@PowerstrokeBoiz so far at idlel you can see the oil trying to come up the clear tube toward the can. Im using the non vented can so the fumes go back to the intake. I haven't drove yet. But I will later today.
Install a oil bypass filter kit and have the return of that go into a very small oil cooler in front of the AC condense, intercooler, tranny cooler, and radiator. The return from that oil cooler run back to block were the bypass filter kits have the return to.
Can you leave the filter off the top and still run the second hose down the frame? What’s the point of the air filter? Putting mine on next week, just want to do it right.
How’s this set up holding up? Does it flow enough, I see a lot of people having problems with dipstick seals etc…I’m pretty sure those are the ones just running a hose down frame and dumping to atmosphere. Did you still leaving breather filter on top or take off?
I ended up taking the extra breather off, the fumes were INSANE inside the cab. My truck doesn’t leak a drop of anything. Been working since this video
Looking to do this mod as well. Few questions; have you compared the cc pressure (referring to blow by vapor accumulation coming out of oil fill cap or other) by running the exit hose out along frame to atmosphere vs the exit hose returning back to the intake? This whole discussion about positive and negative pressures regarding each style has my head spinning. Looking at the intake vent return for the ccv faces away from the turbo and as air sucks into the turbo does it actually suck much of the cc vapor in as it passes or does it force air down into the vent due to angle of the the entry from ccv in intake port? I’m curious if the blow by vapor/pressure increases by returning this way or decreases and vice versa if you just run a hose down the frame and plug the entry vent into the intake altogether. I understand the extraction or limitation of oil re-entering the intake system to key with a ccv mod of any style. Have you tried it both ways and done a visual inspection of blow by vapor exiting? Appreciate the guidance as I am not sure either way! Thanks
Let me put it to you this way. It’s a Diesel, they don’t create vacuum. Ied rather oil get caught via CATCH CAN vs. OIL STAINS on my driveway/covering under my truck in oil. Your thinking too much into it. It’s there from the factory to breath, every engine has a breather. Think of it like a Human Body, you don’t get any air in. Your dead, you get air in, you live. Lol
thanks for posting this! I understand why you're closing the loop by running the return line from the catch can back into the stock intake, but why also have the vent breather installed on the can?
thanks for the reply. has it caught much oil yet? I bought a can then drilled and tapped a drain hole in the bottom, but haven't gotten around to installing it yet.
have you noticed any oil leaks from anywhere? After I installed my catch can I noticed oil dripping from where my dipstick enters into the oil pan. As soon as I removed the catch can the oil leak stopped. I'm guessing the catch can wasn't allowing enough backpressure to release and that backpressure was pushing oil out. I was really worried about the possibility of blowing a seal or gasket somewhere so I haven't reinstalled the catch can again. What's your thoughts?
Never had a problem with mine. Some trucks are fine with them, others aren’t. These are pretty big being 3/4 of an inch. If your truck has excessive blow by. Could be it’s building excessive amounts of pressure from worn out components
Yes. Stop using that can there is way too much restriction in the CCV flow. Use something that excerpts 1"ID tubing and make sure you get good exit ventilation I use the old, hold some tissue paper in front of the exhaust port from the can and be sure the tubing has no kinks in it. You want zero CCV flow restrictions.
About to give this a shot with the Mishimoto high-flow can...curious as to why you rotated the turbo inlet tube 90 degrees? Was this to allow for room to attach the can discharge hose since the doghouse exit is right underneath the factory position of the intake tube?
I noticed that with the Riffraff CCV delete kit they have you rotate the doghouse 180 degrees and leave the intake tube unchanged...thoughts on which is better of the two or is it simply a matter of personal preference? Apparently Riffraff is closed on Fridays 😂
Probably not a good idea to make the crank case vent build up enough pressure to push through a cooler, better to vent to the atmosphere or straight back to the intake
Why not just plug the hole on the air intake, and run the ccv into the catch can and vent the hose into the atmosphere vs the air intake. Is there a difference?
Im back months later, are you still running this setup? Trying to decide if I need to spend the money on the mishimoto hi flow catch can that’s $250 or if this catch can is good for the job?
My bad...the battery, the catch can and the air filter its covered in little oil. I was thinking on placing the plug instead of the filter but I don't know if that's safe? Also Installed a second one on my passenger side and that one vents to atmosphere.
@@JOSELopez-dy1wg First off, make sure you have no leaks. ( Hose Clamps, Loose Fitting, Loose Hose ) Make sure also you’ve run the lines correctly ( Inlet & Outlet ), lastly if your truck is producing that much crank case pressure, Ied say look into doing a rebuild lol
Not big enough, and definitely not enough baffling. Also you need 1"ID tubing in and out of the can. Mine is 7"tall and 4" diamiter can with a 3/8" ball check drain cock on the bottom. More than 1/2 of the upper inner cavity of the can to the exit port is full of SS pot scrubbies to capture as much of the comtaminants as posible + Three cerculer baffeled plates and a 1/2" tube with as many 1/4" baffel holes in it as can be put in it. From the inlet on a 90% coupling going down to 1.5" from the bottom of the can with a 2" open chamber to hold the liquid that I call engine sewage. That is drained at the same time as the 5k oil and filter change. The exit tube again 1" ID gose to a 90% coupling that has a CCV valve cover filter. This now gets vented to atmosphere at the back of the frame some wear close to the end of the exhaust pipe. Now I have never seen or smelt any vapores comming from this system. I have been using this system for 1K miles now. A tissue paper heald over the end shows that there is ample air flow and no residues. The line is straight with no dips that could possibly fill up in time with CC residues and plug the ventilation flow. The can is mounted on the frame. I will not vent this back through my cold air intake and turbos and into my finely metered air fuel ratio giving me the best posible cleanest posible combustion and HP. MPG. Including the delets of the failed government science prodject emission controls I have incresed MPG by 1/3. No black smoke in stop and go traffic or rush hours. Also had to put an after market cold air filter and box on. The stock air filter proved to be far too restrictive. I used a K&S kit but there are many to chose from. This has also improved cold starts. Turbos sound great. No sign of any seals or gasket leaks.👍
I have a question. Just bought a 1997 f350 7.3. When I'm driving with my headlights on truck won't shift to overdrive. While driving 55 if I shut the headlights off it will shift into overdrive. What's going on?
I added this catch can. I found blue hose to match. I mounted it on the alternator bolt . Drilled a hole in the L of the aluminum support bracket. I’m curious do we need the filter on top? It smokes out the filter . The stock setup pulled directly into the turbo. So I put the cap screw back on top . Can should still catch oil. I posted a video of the parts and where I mounted it. Thanks for the idea . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fjATXYJRk10.htmlsi=NTsIuWN6Jzx5h1u5
