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As a BMW guy, let me just say FCP Euro lifetime replacement parts even on fluids! I have eight BMWs ranging from 80s to 2007. The only reason they're still on the road is because of them! Not an ad I'm just really really happy with the lifetime warranty and customer service 🤘
FCP euro is amazing I got the rubber windscreen seal for my e92 for 40 bucks took 5 minutes to install. And they shipped it in this crazy box with crazy protection.
Great tip I'm getting either a 135i or 335i which would yall get? One thing that surprised me is the 335i gets better gas mileage and its heavier, dont make sense lol
Hoodie: “Of course I’m going to take this to the track and probably immediately blow this thing up” Ninja: “ok” Ninja was like yeah just let me know when it blows up so I can rebuild it. So casual
I love to watch a person who REALLY knows what they're doing. I'm not a BMW fan, but if I had to drive one, Ninja is the guy I'd take it to for service and repairs. He truly loves those things!!!
"BMW is making their cars ugly to try and sell more suvs" wow I've been wondering for years why BMW was doing it and Tyler nailed it on a single 20 minute video
People have different tolerances for crap... you might think anything short of a block cracked in 12 pieces is perfectly OK. Others usually find $10k in 'normal maintenance' unacceptable, even if the block is "bulletproof" as you say.
@@bgee461 it was literally a $30 coil that fixed his misfire issue due to the prior owner throwing a bunch of mods but skimping on proper maintenance. A new set of coils would have cost $150 and takes the average person (non-mechanic) 30 minutes to replace. Not even close to $10k. Most of the quoted $2k comes from a bad rear shock and typical oil leaks from a 13 year old car.
@@bgee461 the block doesn't crack unless it's seeing 700hp+. Least of the N54s problems. My wastegate actuators broke at 95k and I drove around with zero boost for 5k miles but the car always ran no problem.. just felt like 200hp tops lol. It got pure stage 2 a few months back
probably not the most tuneable one, but if it is maintained, it lasts. You might have to have an Autobahn near you to warm it up once or twice a week 😊
I have a n54 135i m sport manual. Running jb4 automap and bolt ons, pump gas. I do a lot of spirited driving and I get 22.5 mpg consistently. Not too bad for how quick the car is. And it always puts a smile on my face! Been searching for an upgrade for years but it’s hard to find anything as good for the price. It would be the ultimate car if it were a bit more reliable and it had LSD. I personally didn’t have any issues so far!
Car ninja seems like a really good guy, amazing how highly competent honest mechanics are rare like unicorns but there's ninja working in the same town as Car Wizard
"It really is amazing that we, as car enthusiasts, are willing to put up with this amount of abuse when it comes to our cars..." Speak for yourself, Tyler.
Have had one of these for about a year now, tracked and lightly modded by previous owner - I am reasonably throttle heavy myself (track vids on channel can attest) and no issues so far. Rattle is from the wastegate arms getting loose, its a pain and you lose boost but its not going to blow up or anything. Most of the common issues that come up on these seem to be manageable or preventable.. Unlike say getting smoky exhaust on a VTEC I owned once. Super happy with it so far, may or may not blow it up at the track soon.
Love their faces at 18:00 after Hoovie accelerated and they look st each other smiling. 👍🏼 The exact reaction you want, but rarely see from your wife when she is the passenger...
The "wiggle" in the back is your rear subframe bushings. They are quite soft and flex a lot once you add power. The easy fix is white line or power flex bushing inserts, or you can go with revshift solid mounts. Just did mine on my car.
Have a 135I 2013 N55 engine. I love it. Hasn't blown up yet....but I do hit all the maintenance regularly. Fix it up, take care of the N54 and it will be a blast.
Same here, 2013 135i. Bought it at 62k and I'm at 72k with no issues yet. Watch your coolant level, these cars drink coolant keeping the turbo cool. And the sensor doesn't let you know until you're down like 3/4 of a gallon.
Ah yes, the old Aftermarket tune that disables the CEL.... Immediate red flag! (or at least it should be to any sensible person!) 😆 That being said, $2k-ish to fix all the issues sounded very reasonable considering it is tuned and those turbos are working extra hard.
If they haven't been upgraded yet, rear subframe bushings could also be contributing to the rear end "wiggle" that is synonymous with these cars. I put poly bushings from AKG on my 1 series and the wiggle is gone! No increase in NVH either. Another option is to do solid aluminum bushings as well.
Your stupid is showing bro lol car made up to 2013 at least i think. Doesnt matter when the original was sold. It was sold into the next decade. Its a part of this last decade. It just sold in between 2 decades if thats how you want to look at it. And if its 08 to 13 well shit it had 3 years into this last decade over 2 for the prior. Sooo hes not wrong
Actually the most reliable BMW platform I've worked on extensively. I've owned many different N54s I can say with pride that I currently still have two N54s making over 600whp and both have had 0 issues only regular maintenance things done. Of course they're single turbo, walnut blasted recently, all seals done on time, early fluid changes, all stock garbage parts have been upgraded, lots of stuff removed or replaced for reliability and performance. Never had a bad N54 block they're just plagued with the same issues as other great BMW engines, poorly engineered/designed electronics.
Couldn't agree more. I have a 125i N52 that I drive through hell on a daily basis and that platform has never given me a single issue. the more I hear about the n54 the more people say its insanely reliable and strong.
@17:00 - The rear end is going side to side because you have an open diff. and the traction is engaging the brakes back and forth to keep you from going sideways.
@@hotpuppy1 Back in 2009 I put one on mine to tow a small trailer for tires and tools for track events. It's not as easy as the truck and car hauler but it worked!
I’ve spent $5,000 dollars on my 135i on just the engine alone but it puts the biggest smile on my face every time I drive it :) Worth the money. Feels like I legit have a small super car lol. Nice content! Keep it up!
I've lusted after a BMW 1 series for a long time. It's maybe only in the last 6 months I thought maybe instead of getting a n55 or 135i I should maybe go with a 128.
Great vid ! I had an 07 335i coupe with the manual . Did the same mods . Great , great car to drive. Addicting torque just as hoovie is showing. Side by side to some of the newer v8 mustangs and camaros .
I have an 08 135i with 200000kms but well maintained. I've done 15000 kms of spirited driving . Has stage 1plus tune . Dual cone air intake. And have not had a single issue . I believe the key is keeping up with the maintenance
what you're feeling in the rear end is the crazy soft rear subframe bushings. originally the car had run-flats. Once you add normal tires and stiffer suspension all that energy gives at the subframe bushings. The best thing to do is add solid aluminum bushings. TC Kline is a good recourse for these suspension-wise. Also might as well go with some pure turbo upgrades as well.
This one hit close to home. I had a 2007 335i with the N54 engine. As soon as you said "misfire", I knew it was the coil. In the 4 years I owned it, I replaced all 6 coils, the HPFP, the water pump, a couple of window regulators, and a couple of other miscellaneous things. When I sold it at 120k miles, it was dripping oil out the tailpipe. I never bothered to figure out whether it was turbo seals or head gasket. It was the best and worst car I ever owned.
Totally enjoyed this post! I agree with almost everything Hoovie had to say about the N54 135i. In the past I’ve owned both an E46 M3 and an E92 M3. I currently have a 2009 135i, and even after 7 years still absolutely love it. To me it’s the perfect sweet spot between the two M3s. It’s all the plastic bits under the hood that drive me crazy. Just would add that the N54 is a remarkably durable engine when you consider it can deliver near super car power levels with just a moderate investment in bolt-on upgrades and maintenance. I doubt there are any other comparable engines that perform so well at high mileage. In addition the OEM and aftermarket space is incredible for E9x’s and E82’s currently. It is a labor of love to own one of these. IMO it is really only feasible if owners are willing and able to take on the repairs and maintenance themselves. If you can’t, you probably should avoid.
The n54 is able to reliably produce more than 700 hp. BMW's are just usually bought by people who don't have money to properly maintain them. This car is wonderful!
@@JD-eo7dr I'm not even talking about turbo cars only - he tends to do that to his other cars. I know those are his cars, he is entitled to do whatever he wants with them, it just hurts me ;D
The N54 engines are one of the best to me bmw has ever made. I own a 135i n54 with upgraded turbos and a lot of performance upgrades and it runs like a charm. You really just need to keep up with the maintenance and you will be fine
Yes mate n54 best the normal man can get hold of it upsets me the stupidity of people saying shit about it full bolting 19ts meth she is no joke when she wants to give her all lol
By "maintenance" you must mean replacing all oil gaskets, ignition coils and plugs, vacuum lines, water and fuel pumps every 2-3 years? and don't forget the "regular" maintenance of radiator and thermostat every 4 years 🤣 I owned a 07 335i I know...
@@ALE5six1 and for about $1000 you can change all of that. all the oil gaskets you should change every 5 oil changes since it costs less than $200 and takes 2 hours to do all of them.
My 08 335 with n54 is very reliable actually. Had a jb4 and fbo. 105k miles. I’ve only replaced a crank sensor inn3 years of ownership. I regularly bounce it off there’s limiter to get some pops. Still runs like a dream
What? The N54 is one of BMW's best ever engines. Yes, the High-Pressure Fuel Pumps are known to fail, but it isn't that expensive to fix. (It is a $500 part). The N54 has won 5 consecutive "International Engine of the Year" awards. (Full disclosure... I have owned an E88 135i convertible for years and it still runs like a dream)
$500 before labor seems like a lot, at least coming from a Pentastar that has cost $35 over 190k miles. I had my eye on a BMW years ago, but I couldn't help but recall what a nightmare my parents had with their Audi. They haven't had a German car since. It's a bit of a hard pill to swallow, considering that I'm half German.
If maintained properly it is a really reliable engine. Nothing can beat it for the price and power you can get out of them. The value on them started to go up a bit too especially on the 1 series here in CA. The looseness is from the subframe bushings, there's a reason why they are soft. If you want that wiggle gone you'll need to replace them with the m3 ones or solid.
@John Stone it was actually a pretty decent grad school car/autocross prepped car. Yes the climate and lack of indoor storage living in a city took it's toll somewhat but the bones are quite good, it is very fast, and handles well (and those coilovers have a lifetime warranty, so Tyler should be able to get the part covered). If you noticed, the only engine issue was a separated coil boot which is a $40 part.
I'm currently rebuilding a bmw E93 with the n52 engine and all I can say is that those cars are a pain in the butt !! Don't get me wrong BMW's are beautiful but is so hard to work on them, nothing is easy , you have to disassemble almost half an engine just to change a starter and don't let me get started on the electric water pumps and oil leaks from the valve cover, but other then that bmw's are beautiful and they are pretty solid cars !
Without Hoovie, we won’t see the real world problems after warranty these car manufacturers trying to hide. Plus the actual cost of fixing them and expose stealerships. Keep it up, you are helping thousands of car enthusiasts. Salute!!
Ive had my 128i for almost a year now, ive put 15k miles on her so far and she’ll be crossing 160k miles soon. Same red on black spec. She has yet to let me down. Take care of your bmw, and your bmw takes care of you.
I loved it when Hoovie said ,"then I'm gonna take it to the track...then it will probably blow up." Jonny looks at Hoovie with a big smile and says "OK". Like he's seen this event take place over and over with Hoovie's knack for breaking things. Total LOL.
I had one of these cars. It was my track car. Had the same rear end steer issue. Fixed it with a little toe in. Also installed new Stage 1 turbo CHRA's from Vargas (Turner/ECS now sells them for $999/set) perfect for the power level your running.
I cry very softly, when I see how much taxes go through our company. I measure the boatloads of money in cars. I think last year it could have even been a (very!) used Lear Jet. All straight from customer to government.
@@drewp.weiner2473 living in Europe, the American tax level, even the "higher" plateau suggested by the Democrats would be better than what we have here. The price of fuel at the pump (I am in the fuels business) is made up of mainly taxes. VAT is at roughly 20% and goes on top of excise duty (about the cost of the fuel on top). The remaining 35% (what the distributed fuel actually costs) lands in the hands of the "rich oil business". Trading fuel only earns you narrow margins, in your language: a handful of cents to a gallon, depending on the fuel and the volume sold. The company making money off the sales gets taxed to about 20%. If as an owner, you want to get your money back from your company you get taxed another 30%. At a certain salary level, taxes, health and social insurance make up about 45% of your income. So about half of your earnings in total go to the govt, in addition to aforementioned taxes collected on their behalf. tl;dr in order to get thousands into your pockets, you must make the govt millions. So much for subsidised fossil fuels 😂
1er owner here: the rear springs looks aftermarket, probably lowered. Replace the rear upper shock mounts with the Dinan rear upper shock mount kit, it makes a world of difference if you lowered a 1er. If you don't replace that bushing, the softest thing in the rear suspension becomes the bushing and you'll feel all the small bumps but none of the big bumps.
I own a 135i as well. Part of the floaty feel in the rear is more due to the rear subframe bushings having a lot of play from factory. Using M3 rear subframe bushings should tighten it up, but not make it as stiff as urethane.
I can tell you that you definitely shouldnt be doing pulls on an N54 when the OIL temp is at 120! You need to let these cars warm up, especially those turbos.
I have a 128i "M Package" so not the "real deal", but better reliability. Did change 6 coils, but I as DIY, not so bad. (les than 30K miles when I bought it). Really fun to daily drive, even in the snow , I like that there is no screen and minimum technology inside, feel like a analogue car.
You may need to reduce the spark plug gap to keep from blowing coils. Ninja noted arcing which means the spark is jumping at the coil and not the plug. Check the spec and make sure the gap is right since they don't gap at the factory and BMW just throws them in.
So excited you finally featured these. I've had mine for 5 years with relative reliability making a lot more power. Suggestions.. Get rear subframe bushings to reduce the wobble, don't bother replacing turbos unless you can't make boost (new ones won't take long to start rattling), ditch the JB4 tuner for MHD which is an Android app. Those rear shocks look like KW or STA so call them up advising that its failed and they should help you out. Injectors replace if they are causing you problems. You can chase your tail forever with maintenance on these or just enjoy them...
This guys a dope, the N54 is the most over ENGINEERED engine block BMW ever put out, yeah so you have to deal with water pump, injectors. Few other bolt ons but your actual engine is fucking BULLET PROOF you doofus, how you think guys make 1000+ hp with just bolt on on a stock block ? If you leave it around 600 its bullet proof
Goes to show all the gauges are not directly connected. I had a car with an oil pressure gauge which was false, it was there for aesthetics only, there wasn’t even a oil pressure sensor fitted to the car. When you put your foot down on the accelerator the oil pressure gauge always moved in the same way, probably connected to the ECU.
I has one of these, last year with the n54. My first new BMW. I loved it, only issue I had was the hpfp, covered under warranty. Traded it in with about 40k miles (plenty of those on track).
I have a 2009 335ix N54 6spd manual - It’s had all of the standard breakdown items, incl. fuel injectors, water pump, and hp fuel pump. BMW did recalls for water pump and fuel pump, and improved the injectors over time. My dealer replaced the fuel pump for free, but I missed the recall timeline for the water pump. Injectors, I was able to easily replace myself, with the help of pirated diagnostic/calibration software. VVT solenoids also flaked out, but it was surprisingly easy to fix them for free. I left the engine un-modded, and it’s lovely as is. Same for steering, brakes, and wheels. Mine only has 48k miles and is in good shape, but resale calculators say it’s practically worthless, which is all the more reason I wouldn’t want to part with it. Any recco for an updated iDrive/infotainment (eg Car Play) would be most welcome.
It's always cyl 3 or 4 that toasts plugs + coils for a couple reasons: 1. They're right next to the filler cap causing any spill to seep into the sparkplug wells and fowl the coil/plug. 2. There's also a stress point for the plastic valve cover right between the filler cap and cyl 3 which results in a crack that will inevitably cause a leak...right onto cyl 3 and 4. It's a good idea to upgrade the valve cover to a billet (they're only around $250) and redo the valvecover gasket at this point if you notice oil pooling up next to 3 and 4.