How To: Installing Whiteline Adjustable End Links/Drop Links 

At stock ride height your end links should be perpendicular to the sway bar for proper leverage. Also there should not be any forceful stretching to connect end links otherwise an uneven preload could be set into your sway bars and mess with steering feel & body control on turns.

@@TK-gd9td that's what the video misses, the pre-load to me is when one side isn't level with the other, tensioning the anti roll bar. You should be able to slip both ends of the drop links in the both the bar and the damper without having to force the bar to align, that's where the adjustable drop link comes in to account slight variation in ride height L to R

You can’t do this at home, you need corner weighting scales to do it properly

@@bilaltariq7819 I understand corner weight is done with the bars disconnected. Once the rideheight and corner weighting is done the roll bar is connected and adjusted to be free from static tension.

@@cw205mi16 That's true but some cars run a specific amount of preload on the bar and you have to measure it by checking the relative weights of each corner. I'm not really sure why they do it to be honest

i like it when the whole socket turns.

Thank you!

zero preload on the bar is the bar ends as close as possible to parallel with the ground. On the endlinks, once installed, rotating the turnbuckle it will get to a point where the buckle spins freely back and fourth with little to no effort, go one way its starts to get hard to spin, come back and your back in that sweet spot where it rotates freely. Thats where you want to lock everything down. That would have no preload on the endlink. However keep in mind this should be done when the cars loaded, if this was done in the air, the moment the suspension loads up, it gets preloaded.

Yea I would love an answer for this as well

The reason is that there is no guarantee that the wheels droop the same amount when unloaded, so if you just tighten everything up with the wheels at full droop, there is a very strong probability that the bar will be preloaded (twisted away from the relaxed position) when the car is on the ground.

Yes. You need the wheels at their normal operating height to properly size the end links so that there is no preload on the sway bar (downward or upward force)

Very valid question. It's best practice to set and tighten off the links whilst the suspension is loaded is to allow for the sway bar to be in a neutral position so the correct amount of pre-load can be set.

I’m trying to buy these for my mk7 gti. My stock one hit my sway bar these aren’t to expensive hopefully they are shorter by a bit or adjust it to not hit the sway bar?

Just a tad!

Having the full weight of the car on the ground is plenty, Turning the wheel will make the one side possibly bind up. Hence, its better to have the wheels straight to tighten/adjust.

How did you do this because I just did it job with one set of ramps.

One set of ramps is fine

Will do nothing but change the way the sway bar works (not in a good way ) you get endlinks on after lowering a car to put the sway bar back to its original rang of motion

We include extras to be able to get the endlink close to 90* as possible. Not always possible but the washers help.

Unsure if you've gotten your answer by now, but it's to ensure zero preload on the ARB basically. If you had the front suspension fully extended, or partially extended, and fit the droplink (like with OEM droplinks on a lowered vehicle), when you settle the car onto its own weight, the ARB is already under load (preload), this can affect handling as the ARB is already under tension before you're even putting cornering load onto it.

Yes. We have link kits available for the 2015 Mazda 3. Links to our websites in the description.

No

Hey Ian, We dont have them off the shelf for the camry, however we have a lot of different sizes. We just need two things, stud size and length you need. Our stud sizes are only 10mm and 12mm.

Europe

To have the car on its own weight

you saw the video. about 15 seconds

@@dougburg3210 😂😂

No, the height is way more longer in the front than the back

Hey there, you are saying the endlink didn't have a locking nut before the gold turnbuckle?

@@WhitelinePerformance I had a locknut on the body of the link but I am referring to just after the boot. The thread just span so I held it with the vice grips so I could tighten the nylon nut. They're installed now though and they are great.

@@cthorno2991 Understood now, if you were to go back an look at your links you should notice the end of the stud has a hex shape to fit an allen key through. If the opening is closed, then at the end of the stud, before the boot, you'll find a hex shape that can accommodate a 14mm wrench.

Whiteline so how do you tighten down an alley key along with the nut because I can’t hold one down without blocking the other you should of just stayed with the 14mm nut.

@@Midnightxinterlude you need to get a pass-through wrench, use a crescent wrench, or a box wrench.