In this video I will be showing you how to replace the engine stop or shut-off safety cable. These will eventually break with use, the cable will either wear out or the flywheel brake mechanism will seize up causing excessive strain on the cable. #lawnmower #oemtools #lawnmowerrepair
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When I bought this mower, the brake on the flywheel was seized and I fixed this along with replacing the cable. However the spring tension is quite heavy so to make this cable last, I’ll be modifying the mechanism.
Here is the new replacement cable. It can be purchased online or from your local small engine dealer. Some can be interchanged, others cannot.
To remove the cable from the handle, simply pull the handle up in the off position, rotate the cable out to the side, and then disconnect.
Using interlocking players, grab onto the plastic retaining bracket, wiggle it, and pull straight up at the same time. You’ll see in a moment there is a plastic rod down the center to prevent it from rotating on the handlebars.
Then cut any cable ties along the handlebars that holds the cable in place.
At the engine, the cable is clipped into a hole. You can use players to depress the tanks and then pull straight out.
The other side of my cable was broken therefore it has already been removed. it uses a similar connector at the lever on the handlebars.
The new cable is fitted into the lever hole, then pull the cable back slightly, inserted into the slot and then push in the clip on the casing. You can skip ahead towards the end of the video if you want to simply replace the cable and not remove the engine brake.
In this situation, I am removing the engine brake safety as this is causing too much strain on the cable. To do that, the recoil assembly was removed. Tools will vary depending on what engine you have but I will go over a quick overview.
The air filter is built into the engine cover, therefore the carburetor intake tube needed to be disconnected as well. You may also find various bolts around the engine which hold the plastic cover into place.
My oil cap was also required to be removed, I stuffed a paper towel inside the fill location to prevent any dirt from falling inside.
The steel cover around the flywheel is then removed as well. Again various bolts are holding it down.
Finally that engine cover can be removed and we have full access to the engine brake.
As you can see there is a heavy spring, even using a large screwdriver to pry the lever, quite a bit of force is required.
I used pliers to remove the spring. The break can be removed freely, these are also replaceable. As you can see mine does move freely, so there are no issues With it being seized.
Using a ratchet, I removed the brake completely.
The engine can still shut off by being grounded out, as you can see the old lever is still here with a spring.
After that the engine is then reassembled, and the flywheel cover is installed along with the flywheel bolt.
The plastic cover is reinstalled back onto the engine along with all the required fasteners.
I did find my recoil was sticking a little so now it was a good time to take it apart for cleaning and rewinding that spring. be extremely careful when working on these as the clock spring can fly out.
Any dirt was cleaned out of here, some light oil was applied, and then it was reassembled. I was required to retire the pull cord as it was the easiest way to wind the recoil.
The recoil is then bolted back down.
The new cable is pushed into place and it’s reinstalled back into the lever.
Cable ties are used to hold the cable tightly to the handlebars. Now you are officially done.
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4 апр 2024
