I know its been 5 years since this video however thanks to your tips and tricks, I just cut off the metal off my hatch just like you to get my fuel pump off. What a great idea!! Once done installing my fuel pump I will have to find a sheet metal like you and bolt it on. Thank you for this helpful video.
Doing this today, thanks for the video. 👍🏻 cutting a piece of tin isn’t going to hurt anything except people’s feelings. Dropping the tank over and over is a pain. Great job.
I worked with a buddy to run new fuel lines change the pump, and make mounts for his battery box, we dropped the tank 6 times over the course of a week. 5 minute adjustments took an hour to do, and 2 people. When we were done, he said "we should have just cut a hole"
@@boxer280225 with this mod, i can change the entire pump or sending unit in 5 min, with hand tools and i dont have to lay on the ground. I issued a challenge in a later video, if you can complete that task faster than me, in a video in real time, i will send you money.
I've seriously considered doing this. Good to see that you sealed the removable cover to keep exhaust and fuel smell from entering inside the car. Now what we need is to make an access for the fuel filter because who the heck wants to drop the IRS just to change that thing out!
ljshoreslokal i will be changing my fuel filter while the IRS is out to replace the diff, but i already looked, i have a clear shot to reach the fuel filter without dropping the IRS.
I never thought about doing this. I'm getting a trickflow top end kit soon and I need a better flowing fuel pump so I may do this rather than dropping the tank.
Nice job. I like the concept. Not for a show car or any nostalgic Fox that you dont want to cut up. It is a very practical way to replace the unit and you will have an easier time of you ever have to do it again. I think the same concept should or could be applied to the heater core by cutting the firewall ...
Hey brother I just wanted to say thank you for taking all of the guesswork out of it...I broke my back and just had surgery, just got done installing the sniper efi system and somehow a fuel line got onto the exhaust and melted, do now I gotta get to the top of the tank to fix it and don't think my back or my Dr would be happy about dropping the tank...so this is saving my butt...back I mean lol...time to cut now...✌️👍
Surprised to see so much negative response on this video. This is how Camaro guys do it all the time, it'ssoooooooooo much better. Hope he tries it out.
@@Sgt.Slides I can't blame the Camaro guys doing it that way. On RU-vid remember some people find it too easy to criticize since they aren't in somebody's face. There's all kinds. I appreciate the video.
When your car is a rust bucket, this is the way to go . I’ve done this on my sisters pathfinder . And made a plate to cover the hole just like you did .
Premium - I was looking back through most of your videos. I didn't notice where you spoke in more detail about your new ECU? I was thinking it is a Mega squirt, I would like to hear your take on the new ECU and the tuning process in a future video. I'm looking to install a Mega squirt in my 93 stang (boosted)
Sharp eye, To be honest, i'm not exactly laying all of my cards on the table with this car lol, but yes the ECU is a PIMP XS MS3, and tuning is a breeze if you know what you're doing. I, however, do not know what i'm doing and i'm getting a lot of help getting my tune straight. This is beyond the scope of the basic DIY stuff I am showing on this channel and I don't have anything of value to contribute in the world of tuning your own car. I can say that the PIMP is absolutely worth it especially for the digital dash board display, to make sure the car is running properly. before the car hit the road, we used it to verify timing, and on the road I currently use it to watch my exact temperature until I know how it runs under a variety of conditions. I have also been using auto tune to get my tune closer to what it should be. bow that it's drivable and making good power, I'll be using the data logging and another program to correct my data logs. I can also calibrate my TPS so I don't have to do it manually, and I can also set my rev limiter on the fly. I currently have mine set at 5800rpm because I plan to drift, that way I can ride the rev limiter without really pushing to motor hard. If I was drag racing can easily raise the rev limit, I have had this set up to 6500rpm with no issues, but that's pushing it, especially for my compression and valve clearance. So even after the things I have listed, that's not even scratching the surface of the possibilities of MS3 and Tuner Studio. Now that you've asked the question, I guess it would be worth passing that information along. Look out for a short video of it in a few days.
Wow thanks for the reply. I'm still a few weeks away before my car hits the road. I plan on running MS2 pnp. I guess I'll have some growing pains dialing in my tune. Keep up the good work with on all future videos and car projects (I have 2010 maxima by the way looking to turn it in for something newer)
Now I have 93 Stallion, but I want do this method. Not bad of an ideal for non technical mechanics. I can't judge no one, not even you. Keep dropping the vids....Yikes lol
you can't really set fire to the outside of a gas tank, why does everyone think im telling people to cut the tank open? That would cause a massive explosion.
Great Video! I spit out my water at the 22 sec mark!!! i'm late to the party but did nobody catch the millisecond flash of "AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FO' DAT" performer SWEET BROWN at the 22 sec mark, right after he says, "not everyone wants to be screwing around with dropping the fuel tank."? LMBAO!!! GOOD ONE!!!
All I can say is remember the Pinto. I will stick to dropping the tank for safety issues. I have cut out my truck beds on a truck but never in a trunk of a car. My Nissan has access panel but it was engineered that way.
fucking right best way to go. then if you want to upgrade or change it again should be easy. id rtv around the entire thing though for water to stay out. even on the bottom of it with the weather strippingl dont want water getting in therel
that harness is what powers the fuel pump, and it leads back to the fuse panel. Not sure why it's routed outside the car, then inside, then back outside to the tank.
I have a Fox Body Mustang but it's the lx - a little 4 cylinder 2.3 liter engine - most of the "how tos" pertain to the 5.0 liter engines - I am assuming the fuel tank connections will probably be in the same place since it wouldn't seem to be engine size related - does anyone know for sure.
I've R&R'd soooo many of these pumps, but never w/o dropping the tank. This should be interesting. Also, don't go so big on the pump size (i.e., 255lph). A pump that's too big for the car, which this is, will actually heat up the fuel and can cause a performance drop along with MPG drop.
this was in preparation for future mods, I had a built 302 for about a year, then I upgraded to an ls3, No way the stock pump would have kept up. I've also been back under the cover a hand full of times for other reasons, soooooooooo much better than dropping the tank each time.
We didn't cut into the fuel tank, so there is no need to stress over sealing the hole back up. As long as the new lid is sturdy, it will be fine, unless you have exhaust dumps under the car, then you could have issues.
yeah, just trying to keep things tidy. I know people who watch this think the car is a hack job, but I really do pay attention to every small detail. The weather stripping wasn't needed, but it was just a tad nicer.
I had a Lincoln Mark 7 and that small plug on the fuel pump melted and I'm thinking could of blown my car up smh...but that's what I did to change the bad plug.
I ain't mad at you, but I'm not cutting mine. It's too easy to just drop the tank. This will save you a lil time, but this is not a good idea. However if it works for you, who am I to say anything? Great vid, but dropping the tank is better than hacking up a classic. Just my opinion.
Dropping the tank isn't that hard, and if you botch this you need to drop it anyways, just do yourself a favor and do things the right way and you won't have to worry.
Premium Fuel Mag no, you're showing how to ruin a car. Floor pans in those cars are structural, and that sheet metal is thin. Now that whole rear panel should be replaced to restore the integrity of the chassis. Don't be lazy and do it right.
I'd have to agree with Jeff on that, I think it would be fine for grandma's DD; but for a car that ever gets pushed to it's limits this is no good. I don't think it will lead to catastrophic failure or anything; but you may eventually have a bent sub-frame. That means ugly bulges in your a-pillars and other problems. You can avoid all of this by doing the repair CORRECTLY. This is a free country and you can do what you like to your car, but if you're gonna tell others to do this, you should know what you're doing. If you're driving one of these you and I both know the reason isn't to mosey along at 25 mph, not all the time at least. I would say this is a bad idea and advise anyone against it.
WOW great video wished I saw this when I did my first fuel pump change it's a bitch when you change it by yourself. I will use this approach on my new fox this weekend.
He skipped one VERY important part!... Putting it back in!.. It doesn't just drop in, it sits in a baffle (a little Opening) in the tank thats kinda hard to find if you dont drop the tank to look through the filler neck hole! There's no good advice to finding the right spot unfortunately, you just gotta keep messing with it until you get lucky!
If I have to change my pump,I'll drop the tank then cut the hole and fab the cover for the next time if there ever will be. I can certainly see the advantages of the easy access. It's a shame that this wasn't included in the design of the Foxbody. Still a little risky but nice work.
@@Sgt.Slides i just did this on my 89 stang. works great. used the old piece by screwing wood onto the edges then into the body. didnt have anything to make a panel out of otherwise. but thanks for setting me on to this.
@@tomster7574 make sure you get it closed up well, even if you have to use tape or something. Exhaust fumes will come thru there and make your clothes stink.
we're cutting the floor, not the fuel tank. sparks can hit the outside of the fuel tank all day long. there's no reason to still be cutting once the fuel tank is open.
@@Sgt.Slides I did watch it. Personally, I'd never do it this way, it's just lazy and doing it the right way doesn't take that long. To each there own I guess. I changed mine in less than an hour.
Nothing lazy about finding faster more efficient ways to get work done. You spent an hour on your back and in weird positions with a jack, various sockets and elbow grease doing what I can do In 5 min with a screwdriver and mallet and not get dirty. Why spend 11 min watching a DIY on a procedure you'd never do? Some folks don't mind wasting time I guess.
@@Sgt.Slides niggas just hating on you cuz u intelligent n black n they MAD they DIDN'T think of this shit first...this is a great video for folks with limitations on tools , or body movement- SALUTE my brother
you have to understand that you aren't actually cutting into the gas tank, it's no different from cutting anywhere else, but it's probably best if you let a professional change your fuel pump.
in a recent video, i proposed a $1500 challenge, check it out and take the challenge, you ,may win $1500. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wx_EQlXHitw.html
Thousands of people have successfully relocated their battery. People are doing it wrong if they have charging issues. You have to have the correct thicker gauge wires for power and ground.
Ive dropped the tank on my Mustangs so many times it takes me longer to tie my shoes,know whats another bad idea? these Walbros 255s,I'm having wiring problems now after putting one of these years ago, dont get me wrong, 255s are awesome but only if you have some form of power adder and if you have a power adder its a good idea to upgrade the wring to the fuel pump,255s are way overkill, live and learn i guess. If i was hellbent on doing this thing in this video i would drop the tank as far away from the car as possible, then i would power wash everything nice and clean then i would fabricate some kind of door that fit tight,cut the whole and put the door in,then the tank, cutting a door with a tank below you is not a good idea,i work in machine shop, a few years back one of our guys was grinding a steel plate and he had forgotten to put away a 5 gallon drum of lacquer thinner,one of the sparks hit the drum on a wet spot and the lid was off,all i can tell you is i skipped fourth of July that year,couldn't handle it,lol
So what are you going to do to remove the transmission.. Cut the floor i guess 🤣😅 If it's a clean car that's a bad idea.. you don't need to change the fuel pump every week or even a year.. why cutting your clean car !
If it was easier to remove the trans by cutting the floor, I totally would, but no, that would be stupid. I do have a buddy with a racing transmission and it has the starter attached to it, he cut an access port and it suits him very well. Even though changing the fuel pump is not something that happens very often, just doing this once was still easier, and for the record, I have used the access port at least 6 times since then for other various reasons. it's worked out extremely well for me. My car is still clean, and even easier to work on. All good over here buddy.
and another 30 min pulling the fuel sending unit, and another 30 min putting the tank back with someone helping u. Fuel pump change now takes me 5 min at a leisurely pace, and yes I've pulled it a couple of times for various reasons. this mod has been well worth it.
I guess man, cant help but feel a little cringe over something like that. Like, smart idea but I hate when I see shit like that. Seems like cutting corners to me. I like following factory service info. 🤷♂️
mustangs are unibody cars any cutting of the structure, especialy in the back of the car where a lot of tq and hp are transmitted, it also might crack from where you cut sketchy.or just lazy man com on, wow
nah man its not that big of deal. this was done by many in the 90's. unless your drag racing the car and making 600ftlbs of torque its fine. 300whp or so and its fine, y'all are just pissed you dropped your tank twelve times or you're a mechanic that over charges dropping tanks and over charging.
OK, torque is transferred through the upper and lower control arms which are mounted quite far from this location. Have you done your uppers and lowers yet? Let's be honest, Foxbodys need to be hacked up to handle torque to begin with considering subframes and torque box reinforcement plates are practically standard equipment at the strip. This is not the "right" way but it works and is easily reversible. Considering all that a little access door is not going to hurt anything, rigidity-wise. People like Jeffry Glasgow would know this if they knew their ass from their head.
if you're referring to how to drop the sending unit back in the tank, it's not really possible to show HOW TO do that on video. You have to look down the tank and rotate the sending unit into the baffle. Even if I did it on video, you wouldn't be able to see how I was doing it.
