Familiar looking guillotine, I did mine is grey because I have 5 gallons of it.... It did have sheet steel guards/covers over the blade area, binned them as it was difficult to see where the blade would cut without a torch. I see you have mesh on there. Probably sensible. Good video as always, lacking the fluff and waffle that so many videos are filled with, just solid info and to the point. Perfect.
You have got as many tools as I have !! 😀 The guillotine as you will know is a brilliant tool and a real time saver, you might waste a bit more material but worth it in my opinion. I don't push it to cut more than 1mm steel but I know it will cut 1.5mm in short lengths. I thought about mounting an angle grinder to a slider to cut longer thicker material. Might still make this, it might be useful. 🤔 Thanks for the kind encouraging comments, any feedback is gratefully received, you never know how you come across to people unless they say something. Have you got a Pullmax or similar style reciprocating machine ? I bought an SMV nibbler but have struggled to make it do anything well. I think it would be good at deep shrinking but the tools are expensive and making them might not be straight forward.
@@bensclassicbodywork I don't have anything as fancy as the Pullmax or SMVnibbler. My only experience of nibblers is the hand held ones, which are short lived and fickle machines, soon consigned to 'under the bench' .....
@@innleadair Yeah, I didn't get on with the handheld nibbling tools, tried one once and it was ok but not really for cutting accurately. Mine broke and got sent back. I would really like to make use of my SMV, I'm sure it does something well, if not it will be going up for sale. People rave over Pullmax's there must be a reason.
@@bensclassicbodyworkhi Ben your videos are so clear verbally and visually.🎉 I don’t have ability to do my door where are you? I’ve used kurust but my area does need some replacement! Sue W
These are fantastic videos. Thanks for taking the time to put them together. I've just started my classic car journey (Austin A30), and have a lot to learn! Keep the videos coming!
Thanks so much for the encouraging comment. I will continue with the videos. plenty of curves on an A30 which helps when it comes to controlling welding distortion.
@@bensclassicbodywork I'll take any help I can get 😂 finished the tear down and the engine disassembly and just starting to learn how to weld MIG 👍 looking forward to your next one (and still in shock that you build a helicopter)! 👌
One mistake I see a lot of with people just starting in body repair is they will cut off all the rusted sections of their car in one go. I suppose I can see the thought process but this is the worst thing someone can do. The maximum structural rigidity needs to be maintained at all times or things can get really tough to put back together. I did a Riley elf where the owner cut out so much the whole body was flopping all over the place, it made it so much harder and time consuming than it needed to be. You're the first to comment on the helicopter. I'm quite proud of that project, hopefully next season I can get a bit higher with it. It's all metal work at the end of the day, same skills just different shapes. With so much on RU-vid car restoration wise I should imagine every bit of info Is there, you just have to find it and choose who's advice to go with.
@@bensclassicbodywork Yes, I was advised heavily to ensure I had a fabricated piece ready before a part was removed! No idea what I'm doing, but I'll get the hang of it. Glad to have found your channel and now hunting for a fly press 👍 H
I struggled with mine during covid, thank goodness for cereal packets for templates - I could have done with renting time at your workshop. Some lovely kit Ben, takes me back to my fabrication 'Day Release' course back in the apprentice days. Some lovely work there Ben, really nice ..... decent chunky welds too considering it's thin plate.
Thank you. 😊 Cereal box cardboard is perfect for templates. It's not something I do a lot of but sometimes it's the only way. Having the kit certainly makes a big difference, wouldn't be without them now. Was it body repairs you were an apprentice in ??
Excellent video, must add a set of those odd leg calipers to my Christmas List. Would be good to see a video on making up outer sill repair sections that have a radius to them, and how the DIYer might be able to match the profile without full-size fab machinery
Hi and thanks, the curve on a sill i did in this video Classic Car Sill Rocker panel Repair ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q8OIpc5ALtA.html However I used my English wheel which few people have got and metal rollers which I haven't actually got are expensive too. The third option would be in the flypress with round tubing but there might be a half decent way to do it in a vice, I'll have a think about it. Before I had these tools i probably would have done it with a cheap folder but it wouldn't be great with all the small folds making up the radius. Great suggestion. 👍
Thanks for the encouragement, I've noticed people like Yourshire car restoration doing longer videos and hardly any narration. People seem to love them. Easy enough to do that way. For me watching it, it seems boring but perhaps it's not if you're not in the trade already.
Hi Ben Love the videos. Here's one for you: The "floor" of guide channel that the lower door roller tracks along is succeptable to rust/rot. Probably one of the main reasons for door sag at the front. If you look at the point at which the roller comes to rest when the door is shut, thats the spot that starts to rust out first. I was thinking about creating a new channel floor out of steel plate (possibly full length of the rollers travel) and getting it stitch welded in. Do you think this is do-able or would you have a different approach?
Hi, sure it's possible, the track the rollers run against is thicker steel than the rest of the sill. This means that the curve panel with folded edges is harder to make in one piece. It might have to be made in sections and welded together before installation. I've replaced smaller sections of the track, like you say at the front. As long as you accurately align the sections to be joined and grind the weld smooth the door will run nicely across the join. I think you might be able to buy the panel for the track, worth a look before investing a lot of time making one.
tidy job ,,, try a joiners sliding gauge for long lines ,, I have one with a hole drilled in one end and a pencil pushed in , and the spike left in the other end ,,, very very handy bit of kit.
Thanks for this, you have reminded me that I have a mortise marking gauge which I assume is similar to the joiners sliding gauge? I used it for marking longer width parallel lines when the odd leg calipers were too short. I agree it's a great tool just a little more cumbersome to use than the calipers. I must remember I have it more often. 👍
Hi. I do take on work, as it's just me there is roughly a 6 month wait on any new work unfortunately. My email is btdixey@hotmail.com should you still want to discuss further. Thanks
Hi, I have a mate who has one and is looking to get this done, t4 1997, left side does anyone know anyone who makes these and could perhaps make one for him?
