How to make your own DIY Led Light System for Lego builds. 

Oh yeh cool!

Great idea Edward.

@@BevinsBricksWorld Yes, she is absolutely right and thanks for reply😊

Resistors really do confuse me. I like your idea of using a resistor at each base plate. Question. If I have 3 feet of "transmission line" and lead out every foot to a load of leds "per section", won't I need more overall voltage to over come wire resistance drop the further i get away from my source power? This would require me to step down my Resistors the further I go out from the source due to wire voltage drop because the firstlead out will be more powerfulthan the lead out at 3' correct? What would you recommend for Resistors at the source, 1 foot, 2 foot, etc? And what voltage would I need to ensure 3v at the final lead out at 3'?

I would recommend doing a bit of research because all of that requires different calculations it's not something they can just throw a number at

@@kujosumo4748 The drop across a resistor (or even a wire) depends on the current that is flowing through the resistor. V=IR. Voltage drop = Current x Resistance. The resistance being constant, as long as each of your sub sections draw the same (or similar) amount of current (when everything is turned on), you can use the same value resistor (watch for the wattage of the resistor though. Use one that can handle the power) From my experience, if you use a low resistance copper wire (use the proper Guage), the drop across 3 feet should be negligible for LEGO LED lighting purposes. Typically, you would not be drawing enough current for a significant drop across 3ft of a good conductor. If you are drawing a large current, you will most likely need to have multiple circuits anyways because your power supply needs to be able to supply the required current. So, the short answer to your question is, it depends on the load on each sub-section. It does require some calculation. Also, a very important thing - different colored LEDs require different voltages. So, you will need separate resistors for each colored LED. I just use white LEDs everywhere. I drop the 5V supply to around 3.3 (required for the white LEDs that I use) and then use that to supply the entire baseplate (each LED in parallel). I then use colored trans-clear parts to get the final color I want.

@@deleaptealeaf8935 This was very helpful, thank you! This part of the project has been making my eyes cross and a strong desire to have a drink! Lol

@@kujosumo4748 Just so you know, if you are concerned about the distance from the power supply, if you place your power source at a central location in your city, you can cover more plates with shorter lengths of cable. If you have a limitation on length, say you don't want to go beyond 2 feet for the "transmission lines", you can cover 12 32x32 baseplates with just a single power supply. You have to place 12 baseplates in a + sign arrangement and start supplying power from the middle of the plus. I hope that made sense. And, if you increase your limit to 2.5ft, you can cover a full 4x4 (16 baseplates) grid (with some creative wiring - go diagonally on the 4 central baseplates). You would probably just need an industrial power supply to power all of that though 😃

I wish they would come back.out with the 8x16 tiles. Its one of my favorite parts.

It's basically what I'm doing just on a smaller scale. I have sense redone everything though and now it's all soldered and uses plugs

@@BevinsBricksWorld still bare wire? or is it available with a jacket?

I use insulated now black and red so I know positive and negative.

The only thing that could work for at a airport would be the beacon. I plan to get into programming and such soon myself also.

@@BevinsBricksWorld make sure you pick the official shops they all have them plus you get raukten points if you go via them to the site..we get topcashback..same sort of thing

Yeah you can use my leds for a project like this. Mils is a way of building the baseplate here is a video to show how I do them for buildings. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B-AS-Nqbd40.html

@@BevinsBricksWorld Thank you. Looking forward for new content about this topic. 😁

You.are right and I now make and sell my own line of lights aall with the led installed

When the lights are in parallel you need the resistor to decrease the voltage. But yes using the lights in series will cause the voltage drop without a resistor.

Such an old video I'm honestly not sure

The LED probably wouldn't light up at the higher voltage or burn out very quickly. LEDs work in a specific range, so you put resistors inline to drop the voltage down to what the LEDS need. If you buy a ready made kit you usually don't have to worry about adding resistors.

Yes they are

With led and yes they are very small.

Check out blinky bricks or brickloot they both have some awesome products

@@BevinsBricksWorld and experience)

Yes

I purchase and make my own leds for my traffic lights. I use 0402 leds and place them between the plates

@@BevinsBricksWorld How do you get the LED bulb to stay inside the red, yellow, green trans plate?

The plates hold it in place

No capacitors are used, do you mean the resistors ? This is the linknfor them. amzn.to/45JLvqs

@@BevinsBricksWorld oops, resistor yea! I got thinking a bit more about something I dont really god knowledge off but does the copper coil get hot enough to ''melt'' the lego ( even a bit?) And .. the leds, if you put the cables between plates, does it get ''cut'' since if you can strip em with your finger nails, i assume lego can do the same?

@@BevinsBricksWorld I guess you could say you were down with the sickness

My preffered power supply I use now is amzn.to/3PDieVz And the led are amzn.to/3vlKrbn

@@BevinsBricksWorld Thank you