I changed the filter on my 574 when I was adding a loader to it. I also drained the hydraulic fluid and replaced it. Once completed I had no hydraulics. No steering, no 3 point, no PTO, no loader, on pressure to the hydraulic couplers. Retired I H mechanic suggested running the tractor slightly above idle in neutral, clutch out, then crank the steering wheel left then right repeatedly, took maybe 2 minutes to cure the air lock, got all hydraulics back.
I'll add a comment for people that have problems loosing the hydraulics entirely after the filter change. I had that problem on a 884, would not take a prime. I removed the filter, rechecked the o rings, let the tractor run for a while, tried cycling the steering. Nothing. Well it was winter and i figured it had to be the fluid was just to thick. Got out a torpedo heater pointed it at the filter housing till it was hot, that did the trick.
Great video - any guidance you may have on a 1975 IH 3500A would be greatly appreciated should you come across it. I just picked done up and am having some issues with it only going in reverse (whether engaged in forward or reverse) since a hose blew. (About 3 hours run time since that occurred)
Hey there. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. I have a mystery and I’m wondering if you want to take a stab at it…. My Case 685 3 point arms go up and down without a problem, but as soon as I put an implement on it (or even some body weight), the arms will go up but then not go back down. Thanks again.
Nice video man! I just picked up a case 585 and I’m about to start maintenance on it. It lost the hydro dip stick though. What is the measurement on your dipstick and inches from the bottom to the high and low level? I just want to build my own.
have an older IH 2400B...just changed the filter in same manner as you...lost about 2.5 gallon of oil...and refilled. Started tractor and no hydraulics...should I let it run for a while and "self bledd" as you said? All worked well prior...and I am concerned to not have a pump running dry...but I hear no "bad sounds". One fellow on a forum instructed...just keep using the hydraulics...lift arms, steering...and little by little it will come back. Sound reasonable to you?...my dip stick reads proper level and I didn't monkey with anything but the filter.
You should always thoroughly clean the area around the canister before removing the filter canister. The point of the filter is to clean the hydraulic fluid, and if you don't thoroughly clean the surrounding area before removing the canister, you will knock dirt into the internal part of the hydraulic system. Most tractors will have a lot of dirt in the vicinity of the filter housing - much more than your tractor has. It may be necessary to pressure wash and dry the entire area before removing the canister.
You are exactly right about cleaning the dirt and grease, oil BEFORE replacing filter. U also change the Hd.fluid..On a 784 there are 3 drain plugs. The rear one us a job.
I removed the filter casing from an old 574 of my grandfather's today. I realized immediately something wasn't right. The mesh screen is missing from this tractor and the filter is just resting free in the canister. I can't find one of these anywhere on the net. Any help?
They're not made anymore. They are essential as they include a bypass valve (the big spring and fibre washer inside) which opens in moments of very high oil demand; allowing less filtered oil through temporarily - hence the screen.
When i tried to change the hydraulic filter on my 585, it poored out a lot of oil when I removed the first bolt. Felt like I was draining the whole system?
I see that you didn't show putting the large o ring in it's not easy did change mine last week on case 685 one think I've learnt the panel comes off didn't know that did mine from underneath
A common problem I have had with a CaseIH 5230, and a 885 on the brakes is the brake reservoir. There is a little aluminum tube on the break reservoir that keeps adequate oil level. Sometimes it will slide down a little bit into the return line that runs to the transmission. Causing no oil in your brake reservoir. Then you wont have any brakes. You have to slide that back up and take a torch and heat the plastic so it won't slide back down on you. Then bleed the brakes like I imagine I will see in the next video.
Arranque el motor y ajústelo a aproximadamente la mitad del acelerador. Mueva el volante hacia adelante y hacia atrás varias veces. Debería purgarse a sí mismo.
