I just installed theses on 3 garage doors. Here are my recommendations : 1) Use a laser measure (eg. Bosch), 2) cut vinyl with 4" utility shear (eg. Ronan Tools), 3) pre-drill vinyl with 3/32 bit (if using #8 screws), 4) fasten with GRK trim head screws #8 x 1-1/4". Be sure to check and adjust the tracks of the garage door to make sure the garage door is flush to the door jambs before installing trim. Be sure to close the garage door using the garage door opener (as closing by hand will have a different gap on the top). Use the cut-off piece of the trim to gauge the distance to the garage door (too close and the seal will curl up, too far and there will be a gap). Use cut-off pieces of painter's tape (or post-it notes) to mark distances. Align trim and screw in. Remove painter's tape. Done!
Had to paint mine, waited a couple of months before painting. Seal shrunk up and now have a gap. Can't move it because the rest of the door is wrapped in metal.
If the trim on the side panels begins to lift after being nailed at the bottom after being exposed to the elements what would be the corrective active ? should it be screwed or possibly use adhesive to hold it in place ?
Can you paint this with latex, including the flexible seal? It won't just flake off from the constant flexing? My plan is to first use Kilz primer and then a couple coats of standard latex exterior paint.
Hi Phil, the plasticizers that keep the weatherseal flexible do not particularly work well with coatings - this is especially true with brand new product. If it has been installed for some time (6 months or so), then the success rate goes way up. That being said, if you were to paint the weather seal here is what we would recommend to help with the adhesion: - Do not paint the back side. It’s not visible anyhow when the door is down. - Follow coating manufacturer’s recommendations - curing time is always an important part of the process. - Sherwin-Williams has a product called SnapDry®. This product dries really quick. - For darker shades use a vinyl safe coating like Sherwin-Williams VinylSafe or Benjamin-Moore Revive - this is critical. - Lightly scuff sand the face of flexible and the cellular section with 220 grit sand paper. - Wipe down the part to remove any dust created by the sanding. - If the product is already installed, make sure your garage door is up when you apply the coating. Allow the paint to dry before closing your door. You don’t want the paint to stick to the door and the seal. - Apply the coating as specified by the manufacture. We cannot warrant any coating manufacturers products. We hope this helps!
@@WestlakeRoyalBuildingProducts Thanks so much for the response and painting advice - it does help. The 20 yr-old seal I pulled off was painted and didn't seem to have an issue (other than the broken bits), but it was sprayed and I'll be using a brush which will likely result in thicker paint. In addition to flaking and cracking, I'm also worried about the flexible part curling, leaving gaps which I've read can also happen. To avoid any of those issues, I think I'll just paint the wood-patterned "trim" part and mask off the flexible seal, leaving it white. Ideally, I wanted the whole thing to match the house color (sort of a sage green), but at least the garage door is an off white color so it will somewhat match the white seal.
We recommend using galvanized or stainless steel trim nails when installing our Garage Door Trim. You can learn more on page 37 of our Trim and Mouldings Contractor Handbook: www.royalbuildingproducts.com/sites/rbp/files/2019-01/rbp_trim_and_mouldings_contractor_handbook_us_2019.pdf.
What can be done to avoid the vinyl seal from shrinking in subzero weather? Is there a product made specifically for cold weather? When installed properly I find that it no longer seals in the wintertime when very cold.
Hi Arlen, When installing PVC Trim in 80°F or above, butt joints should be installed tight, thus reducing the amount of exposed shrinkage as the weather swings to below zero. Some additional tips to minimize shrinkage are to use more aggressive fasteners (screws vs nails), or use an adhesive, like Titebond Ultimate PVC Trim Adhesive and fasteners. We also recommend ensuring the flap is adequately pressed into the door as to ensure it minimizes air leakage throughout all seasons. Hope that helps!
If money isn't an issue for you there is a company with "SnirtStopper" in the name online. They use a kevlar material than doesn't shrink and also has insulation in it. It's several hundred for all 4 sides, however they provide a 25yr warranty on it.
I'm having the same issue. Upon installation it was flush and after a couple months, the are gaps. I didn't install it myself, so I'm wondering if it was installed too close to the door. 🤷🏾♀️
Hi Roy, we recommend reaching out to your local garage door dealer with this question, as well. Dealers often sell 18’ lengths, and splicing these smaller length stops is not recommended. If you are set on splicing, we would recommend using a scarf joint to minimize rollover. Hope this helps!
@@WestlakeRoyalBuildingProducts I did that. They charge 3 times per foot what the local hardware stores charge. I can't participate in that kind of greed. No online supply of 16 footers either for a reasonable rate. I finally cut an 1 inch extra flap on the flexible part and supper glued it to the adjacent piece so neither will fold under. Seems to be working so far. I have found that this material shrinks and expands so best distance is no less than 9 inches between fasteners. I use silicon at the top and bottom expansion spaces to keep the dust from penetrating.
@@WestlakeRoyalBuildingProducts I don't see how a scarf joint would work on the flexible flap. the door would still catch the edges of the flap. I place a piece of masking tape down on the door before supper glueing (sic) the flaps together. tested rubber cement but the supper glue seems to work better. (yes, copyright)
Hi Al, we recommend using color coordinated galvanized or stainless steel trim nails with our garage door stop trim. Check out page 37 of our Royal Trim & Mouldings Contractor Handbook for more information: www.royalbuildingproducts.com/sites/rbp/files/2019-01/rbp_trim_and_mouldings_contractor_handbook_us_2019.pdf.
@@chrisknight3681 Hi Chris, it would be more helpful if we knew the brand and product, since that would likely be hard to determine from a photo. Do you have that information available?
Someone mentioned merchandising. Darned near every two car garage on the planet is 16 or 18 feet wide. How is it that Lowes only stocks up to 9ft length? I've even called your recommended wholesalers to no avail. Only option is to wait weeks for a single piece of trim????
Hi there, if you could please send us an email with your contact info (email address and phone number) and a picture of the metal frame to royalbuildingproduct@gmail.com we can pass this along to the appropriate rep and help with your request. Thanks!
While products can expand and contract due to temperature variations, the best way to eliminate open joints is to follow our preferred method of installation. Use PVC cement/pipe glue or OSI TeQ Bond-when bonded correctly with one of these adhesives, the joint becomes an integral part of the system to which it is being applied. Check out our Installation Tips & Techniques instruction booklet for more information: www.royalbuildingproducts.com/sites/rbp/files/2018-02/rbp_instruction_booklet.pdf.
@@WestlakeRoyalBuildingProducts OSI TeQ is no longer carried by big box stores in my region. Is there an alternative? I've seen a lot of new caulk/adhesive products hit the shelves in the last few months so maybe there is an alternative? not asking for a specific brand but what is the key factor, i.e. solvent weld, urethane adhesive, polymerized acrylic adhesives, etc. It's also disappointing that your website isn't as specific as the youtube thread.
@@nicholasnovak289 You can use an acrylic, urethane, or polyurethane caulk or adhesive. Mechanical fasteners are always required. User needs to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Adhesives are not covered by our warranty. Listed below are manufacturers that have formulated adhesives to work with: PVC to PVC Titebond Ultimate PVC Trim Adhesive & Sealant Titebond PVC Trim Joint Adhesive Extreme Adhesives PVC Trim Welder® ZeVo 1 Part Cellular PVC Adhesive® for use with Royal Building Products FastCap 2P‐10 Adhesive & Activator OSI PVC Trim Bond® Weld‐On® 705 by IPS Christy’s Red Hot White Vinyl Adhesive® Quality Transparent PVC Cement PVC to Wood Liquid Nails®Heavy Duty Liquid Nails® Subfloor Loctite PL Premium Loctite PL Max Loctite PLX8 PVC to Masonry NPC Solar Seal® 900 Liquid Nails® LN950 Construction Adhesive Liquid Nails Fuze*It® PVC to Steel NPC Solar Seal® 900
I go to hammer the trim nail and it bends. NO way to get 1 1/4" of nail strait in there without being a professional hammerer. seems like a greatly excessive length.. need a nail gun or something.
I used 1 5/8 in paneling nails with a small head. No problems with bending for the most part but there were a couple instances where I hit knots. Solution is to drill a small hole first (smaller diameter than the nail), and you'll have no problem.
@@philshock3805 haha... Thanks. I was so pissed back when those nails bent LOL. Had to go back to home depot and get smaller nails... I think I went thinner nails.
Hi Roy, we'd like to understand more about how you're using the product so we can address your concerns. Please email us at royalbuildingproduct@gmail.com so we can connect you with a representative who can assist you!
