 are not bad either, just plan on destroying the harness.

Hmm. I need to get something. Why would they make an air drill without a variable trigger?

Man I was cringing when he was doing the "easy" out too. Get some left handed drill bits. I've found a lot of times a lefty bit backs it out

@@WatchWesWork I’ve got no answer for that but I know mine doesn’t have one either but I think it has 2-3 speeds you can select like an impact

We call them "easy off" because they break off easy ....

@@WatchWesWork www.google.com/shopping/product/4695524771539635225?q=brass+air+line+flow+valve&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=sivn&prds=eto:1059968121598116711_0,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1

Interesting point. I suppose that if you drill out the threads in the nut then you get to unplated steel?

Book time is 1 hour for the whole left side!

@@WatchWesWork this is something i've always wondered, ¿where does the "book time" come from?, i've seen it mentioned all across automotive channels but i can't understand what "book" they're talking about, is it the official dealer time for the job?, or is there a website that tells you that for every brand? what is it?

@@gglovato "what "book" they're talking about, is it the official dealer time for the job?" Yes, mechanics are usually paid on piece work according to book time, rather than hourly. If you're quick, have done it before, have all the special tools, you can beat the time and "make money"; If it takes longer you get paid the same... there is usually a broken bolt clause that puts them on hourly after that.

@@gglovato I presume they mean on a perfectly clean, never driven vehicle. Even that's iffy.

@@gglovato "Book time" is established by the manufacturer, however all such times are usually established on VERY low mileage vehicles.

👍👍👍

I've tried that before. It's works well for things that are broken flush. But it doesn't seem to help when they are sticking out.

I hear that!