Wheels alignment,,accurate because aligned with the rear end as reference wich is what you are supposed to do to have a line : ) Of course if the car is all mangled,you will ride a crab.
I like his technique. I wish those who gave him a thumbs down would explain what they didn't like about the video. His video was the only one I saw that took into account the runout of the rims and difference in front and rear width. If you can't find specs on the front and rear widths, then just measure the distance between the two strings at the back of the vehicle (make sure you a measuring perpendicular to the strings) and then measure the distance between the two strings at the front of the vehicle and make sure those two measurements are equal. That will guarantee the two strings are parallel. Then measure the distance between the center of the rim to the string on each side in the back and make sure they are equal. Then measure the distance between the center of the rim to the string on each side in the front and make sure they are equal. This will guarantee the car is centered between the two parallel strings. Good Job - Thanks
Surely it makes no difference what the slight difference in width is between front and rear wheels? If, say, you offset the string from the rear wheels by 40mm at the centre hub, and make sure the two strings are parallel to each other by measuring half a metre in front of the car and half a metre at the back, it may well show the front is wider and may be, say 35 mm from the strings, but as long as the string is parallel to the rear wheels, you can see how much the front wheels are out and adjust the toe in required?
@@tonebonetones Yes,it will work. In each technique you use,you need to be sure that : -the string is parallel to the front and rear end ,whatever their width difference.(so you have to know this reference,by the book,or by finding it ,like you describe) -you always use the hubs as reference,front and rear,or the chassis /unibody bolts location where the front end and rear ends are bolted on. The thing is to have a reference to start with,wich is the car itself. The most accurate is the bolts location,because you eliminate all loose parts to get your geometry references points,: bearings,bushings etc... With my technique,you can tune both sides independently,no need to have two strings at the same time. With yours,it's as accurate,and you can check both sides,one compared to the other, once it's over,just to be sure. But normally the sterring wheel do not move ,so tuning both sides independently is good enough.
I'm 13 years old, and I currently do comedy skits and memes on my channel, but it's not my real passion, really it's just a thing I do to spend time and let out on my ADHD. Either way, one day i'll be a mechanic, and so for the past 7-8 years I've been looking for the best tips and tricks to help me during my career, and a DIY alignment is not really something I thought of until this popped up on my home/fyp, and I have to say, out of all the other DIY alignment vids, this one is the best bro. It covers more things and just gives the average viewer (or at least people like me) a better understanding. This will definitely come in handy later on in life!
Thank you. I'm happy if it will help you in any way,even later in life. I didn't know what i wanted to do when i was 13,and still not know. Good for you if you already have an idea,i wish you to succeed in what you like and feel good to.
So far this is the only video that takes into account the difference in track width from front to back, it also points out the fact that FWD vehicles have preset toe in built into the rear tires, just like my Maxima., a crucial step that almost every other video neglect to mention. Thanks for giving us the correct Info.
Thank you : ) I'm sure you encountered a lab inspector level two. White labs are level one,black labs, level two. You get zebra labs on level three inspections,but it's extremely rare to see them on site. When you have serious activity,you generally have a supervisor,an older black lab,with a white lab on his side, mentored. I think zebra labs are more working on reports and study than on inspections. You are lucky,at least you had inspections. Not a lot of people can say that.
I have watched many videos to know how to alignment my car, but this video is the best simple and technique. I save money and my car goes straight now. Thank you.
Greetings from the USA- thank you so much for putting this video together!!! So many people just show aligning a string from front and back edge of the rims, and don't take into account existing toe-in. Your method is superior.
this is the best vidoe i watch , this video give you the best explan snd the best way teach you . i was looking for workshop to fix my tire alignment the cheapst said $105 then i said wow , how long it will take they said 20min ?? then i think why not check youtube how they fixing tire alignment and i serch alot but this video was the best , thank you very much
Thanks, It's a general rule,it's like that most of the time,but you can see different settings if you have a 4x4,or an electric vehicle,where you need the less friction as possible through the tires.
VERY informative video! Thank you for pointing out that some vehicles have a different track width for front and rear axles! Your dog looks like a very good dog. It looks like the one I lost years ago. I still miss her. For me, millimeters are much easier than degrees!
This is top tier backyard mechanic quality right here lol. Exactly how I was taught, except I always had a guy in the driver's seat during the final adjustments. If we're gonna get all mathematical and technical, gotta add the driver's approximate weight too right 🤷
You went into actual mechanic's specifics; i.e., the measure- ments, etc. This was much better than the other apps I have seen----Much more accurate. But, because tire wear is such a big issue, it's still a good idea to take your car to the shop and find out just how accurate your work was.
Actually the best video for this job, and i saw many of them , it helped me resolve my problem , USE THE CENTER OFF THE BACK RIMS to measure and parallel the string to the front wheels , THE BACK RIMS HAVE TOE IN !!!! THANK YOU!!! I RESOLVED MY PROBLEM!!!
I'm happy to read that,thanks : ) All wheels can have toe in,toe out,camber wich don't allow accurate alignement if you take the rims as reference. Using the hub ,or the very center of the wheels neaarly eliminate that. wheel bas is different too,between front and rear,it must be considered too : )
@@michaelovitch thank you very very much for your advise! i was fighting with this problem at least 1 year! i found what i did wrong! and today i have perfect alignment ! all numbers match!
Use that : www.google.com/search?q=digital+angle+gauge&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk01ZQ8TswJRT9SVUBgxodHMC_DSd4w:1588941842844&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiA2vHQpaTpAhUPhRoKHb_MCE4Q_AUoAnoECAsQBA&biw=1920&bih=977 www.amazon.com/Inclinometer-Alignment-Satellite-Antenna-Magnetic/dp/B00VHX0HO8 You stick that on the shock absorber for caster , and the hub for camber ,and get both axis tuned easily. You need to be sure the one you get has a 0° level programmed in it as absolute reference. Otherwise you will have to set the 0° reference tuned each time before you measure an angle with your transversal level reference such as the top middle of the roof,or the strut reinforcement bar,or the firewall or whatnot. To be accurate,you need to be in the car too,your weight will modify the suspension geometry. You are supposed to do that with a level car,longitudinalland transversal. etc....
Yes,this job is supposed to be done with specific chassis height following the specs,or manufacturer. You can't do the job without her lol Every time i open a door ,she jumps in.
Thank you. People can criticize,or dislike,it's all good. As long it's respectuously and with a point,it's quite normal,each one can perfect the method i show here,to be more accurate.
Best alignment video. WHen I watched the other ones I was like....how the heck do you know your string is parrallel to the front. Your video used the center so its pro. Thumbs up!
A most excellent video that would make Chuck Noland proud (Tom Hanks character in Castaway where he didn't talk)! If someone where planning to do this in the near future, what techniques are useful to prep those tie-rod nuts for removal. If those nuts remove pretty easily at the time one plans to do the work, then this job is pretty straightforward.
Thanks : ) some cleaning would help,mud ,dust,grease on the thread do not allow the nut to be loosened easily. A steel brush,and some penetratting oil will help to get those loose easily.
Great video! I have been using this method for years and its better than an alignment shop you can take your time and make it perfect! I like the way you secure the steering wheel haven't seen that before good idea!
If my experience is normal first time I had the wheels aligned the steering wheel was way off. Second time they had tightened the lock nuts up so tight that the van required new tie rods the threads were warped. Different service centres. So I think I would go with this method which to be honest looks as though you are going to get damn close. Nice video.
I use a laser measurer to quickly check the distance between the front inner tyres and it usually shows toe in 1mm. Where would i get the front and rear wheel widths for my Saab93?
Didn't find for your engine,but got it for the 2.0 turbo. workshop-manuals.com/saab/9-3_(9440)/l4-2.0l_turbo_(2.0_t)/steering_and_suspension/alignment/system_information/specifications/ workshop-manuals.com/saab/9-3_ The best is to get the haynes manual for your car,or ask a car dealer.
It is easier to mark the front and rear of the front tyres in the same part of the tread and measure the distance between both tyres at the front and rear marks and that will tell you the distances and give you the correct toe once you have the same measurements!
Death wobble is often caused by play in the front end : loose tie rods,bars. If you have a small caster angle,it can be a problem too. Heavy wheels,or too big wheels can cause that too. It's a resonance phenomenon,so parts start to vibrate together on the same frequency and it gets worse until all the front end is shacking. Alignement can cause that,but toe out,i doubt about that if it's within normal specs for road use.(conservative specs) check more the caster and loose components.
@@michaelovitch Oh no dude, commercial tile it's really hard and it has some flexibility in it, I have used them a few times in the past on big vehicles Fords and Chevys , you probably misunderstood and thought I was talking about ceramic tile, I'm pretty sure ceramic tile would probably break as soon as you drive up a car on them.
In a manual,like the Haynes manual or the shop manual for your model of car. If t's a front wheel drive it's generally more or less 1mm of toe out on the front wheels.
Get a OTC steering wheel holder to lock the steering wheel to keep it from moving. Center the steering wheel. Measure the center of the rear tires and then the center of the front tires and toe them in according to the spec. using a Longacre 79620 toe gauge from Amazon. Get a Snap-On caster/camber gauge to set the camber.
I since found out the tracks should be equal at 1522mm, i may drop a plumb line a couple inches from each wheel centre and measure the difference across the ground for peace of mind.
That's the thing to do. You can give a good look at the tires,speially the front ones. You should see even wear between the outer and inner sides of the contact patch. it must be smooth ,not scalopped. if scalloped on the inner side= to much toe in on the outer side side = to much toe out.
It's a sheet of plastic between two carbords pieces. It allows the wheel to easily rotate on the ground,so the steering components do not flex on bushings,and allow you to be accurate on setting the toe. If you move the wheel directly on the ground,the tire will grab and flex,like the bushings on the control arms etc to come back to its initial position,and the setting will be inaccurate.
To turn it,you grab it,and rotate it,there are often flat spots for a wrench to contact properly. The thread on rods is often 1.5 millimeter of length in more or in less per rotation,but depends on the manufacturer,cars you work on,or even if it's a metric or imperial system. But the thread is only there to allow you to rotate it,and has nothing to do with the result on the alignement tuning. The geometry and dimensions of the hub,its arm length where the tie rod seat and the wheel diameter itself play a huge role in the whole process. You can't use the tie rod thread as a clue to know what it does per rotation unless you know the whole dimensions of each parts moving, You measure at the rim the result of each movement of rotation you made. Use the wire as reference,and move the tie rod without considering its thread pitch,but only the result on the wire. The thread pitch is just a convenient system to have a steady increment,on a scale small enough to be accurate. Is it ok for you ?
@@michaelovitch Yes, I think so, thank you. It sounds to me that one rotation of the rod could make 4 or 5mm difference in the wheel rim measurements so, as long as it’s not too far out, partial turns are the way to go. So, to do the adjustment, I keep the wheel facing forwards and, without jacking the van, I reach behind the wheel with a couple of adjustable spanners whilst avoiding touching the string. I think I’ve just figured out why you didn’t show that bit! 😂
@@michaelovitch Lol! I can sympathise. I tried changing the tie rod on my Renault Trafic yesterday. I couldn’t find any RU-vid videos specifically on this type of van so I wasn’t sure it was even possible without removing the whole steering rack. Seemed like a good opportunity to make a video. Turned out that doing tie rod was easier than the video. Yours looks very professional though. Thank you.
@@JoButterwick Thank you. They are look alike,and only accessibility can vary. Sometimes,you need to use a tie rod tool www.google.com/search?q=inner+tie+rod+tool&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjxo4yXzJz0AhUJvxQKHQYeD7cQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=tie+rod+tool&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQARgBMgcIIxDvAxAnMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEAcQHjIGCAAQBxAeMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEAcQHjIGCAAQBxAeMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEAcQHjIGCAAQBxAeUABYAGDiFmgAcAB4AIABZogBZpIBAzAuMZgBAKoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=UH2TYfG7FIn-Uoa8vLgL&bih=966&biw=1903&client=firefox-b-d&hl=fr I used a big pipe wrench until now,and it worked good.
The ruler must be the closest as possible from the string. And your head directly above the string. If you are within a millimiter it's ok,manufacturers allow more or less half a millimiter per side of margin when adjusting the toe in or out.
Got it. I had to remove cover at the center of the rim to get a steady surface for the ruler. Btw, I did alignment using your method, but driving is a bit to the right. What could be wrong?
Roads are not straight, flat,but lean to one side,or are curved. It can have an effect on what you feel or see. You may have not well centered and locked the steering wheel at the beginning,so it can be a problem too. To test your work you need a really straight road. You can see that on google earth,by using the toold allowing you to create lines on the map. : )
Eduardo Zuniga Get a OTC steering wheel holder to lock the steering wheel in place. Center the steering wheel from turn to turn, then lock it in place. Get a toe bar-Longacre 79620 from Amazon. Get a caster/camber gauge that reads in inches if yours is inches and not degrees.
For sure,it 's useful when you can adjust them on your car. Here it's limited to toe in or out,and adding caster or not by replacing the tie rod end with an off centered one,for vehicles having power steering.
The issue with this video and many others is that not all cars have square hubs... You can't square the strings to the wheels if the rear has a wider track-width. It would be better to measure from the subframe or something to square your strings and ignore the "wheel center."
This car had no the same track width either,and was adjusted properly. You maybe didn't watch the whole video : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5TdqnrmA6AI.html
You can roll the car on wood boards to be at the desired height,or simply be careful and slide the arm to the tie rod. This car is quite low even if it's not a lamborghini or something that low,and i can do it. Be sure to roll the car on what you use to get it higher,otherwise the suspensions will not support the weight and the alignement will not be as accurate.
@@vincentlee2460 If you jack it up,the suspension geometry angle will mess up you tuning on the alignement. The best would be to roll the car on boards so its 4 tires at level and suspensioàn compressed.
It's more accurate with a laser,but being accurate with a brand new complete tight front end represents maybe few vehicles on the usual customers. All this accuracy is useless,most of the time because bushings are a bit loose,or there is a bit of play in the rods,or the rims are damaged. a little damage on a rim ,even a milimeter of defrmation,not visible withoout controling it like i did,and the whole laser accurate set up is completly useless. it's what happened to a man i know,he paid 50 euros and his car want to go to the right as soon as she can... his rims were damaged,the "technicians" didn't care i think.
Ciao .. in front wheel traction , when you proceed ..... assuming ideally TO NOT HAVE THE STEERING ARMS it is correct to think the wheels start to converge (0:38) So you may think to set the Car with a toe out to correct this... But consider the position and existance of the 2 steering rods and relative lever geometry: If the 2 steering arms are behind the hubs , at 0.38 the whishbones deforms converging.... but the STEERING rods are PULLED AND BECAUSE OF their more powerful lever geometry they pull the two wheels causing a diverge condition.... :-) Yes this is counter intuitive I know. Viceversa If the steering rods are AHEAD THEIR respective FRONT WHEELS HUBS..... THERE WILL BE A severe MULTIPLICATIVE converging situation.... ;-)
Very interesting remark. : ) Thank you for that. Yes,+ the fact steering links offset (tie rods are not always inline with the inner tie rod ,and the control arm vertical movement,so they tend to do the same also. my car here have inline steering rods,since it's a manual rack ,so it's to reduce the effort on the steering wheel + the really little caster...
The string must be close to the widest of both ends : the rear or front end but no touching the wheel. You have to know the track width from front and rear. You use the hub where the wheels are against as reference. Using wheels if they are different,is a mistake,because they can have different width,offset,or simply thickness. : )
$178 here for custom alignments with taxes and I had to come back 3 times so they managed to finally center the damn steering wheel. Once they even offered me to even remove the steering wheel and put it on the "right" way... it was centered before the alignment...
The process is quite quick, one would be surprised. The being there all day part is getting the one friggin lock nut off the tie rod thats worth 50 bucks lol
Oh no, it's in english, i don't have to use my brain now (i don't anyway) :-D I wonder how many stupid people will leave the bar across the steering wheel lol. The world seems full of idiots that have to be told how "Not to kill themselves". Hopefully this bad habit has not leaked into france too :-(. If i did this job, i would find the jam nut easy to move, but the adjustment arms would be rusted solid, But i would only find this out when i had set the line up and ready to adjust. LOL :-D :-D
I think it leaked everywhere. There are a lot of dumb dumb,even in the baguette country : ) Luckily we don't have the sea nearby,or rarely salt on the road,so it's not rusting here. The worst we can have is diesel fuel free underside coating with the first rain. we have so much diesel cars here,that each time it's raining,the first day,it's very slipery on the streets,particularly on the roundabouts...
Ooow i had the impression that french people were sharp and clever, i think i may have used you as a template LOL :-D Hmm diesel threw me off a motorbike years ago, i was going to work and just came off an island, the exit road bent to the left at a really tight angle, the bike just slipped away under me and slid across the road. Yep road covered with diesel. I was ok but the clutch lever was snapped off, it was fun driving home without a clutch, every junction i was mumbling "Don't make me stop" lol i really don't like crashing gears.
Don't make me blush lol There are loads of dumbos everywhere,even here lol I went down few times too because of a diesel stain,my left knee have no more hair on it since lol it was like a pizza for few days.
Ooow that just sounds nasty :-(, Did it have mushrooms on it.. ha ha :-D. Sorry my silly side just had to say that :). I had one accident where a driver of the none male variety decided to overtake me, then ram on her brakes, oh joy, i could not stop in time and the bike hit the road... I was really pissed off as the woman drove off and the headlight was smashed on my motorbike, yep i cared more about the bike than me lol. But a month later my back started to hurt, delayed damage, and it took another month to vanish, odd that. Life can be annoying at times lol :-D
I see a lot of (particularly for sure) women using their phone while driving when i go out with the dogs. It's really creepy because it's not just talking in it,it's looking at the screen ,and sending messages,using the pad.... It's so dangerous. Sometimes they just fly by ,looking down,with the white screen's light all over the face,like if they were brainwashed. i'm so afraid to die because of that,even just crossing the road while using the crosswalk. men too, but proportionnaly less.
Yes and no,you are correct. On this car you only can modify toe. Camber and caster can't be touched,unless you install camber bolts on the struts,and offset tie rods ends.
Nonsense. Modern garages rely far too much on the technology of laser adjustment and guess what? Dissatisfaction for wheel alignments is at an all time high. I have been to one, chain tyre branch, 4 times....and the car still pulls to the left. None of these so called pro places do such as thing as clamping the steering wheel, for example, like this guy - wisely - does.
I took my car for an alignment to a shop with an expensive machine... guess what, idiots didn't straighten my steering wheel and when I got my car back the steering wheel was off-center, though numbers were all in specs. I just realigned it at home and checked alignment in a local shop and it was spot on and steering wheel was on center as well. Shop does not mean good. A good shop is good, not any shop.
