Finally! So refreshing to see a repair video that was beautifully filmed and perfectly explained! It wasn't 30 minutes long, and I don't have motion sickness from watching it. This video definitely sets the bar!
Thank you for posting! When my sons car, a 2003 Honda Pilot, fan stopped working I figured he'd have to just deal with it due to the belief that it would be a hard and expensive fix Found you video and gave it a shot. Bam!! It worked. I even changed the cabin filter too which was more of a pain than the resistor was. My part had 3 screws vs yours's with two. All in all it was 36$ to repair including the cabin filter!! Thanks again!!
I just replaced this blower motor this morning on my 2011 Honda Odyssey EX. It is a fairly easy job although being a bigger guy I struggled to get under the dash. I found using a mirror really helped as did removing the glove box for a bit more visibility. The bolts were too tight for a screwdriver, so I switched to a Torx bit ratchet. 03/16/23
I watched your Video and it helped me out a lot, with my Daughter's 2010 Honda Civic! I pulled out the Fan Motor and tested it by hooking it up to the Car Battery, and it worked. I took out the Resistor and bought a new one from the Honda Dealer for $70, and installed both. It works like new again! Thanks again for the Video!
Thank you for showing that it was underneath the dash. Other videos made it look like you had to go way behind the glovebox and it was certainly not the case.
Thanks for the video! Just replaced the resistor on my 2005 Element and the fan motor and A/C are blowing strong again. You saved me a lot of time and money. I appreciate it.
Awesome info. My wifey bought and old 2006 and the ac compressor was replaced before purchasing it.. then after and old changing the thing just stops working period kaput. Checked all relays and fuses but to no avail.. the I said to myself . The blower would still work even if it gets hot a/c. Cuts on thing s quick cut off. The relay is what I’ll go with first.. many many thanks .. my dad would always say go the cheapest way first before you jump in and start replacing everything..
Thanks! I checked the fuses and relay and they were OK. Replaced the fan motor switch and that fixed the problem. Bought the fan motor switch at AutoZone for $48.00. The dealer would have charged me $235 for diagnostic test and labor. Additionally, I would have been charged approximately $90 for an OEM fan the motor switch from the dealer.
Hey thanks for posting ! I have a 2005 accord that the fan quit in , got a replacement resistor at auto zone for 64 bucks stuck it in, fans working again ! Easy fix . Thanks
Thanks so much for this video. It was very helpful. My Honda is from 2002, a European built model. The cause of the problem was the same though. I checked fuses and relays, everything there was fine. I then bought a replacement resistor from a scrap yard and my air is now blowing again.
My fan was not working at all - Quick check everybody, with the ignition on and the fan turned on, go right to the plug connector at the blower motor, pull the connector out by pressing the tab in and pulling down. If you have a meter, set to DC with probes, go right into the connector If you have car battery voltage (15v) at this point the transistor is good and blower motor is NOT. I had 14v at the connector for the motor. So yes, you can have a bad blower motor.
Thanks so much for the step by step instructions I was able to change my resister out on my 2005 Odyssey with no trouble thanks to ur video thanks again!!!
Ok ... this is apparently a common issue with Honda 's particularly the 'Fit' (or 'Jazz' in some countries) and many other vehicles as well ... it occurs because the lower bearing which is one of 2 self aligning 'oillite' bronze type bushes 'picks up' and seizes on the lower part of the armature spindle. The spindle shaft is quite soft and any dirt or corrosion reduces the bearing clearance and causes it to seize. The motor itself is a "hard push" fit into the plastic housing but can be removed by judicious application of a deadblow hammer to said housing whilst holding motor body in a vice or similar .... lower bearing can then be lubricated and possibly freed up ... but you will most likely not return the unit to 'as new' friction less running ... for the US$50 odd its best to buy a new unit from Amazon or similar and refit that. Standard motor/Fan unit will draw 14A @ 13V and rotate at 2150 RPMs ... when the motor 'stalls' due to excessive friction from the seizing bearings the current (massive increase!!) overheats the fan resistor pack and its safety circuit solder melts opening the circuit so no wiring damage occurs.
The fan on my 09 Honda CRV works intermittently. Seems to work when I first start the car, but it will usually quit after a few minutes. Do you think the resistor might be the culprit? Fuse under the hood looks good. THANKS.
Hello, I have a 2006 Ridgeline, and can get no air moving about. Before it quit blowing, the blower made a lot of racket before it quit altogether, but before it quit, would come on if I hit a bump or pothole, but has now doing nothing. Does that sound like the motor or should I go with the resistor first? Thanks in advance.
Hi bro I have honda odyssey 07. My van radiator is losing a little antifreeze. And there isn't any sign of leaking. And my heat on driver side isn't blowing hot air.but passenger side blow medium air. I checked the actuator is working fine tks
Well ... that is too difficult to diagnose from afar. Could be something major like a head gasket leak to something minor like a radiator or heater core leak. Of course that could be a bunch of work to repair but minor none the less. Could also be a hose or any number of things. A professional diagnosis could cost anything from zero, to 1/2 hour, to an hour of shop time. Good luck and have it looked at if you are concerned about it.
The same problem as my car but now everything is working but the fan not spin when i press on vent mode, vent and floor, but i press on defrost fan spinning so any idea Sir. For the AC everything is work fine. Thanks
We can whack the cover that's under the glove box in the area of our MDX's blower, and the fan will start working again. My experience with this happening with engine starter motors is that it's a bad motor, but do you think it's still possible that it's the resistor in our case?
Hi, I have a Honda CRV 2010 and the A/C it’s ok with the cool air, the problem is with the hot air and defrost, don’t work, if I change this part fix mi issue? Thanks!
hi i have 07 honda civic 2007 fn type s my heater blow seems to work when it wants ,when it does work it heats fine and seems to run on all speeds sometimes if i ajust speed it goes off ,or it just goes off when it wants and comes on when it wants ,is this a relay switch fault or resister thanks. also its on right hand side ive been told above my clutch peddal cut i cant find it.
Sometimes broken fuses work when they are hot and they do not work at other times. I do not know how the motor is but I have not found them to go bad, but the bearing can wear out but that is more noise than function. So fuses or resistor could be the problem. You could have someone check it out them fix it yourself. Some places charge and some do not charge for diagnostics.
@@A_Renaissance_Man i have changed the fan and all is working fine thanks ,what a pig of a job on right hand drive cars thanks alot honda lol they qouted £460 .cost me £40 for the part from salvage yard .
Thanks for this video. I replaced the transistor, checked the fuse, changed the cabin filter, and see that the fan is still operating, yet I still do not get air to flow from my two front center vents on 2011 Pilot. AC flows from thru the back vents, and only a little from the front side vents. Any other suggestions I could try? Thank you!
Janet Smith Thank you for your comments. Stop the video at 0:35 and you will see the arrow pointing at the feet of the person. At the end of the video, the flow direction is correct. The arrow needs to be pointing at the person's head. Check to make sure the flow direction is set properly.
All I can say is follow the video. Check fuses and connections first. The replace the part. You can also pay someone to diagnose the problem and fix the problem yourself.
today is June 9 2019 and the AC is fixed on my 2008 Honda civic , I just replaced the motor and resistor this was the symptoms, it would not do nothing the clutch on the compresor would not engage the fan blower would not turn on, the only thing that would turn on was the little green light in the middle of the AC bottom and at times it would start working when slaming the door closed or a bump on the road, so I removed the cover under the glove box bumped the. motor with my hand and the blow motor would start working at same time I could hear the clutch on the compressor engage it would work so went the auto parts and bought the motor 90 plus tax and went ahead and bought the resistor 47 plus tax came home installed both of Them at the same time I did not wanted to install one at a time and damage one without the other. needles to say that priort all this I Did check fuses and relays, had me all Confused cause the AC clutch would not engage ither, As I said the only thing that would turn on was little green light on the middle of the AC bottom
I have a 2002 civic heater not coming on when I turn switch on no air coming out but if still has power to switch after car runs for a little bit I can fell heat coming threw vent but switch still not working
This repair only fixes the fan's blower speed. If your car is stuck in AC then the door that seperates them may be stuck or the actuator that switches between the two may be inoperative. GL. I hope you get it fixed.
I understand. Under the dash work is both mentally and physically painful. I wish I could help you with words, but the work is a matter of figuring out what and how to do it with tools at hand.
Hi David, I have a 2007 honda civic ex. blower fan not working... i checked the fuses under hood for motor. look good. I also replaced the old resister with a new one under glovebox... still not working... any ideas where to go from here? thx.
Make sure the control settings are set to blow the air through the vents you are checking for flow. I actually had the settings wrong in one of the scenes in the video.
@@skinzsoccer2 I just fixed my heat. 1- Resistor in dash above passengers side feet. 2- Blower motor. 3- The control panel on the dash that controls all your settings. I would just test all 3 and you'll see which one it is. The Blower motor if you tap on it and it comes on them it's the Blower motor for sure!
Both. The problem originates from bad blower motor. When it aged, it can no longer spin freely and needs higher current to push it to spin. Eventually the resistor will melt the contact inside it. Then the resistor will become in "bypass mode". Only level 4 setting works, not level 1-3. Switch between open and close air flow may trigger fan to spin because of the outside air comes in and give the motor a lift. So basically people with this problem have both defected resistor and blower motor (but not totally broken and both are repairable). I replaced both when the motor did not spin on some days and worked only on level 4 on the others. The resistor is $8 on EBay and the blower motor is $37. The tools needed are slot screwdriver(need one really long and one really short) for resistor and T25 Torx screwdriver (need both regular one and short one, better use Torx L-handle) for blower motor. The resistor is not really gone bad. I opened both new and old resistors up. I saw the difference. The contact got detached after the temperature was too high and melted. It can easily be soldered back. After I soldered it, the old resistor works again 100% with new motor and partially works with old motor if I switch between close and open air flow to give the old motor a lift. There are also RU-vid video showing how to wash the old blower motor with WD40 so it can spin more freely. But I choose to buy a new one since it is quite cheap on EBay and disassembly the motor into two parts needs a lot of work. The old motor had some noise since 18 months ago anyway. Time to replace it in my case.
Sounds like the flap that separates the heater core from the evaporator is stuck. The controlling actuator for the flap or the flap itself could be the problem.
For a continuity check you can just set the dial to sound, if you hear the tone the fuse is good. If you leave the fuse in the holder you can set the dial to Volts DC and look for 12 or more volts.
all you did was throw parts at that you should have shown people how to test a resistor how to test power into it test power out of it test were there power at the blower motor you just opened up the parts Cannon littelfuse and it happened to work
Did you even watch the video? He explained that, yes, he was throwing parts at it, but his parts-throwing was based on years of experience in which parts were most likely to fail. Upshot - he nailed it FIRST TIME. Either quit your whining or make your own video.
@@arguingwithstupidpeople2047 And not to mention when you guess and you decide that your direction should be a certain way you can still test things to show why your guess was correct
Hi, I have a Honda CRV 2010 and the A/C it’s ok with the cool air, the problem is with the hot air and defrost, don’t work, if I change this part fix mi issue? Thanks!
The repair shown only fixes the fan speed. Sound like you problem is with the vent that opens and closes the heater core box. Could be a vacuum leak or the controller on the dash that switches from one to the other.
