Thank you for this fix - it works perfectly. I loosened the bolt and wiggled the fuse slice a little and then tightened the bolts again. No more CEL, Emissions, VSA, Power Steering warning lights. I'm subscribing...
My VSA and Power Steering warnings came on after my battery died, and stayed on even after getting a new battery. I simply disconnected and reconnected the fuse specified in this video. I started the car, went for a drive, and the warning lights have not come back on since. Thanks for the tip!
i had the same trouble warning came after the battery died, i changed the battery for a new oem honda and discotnected and reconnected the fuse on the video , but warning always there, i have to do a roadtest and light will came off ? or when u did it the light came off when starting
@@truckdashcamquebec4078 Bad news. A few days later the light came back on, ended up having to replace the VSA modulator after all. Not saying that's what your problem is, but I was out of options.
3 possible causes for all those lights at dashboard: 1 abs module malfunction, 2 fuses, 3 abs sensor in wheel hub or spindle front or rear, I hope this help someone out there I had a headache with mine.
Hey mine is doing this now, how much is new ABS module and how do I check it ? Also abs sensor on wheel hub how do I check it? How much to replace ? Gonna check my fuses now wait for ur reply how to check other two
Thanks so much for showing this video!! My starter died yesterday in Honda Civic EX 2013 at 103K miles. I did some shortcut and the radio was gone. Took the car to Honda they fixed the starter for $800 and now that I picked up the car I have this VSA, ABS, codes just like what you showed here. Honda wanted $150 because they say it was the sensor. I didn't pay cus I don't have that $ right now. I'll try to find these fuses thank you again 🙂
Hey guys I’m sorry I have not been able to reply to your messages, I’m currently over seas. If I don’t reply to you it’s beacuse I simply don’t have the answer
I had this issue. The fuses looked good, the battery was fine. It ended up being low brake fluid. The fluid was above the "min" line, but it was on the low end so I added some brake fluid. Brake light, VSA, and power steering lights all went out.
Robert, Thanks for the information this is very helpful. I wanted to share a few additional things to this issue. My car is a 2013 Civic EX-L sedan and it did the same thing recently. All of my fuses were fine. There is no way in hell I was going let any shop replace the ABS / VSA module unless I could confirm, myself, that it is faulty. I wanted to share the events that led up to my car throwing these exact same problems as described in this video. I do not know if these events are related to this issue or not. 1.) The small, flexible intake tube that connects the air cleaner assembly to the throttle body was replaced by myself. This was replaced because I was receiving a check engine light that said "Check Emissions System". A P0171 fault code was stored. The existing intake tube has a hole in it, so this was the reasons why the ECM triggered the P0171 fault code. When the tube has a hole in it, fresh air is bypassing the Mass air flow sensor and going directly into the engine. At this point, the issues within this video were not a problem. It was only the P0171 code. 2.) After replacing the intake tube and making sure that everything was properly connected back up, and, all clamps were properly tighten, it wasn't until I started the car for the first time to test out the new tube. This is when this VSA, ABS, POWER Steering issue came up. This issue did not come up until after I replaced the intake tube and started the car after finishing the replacement. I do not know if replacing the intake tube trigger these items to show faulty or not. 3.) I drove the car, and the power-steering seemed fine and brakes were fine. The car drove great inspite of the fact that all these issues were flashing on the IMID screen. 4.) I do know, that the car needs to be driven for something like three times, for a certain length of time for each drive, before the ECM / ABS/ VSA stops triggering these warnings. So if you replace these fuses, or make any other repair that stops these issues, you need to drive the car for at least three times for something like 5 minutes for each drive. The ECM / ABS / VSA needs to see a consistent good reading, from the sensors, throughout multiple driving sessions, before it stops flashing all these warnings on the I-Mid. If you do a HARD reset, these issues will imediately stop flashing on the I-MID if the issue no longer exists. 5.) My fuses were fine. I simply just drove my car around my subdivision, as described above, and these warning simply went away. 6.) Right now, I am not exactly sure what triggered these items to fault, but, this is not a problem anymore and I did not have to replace anything. When I had the intake tube off, I cleaned the throttle body out with some throttle body cleaner. I opened the butterfly, with my thumb, just so I could clean both sides of the butterfly valve and clean further down the throttle body. The throttle body is completely servo-motor controlled. It is NOT cable operated like the old cars are. The reason why the butterfly is servo controlled is that the ABS/VSA module controls the throttle when traction control is kicking in. I HIGHLY suspect as a result of opening and closing the throttle-body butterfly WITHOUT depressing the gas pedal, this set-off some sort of error within the ABS/VSA system. 7.) If your fuses are not blown, as described in this video, you may wish to try a HARD reset to your ECM before taking it to a dealer. A HARD reset will reset your ECM and it will reset your ABS/VSA/Power Steering System. A hard reset is something that seems to be a secret among Honda dealers. It is a simple process and simply disconnecting the battery and hooking it back up does not do a hard reset. Watch this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-II9X3lBKYWY.html
The fuse/multi fuse you featured seems to be stuck when trying to undo it. I’m changing the fuse directly under it (blower motor, main fan etc) and I unscrewed the screw and pulled the latch back but it seems stuck. Did you experience a lot of tension or was it a straight pull?
2012 honda civic exl.You might be a life saver. My wife took it to honda and they said speed sensor cost $320 . I said nope. Well I ordered that and still got the problem. Will try this next. The only thing I did that might have set this off was a wheel bearing replacement and also by the way autozone diagnosed it with a bad alternator, well I tested it and tested good buy went ahead and replaced it since it was 10 yrs old.
2013 Honda Civic LX had Check VSA, Check ABS, Check Power Steering, Check Brake Systems. Went to Honda ($175 plus tax) for a diagnostic, last time these lights came on it needed an ECU update. Honda said that it was my starter and battery that needed to be replaced. Starter starts fine so I went to Advance to get a new battery. Car ran good for a couple days then the System Check lights came back on. I am thinking it might be a grounding issue (short in a wire) but will check the fuses. Thanks for the input, wish I would have seen this sooner.
What do you mean when u said an arc might trigger the fuse to blow? Also changed my battery and the codes came on. Havent checked for the fuse. Have a 2014 Honda accord should be the same right?
Dealing with this now and inspection is coming up. If I disconnect battery it doesnt come back on for 20 sometimes 200 miles. Completely random it seems but good enough to get passed inspection I suppose. I also own a FlashPro, im not too sure if I could just turn these off manually but either way Id like to get it fixed if it is the actually VSA system. Fuse seems fine, nothing broken. May replace anyway. 160k miles, FBO/viittune, still riding stock clutch! And not a single problem besides TPMS needing to be replaced in the past 8 years. Im due for something major to go :P
My 2012 Honda Civic Coupe sat un-driven all winter, and I just replaced the battery. It starts, but all of the warning lights you described are ON. The radio/stereo also does not function. Is my car safe to drive? Should I drive it and see if they go out? Nothing was wrong with it the last time I drove it...and it's well maintained, only 66,000 miles.
That’s what I always check. Fuse first. I found my multi fuse box was blown. Replaced it but still have all the abs,brake,power steering,tire pressure, traction control,Fwd,LDW lights on. The abs, brake, fwd & LDW lights turn off occasionally. But tire pressure, power steering & traction light is always on. Tire pressure light is the only one that blinks a few times before becoming a solid light. All the other lights are always solid
When those warnings pop up would you lose power steering? I had mice chew up the four wires that affect those codes on a 2016, fixed the wires and the codes went away. Drove it a couple hundred miles, codes came back and lost power steering. Check and the wires were still good, drove it to the shop to have them look at it and codes were there but everything was working again. They cleared the codes and it drove fine a couple 100 more miles and lost power steering again.
Just bought a used 2013 civic lx with 220k miles... ABS, EPS, and VSA lights are on. Abs and vsa i can live without, so that leaves the EPS. Power steering is working fine, so ill check the fuse box like you said. Thanks for the tip brother
Hi, sorry if my English not that good. Actually I’m having this problem too, but tha workshop ask me to change the VSA pump, should I listen to them or I should try to change new fuse?
Hi Robert, would that fuse not let your brake lights come on and will keep your car in park cuz thats whats going on with mine..I changed out my brake light switch under the dash that hits the brake pedal and it still doesn't work.
Clean the abs connector with electrical cleaner and applied die electric grease and this stopped my issue of all lights on and missing like crazy! I think just disconnecting the power by fuse or abs connector will work!
Snow Rider you still need to check that fuse, Because I did everything under the moon like hard reset and nothing happened, once I pulled the fuse I noticed one of the fuses were blown setting everything off
Mines literally started doing this a week ago, for the majority of the time when the engine is on, I see the VSA, Power Steering, and ABS alerts on. Sometimes while driving, they go away for 5-15mins then they reappear. I took it to a Honda dealership, and they said the same exact thing, that "more than likely, the part that needs to be switched out is the modulator" SAME PART the guy in the video pointed out. They claim the part itself is 1,439 dollars and it'll be an extra 300 bucks for labor if they wanted me to switch it out altogether. Glad I walked away and saw this video. Thx bud!
Had this problem for a year. My solution was at the abs module. Turns out the plastic hand switch on the module had been broken and only looked to be in the upright position. I took off the connection point on the abs module and used a screwdriver to push the remaining plastic (for the hand switch)to the other switched position.
all try this tomorrow. all I did was take my batt out to find a grommet for an audio power wire install. put my batt back in and its shooting ALL the alarms you mention. . . my signals are messed up and I can't get out of park unless I use a screwdriver and manually disengage it. . . my batt is good, resting voltage 12.7V ... so stumped. I hope this works
Thank you so much bro didn't even have to replace mine i just wiggled it and pushed it down a little bit turned the car back on and codes left right away
My car is a 2013 civic and this happens on long drives of 2 or more hours. After the car sits for 6-8 hours overnight all the lights go away. While the lights are on the car will stall with rapid acceleration
nicely explained i also went to the dealership and shit i said laters i aint going to pay that much were in el paso texas remember from san elizario texas good video thanks
(2012 Civic GX (natural gas version, not gasoline)) Brief history: I observed the battery terminals were in need of cleaning. When reassembling I applied anti-corrosion grease and after resetting the clock, radio, etc everything seemed to be working well. Another week down the road, we observed some power drops when accelerating before the engine was fully warmed up. I was trying to figure out what the problem was when things got worse: several warnings "Check Emission Sys", Check "ABS", Check "Power Steering", Check "VSA". Looking for youtube help, I found this post. First, step seemed very reasonable. Check the fuses. Pulled the fuse assembly identified in the video and checked each with a digital volt meter on continuity setting. All fuses were good. No signs of corrosion or oxidation on connectors. Reinstalled fuses. Turned it over, no error codes, Test drove, no power lags. Repeated test drive today, no problems. I will continue to test daily (more or less) and let you know if the problem reoccurs. Thank You R Hall for sharing your learning's. I saved a trip to the mechanic and $?. >>>>>>>>>>>> Update Below >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The problem re-occurred after a few days so I took it to "Advance Auto Parts" to get error codes. The employee said only code was a misfire on cylinder 4. I said ok, I will replace plugs but what does he suggest to fix ABS issue . He said "change the spark plugs" and that this would probably fix the abs error code as they have seen Honda's throw bad error codes when basic maintenance issues are not addressed. I replaced the plugs, he cleared the codes. Problem gone. 20200205 Problem has not recurred in over three months! Kudos to Advance Auto for helping!
IMPORTANT: Disconnect your battery before unscrewing the main fuse talked about in this video! The copper conductors to the left of the fuse are attached to the fuse and are DIRECTLY connected to the battery! This is the main fuse, after all. If you do not disconnect the battery, you run the RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK and there will be NO protection from a fuse. Taking the full brunt of a car battery can severely burn or injure you, or even kill you. Disconnect the Negative Terminal (BLACK) first, and be sure the cable cannot make accidental contact with the battery terminal while you're working. I have a 2012 Civic LX, and my wife tried to jump it in the morning going to work (interior light left on overnight drained battery); still waiting for coffee to kick in and rushing to get to work, she connected the jumper cables backwards and did not notice her mistake until after attempting to start the car. After correcting the cable issue and a successful jump, it was throwing these exact indicators but everything was running as normal. I tested all the fuses with a digital multimeter continuity mode, and they all passed (including pulling this large fuse and testing all the contacts). I took it for a test drive to see how bad it really was, and after braking once or twice the indicators all just went away. Perhaps this indication can also be caused by bad current and/or dead battery and it just needed to somehow calibrate itself via driving activity before it was OK? If you are seeing these indicators, take a slow test drive in a safe location and brake several times, and see if that solves the problem; especially if you have just recovered from a dead battery or changed the battery! My wife was scared to move the car (it said "Check Brakes!!") and was ready to have it towed to a dealership. It would have been $1600+tow for what will likely turn out to be a momentarily glitched computer!
Hi Robert...I too have the CNG model. I've not driven for several months so decided that I would take it to work one morning. Dead battery. Put the charger on while I left for work. Came back a few hours later, fired right up and immediately began showing codes including VSA, ABS, brakes and power steering. I've ordered the new genuine 92566zk fuse so hoping when here, this will solve my problem. Dave
I ordered the fuse but by the time is arrived, I had followed someone else's suggestion (I believe on this RU-vid post) to simply drive it a short distance and use pump the brakes....I did that and all went away! Working just fine now.
For me it was the wheel bearing Changed the whole spindle with a bearing quick easy swap After changing sensor checking wiring checking the fuse, swapping the fuse, took it to a mechanic for a diagnostic He told me to change the bearing. Thought he was crazy since my bearing wasn’t showing signs of wear but sure enough. 100ft down the road all lights turned off no reset. Crazy new tech all interconnected
2012 Honda Civic lx here, i have the same symptoms plus a check engine light. Sometimes my car will flash the check engine light and misfire when pushing too hard while these lights are on. I hook up a scan tool to find that it's misfiring on all cylinders. I have replaced the battery and was going for the grounds next. And I visually inspected this fuse and noticed that the sharpie lines are not aligned. Could this spell problems? If not, where should I be looking? My very last resort is taking it to the dealership for diagnosis. Edit: I would also like to mention that these lights do go away by themselves after a couple of days to a week or two and then come back after two or three days.
I had the Serpentine belt replaced at a Honda dealership, and two days later all these codes started firing. A mechanic came out and tried to reset it with one of those electrical devices. he said the ABS module is messed up. I have a 2013 Civic with 48,000 miles. He said no other codes were on. Honda wants $1500 to fix it.
That's the same thing its happening to mine. I caught a screw on the back tire and since then it set them off, put the spare then they all went away. But then now with another tire on it they came back
Robert have any issues with the power steering relay itself? I have intermittent malfunction where I might start the car and get no power steering. Just need to shut off/restart the car and it works fine. Think i need to replace the Power Relay (at least my OBD2 reader thinks so)
@@itsjuniorfoolss no it just resolved itself doing nothing.. I did end up unplugging battery, removing and putting back the same fuse described in the video. This issue happened under a week of hot weather only.
Conclusion on my 2016 Civic Sedan as of 01/2024. First I did check the fuse mentioned it was not that. My brother in law has a top of the line computer he plugged it in to. Diagnostic had us change the airbag clock spring, drove it for 20 miles, all lights came back on. Took it back and he checked all the ground wires leading to the VSA Modular, he noticed one of the wires was loose to the ground and was hot. He righted it back up and fixed the problem. The ground wire was the one going directly to the VSA Module.
My girls car is showing vsa, emmision, power steering and its giving me a sluggish idle when turned on and when i press the gas pedal the check engine light starts to blink. Any help? I’m about to check the fuses you spoke about either tomorrow or the day after.
Right next to your speedometer on the upper side of the dash where you see how fast you are going on the bottom right you have a light on that is a circle and Iside the circle It looks like the letter i . Do you know what that circled i means? I have the same exact car
If anyone changes out your front wheel bearings, make sure to put the magnetic side of the bearing facing inside towards your sensor. That would cause for you to have those lights turned on. I took my car to mechanic to replace wheel bearing because it needed to be pressed on to the hub, when went back to pick up car, all those lights were on. I asked if he put the magnetic side inward to face sensor, He said No because they looked the same. Be sure to do that.
I swap the left front wheel with the right rear wheel and the all this warning lights are on(ABS ESP POWER STARING AND SO MANY . And today I switch back i see what happens
Very informative video. One question if you can help me, Somebody pulled the cables out from under the steering wheel,I assume to attempt to disengage the alarm,and I dont know where they plug back in as there are to many slots.pls help
I have CRV 2012 after replacing battery DTC 32-0C is erase with launch x431 but sometimes is came on. All fuse are ok I want to know what is the problem
Mine is currently coming on as well. The weird part is that when it’s cold outside it doesn’t come on for a long time but if I sit parked for a little bit Or if it’s warm outside it will then come on. I guess I will try changing the fuse to see if there is any luck. Is there any word on how much it costs to replace the vsa module??
we have the same issue.. mine comes on and off too... did changing the fuse fixed it... my fuse looks ok.. was thinkin of changing the fuse even its ok i guess...
@@HaBaRaHu no not at all. We ended up having to replace the whole module. Out of 1700 luckily they were able to take payments. Hope you have better luck
I took my steering column out to change my ignition assembly. I don't think I really needed to do that but that's what I did. I didn't have any codes before I did this work and I put it back together and double-checked it so everything's back the way it was. But now I have a power steering light and VSA light. I did at one point disconnect the battery and accidentally made it Spark so I'm thinking maybe I blew my fuse I just haven't checked it yet. I'm told because I took out the steering column that I just need to reset my computer and steering angle sensor I guess it needs to be calibrated
i have a 2013 Honda Civic LX and i had this same issue. (abs, vsa and power steering lights) i disconnected and reconnected both the battery and the fuse that he's referring to in this video. started it back up and all 3 lights were still on. drove down the road a little and they went away. whatever i did seemed to fix the issue. hope this helps
brother can you please share the photo of the fuse box of both cabinet fuse box and hood fuse box. i was having same problem and while checking the fuse i messed up things I guess I have inserted some fuse in wrong place due to which my car is not starting. i an also having 2012 civic lx
@@pic2022 Dealer wanted $1,600 for mine but it is on backorder with no projected delivery date. I sent my unit to a company called XEMODEX in Canada. They fixed it (5 open circuit faults) in the computer which they fixed. The total cost including shipping was around $300 and no programming was necessary.
I hit something in the road and it damaged my right rear ABS wiring. The AVS, and Power Steering lights came on, another light too, - - - lights went out after a few starts. Rides fine - going to check the wires and tidy them up. Maybe replace the harness to that wheet. We'll see, but all the lights are out now and runs fine. Road hazard was a piece of angle iron - what a pain.
My car is throwing those codes and starting intermittently, even though the start button seems fine, battery is new, alternator is new. Suspecting belt tensioner and belt. Brake fluid looks fine (the cap wiggles, so I'm a little sus, but that may be normal for a double-sealed cap.)..... Not sure, maybe brake pedal position sensor. Will edit if I find out. Trying fuse first. No issues while driving.
Thanks for the video bro.my 2012 civic 73k miles is flashing abs,vsa,and power steeiring,just before they popped up,my car lost 5mpg ,I went from 29 mpg to 24.and it smells like something is burning in the engine idk what it is.
My 13 civic had the Check VSA, Check PowerSteering and tire light come on all at once. I did not notice any difference in the driving of the car. But took it to the Dealer they checked and said a sensor in the modulator had an error. They also checked that fuse and other electrical connections and voltages. Did a reset and the codes went away. So I’m waiting to see what happens. Yeah I spent $120. But if it was the modulator they will deduct that off the replace/repair cost.
@@baileymcdaniel8468 it’s a known problem for that car and it’s around a $1000 repair. My car only had 30k miles. The next day I went to a dealer and traded it in for a 2020 EXL CIVIC turbo, got a good deal, and big improvement. Good luck with yours.
@@baileymcdaniel8468 Dealer wanted $1,600 for mine but it is on backorder with no projected delivery date. I sent my unit to a company called XEMODEX in Canada. They fixed it (5 open circuit faults) in the computer which they fixed. The total cost including shipping was around $300 and no programming was necessary.
I just got these, check ABS, Check VSA system, Check power steering,. I checked the fuse bank and it was OK, I also checked my battery because last time I had random codes it was my battery was about to die (dead cells), was low so I charged it with trickle charger, still had codes.. Checked my brake fluid and it was very low. I added brake fluid and my codes went away. So my solution was ADD BRAKE FLUID. hope this might help someone out.
My husband wants to change the fuse. I'm thinking add about a teaspoons worth of brake fluid to see if it makes a difference. The fluid does seem to indicate max but I'm suspicious.
Hey there, I own a 012 civic LX And well my problem is that on the IMID the oil life percentage, MPG, and odometer all disappeared, any help or solutions to this....thx
Checking continuity will not be an accurate test without load of some kind.. Hairline breaks will show clear path. If nothing appeared to blow the fuse, i would not trust a no load test. Good luck.
hello i have the same civic and the same things is happing and my horn and the buttons on my steeing wheel stoped working i checked i think all the fuses that where needed to check but they all seemed ok plz help me out
