How To: Plastigage + Bottom End Assembly 

Please post asap I’m way too invested in this series. You guys are really entertaining and this build is amazing! It’s really refreshing to see something different.

Can't watch this now but here's my thumbs up for the algorithm!

Been following this series closely. I don't usually watch non LS content, but your content is so simple and straight forward with loads of passion. It's hard not to follow and enjoy this unique build. Keep it up guys, hope I come across the finished project one day in MI!

thanks, something besides an ls!!!

My admittedly limited experience is that it's very difficult to simulate operating clearances in a non-running engine. I've torqued the bearings into the caps (no crank installed and measured using bore gauges) and gotten oblong dimensions, the parting line clearance being slightly different than the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. I'll assume that's owing to bearing crush. Add to that the dimensional changes as the engine heats up to operating temps and the best we can do is to fall into the recommended range. Yet even that is an approximation based on a number of variables. You guys are killing it on every video.

Guys the detail in this video is amazing! You guys should have a spot on Skill Share! What is the grease you put on the bolts?

this engine is going to run so good when its done, cant wait to see it! masters of your craft

Great video. Did machine shop measure clearance at 4 points of compass each bearing, consider they did that and how that compares to your measurement using plastigage only one side of crank. Keep in mind plastigage measures ONLY the tightest clearance that occurred during all the motion you caused during assembly, align, torque AND disassembly. Try plastigage four side ends and middle and see if that gives you idea how much motion you might be battling while trying to measure. Making good measurements is an exploration in questioning everything.

Yo! I absolutely love the videos you've been putting out. I am very excited to see the end product of this build and what vehicle it ends up in.

Great work guys. Looks like fairly healthy compression. Are those pistons at zero deck hieght?

thanks for the detailed instructions! BTW...are you rewinding motors in there?

Think with the 5 thou deviation in the plasti gauge in the center journal the crank will still last 17 times longer at 1000lbft then if there was no bearing there? "how long it goes for at 1000lbft divided by 138 or how long it goes for at 500lbft divided by 17" gives run time of how long those would run with no center bearing... (600'000 miles later... would have bin 4'300 to 35'000 miles, with no bearing their?) every thou added blocked from known maximum tensile deflection keeps it running 25 times longer "longer then what" of what would be a 0.128 deflection at 1000lbft lasting a continuous 20 year span... it doesn't need a main cap there until looking into frictional drag of the adjacent bearings biased on slight deflection... film tension of oil surface aria plus static oil pressure i'd say 1200lbft would last forever "just the bearing size holding it back" if as long as the oil doesn't overheat... 600lbft if its hot oil. static ideas of film pressure being a push pull resistance... the main cap there makes it good for +200lbft to +400lbft, could run at 200hp for a long time without it... to many ideas, I use My 4.6 ford car for plowing snow... would be nice to send it +10psi so it can push a 3 foot deep pile of hard pack in second gear? that would be close to the same output as the V10 at the crank. +2 cylinders the 5.4L outlasts more then four 4R100 primary drive clutch packs... what might it be bolted to that can handle it all? some how my CV axle broke, that was a 1300lbft flywheel torque ratted axle for a 8.75 final drive gear... 330lbft 4.6 V8 + engine deceleration torque... slowing down into a snow pile puts a lot into it all. this did that so that would need "...?" not to brake anything? if it is 1000lbft with a turbo V10... 300lbft broke a 1 inch axle... that might brake a 2_5/8th axle.

Love this build! Have yall considerd ITB before settling on that intake design?

I'm sure not much material was removed but i wouldn't have filed a crankshaft that has been speed balanced.... maybe it's just me🤷‍♂️

Im sure it will be fine, but how much power do you think that stock crank will hold? The split pin even firing design seems a little sketchy to me, especially at higher torque and rpm due to the small cross sectional area between those pins.

You should have used studs on the rods they are stronger

So what car are the heads from?

Camshaft???