How to reset rear electronic parking brake! Audi/VW No Vcds needed! M 

I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?

How bro? piston is stuck i cant lower it

Yes if it doesn’t have electronic parking brake it will just be like a normal brake service.

You're welcome!

I did just that on Tuesday.

​@cy_young_9104 how do you fix it once it's all the way out?

@@dudndadn12212 You will to open the bleed screw , clean the piston and re-insert t. Then replace the pads, set the caliper and pray.

Did you ever find a fix for this? I’m having same issue and no solutions online

I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?

Sounds like you might have over extended the caliper. Might be able to wind it back in and save it but might need a new caliper.

You can take the motor off and unwind the EPB with a torx on the back of the caliper. You will need to compress the piston back into the caliper. I did this last Tuesday.

It’s a power probe 3. Can get them on Amazon for like 100$ I think.

I got mine off Amazon! Very handy tool to have.

@@prestofixit3518 Can you provide the link? Would love to get my hands on that!

@@chrisdewitt1 just look up power probe 3

Is the handbrake locked on or is it an intermittent fault?

@@cannonball7984 not sure what you mean? The parking brake works fine after this.

You should see it now!

Did you even watch the video?

Pdiddy9393@gmail.com

@@desertmandan123 Are u talking about module for the parking brake?

@@hcic8738 No

@@desertmandan123 Great talk. We'll have to do this again some time soon

@@desertmandan123 Straight from the battery with 2 Alligator clips

Saw a lil spark near the 2 prongs when I accidentally tapped the 2 gator clips while they were comnected

It’s been years since doing this and parking brake still works everyday! Not a single error since doing it this way.

My thought exactly 😅

Thats why its turns so shitty at the end when he he is turning the brake disc. Got to calibrate with computer. Opens and closes a few times but it runs free

It’s been well over a year now and no problems at all! Parking brake works and releases every time and pads are still in great shape.

@@prestofixit3518 Good but it won't be same on every model, may depend on the year/model or trim version

@@axxesaxxes8810 It calibrates on the first operation after you have changed the pads when you turn the ignition on and operate the park brake..................

Still working completely fine over a year later!

9 months in and still works fine!

I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?

It’s been over a year and 40k miles. Still working good

Actually that is normal for newly installed pads and discs prior to driving and operating the brakes. The pads need to be bedded in which happens over a few gentle braking operations after which if you have installed quality parts will give you excellent braking. Just make sure not to brake heavily for the first day or so of driving if possible.

@@andrewwatson5360That’s the complete opposite way of how you’re supposed to bed in new brakes lol. You want to bring them up to high temp by performing moderate-to hard stops without coming to a complete stop (like hard braking from 40 to 5 mph for example) after hearing the brakes and completing the bedding procedure you want to drive for awhile with minimal brake use to cool the brakes back down. That’s a proper bedding procedure. What you advised, (being very gentle after installing new brakes is exactly what you don’t want to do, I’d doesn’t allow the pad to come up to temperature where it can leave an even friction coating on the rotor, and mate to the new rotor if also installed, causing uneven friction deposits etc.

@@ThumperG Really ? Not sure what experience you have had with disc brakes but I'd recommend you follow the (quality) manufacturers fitting instructions if you want the rotors to last without distortion. One of my current vehicles which I have owned from new still has the original discs and pads on the rear after 195000 klms and I replaced the fronts at 145000 klms and I live in a hilly area and do a fair amount of towing with it. When others drive that vehicle they always get caught out by how grippy and effective the brakes are in comparison to most other cars. I maintain the brakes in my other cars as well which include sports and performance vehicles all of which perform excellently with no pulsating, brake fade or needing excessive effort. Brakes are like any other part of a car. Treat them with care and they will perform as you need them when you are driving hard. If not unless you are on the track equipped with racing standard calipers, pads and discs you won't have any brakes after the third or fourth corner particularly if they have been abused initially. It's excessive braking creating lots of heat that causes glazing of pads and distortion in rotors particularly in cheap brands.

@@andrewwatson5360 Here’s a bedding process from Brake Performance which is pretty much the standard for bedding in brakes on your everyday vehicle: Note the key words like where it says to stop “AGGRESSIVELY” several times, and how the point of bedding is to “HEAT UP” the brake pads and rotors. I’ve seen many manufacturers bedding procedures and I can’t think of a single one that said “just be very gently with the brakes for awhile and then you’ll be good to go” LOL Like I already said, that’s the exact opposite of how you bed in brakes. ***Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock. Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop. The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking. You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes. Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes. After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material. Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.