this is priceless, thank you very much. These kind of sharings mostly don't get many thumb up, and it rarely exist on social internet because it won't make profits. And precisely this kind of knowledge sharing without asking nothing in return, is the ones that people truly need. The world is all about profit in these years no doubt, yet I still firmly believe that it is still worth living in because of the lovely people like you are.
This is a really good video tutorial. I am glad I found it. Can you try working on an old-ish frame which has cables going into the frame from sides and convert into internal routed handlebar so that only exposed part of the cable is the little section from where cables exit the stem and go into frame?
The only advantage i found to this blue cable guide thingy magnet tool is to fish the cable in the handlebars. When you have 3 housings coming out of 1 hole, a magnet is useful to fish out the cable. I've built 2 velobuild fully integrated bikes with separate stems & handlebars.
Could you maybe do something to explain routing the front mech shift cable outer and how it then terminates to allow the inner shift cable to pass through the frame up to the mech?
I no longer work for Montecci, but I would drill the front derailleur cable hole out and run the housing straight to the front derailleur when the derailleur permitted that. For sram/other derailleurs I would drill the same hole out but smaller, and terminate the housing with a step-down ferrule. On size M and larger frames there is a nice flat perch where the cable would traditionally exit the frame; size S and XS were a little trickier because the perch area was very small
Been a professional mechanic and now shop owner for over 35 years ,always loved all things aero and slick (so it’s not a resistance to change thing)but I think frame and components designers should be given a workshop and told “ok….now you build the fuckin thing” …why should changing a headset bearing involve a full bike strip and brake hose replacement…just sayin.
Yes, unless the hoses are brand new and sealed you will loose a little oil. As long as you’re running the hoses from the bottom up (brake up through the frame) you won’t loose all your oil, just a little bit
Great video! I am thinking about building a new bike with fully integrated MECHANICAL cables (shift and brake.) Is that a good idea or will be a a hustle and bad performance?
Each bike is different- some companies do a good job of hiding cables without making things overly complicated and some companies don’t. Overall, it will add a little bit of complexity but not so much that the bike can’t be serviced or maintained regularity. If you travel with you’re bike frequently you might want to consider external cables or going electronic
Thanks for sharing. I'm trying to build a custom titanium gravel bike with internal routing and I'm a complete newbie. Don't have a LBS so my only option is to do it myself. Can you tell me what size cables and housings I need to order? Also when I route the housing does that go from start to finish from the brake lever to the brake caliper or do I break up the housing into pieces for the small sections of cable that are outside of the frame? Thanks for any help.
Derailleur housing is a standard diameter as is brake cable or hose if you’re running hydraulic brakes. Every frame is different; these frames use housing from start to end but that’s less common. Most frames have “stops” where portions of the cable will run inside the frame without housing.
@@wrenchfriday wow I was told you couldn’t run mechanical shift cables fully internal …because you use need cable stops , how did you overcome that .. by running cable housing thru the complete frame ?
Through an accommodating handlebar yes, but through the stem and frame probably not (unless the frame allows for cables to pass through the headset bearings).
