Great video, bought a no start mower with a new 42 inch deck just so I can put a new deck on mine and I ended up fixing the no start mower. So mine has been sitting doing nothing, decided to get it going again and use it as a back n forth property vehicle. Same engine as yours and I always enjoy watching videos like this keeps me sharp. Also saves me a lot of money. Thanks for your time and the good video 👍
Thank you so much for this video. I am such a novice with anything mechanical, but your pointers walked me through the process. Most importantly, you got my tractor running again. Much appreciated!!!
Mine started running rough a week back. You vid made it easy to clean the carb and get it running great again. Something I just realized is these carbs have no air/gas mixture screws. That just makes them that much easier to clean and service.. Also redid my oil leaking valve covers. Cut new gaskets and also used Permatex Right Stuff only on the valve cover side of the new gasket. put on finger tight for overnight and tightened in the morn. No leaks. Also made a gasket for the PCV that sits behind the carb with the rubber hose that leads into the carb. No more leaks anywhere on my once oily JD. Those oil leaks can lead to valve guide issues due to heating from the fins being oil/dirt covered.
Great videos! I subscribed. I have a question: Facing the front of the mower, on the left side of the carburetor, my throttle linkage that's spring loaded, has 2 holes in it. Which hole does the linkage arm go into? Mine fell out. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to do the video, I have the same 145 and it's a rust bucket, any idea where I can find the 1/4 inch screw that goes under the prefilter?
Your transmission may be low in oil or it's on its way out. You need to change the oil in your trans. I'd use 5W-50 synthetic oil by castrol. Or use Hy-Gard low viscosity hydraulic oil. I have a video on this procedure. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2_3tla8fLT8.html
Your video helped me remove and clean the carburetor on my john deere D140 with the same 22 hp Briggs. She runs alot better but still wants to cut off unless I increase the choke. Do you think maybe the fuel pump is failing?
The slack arm cable on your throttle is most likely off. They tend to break at 200 hrs. Its super simple. Bend a hook back at the end and slip in hole next to throttle arm
Might need a complete teardown and the main body put in a ultrasonic cleaner bath overnight. You can unhook the fuel line and start he motor. If the fuel comes out of line at a pretty good rate your pump is fine.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic The fuel pump was working so I removed and throughly cleaned the carburetor once again. Now she's running good as new. Thanks again.
Mine is the 24 horse but ... My carb was loose. It'd run for a while until it got hot then die. Choke it and it ran enough to get in the shed. Once cool...Fine again. I tried all sorts of things then finally took the carb off. Upon inspection it was obviously leaking at the intakes. I think the bolts stretch... They're glued in with red locktite. They did not work looose. Has to have stretched or were just never tight.
I have this carb. It was running poorly on first startup after winter then died. Looking in the carb i could see fuel running in and then dripping out the bottom. Seemed like way to much fuel. I assume I need a rebuild kit?
Turn the fuel valve off then run it dry to store it. I use stabilizer in every tank because of using outboards. My boat only gets used in winter for duck hunting. Backwards eh? Fuel stabilizer...every tank and forget about summerizing-winterizing. The alcohol is what kills our engine's gaskets and o-rings.
I have a question: followed your video very good I might add! Briggs & Stratton 27HP, very similar carb, slightly different jet system. Cleaned everything, all jets clear, reassembled, not cowling & air filter yet; attempted to start 3 blasts, ie filling carb with fuel again? then fires up, running well. Ran for 2 mins, turned off fitted cowling not air filter yet. Tried to start, 3 blasts of about 3 seconds starts again all good, running well. Go for a leak come back won't start, ie 6/7 3-4 second blasts, spray a small amount of petrol in air inlet. Then fires up runs lumpy for 15 secs, then all good, turn off won't start. Spray small amount of petrol again all good, running well turn off won't start again even within 3 seconds. This was the original problem, ie why I cleaned the carb in the 1st place. Any ideas. The only thing I didn't remove was the air inlet manifold, as you didnt in your video. Electrics seem fine & battery/starter turn the engine over like a freight train & once running all good??? bizarre obviously not a serious problem, just a real pain. I think the Mower shop in Oz/NT would be 6-8 hours of labour & some spurious unnecessary parts & 2 -3 weeks wait. I'd appreciate any ideas?
Does it start with the choke 'on' when warmed up? Was the rubber gasket on the intake in good shape? Another thing you can check or replace: remove the intake from the carb, (I think you have to remove the throttle plate and all 4 studs, then you remove the intake. Remove the black piece that has 5 holes in it (intake side). Check the gasket behind it, its probably bad. Clean the ports too.. Hope this helps.
Hi Thanks for your advice, did as you said & re-cleaned the whole carb with higher pressure air, but especially those 5 jets in the air inlet. Put it all back together, started 2nd blast, runs smoother better & revs a bit more, so all good, problem solved, Yay! I think I'll start my own business, I can buy a new Carb in Oz for $37.00, probably easier to replace the Carb each time? Thanks for your help really appreciate it!
I’ve watched a lot of carb rebuild done on utube but I have yet to see any one put lock tight 222 on butterfly’s screws Your taking a chance of the screw or both going into cylinder and damaging piston s …
I pulled the stem from mine to put in the ultrasonic. Found the jets came out. Went to put them back in and noticed they were two different sizes. Cant find anything online about why or which is supposed to go where. The only thing i can think is the larger one needs to go to the cylinder that drives the fuel pump? Any ideas?
