I have watched a few of your videos, and your patience for giving proper instruction over production is incredible! I also appreciate that you remove to common sense aspect and just teach at ground level! You're great at what you do.
Those 1 Pc Bolt kits suck. Even when they have a bottom plate they always wobble. It is better to buy taller posts and recess them into the Floor System fastened with bolts
I agree with Trevin. Your videos are informative; you are focused and teach in a very sequential manner. That's important. You're not all over the place and you explain exactly what you're doing and why. Thumbs up!
Shannon my friend- a man of your high abilities should definitely be clamping that post to the workbench before you use the 5/8 spade bit(not balancing with your hip): let's teach the young ones the right way to do everything, even small details, as you know are critical to fine woodworking
I keep running into your videos everytime I need a little help . Im an electrician for almost 40 yrs and been bought very old homes that weve lived in after renovating . Ive seen alot over the years being on jobs and getting advice from other tradesmen but your videos are priceless. Thank you
I always notched a longer newel, cut a small hole in the floor so the post would just fit and slide down into it along side of the joist. I would PL Premium glue it then bolt it in the basement in two or three places shimming as necessary. My posts didn’t move.
I watched 5-6 videos before getting to yours and it was worth the wait. Finally a video that actually educates instead of mindless babble about stuff they’re unsure of. This guy knows his stuff.
Another fantastic video. I can’t explain how much I love your content and it’s not just because you’re another fellow Canadian, you’ve helped me do so many projects around the house. I’ve recently bought and moved into another house built in the 60s and so many of your videos have helped me do some Reno’s. Don’t know where me or any of my places would be without your content since you’re so clear/ cut & dry with your content it’s so easy to follow and understand.
been looking at alot of videos about how to install or tighten newel post and bottom line there are a ton of ways to do it. if you have an older house with a loose post, no telling what kind of system you have under there...until you cut open the floor or walls
I have seen and unfortunately used the babies of this bolt in Ikea furniture but never knew they grew to adulthood which is nice to know. If I was installing these bolts I would have to make a jig to keep the drilling in the vertical coz I am hopeless at keeping it plum which is why I have a shitty bench press drill for as many holes as I can. Thank you for enlightening me to the existence of the bolt and *Thank You* for sharing. It is muchly appreciated. 👍👍
Quick tip, we install newel posts using various systems, for a stronger installation cut your plywood with a multitool where the post will be, apply glue to the joist before sliding the post in the bolt, if a joist is not present attach a cross brace between joists, good luck!
Would be great to see a how to on moving a set of interior stairs. I have stairs in the middle of room that we want to move to an exterior wall in order to provide more room for a kitchen reno.
No offense but how is this considered stable? That post is going to bend back and forth when it's used. I get that it's easy but at what cost? I guess it's cheap and easy considering the alternative
This guy is really good at explaining and demonstrating. It's his project so, it's his business but I would FREAK OUT if my trim carpenter was working on top of the new kitchen cabs. I'm sure my home owners would call me too. Lol, but great video. Thanks for the help.
@@HouseImprovements LOL, as long as you're comfortable doing it... great video on the newel post install. We did one set of stairs last year and now, it seems like I'm doing them in every project so it's great to see someone do it that has the experience, thanks.
I do stairs for a living and just wanna point out a couple things. 1- that post is not solid at all, it shouldn't move like that, especially a newel positioned like that where its a grabbing point when people hit the top of the stairs and go around 2- Definitely needs some glue on the bottom of that post, youd be amazed how much strength it adds. Newels should be on top of finished floors also, idk what the flooring plans are here though
Hey Shannon, with a situation like this, could you install it upside down? Have the course thread going into the post, and the cam in the joist, that way you wouldn't need a plug and could always adjust later when materials shrink. Cheers, Kenny.
@@Pepe-dq2ib Yeah that's why I mean, for this specific installation (or any where the joists are accessible), installing it inverted would yield a superior result in less time for less money 🤙
@@kyzenlanx dont know about less time and money if you're still using the same system, the post would definitely look better though. What other system or method are you speaking or thinking of? All i can think off is using a 8-10" lag bolt and screw it into the post and then cut the head off so you can use the end for a nut later. Then drill a hole through the top of joist half way and a socket hole on the side so you can get a nut and washer in there to tighten the post down with a wrench.
@@Pepe-dq2ib Less time because the hole for the nut doesn't have to be pretty or plugged (no need for the blue tape or fancy forstner bit), less money because you don't need to buy the plug, better install because the post doesn't need to be plugged, and you're able to access the not up snug it down if it every gets sloppy. This is a great bit of kit for all the reasons Shannon explained, I just saw an opportunity to take advantage of the installation, which would have saved going to the store to grab a plug. Personally in this situation (where you have access from beneath), I would use a 12" lag, countersunk up into the joist, with a big washer on it up stop it pulling through the pine. Good tight arse solutions, with less stuffing around and the option of snugging it down later if any slackening happens 👌
@Gunga Din You're relying on the threads either way. Even though there's a cross grain/end grain argument to be made. But, shit is in tension, so all this bending stuff isn't an issue.
Hi great video,I have a question about the hole to be drilled on the side of the post to insert the top part of the Zipbolt. You mention that the drill bit to use is 1 1/2 inches. But on the ZipBolt packaging, it says to use a 1 1/2 or 35 mm drill bit. However, if you convert a 1 1/2-inch bit into mm, it comes out to 38.1 mm. So, what is the size of the wood plug (1 1/2 inches, 38.1 mm or 35 mm)? Thank you.
Interesting , I actually see now in my video where I showed the instructions on the screen they had 35MM also and that would be incorrect as you said. Measure your wood plug to be sure. I had to buy my own plug so it was 1-1/2", i'm not actually aware of metric plugs.
I love watching your videos! You do a great job explaining and teaching! This is our next home project..the timing is perfect. Can you share where you purchased those newel posts and railings?
12/30/2023_2:47 pm: Good afternoon Shannon! This is the first time I am watching your video. Thank you for the way you teach and explain how and why you are, in this case, installing posts for the staircase handrails. You make it easy for a beginner like me, to follow you; that's why I will be a new subscriber. Blessings to you and your family for the New Year! 🙏🙏🙏❤💐
Excellent video! When I saw Shannon come on my feed, and I needed to learn how to install a post, I knew he was the man for the job. He does an amazing job with patience and excellence.
I have a question about installing a tub/shower surround I can't find the answer to anywhere. Remodeling a basement bathroom. The long side/back panel is going against the concrete basement wall. Is it okay to glue the panel directly to the concrete, or will I need to put some kind of backer board up first, and then glue to the backer board?
Just a heads up sir. The link that you have provided, is for the handrail zip bolts, not the post zip bolts. Caused me a bit of confusion at first. Thought it would do the same for may other good folks who followed that link.
Question, I installed JW windows from HD and was wondering if I can remove the 2 little screws that are centered at the top and bottom of the windows so my outdoor window trim fits flush.. anybody?
Wouldn't it be much better not to damage the post with the hole on its side and install the screw upside-down? I mean, drill the hole in the post from the bottom only, screw the screw into it. Then put the sticking part through the floor and secure with washer and a nut. The method you showed is good in case you do not have access from the bottom.
Excellent video. I'm actually getting ready to put 3 of these up, but have nothing solid to secure to. Just layers of 1x boards about 4 inches wide that make up the wall between my basement steps and my bathroom. My house was designed really bad back in 1920, but I will say it is sturdy. A lot is just done wrong though. I'm thinking my best similar option is to drill a 1 inch hole about 5 inches deep in the floor and post, use a lot of glue, and just go with that along with the standard kits I bought for around the base of the posts. I never have company and don't have kids, so it will last as long as I live here.
Wife and I used this hardware and the techniques shown here to install all new engineered oak newels, handrails, base rails and spindles. We came out with a great result. My only worry is that the zip bolt nut things will somehow work loose over time. Anybody know if that’s likely? All joints are rock solid currently.
Shannon, Thank you very much again for your videos! I need to fix posts that are 2.5 inches wide. It appears to me that the Zipbolt system or even the systems with a nut to tighten the post to the floor are too wide for a smaller post such as mine. What would you recommend to properly screw my newel post to the floor? Thanks! Guillaume.
Great information, and explained greatly. Question, can I do this above the new floor instead? So have a clear look on the floor instead of curing the flooring around the post?
Hey Shannon, thanks for the great content. Do you think this system is strong enough to have a wire rail system (wire "balusters")? Or are you banking on that top rail for added strength?
Please do a series on this. I'd like to replace my balusters and railings. For example how do you attach a thin rectangular railing into the wall? The railing i have now uses some kind of pocket hole.
With the fastener you're using, getting as close to center on the 2 x is pretty important. But if I'm using 4 ft of all thread and cover the top bolt with some type of finial or cap does it matter if I go between the joists when I'm using a 4 inch plate on the bottom?