Install Crank and Pistons into Short Block 

Another great video.... AND REMEMBER KIDS.... YOU CAN NEVER USE TOO MUCH LUBE!!! LOVE AND STARLINERS😉

It has many years since I meet both of you. Red 68 Mustang at the last Ford show in Ocala, Fl. You guys were great and it was nice to see my wife and mine car on your show. I just made some changes to my car, I got rid of the aluminum radiator and electric fan. Never liked it, always had cooling problems. I put it back to stock, with big block radiator and fan, with 195 thermostat. Stays cool great. We love watching your shows. I was looking at my build book and realized that you have been helping us close to 10 years. Thanks

Great real-world content, tips and skills most non-track, non-racers can benefit from.. THANK YOU

Enjoying this series. Just goes to show that rebuilding an engine is not that hard assuming you have something good to start with. It just takes time and lots of paying attention to detail.

These music choices are a lot of fun. Good variety and generally a nice fits with the on-screen activity.

You should use a bottle brush to clean the crank oil passages. I always clean the bearings and bearing bore in the block with lacquer thinner. It is easier to put the piston and rod assembly in a bench vise. Set the piston on the top of the jaws and leave it loose, the piston will not move or twist. I wipe the cylinders with thinner until clean and oil down with 30ND oil. When I installed the pistons I have the block sitting normally and install first two pistons 1-5 in the block lubricate bearings and push them into the block spark plug boots work well on bolts, rotate block with crank up Install caps torque bolts rotate crank move on to the next two. Whan installing pistons have rod journal down. Everything slides together. I use permatex form a gasket on core plugs. You guys need to get a parts washer.

Congratulations on the RU-vid plaque

Nice group of videos. I have a 331 I’m looking to build and a straight on back to basics look at cleaning & assembly is greatly appreciated

I don't really mind those collapsing ring compressors too much. The trick is to make sure you still have a good chamfer at the top of the bore and the coils of the compressor are perfectly flat. Lots of lube is always helpful here too. A tighter fitting piston helps, but I do realize forged pistons need a larger gap. At that point, you may consider a higher quality ring compressor anyways since you've already spent good money on those nice pistons.

Just started watching your videos again and I find them quite informative. Thanks! From my experience, be a little careful when cleaning aluminum with Simple Green. Depending on the dilution of the cleaner and grade of the aluminum, Simple Green can etch the aluminum. Simple Green is great for cleaning, just don't soak and think it's OK to leave parts in the tank for long periods of time. Etching can occur in a matter of a few hours to a few days.

I have a Lisle piston ring compressor, it’s probably 30+ yrs old now. Im pretty sure I bought it to build a Datsun engine in like 91 or 92. It takes a couple minutes so set it up on your first piston, but after that it snaps on and locks down and has been perfect through the years. I want to buy some of the long plastic rod guides.

I buy the tappered ring compressors. I used to fight with rings in that kind that u got & it isn't worth it. And nice try mentioning engine blocks when u was 25! We know they didn't have engine blocks when u was 25! Lol

Why is thread tape bad for the galley plugs?

You are not a fan of compression ring compressor, could use an old oil can or coffee can. We did in the 60’s.

You guys don't have the cylinders numbered per Ford cylinder numbering convention. You have them numbered like a GM or something like that.