I don’t understand why 70 people have given this the thumbs down. It’s explained in detail and he’s done added research which is forwarded on for nothing. From experience I know you can spend hours searching for stuff like the end cap only to realise it’s not available. He’s saving everyone a lot of time. Great video!
A lot of people knocking here, but as a indentured carpenter (35 yrs plus too) I have found your videos interesting and your wide ranging trade knowledge is commendable, well done Pouse team. Yes halving existing or replacing the whole newel post is better (if possible) but the Zipbolt has it's applications and serves a purpose at the right location. As a muti-trade I am about to embark in my fist loft conversion thinking of taking stage videos too ? Greats job 'Pouse around the HOUSE' Chris 3C.
Sorry but only just read this for some reason. Thanks for the feedback . Definitely go for the videos, get them uploaded, maybe you already have? Let me know how you get on. Thanks for watching.
You've explained this brilliantly, and, on top of that, you respond SO well to the negative comments (which all seem very unnecessary). I['m tackling this very task and have opted for the Zipbolts - your video helps enormously because, although the instructions aren't bad, it helps to actually see it being done. So, keep doing what you do - you do it really well and it's much appreciated...
Nice clear vid, these are great devices to make fast secure connections. My only (hopefully constructive) comment would be regarding using holesaw before forsnter. All drills rely on centrepoint for support/guidance so piloting increases chance of drift/skidding/out-of-round.
There will be new carpet going down as the stairs are part of my loft conversion which you can also watch on my channel. I will also be the decorator, if you check out my other vids you will see I do it all myself, hense my channel! Thanks for watching.
excellent video, made my life so much easier, instructions are so clear and was able to get the Zipbolt as shown, was struggling until I came across this UK video. Thank you so much
I like that fitting very much! Have had to come up with various way over the years to fit these. Thanks for the heads up. Maybe a few dowels under there will make it even more sturdier.
To be honest it's very sturdy as it is. When the glue went off you can't really move it. The important thing is getting a flat base. Thanks for watching.
Wow. Worked a treat. Rock-solid. Bit hard to source the Bolt in Europe (import tax via the UK), but would strongly recommend it. Possible gap in the market? Brilliant video mate, keep up the hard work. 👍🏻
if you have access from below it's better to but the screw part of that piece into the bottom of the newel post and use the slip-fit nut in the joist below.
Like the idea of using them for joining worktops saves drilling two big holes on one side of the worktop,and they wont keep falling out as you try to tighten them up👌👌👌
You would absolutely ruin and possible split a worktop screwing one of those fuck off big bold in to it, surely you have seen the clamp brackets that are made for closing up the butt and scribe worktop joints? 😂🙂🙂
Unfortunately where you get the 'waste' from the thickness of the hole saw you would end up with a 1 - 2mm gap around the edge of your plug. Thanks for the suggestion though.
@@bp8092 Not everyone likes rock. Personally I think the music gives them a sense of energy, and keeps the vids up tempo and modern, as well as having a very familiar British sound to them. 👍🏻 So much stock music is used on RU-vid, often terrible electro or euro synth pop. It's refreshing to hear something a bit more edgy and original. Keep up the good work Pouse, and the rock music is a great USP.
Best description and direction on the zip bolt. Unfortunately they don’t work with box Newell’s which are so popular now in the U.S. They give you a big piece of wood, or Timber as you Brits say, that you screw down and slip the box newel over. Very unstable. How do you mount the rails to the newel? I’ll watch your other video’s and check. “Ta” 😂
Thanks for the feedback 👍. You can attach rails in several ways, a good carpenter will do a mortise and tenon joint with glue, Or you can actually by a zipbolt for rails. There are other 'quick' fixings you can buy or like mine, you can use a long pan head screw through a countersunk hole pulling the two together. Hope that helps, best of luck with it 👍
Top of handrail must be between 90cm and 100cm from the floor if brand new or if you’re not matching to any existing… if replacing it may be lower than that to match any existing handrails but must not be made any lower than the existing handrails
Not sure it's for outdoor use butvI know they make one for decking outdoors. Look up zipbolt decking on Google, I'm sure you'll find it. Thanks for watching.
Obviously cut your post square but I bet it won’t be perfect all round on floor so you can use thin wooden shims in the joint before tightening down to plumb it in. Trust me these fixings are solid specially when wooden glue also, I always put the big hole for the fixing on the other side towards the spindles, less obvious then
@@bp8092 they sell specific work top bolts. The driver mechanism is patented and they use it for lots of products. Very clever useful stuff. Mine worked well.
POUSE around the HOUSE They are the same company as PATH says BP, takes a lot of hassle out of doing the joint up, especially if it needs to be loosened and tightened a couple of times to tweak the fit. They look like the standard dog-bone but with the hex/cam on one end 👍👍👍
The problem with using dowel rods for your plug is that you’ll have end grain facing out, instead of face or edge grain. End grain will always stain differently than the latter and will be obvious to the eye.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Not meant to offend, of course! It's just that I watch your stuff on my TV and have to adjust the volume a lot between the music and when you're talking. Great content though. 🙂👍
@@janefaulkner3749 you've trolled the same video twice! I have several more video if you want to take a look. I thrive on insults so please keep'em coming! Thanks again for investing so much time in my video.
I have since replaced the bottom newel post. I haven't yet uploaded a video on this but I have filmed it. I removed the whole post but didn't use zipbolt on that one. Best of luck 👍
Great video mate, really well explained! 👍 I have just one question.. if the newel post is set on top of concrete floor.. what would be the procedure for the zipbolt installation?
From memory I think the instructions said to drill the floor and set the thread into an appropriate resin in the floor. But not entirely sure as I did this a while ago. Best of luck with it.
Excellent video I found this very helpful. I’m going to be doing the exact same job in a couple of days. I was just wondering if the zipbolt system can be used to fix a half newel post to the floor? I’m not sure if it will be deep enough for the 38mm bore hole. The half newel I have ordered from Wickes is 90mm x 41mm. Maybe I will be better just using zipbolt on main newel post and then screwing half newel to the wall instead.
I'd screw the half newel to the wall. The zipbolt is quite big. If you look below the video in the description section I've put links to all the zipbolt products which may come in handy for you. Best of luck, let me know how you get on.
Brilliant thanks for your help. Everything arrived today from Wickes. I was hoping to have made more progress today but getting the floor level took longer than I thought. I have also run into a problem. I have realised that the wall I want to attach the half newel post to is ridiculously uneven (gap of about 3cm between wall and bottom of post) so I need to find a way of making the wall level first so I can attach the post to it. I was also wondering if I could use the “handrail to newel” fixing kit to attach the half newel to the old base because it looks like it uses the exact same method as the bolt in this video but it’s much smaller.
Got both posts finished now. Thanks again for the video, I was watching it as I was doing it and following it step by step. It worked a treat! I had a slight hickup when tightening the bolt as I think I over-tightened it and it started to go loose. I think the old newel base wood was a bit too soft. I just took it off and used the spanner to screw the bolt down a bit further and then put the post back on and then supported it with 4 diagonal screws on each side of the base. It’s solid as a rock now and nice and plumb. Just got to do handrail and spindles tomorrow now. My wife is very happy with the work so far. Keep up the good work with the excellent videos!
Is that just concrete floor or is the subfloor concrete with some kind of flooring on top? Seems to me you would have to be drilling into concrete either way and use a similar set up but with much shorter lag bolt or use simpson tie brackets like what youd use for joists. Sure it up with glue and your golden! Self tapping concrete screws work good, or if you need something to better secure a faster in concrete i use a piece of plumbers solder. The screw will grab onto it and jamb right up snug
Sorry for late reply! But you could use a bolt and resin fix it into the ground. I think zipbolt make one for that exact purpose. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks for this, my wife and I found this helpful while installing our new engineered Oak bannisters. My only concern is I forgot to add wood glue under the newels and in the handrail joints, both of which we used the zip bolts for. I really cranked down on all of them and all the connections feel very solid and strong (the newels don’t wobble at all), but I’m worried they might work loose over time without the glue? I also toenailed a couple screws through my stringer into the newel posts at an angle to increase the hold in different planes. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
I imagine it'll be fine but glue does give it that little bit extra strength. If you've already done it then leave it and see how it goes! Best of luck and thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE My newell post has been on the wonk for almost 20 years! Nobody else notices but every time I enter the house I see it , it's out by a couple of degrees in both planes and it's got to go !!
It's on going, it's all being filmed just finding time to get it edited and uploaded. I started doing other vids again to give some variety to my channel like before the loft started. Watch this space!
Thank you for a great instructional vid!! I am a 74 old D I Yer and followed your lead in doing stairs and landing replacing newel posts and spindles and chuft with end result !! Just wondering if papa pouse would like to sell some 38mm plugs ??cos i cant get them anywhere !! Once again thank you
Hey great video It was really informative.. Just wondering, couldn't you use the first piece of wood you removed with your hole saw too fill the hole? Providing you can get it out intact?
For me it less noticeable on outside as only a bedroom that side of it. The other direction it would be looked at while walking up the stairs at eye level and across landing if you looked down. That said I did such a great job (If I do say so myself) you can't see it anyway! Thanks for the comment.
Silly question maybe, but how to you know your tape measure is SQUARE when you’re masking centre points etc? Or is exact accuracy simply not required ?
This is possible but finding the right hole saw with attachment (no drill down middle) is probably more costly for a DIYer than just buying some pre turned dowel. Thanks for the comment!
Yes, I do this to make wooden plugs my point is you need a hole saw with the ability to easily remove the centre drill. Not all do, also 40mm is not readily available so to go and buy that size with the right attachment (i.e. with the ability to remove the centre drill also) then the cost is probably more than just buying some dowel. The other thing to mention is I tried this with a 40mm bimetal holesaw and the plug came out at about 37mm so it was a touch too small. Possibly another brand would have done it. You can see me use the guide you mentioned in my erbauer plug cutter demonstration.
No I'm sorry. Using dowel is a no. That's poor practice and end grain will show though most modern paints and definitely show through stain. Not something I'd be advising people to do myself. Take the time to do the job correctly.
www.google.com/search?q=40mm+holesaw&client=ms-android-google&prmd=sivn&sxsrf=ACYBGNSIhMDjU058WdaExd05sEoi2HA7ag:1574357938662&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwicn7ut7PvlAhUVThUIHXB2CkUQ_AUoAXoECA0QAQ&biw=412&bih=604&dpr=3.5 How is it difficult or expensive to buy a 40mm holesaw to go with the same arbour you used with the 38mm holesaw.
The large dowel. Chisel out the round hole to a square, then just cut a square piece of wood & plant it in going with grain of the wood, pva glued & slightly proud of the surface. Orbital sander it down to flush. Ps, why did you not paint the newel post, spindles etc before the carpet went down?
I’m looking to replace my bannister etc and would need to do this but how do you solve the issue of the lower third of the newel post that shows on the side of the stair case. Mine is currently a dark wood and I want to replace with a light wood but I don’t want two different coloured woods on my staircase.
I've done this, the reality is you just stop noticing! Alternatively you can use veneers to some extent. Those fixings look neat, I used a 1 inch dowel and cascemite for mine, stronger than I expected.
TemusV1 - I sanded a curve in the top of mine to blend it in. You can buy a connector plates that give a distinct join between the 2. Or just sand back the old and stain all the same colour. Several options really just be creative! Good luck.
Hi are you based in wales if so do you work as a carpenter i need my post sorted as it wobbles also i need a couple of doors fixing if it is something you can help me with can you message me many thanks
I would have left the cap off for a while,so the clamp settles inn,so you can retighten the clamp,them posts take some strain when folk pull on them on the last step...
