The key to best performance of this pump is to also buy the CEM and the SWM and a foot of their harnesses. The CEM handshakes the car's configuration ID with the pump via the CAN bus so the pump does not go into limp home mode. The SWM sends the steering wheel data to the pump via CAN bus so that the pump will increase its RPM to pump more fluid when the steering is turned aggresively. Limp home the pump spins at about 1700RPM. With the above 2 modules it will spool up to 4500RPM when needed. The pressure rating is 1700PSI.
@@MarnellBalmeo it is a algorithm in the EPS. The lower the speed and the quicker the speed is the higher the RPM of the EPS. So if the car is not moving and you crank hard on the SW, the EPSgoes to maximum RPM. I have the EPS, CEM, and SWM and the EPS responds immediately to how I turn the SWM. The RPM varies in order to fill the fluid void caused by moving the steering, it isn't to increase PSI. The EPS can pump the full 1700PSI at the 1700RPM low through to the 4500RPM max. FYI: the 2EPS impellers are only 1/2" high and 11/16" diameter each. Hence the 1700RPM minimum speed.
Did that in my Land Rover restoration project. Added a 555 30-sec delay timer and an LED to the dashboard to indicate when the pump was up to proper speed when ign was turned on
Oooh just about to hit 10K! Big congrats. Just a note I hope you put either a shield around the pump or some kind of sleeving over the lines and fitting so just in case there is a leak you don't get sprayed with hot fluid!
Could the steering response lag be due to having longer hydraulic lines than the stock setup? Now I know hydraulic fluid is supposed to be uncompressable, but there still might be some effect of longer lines. Also, if there were any air left in the lines, that might account for the lag. Those loops in the line might prevent air bleed. I wanted to bring up the possibility that the fault might not be the pump, or the computer control of the pump. One other person commented about a fail-safe for the power steering. I imagine this might trick the computer running the pump at a low pressure whenever it looses feedback from the unit. It might be interesting to force the fail-safe mode and see if the responsiveness improves. This would indicate a control issue, instead of a pressure issue like might be caused with longer lines.
Problem with those is that if you don't send the correct CAN codes for steering angle, speed etc they run in failsafe mode which is the correct power for the original vehicle running at around 35mph. Way too much assistance for higher speeds and/or a lighter vehicle. The speed of the pump is supposed to vary according to load etc.
I've put acouple hundred miles on this already and it feels like a normal PS. Only thing that I noticed is if you constantly switch directions like you would in autocross there seems to be a brief lag. I've taken it from low speed to normal speed crusing upwards 100mph+ and feels like a normal PS. So even if it was in fact in failsafe, I couldn't tell the difference between this and normal PS.
@@brandonl1840 Yes. I actually built a Volvo C30 race car and I started off with the normal system. I didn't run any of the standard computers in the car (there are 13 of them) so there was nothing controlling the pump. I tried to get the CAN codes from Volvo so I could program an Arduino system but they wouldn't tell me but they did tell me about it running in failsafe mode. I even bought a CAN sniffer and setup it up on another car so I could capture the codes. I couldn't figure out which ones were which though. There are a lot of people on EV forums with the same issues, someone has done it as there is a video on RU-vid of one being controlled out of the car but he won't reply to messages. I guess a lot of it is down to what type of cars people are used to driving and what roads they drive on. True PAS is variable and responds to the speed of the car and how much steering angle and load there is. For a race car this pump in failsafe mode is terrible as it's far too light when cornering at 100mph or even 50mph. For the wide open roads in the USA you probably would never notice and they are fine for drifting as many pro drifters use them (they generally use two though due to volume issues). I went for a fully electric column in the end which has rotary dial. That way I can have it on high when moving around the pits and paddock but adjust it right down for racing.
Lol I have found what the electric ps on my RX is. I’ve been looking at all these vids and my rack and my pump looks way diff then the other rx8… then I saw this thumbnail
I have it on a toggle switch. I snapped a pulley on my serpentine belt a while back and I'm glad this is on a toggle. It's nice being able to have PS when your engine is off lol
Do you have a complete standalone? If so who taught you to wire it? I have a s13 with a 1uzfe and need to make a completely new standalone harness and my motor doesn’t have a pin out. Any suggestions?
I have a video on here of me doing my wiring. I found alot of information on RU-vid and Google but it's an LS so it's pretty well documented. I'm not familiar with the 1uz so maybe start with the forums.
Hey man I just did this same thing. No leaks or anything but when the pump is running the steering wheel just shakes left and right like by itself... run into this ? Any ideas ? 😠
There an issue when the can bus wires aren't connected mainly heavy steering under quick steering, with the can bus missing its not able to ramp up pump speed , typically under fast steering it'll pull 40 amps , you need to find away to fix this issue of heavy steering when under fast response.
Thanks, yea that is definitely noticeable when I tested multiple quick change in steering direction(going lock to lock). I have decided this isnt an issue yet, when I take this car for autocross or HPDE event this summer I will decide if it will need to be fix or not.
No space in the front guard. Maybe if my setup is different, with hood dumps exhaust you can't hear the pump 🤣. I was also trying to avoid adding weight up front since the car is already front heavy
Steering feel is pretty good, I don't think I'd want it any lighter. Not sure I follow, what's the difference between the rack? Should be the same. Though noise on a car that has hood dumped exhaust is hardly a concern 😅
