How To Build A 500HP 2JZ For Cheap Part 1: Teardown 

Yo had to pause the video, and let my mind speak, thanks man for being in detail and giving great info, been researching for a while and everyone else is a bit scarce.

This is ironically the first video I’ve seen with a full tear down to the head

Thank you so much for this very informative detailed video. 🙌🏼

Fantastic! love it!

Your videos are the best ..full on details and the guide is top notch

Great video mate, really informative and not full of waffle.

That was well done

Love all the information brother!

Seriously great content dude, thank you!

Good stuff 👍

I love that breaker bar 😂

Good vid 😀

Good video bro !!

How this video doesn't have more views is beyond me

nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you for your time and effort great video

Hell yeah!!!! Those are words that should go together! 2JZ and E36!!

Geez you were not kidding about the crank bolt, I cannot break that sucker. I’ve broken 2 breaker bars, and a wrench wedged between the flywheel bolts like you did. I just bought a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a 3/4 drive 22mm socket to see if that’ll work. I have no idea what else I can do if this doesn’t work. It’s soaking in some pb tonight.

👍🏼

hardest fighting bolt I have ever removed. 2jz crank bolt. Required 2 3/4 " breaker bars 2 jack handles 1 1x60" cheater pipe Countless heat cycles A Rachet strap. Almost flipping the engine twice. Oh and a heavy duty 22m crank socket and special harmonic balancer lock tool. It's removed lol

Nice and detailed, thanks. What transmission will you be using?

Where is part #2 man? I want to do the same as you man but I need more guidance. Thank you in advance for such a helpful video.

Would setting the crank at 60 degrees be the same for a gte as well? I’ve always been looking out for gte’s but seeing your videos is making me want to go ge instead.

Also, how similar were the mounting points on both engines? We’re they the same? I’m doing this exact thing your doing but putting the rebuilt engine with the non vvti shortblock from a 94 into my 99 gs300. Should I worry about making fabricated mounts or should I be okay? I ask because I haven’t picked up the other engine yet and before I do I’d just like to get an idea of what to expect

Can you take the rods out of a non vvti an put it in the vvti block with no issues

What size bolts did you use to mount the engine to the engine stand? I wanted to go out to buy the bolts before I pick up the donor engine tomorrow

I want to thank you for this you took a lot of the bullshit with doing a 2JZ in my 84 Hurst Olds . Getting the two engines was the way to go for sure . I went from looking at spending $30000 for a race 2JZ to doing about the same as your build just larger Turbo and better intake looking to make around 1700 HP and all this for around $3600 I know one thing for sure my car would never have a LS in it and to do a Oldsmobile engine was costing me 5 time what this cost , Thanks again

Did you test compression before you decided not to replace the piston rings on NON VVTI or valves VVTI head?

Question if I were to run just the vvti head onto the non vvti bottom block without boost will would I get a check engine light? Or no because they are the same and just the heads and pistons as stronger? I know you said the internals are weaker on the stock vvti bottom so that they are able to rev higher. I’m thinking of doing this in my is300 just not sure if the the ecu will trip out and throw codes. Or do I need an engine control management even though I’m not going to boost it at the moment?

Hey man, about to 2j swap my e46. What trans and rear end setup did you use on the e36?

Could you just replace the rods and pistons with newer stronger parts instead of buying another engine? Don’t have space for 2 and I’m trying to build my ge for 600hp

Hey man, i cannot find the video where you mentioned something about the alternator tab. I inspected my block and found the lower tab is cracked 😭

I was told that these engines use a quart of oil every 1200 miles, is that true or false?

Where did you source your non vvti engine?? I’ve been searching and searching

What did you estimate the cost to be had you gone into bottom end?

at 13:15 does that water neck has a gasket? because mine is leaking from there im losing so much coolant by that area.

Hey my friend, do you know how much power can handle the ge vvti piston? I already start my build but I trying to save a little money just replacing the gte rods and keep my eom ge piston thank you

Do have to take the crank pulley off??

Part 2 ?????

The service manual is a bit hard for me to understand. Now, I put my timing belt on but I lined all gears up to TDC (line not dot) while holding the vvti gear all the way clockwise so it wouldn’t rotate that 30°, everything stayed lined up and when I rotated the crank several times everything stayed lined up. Do you have to line up the dots on the cam gears and the crank 60° BTDC? If so why? Because I don’t feel any valve to valve contact, timing seems fine. And every other video just says follow the manual, but I’m just confused when reading the manual. My crank pully for some reason had no sun timing mark, and the cam gears on the ge head had no dots. I needed a new crank pully anyways so I now have a fluidampr pully and it’s got all the marks I need and the vvti head has the dots. Sorry for the long comment, I just want to make sure I’m not going to ruin anything

How much of a pain would it be to just swap the connecting rods? Seems cheaper than having two different engines

Would it be good to just upgrade the rods and keep the ge pistons

Part2?

Man, where’s your hot rod content? 🤔I’ve subbed for it and can’t wait.😅

Wish I had a garage like this to work on my engine

Hi bro can i contact you ? Ineed to ask you about another engine non-vvti

So can you answer me this: do you need the whole lower block from the non vvti or can you use the vvti block and replace the rods and pistons? Or would the rods and pistons not fit in the VVTI block? This has been confusing me. I’ve been looking for the non VVTI engine and there is nothing and if there is it’s like 3k anywhere near me

Just get some rods and the vvti would be good for more than 400

yoo where did u buy the nonvvti engine

How much is in ur e36

Is a 2jz ge or gte ?

Links to everything needed?

Is the vvti the same wiring harness as the non vvti?

You know the dimensions of the engine block?

Will this work with 200k on the dash lol

BMW using Toyota engine, opposite of Supra.

Genuine question, wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy rods instead of a whole new 2jz? They are pretty pricey nowadays 😂

Bro I didn't even get to see it finish and driving, I am currently in the process of purchasing a 2jzNA and have been following but ,don't know what happened 🤷🏿‍♂️ u just stopped filming

The service manual is a bit hard for me to understand. Now, I put my timing belt on but I lined all gears up to TDC (line not dot) while holding the vvti gear all the way clockwise so it wouldn’t rotate that 30°, everything stayed lined up and when I rotated the crank several times everything stayed lined up. Do you have to line up the dots on the cam gears and the crank 60° BTDC? If so why? Because I don’t feel any valve to valve contact, timing seems fine. And every other video just says follow the manual, but I’m just confused when reading the manual. My crank pully for some reason had no sun timing mark, and the cam gears on the ge head had no dots. I needed a new crank pully anyways so I now have a fluidampr pully and it’s got all the marks I need and the vvti head has the dots. Sorry for the long comment, I just want to make sure I’m not going to ruin anything