I took the throttle body off and the rad hose off and it makes it easier but still kinda hard to get to. I used a screw driver to pry up on it so when you get the clip undone it comes off easy
I'm not sure if there would be enough room to get it on the tensioner. If you could get it on its probably possible to get it out without removing everything else
@@stillmandelorme5189so the main reason you removed the intake was because you couldn’t tighten the new tensioner down tight enough without removing it?
i may be mistaken but I believe there are 3 tensioners total? 2 of them as shown in these series of videos and the 3rd is behind the front cover which requires much more labor. Is there no point in replacing just these 2 if the 3rd one could still be bad?
@@XDLaughPLUR There are only the two of them, the rest are internal and you would have to do a whole timing job to change those. Most of the time its just the external ones that go bad
My 4.0 explorer leaked I'm front tensioner. It would not stop. Ended up stripping out. I had a aluminum cap made and welded to block. No leaks. This motor is designed by idiots.
ya its not a great design but mine leaked after this video no matter what I did so I bought one from ford and it worked perfect right away. If you bought a cheap one like I did it might be not working correctly from the start
@@stillmandelorme5189 apparently they rattle at startup no matter what. I’m not too keen on wasting $250 on a tensioner I don’t need. I replaced everything (front was done a year ago) and it still does it.
