I am 80 years young and been a gearhead all my life going back to the 1960 muscle car era. I have a nice shop at home where you can find me 12 noon to 6 pm. I have a really great 65 mustang convertible that is 100 percent rust free. I sent the 289 block out to my local machine shop to be cleaned and check for rebuilding. I am ready to start assembling the engine just waiting on some parts. I enjoy rebuilding engines but have never done a Ford motor always Chevy. You're never too old to learn. You are a good teacher and if I hadn't watched this video, I might have made a big mistake. Chevy engines have the thrust bearing on the rear main. I was not aware Ford installed them on the 3rd main bearing I more than likely would have put it on the rear main. Next week I will start to put my engine together and I am going to check your other videos out. Thanks a million!
George, thank you very much! I'm willing to bet that if you've been building Chevy engines most your life, you would have figured it out without me. However, I do appreciate hearing from you and sharing your experiences. I just hope when I'm 80 years young, I can keep on doing this. You're spot on with never being too old to learn! My hats off to you!
like the series! build small block fords all the time, nice work. The How To Rebuild your Small Block Ford is one of the best engine books I have seen out there - even for just general engine assembly helpful hints. for a SBF, check the cam end play once the retainer plate is installed, sometimes the rear cam plug is in too far. I saw on the dissassembly video, looked like 351W heads due to the L shaped water jackets. with a good valve job and some mild portwork, that cam you picked should have that thing running nice and healthy! can't wait. Jeff
Hello Alex! Good catch on that Rod bushing slipping out of place!! Have always wondered why the Rod bolt nuts are not lock tited or lock washers with the nuts at such a low torque ??????? Do you always use new bolts and nuts due to stretching? Just a weekend warrior comment! lol
Oh ya those things will get ya if you're not paying attention. I don't always use new bolts but on some stuff I do. Something relatively stock I'm usually comfortable using the original equipment.
Since we weren't doing a high performance build, I just bought this stuff through my machine shop who machined the engine block. The rods are original that came with the engine. Just had them re-conditioned and had the machine shop press the new pistons on.
I noticed you didn't check the clearance on the other 7 bearings, is that due to your experience with the machine shop? should an at home guy check all of them?
I bought my first classic mustang a 1967 coupe 289 a code automatic in the spring of 2022. Your channel has helped me a lot with information and good and simple easy to understand mech tips. Keep up the good work.👍
i also gonnq install rod berings. if you lube 1 side with asse;bly lube qnd then you check the other side with plastigage. isnt the plastigauge gonna squize flatter du the assembly lube against a dry bearing?
It's not a precision measuring instrument. It's meant to get a rough idea of where you're at. Might be off by a thousandth but there is a wide range for your specification.
Those pistons look to be around +5 or 6 cc, compression height should be stock 289, the DOOE heads will need to be milled .030 to .050 to get the compression up to a stock 289 with a stock 2.87" stroke. Summit Racing has a good compression calculator online.
Off topic question. What does it mean when you change the oil, and there was no oil in the filter when I took it off? It has sat for about 2 years before I bought it. So I immediately changed the oil when I got it home. It didn't look bad. But I wanted it changed for my own piece of mind. When I took the old filter off, there was non in it. Didn't see any signs of a leak. There was oil residue inside the filter. But it was empty. It is a 289 2v motor. Filters don't drain from setting right?
