I restored my Suzuki gt750 fuel tank with this stuff, the inside was particularly crusty because of stale fuel, so some pink bike cleaner & hot water,swung it around like a madman, cleaned it out, filled to the brim with evaporust, a few days later it was like it had just left the Suzuki factory, I found it works well when warm to hot
Yes I concur with the comment on citric acid. Usually available from health food shops. Mix crystals in water. Cheap enough to make up a big plastic drum, tub or tray Use it over and over by dipping in everything like car panels. They come out looking like they’ve been sand blasted.
If you had used an Ultrasonic cleaner, in just minutes it would have cleaned even better!! I also use Simply Green for Carburetors with the Temp at 285° F.
Works even better if you lightly brush the loose rust before putting items in the solution. Also rinse and dry after removal. Light coat of oil not a bad idea. Now clean the rubber handles with a dab of Goop or similar hand cleaner. I use the rust remover all the time. Non toxic and does not burn skin, but stains a bit.
Nice review, yeah evapo-rust is very good and getting more famous by every youtube video. Why not try/review DEOX-C? It's British, in a granule form (Looks like coarse sea salt) comes in a nice, sturdy plastic jar. you dissolve it in a warm water and it's as good as this product, if not, even better because you can get the mixture stronger or weaker depending on how rusty the workpiece is and it's more cost effective.
I used evapo-rust to remove very heavy rust from an old rocker box cover. Like you I was amazed at the job it did. Not saying it's the only way to remove rust, but it does work.
Cold tea removes rust or converts it, plus gas used to sell a tin of what was basically dried tea in a tin to which you added water then applied to the rust. It worked fairly well, just let it dry and then brush it off.
I remember that - it was Plus Gas formula 'E' { formula 'A' is the penetrating fluid for helping to ease rusted bolts and nuts} and as you say, it was a powder to which you added water.
I can't belive how much of a good job it does I'm very tempted to get some for my nuts and bolts and small peices on stationary engines when I do em up also does the plug undo now?
I sometimes run it warm in an ultrasonic cleaner and its excellent. Make sure anything you want ro derust is free from oil or grease as that stops it getting to work. On higher carbon ateels it seems to often blacken the surface if left for a long period. I use a dewatering oil to soak items in after a quick dry as you can almost watch the flash rust appear on unprotected fresh steel. Pricing seems a bit random, you can shop around and get it at a reasonable price. Car boot tools have never looked so good!
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. So the view in the comments is save your money and use household items like vinegar and citric acid crystals. I've had good results with reverse electrolysis myself.
I must try that. Yes citric acid works just aswell but it also eats away at the base metal. This stuff is PH neutral. But you can make similar stuff very cheaply with other chemicals.
I was told that a certain "high quality" expensive rust remover (forgot its name) was the best thing since sliced bread, when I looked into it's ingredients it was just citric acid crystals and a bit of surfactant! I got some citric acid crystals and mixed it with water and it did a magnificent job and cost less than £2! Just don't leave high carbon steel in it very long.
This stuff isn't acidic or alkaline so it doesn't eat the metal, it only acts on the rust. I've use phosphoric and citric acid too, but this stuff beats them hands down.
I'm wondering if you've ever tried spraying it on a car frame. It seems like most of the reviews I've seen they submersed whatever it is in the stuff overnight. I'm just curious if it works if you spray it on something and let it sit, like a car frame? Perhaps reapplying every hour or something as it dries out? Would beat the hell out of using acids and wire brush.
You can even clean diecast alloy with it, but be aware, the alloy takes on a darkened grey appearance. Ultrasonic cleaning before the Evaporust will give even better results, because that will remove any oily residue and dirt, and gives the Evaporust a better start. I'd suggest keeping the clean Evaporust separate from the used stuff. Even though it can be used several times over, it loses its potency with every reuse, and mixing used with new will weaken the strength of the new stuff. Oh, and don't try cleaning Mrs NMC's jewelry with it - The results might just not be what you want! 🤦🤢💀😆🤣😁
