Thanks Mike! I inherited my Dad’s 228F and I’m having issues with both the control valve which is frozen and the pressure valve and the ball isn’t engaging. No pump action at all. There was fuel in that’s been sitting since forever. He left me 7 of them so I’m trying to repair this one. Thanks.
Yes, I am. There really is no one that just sells parts in Canada. You can try to visit older Home Hardware stores, older sport shops and Canadian Tire. You can also just collect random lanterns for parts. The best thing to do is join some Canadian Facebook groups and tell the group what you are looking for. Like me, most lantern collectors have spare parts or even new parts. I do have/make tools, burner screes and burner caps. Cheers
I have searched all over the internet and can't find any how to for fixing a stuck carburetor cleaner level. Can you make a how to for that? I have an old coleman lantern with a stuck carb cleaning lever that won't budge.
Thanks for commenting. I’m assuming you are referring to the tip cleaner lever. The lever that rotates and cleans the jet. This can be difficult to free up. Check first that it’s not on to tight. If not, remove it and soak it in penetrate. If that does not free it up, put it in a vise, heat it up with a propane torch. Let it cool down a bit and rotate the lever using some pliers. Cheers.
I really like your videos. You have helped me with building wood cases and clean my 220 without complete disassembly. Keep up the good work. Carb cleaner worked.
Mike. Thanks for the demo on the viniger and check valve boiling. I am going to try that on a 220F that responded perfectly to everything except the carb clean fix of the check valve. Do we need to put the valve in water after the viniger boil or is the acid OK on the brass?
I guess you have to determine if it’s actually the check valve. How’s the cap? How is the valve assembly? Is their a pinhole in the tank? Can you blow air into the full hole and hear air come out the CV/pump tube? If it’s the check valve, it may need to be removed and cleaned outside of the tank. If you can get it out, try boiling it in vinegar. Cheers.
Hello, Mike! Thanks for your video. Is it possible to remove the valve with an ordinary flat screwdriver? Or is there a possibility of damaging the valve?
Hello, It is "possible" but I don't recommend it. When I first started fixing lanterns I didn't have the CV tool and I did get some CV's out using a large screwdriver but I also ruined a few. The CV is made out of brass and the slots are malleable... YMMV. I figured out how to make a CV tool and never had a issue since. If it's a newish lantern you may be able to spray some anti-seize down the pump tube and let that site overnight then try. It's hard to get a positive engagement and use the "crack" method to break the CV free with just a screwdriver. Like I said, It can be done but not something I would do anymore. cheers.
I just got a 226 lantern and I'm thinking the check valve is faulty...I got it full of fuel and sat for a decade. I've oiled the filler cap, oiled the gasket and pump. Nothing No compression what so ever..even when the pump is turned closed, you can pump freely.
Even if the CV is faulty, you should be able to pump air into the tank… it will just some back out the pump tube when you lift your thumb off. You should be able to open the cap and hear air rush in when you are pumping. If not, I suspect your pump cup may be at fault as well. Cheers.
Thanks for your comments. Those lanterns are pretty modern. The fount, Check Valve and caps are all the same principles. The valve assembly is a different than the older lanterns. If that’s what’s it leaking, it can be fixed but sometimes it’s just easier to replace that assembly.
@@MikeFreda I managed to remove the checkvalve from my 286A, and after blasting solvent through the ball valve it appeared to be working! But once assembled in the lantern, sadly it still leaks air.. I live in Ontario, Canada. Do you have any ideas where I can order a new checkvalve from?
Excellent presentation here .. love the MSR dragonfly camp stove in action ... I converted a 295 D/fuel to run on Kerosene , the generator kept clogging... any North star lantern tips there Mike ?.. thank you
Thanks for the comment. I don't have much experience on Northstars. A bit to new for me. lol What you are saying is very common for White gas to Kero conversion. I've done that to a few lanterns and that just happens. Unless the lamp is 100% designed to run Kero this is an issue. The 639's run flawlessly on Kero but if you look at the parts they use it is a lot different than other lanterns of this style. All I can suggest is run a better quality of Kero. Some people mix it for good results. Cheers
Hey Mike, it's Mike...lol. I didn't have carb cleaner left, but I did have mass air flow cleaner. I removed the pump and rod, filled the chamber halfway and dumped it out a couple times because it just looked horrible. Once it was cleaned, I let the MAF cleaner do it's work for a couple hours. Then I put it together and tried to pump it, but still wouldn't pump. So I sprayed some more MAF cleaner into it and waited another hour. Was about to order the check valve tool, but I thought I give it another go. At first, same thing and then I tried pumping with a little more force and Bam!!! The check valve broke free and I was able to pump it up! Thanks so much for this video! Saved me from buying a tool.
Thanks for commenting. Glad it worked out. You can also poke the check ball with a piece of wire to get it to move. The CV still may a small air leak if there is some left over residue. Keep a look out for that. If that is the case you may try the Carb Cleaner trick again but it's been my experience that the CV will need to be removed for a more aggressive approach to cleaning it. Cheers.
@@MikeFreda Thank for the tip. I did do a test fire of my lantern and didn't hear any hissing sounds before and after start up. But will keep my ears open...
You can but it is not recommended. The CV is made out of brass and if the CV is old and has never been out you will probably damage the CV. Screwing the rod down doesn’t make for a 100% seal especially if the threads are worn out. If the CV is really bad the air will escape almost immediately. Furthermore, some CV's can be stuck closed, meaning you can’t get any air into the tank so it basically needs to come out. Cheers.
I’m not savvy on SGM products. I have made AGM check valve removal tools for lanterns. I’m not sure what the stove check valve look like. Are they the same?
Got a "tested and working" 220F in the mail today. Disaster. First, the pump cup wouldn't even work. Oiled and got working. Second, 3 piece gas cap had rotten seal. Used a spare 1 piece for checking Third, pumped and check valve broken. Tested and working my @$$. Seller says "just make a claim and return". BS. .first of all this thing was a safety hazard. He says his buddy "restores" these for him. Well this one failed in every way. Haven't even gotten to see if generator bad yet. So rather than lose $18 I paid to ship to me I'm keeping and fixing. Yes I have to buy the removal tool for like $43 but I can use it for others if needed in my collection. Guy didn't take any responsibility just said "these things happen". Yeah ok the old man who restores for you literally left everything bad. I'm keeping it but that was the worst eBay experience I ever had. Going to try your way without removing before tool gets here. It's a nice lantern in great condition.
Thanks for commenting. Sounds like a raw deal! Hopefully you can fix it up. Realistically, everything lantern I have collected I typically give it a rebuild regardless of what people say then you know it’s good to go. Cheers.
Mike, I have a 425f Coleman stove. Been sitting a long time. I can pump it up and get a lot of resistance on the pump but it doesn’t seem to pressurize the tank. I can remove the fuel cap and there’s no pressure, no hiss. Also not sure about pump. I can have it snug going clockwise, but I only have to move it maybe 1/16” to the left and I can pull it out and pump it. Any ideas? Thanks
When it come to these Stove's (and lanterns) there is only a few things that will stop it from being pressurised. 1.) The cap. The seal is to hardened. 2.) The Check Valve at the bottom of the pump tube. 3.) The air tube 4.) The tank has a hole in it. For the cap, install a different one or replace the seal. Clean the check valve or install a new one. If/when you remove the check valve, install the pump and see if you can can get air into the tank. If you can, then the air tube is clear. To see if the tank has hole in it, try to pump it up and submerge it under water. I suspect it's the cap seal and check valve. The other two issues are more uncommon. cheers.
funny youtube suggested this to me, i got a brand new 295 in the mail today and the check valve was stuck closed right out of the box. wasn't able to pump it at all. took out the cup and sprayed some kroil down there, by the time i put it back together it broke free.
I contacted you per your recomendation on the tool you made for fixing air tubes but never heard back. Can you send some contact information so I can order the air tube tool? Thank you.
Hi Mike, I have a check valve removal tool but need one that is short enough to get into a Coleman 530 pump well without removing the pot stand bracket as the screws are completely seized. Any way you could help me out?
Thanks for your comment. Thats odd that a standard Check Valve tool would not fit. The pump tube is on an angle and the pump stem does extend out. As long as your tool is a bit shorter than that then it should work. That being said, I do make shorter Check Valve tools but I’m not familiar with the 530 stoves check valve. I’m not sure what it actually uses. Cheers.
Thanks for the video, my Coleman lantern isn't pressurizing at all. I can pump 50 times and no pressure at all. Should I spray carb cleaner in there and try that? Thanks.
You can try that but I would try and see where the air is escaping from. The Cap? The CV tube or perhaps you have a pinhole in the tank/fount. The other thing to look at is the leather pump cup actually working correctly.
@@MikeFreda ok thank you for the swift reply. As far as I can tell, it's not building any pressure no matter how much I pump, I don't hear any air leaking. I oiled the pump, mine is newer so it is rubber and not leather. I sprayed cleaner in there, and letting it sit for a while, maybe that will fix it, thanks again.
Interesting. Even if the Check Valve is faulty, it’s hard for fuel to make its way up the air tube. If the air tube is broken and the CV does not seal it would do that. Also, if the CV socket is compromised, then it would leak fuel in the shaft. Unfortunately, if it’s either of that it would be a really hard fix. Most people would just find a new fount. I’d start with removing the check valve and cleaning it. Putting it back in and pumping it up then looking down the tube to see if any bubbles leak from the CV socket. Good luck.
@@MikeFreda thanks for the fast reply mike yeah i removed both the shaft and the check valve.... there are bubbles leaking from inside the check vale housing. while pumping fuel even shoots out the end of the thumb hole.... i really want to fix this fount because its brass, not steel. they only made them for a few years in WWII. its really cool looking. any ideas ?
Please click the link to my website that is in the Description Section of the video. There is also a Email link in the "About" section on my youtube page. Thanks
Hi Mike. Carb cleaner is great, but there’s absolutely no reason to remove the check valve. After soaking the valve with carb cleaner, blow into the pump tube, and with a wooden kebab skewer tap it gently onto the steel ball in the check valve, until it spits back, which it will after a few seconds.
Thanks for commenting. That doesn’t work all the time. I’ve rebuilt and serviced several 100 lanterns and sometimes the CV need to be removed, cleaned and /or replaced. Sometimes a small piece of debris gets in there and carb clean is not aggressive enough to clear it. I’m glad you are able to just to that, many can… I’m not so lucky. Cheers.
Carb cleaner has NOT worked on either of my lanterns. Yayyyyyy 😢. I have spent 2 days messing with these lanterns. I am bound and determined to fix them. I'm insane🤣.
A few weeks ago my sister gave me a 1/1963 200A Birthday Lantern and it was/is in rough shape. After over a week of shooting carb cleaner down the tube and pumping it through and letting it sit over night, I bought a CV removal tool. I soaked it in carb cleaner and then vinegar. The whole fount is cleaned out, the CV is back in and it still leaks pretty badly. The pump shaft still quickly pushes my finger up when placed over the hole and air rushes out. My next move is to pull the CV again and boil it in vinegar and see what happens when I put it back in and see if it still leaks. I had a huge screw driver and filed it down to fit but even after putting penetrating fluid on it the screw driver would not budge it so that's when I got the removal tool so I didn't break the CV. Great videos!
Mike- thanks for the video. I boiled the check valve in vinegar and installed it. It still barely bubbles/fizzes a little fuel out just a bit when you look directly down at it. it's from a 413e stove from the 50's. one of my old 502 stoves do the same thing. Is this normal ? also doesn't have an 0-ring.wasn't sure if they all came with an o-ring. Thanks for any help!
CV’s in this era did not have o-ring. Some Old CV’s do leak a bit but seal up when you screw in the pump rod. What you can do is pump it up and screw in the rod and put a little soap on the pump thumb hole. If it still leaks then you may need a new check valve or the CV socket may be comprised at the bottom of the pump tube. Cheers.
