How to Install 220v outlet in Garage the Easy Way = Run from Basement 

Michael Werbick I know right, one of the reasons I wanted this house!

I was thinking that when I saw it as well 😂

It depends, it's usually not required by code and is generally up to the installer but definitely a good idea to do it!

240 still makes me uncomfortable lol

oobaka1967 haha looking back, that could have saved me some time!

Hahahahahahahaha

That’s the new style of running wire bro lmao!!

I wouldnt have thought of it like that...lol..but its correct.

Can I run the power wiring like this with no tubing or something else if I have drywall ?

I have the same situation like your to use the 240v from the hot tub outside at the deck for my EV charging port. Did you run the wire from the outside and go along the siding of the house and get through the wall at the basement? Send me some photos if you don’t mind.

Thank you!!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

don't use 10/2 for an ev charger, it should more than likely need 6/3 or larger as they are 50-60amp draws

I never considered that... thanks for sharing!

Dang Nguyen sorry for the confusion. I had to do it that way because there was a 2x10 behind the 1/2 drywall.

Oh good idea, that makes perfect sense... thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

ianjsutt haha 😂

Thought Same thing .

OOF! Well, we all have those moments.

hahaha

Everyone will have their ways. It’s done and clean 🧽

Great point!

I was also planning down the road, in case I got a more powerful welder (finally got one last year!)

@@6thGearGarage I guess the motor has a thermal overload to prevent itself from melting.

You are correct. The conduit is for when running wire vertically down or up a wall.

You have the right idea, but I can't say for sure that 6/2 and 50a breaker will be correct for your application.

Glad an actual electrician watched this and didn't give me a list of things I did wrong!

I have a 220v outlet for 30amp. I see you have a 50amp outlet. Can you tell me the difference? I'm doing same 10-2 wiring and 30amp breaker

The only thing that bugs me is the white wire == hot. Even with tape on the end, I would never do that to the next "guy" to come along. You can get red-black-ground. (or just spend the extra $8 and get 4-wire. What would you do @vaint ?

​@@fshalor738 2 wire and tape, thats the standard up here in Canada. We usually do a much cleaner job with the taping, we tape the entirety of the visible conductor or as much as we physically can.

@@altvibr Or heat shrink black or Red tubing over the exposed wire? I have seen some recommend doing that. Tape might get unraveled.

Sorry I'm really not qualified to answer that.

I'm still not sure I know what I'm doing lol

6th Gear Garage 😂😂😂

thats what breakers are for!...lol

Thanks and welcome!

I recommend asking a professional, as I'm not an electrician.

If your welder uses 50A I’d oversize the breaker as u don’t wanna exceed 80% of the total ampacity of the circuit if you wanna avoid popping the breaker

Same. any some the breaker box needs work, I consult a professional. Better safe than sorry.

Thank you for the professional advice. I will mention it to the person who helped me. Is there any danger in leaving it the way we did it? I only ask because it was wired the exact same way in the last garage I had this compressor in - not saying that makes it correct. I also did not realize that the Siemens breaker shouldn't be used in this box (couldn't find anything else at Home Depot to fit).

@@6thGearGarage The danger comes in when someone tries to plug in a device that uses 120/240 as this receptacle does not provide a proper ground. This was a common configuration way back in the day before code officials realized that non-insulated and ungrounded appliances are a pretty significant safety hazard. These outlets and plugs really shouldn't be sold any more, but grandfather laws being what they are caused them to stick around long after they should have relegated to a museum. Another thing is that if you are using a compressor with a significantly lower Full Load Amp rating than the breaker on the circuit, the compressor should have a thermal overload device of some kind. (Anything from a properly sized manual motor starter, thermally protected motor, etc will suffice.). There are many ways for new gamers to get tripped up when dealing with electricity. (I've been at it > 20 years and still learn something every day) I encourage you keep learning and consult with professionals, other RU-vidrs, etc. Just remember, the only stupid question is the one that is never asked. Edit: I just remembered a fun anecdote from my apprenteship. The 10-50 outlet used to be used for ranges, and in an effort to make these appliances "safer" electricians used to bond the frame of ranges to the neutral so any fault current would be carried through the neutral back to the service panel. This worked fine in most cases, except for when the main neutral connection became corroded or went high resistance. This caused these appliances to become live at 120V due to the aforementioned bonding of the neutral and ground. (The clock and timers are almost always 120V and a constant load on the neutral) let's just say I learned the hard way to not touch old appliances when searching for a faulty neutral connection in a home.

Always interesting to look at installations in different countries, and reading about this, that central pin is a neutral and grounding via neutral was once legal in US systems. I know that neutral is bonded to ground in the distribution panel, but it does seem to breech the principle that protective earths ought to be separate. Given the North American split phase system, I wonder why it hasn't just standardised on a four pin outlet for 240v and then the appliance can use whatever pins are necessary for its operation. Perhaps it's the cost of requiring 4 core cable. That two hot plus neutral plug for a worktop compressor strikes me as less than optimal.

Steve Jones We do, it's called NEMA 14 and has been required for about 30 years. These NEMA 10 outlets are only allowed for replacing like for like in old houses, so installing a new one like this violates code. The compressor cord should be changed to a NEMA 6 (or L6 for the twist- lock variant), which has two hots and ground, no neutral.

M VanSumeren you are correct sir!

Gregory Leppert no, I just didn’t think about that when I installed it😂. I want to flip it one of these days

I'd ask an electrician, I'm not sure if that is code or not.

Also: welder. Down the road. !

I measured on the outside of the wall in the garage, and then measured the same distance (minus the thickness of the wall) on the inside of the basement ceiling.

Thank you

I haven’t done that before.

No permits needed in my area. But I also live out in the country. Some cities may have different requirements.

@@6thGearGarage I guess I have to call the township then. There’s nothing about it on their website.

No need for 10-3 in this application, 10-2 is all I needed and less expensive.

Yes, once you press it in it is live.

@@6thGearGarage You’ve done me a service

I'd ask a real electrician, I don't know.

Why not?

No..must be stranded cable for flexibility..i think it's called "s.o."

I never realized that, thanks!!

That's crazy... I should have invested in copper wire.

Right?! Almost unbelievable! Also thanks for the awesome video! I got my dryer wired up in 30 minutes 🤟

I think by doing the breaker first, you won't get zapped when installing it if there is a problem with the wiring of the outlet. By doing the breaker first and switching it off to wire the outlet, you only have to worry about the breaker kicking off when switching it of for the first time, not getting zapped while you have a screwdriver in your hand attaching a wire. Or at least that's my best guess. Thanks for watching!

I added the new breaker.

@@6thGearGarage did you have an open spot for it?

@@michaelgarcia2641 yes there were available spaces in the panel.

Kurt Riedmuller thats crazy! The snap on was my dad’s from when he started out as a mechanic. The HD was won at an auction in the late 90’s. I keep all the oddball tools and stuff I don’t use often in the HD so it doesn’t get beat up.

@@6thGearGarage that's cool I bought my HD box new from snap on when I first started as a mechanic and the red snap on box I had a friend give me the top box for my home garage and then my snap on dealer had the bottom and the side cabinet in from a trade so I bought it to match my top box ... now I'm looking to build a home shop pole barn to work on my projects!!

@@kurtriedmuller8223 LMK If you're in Ohio, I can recommend the guys that built mine.

@@6thGearGarage thankyou but I'm in Illinois

I would consult an actual electrician, I'm not an expert.

You would need a breaker that is rated for the outlet receptacle. Dont ever try to safe money and cut corner on it buddy. It could cost more damage than savings. I'm an Electrician. Fire hazard

That would be a question for a qualified electrician, which I am not.

There should be a main breaker running that box that would trip if you ran everything at once which won't happen unless you turn everything on at once lol

When the breaker box breaks you will know

Yeah, I still need to do that

It is 10-2 wire.

You could, but not for simultaneous use. In my old shop I had one 220 line with two plugs on opposite sides of the shop. One for compressor and one for welder, two things I would never use at the same time. If the compressor kicked on while I was welding it would trip the breaker.

Good eye!

No I did not

@ianjsutt Yeah put the breaker in in the OFF position and after everything is wired up I switch it to ON. I used to shut off the main switch to the entire house too when I was first learning to do this stuff. It made me feel less worried but eventually I got tired of resetting all of the clocks.

If unsure, shut it all off. The time to reset something isn't worth being fried over. Think of it as saving a little money by having everything shut off for once.More so, shut if off if you aren't 100% sure every single thing in your house is wired correctly. One faulty tie-in and it won't matter if that breaker is off or on.

@ianjsutt This is actually the way you should do it, seasoned or not.

Nice setup but I’m really not qualified to answer. I would consult an actual electrician.

Marco, you would have to make sure that the amperage rating for the heater was matching the Amperage rating of the wire from the panel and that the breaker also matched it. Also a EV often uses a higher Amp circuit, i.e. 50 Amp. So that would not match the amperage rating for the heater I don't think. Most of the heaters are 30 Amp required. So in your case you may want to get an electrician to help you out. Good Luck!

Some are 220 and some are 110. Just depends on the model.

Yes it is not needed when running through the floor joists, only when running wire down the wall to an outlet.