KLR 650 Valve Adjusment

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Tools you'll need:
10 mm wrench
12 mm wrench
19 mm socket with large ratchet
Torque wrench
Not really a tool, but you'll also need the correct size shims. I got the 16 shim set from Fred at Arrowhead: arrowheadmotorsports.com.
Need a Clymer manual? Check out www.clymer.com/ or / clymermanuals
Make sure the engine is at TDC: the "T" mark should line up with the groove in the threads. All the cam lobes should point away from each other.
Loosen the raised 12 mm bolts on the cam chain tensioner. Remove the chain tensioner by unscrewing the two 10 mm bolts. You may need to encourage the removal a little bit...
Stuff the Abyss of Doom with clean rags (if you drop something down the Abyss of Doom, bad things will happen; your dog will die, your wife will leave you, your kids won't do their homework, and all your beer will be warm. See what I mean? Bad things!) Remove the cam cap bolts making several passes (try to keep somewhat equal force on each bolt as you undo them. Only a little bit at a time.) Put the parts in a safe place. When you remove the cam caps, be aware that the dowels will try to jump out when you aren't paying attention; so... focus.
96 or later: remove the chain guide. Three bolts, 8 mm all around. The two bolts should be problematic with falling out. The single bolt will be a problem. Grab it before it's unscrewed all the way.
Use some wire to hold the chain up. That can fall in the Abyss of Doom, too, ya know.
Remove the cam shafts. Start with the intake (the aft shaft) - pull the chain away from the teeth, and roll the assembly CW while moving it forward. For the exhaust shaft, pull the chain away from the teeth, but you don't necessarily need to do the rolling thing.
The shims are now exposed. If the notch around the shim is not readily accessible, use a small flat head screwdriver and spin it around to wherever works best for you. Pop the shims free (the oil is holding it down). You'll probably need to hold the shim bucket down while you lift the shim.
Record the shim size in the proper place on the shim sheet.
Shim size calculation video: • KLR Manual Valve Shim ...
Before you put the new shims in, clean them off. I used a moist magical rag (seriously, it IS magical!) and wiped them off. Put them in their spots number side down (so the cams don't rub the size away).
Reinstall the exhaust cam shaft first. Make sure the engine is at TDC. Taughtify (that would be "pull taught") the forward section of the cam chain and set the cam in the cradles. There will be some lateral wiggle room. Make sure the arrow and tail on the outside of the gear points forward and is level with the top of the engine edge. Do the same thing with the intake shaft, but the top chain section needs to be taught.
96 and later: install the chain guide. The two long bolts are a piece of cake, the short one is normal, but the circumstances make it sneaky. Mine had some red loctite on it when I removed it, so I re-red'd it before I put it back. Don't drop it!
Put the cam caps back on, left set first (with the oil tube). Don't forget to put any dowels back in place. Lower it evenly. Screw in the cap bolts finger tight for now. Put the right side caps back on, one at a time, evenly, finger tighten the four bolts for now.
Now seat the shafts. Do the left side first. Front to back, the bolts are 1 2 3 4. Tighten them as 1 3 2 4 (front exhaust, front intake, back exhaust, back intake). Do the same sequence on the right side. Tighten a little bit at a time, working your way up to 106 in * lbs.
Reset the cam chain tensioner. A new gasket's a good idea. Install the tensioner (the two 10 mm bolts). Put the 12mm bolt with the spring and washer / gasket back in. Make sure the two 10 mm bolts are tight before doing the 12 mm bolt!
Spin the engine CCW a few turns to push the shims all the way in. At TDC with lobes pointing out, check the clearances again. Make changes until you're satisfied.
Replace the plugs.
Finishing the job is in the Valve Check video: • KLR 650 Valve Check
Please rate and leave comments!
For a wealth of KLR 650 information, please visit KLR650.NET - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Resource!
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29 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 121

@nagrain 14 лет назад

I actually had the small and shorter chain guide bolt fall into the abyss. I was afraid I wasn't ever able to get it back but luckily I was able to do so with a magnet antenna.

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

True indeed. However, in my defense, I was following the Clymer instructions. Since it was my first valve adjustment on anything, I figured it's better to follow the directions given than to go my own route. When I do the valves again, I'll post the short-cut. Thanks.

@jay9950 Год назад

This is a great video, Thank you! I did the shims on my '94 KLR using this video at 30,000 kms (6yrs ago) and will be using it again this fall at 60,000 kms!! Your video on shim calculation was also invaluable!

@2manysigns 8 лет назад

Thanks again ! I've used this video for the last 60000 miles on my '06 and again today .

@codybrookehanson2346 5 лет назад

Wow, wonderful video. I keep hearing how hard this is but you explained and showed everything very clearly and it looks very simple. Thank you very much.

@ghotioutofh2o 5 лет назад

Thanks! I'm so glad my video was helpful!

@AlbinVega1865 15 лет назад

Gotcha! Thanks I will need to perform a job like this on an '81 Suzuki GS 850G. This is one project that I have avoided (due to fear). I think I can get my way through it now that I have seen it first hand. It is so much more helpful to see it done, rather than try to picture the process and its steps from a book or manual. Thanks again. Hope to see more of these videos posted soon!!

@jeepinbanditrider 15 лет назад

I miss the old screw and locknut valve adjustment on my Suzuki Bandit lol. I can deal with this though the KLR is a great ride.

@atticustheory7 2 года назад

Great video, helped me sort a few things I had questions on before opening mine up for shims and timing.

@dubripple 13 лет назад

Thanks very much for doing this demo - I will be using it in the near future. On a side note, this is WAY easier on an XR650L for anyone who is deciding between the two bikes! Just search for "xr650 valve" and you will see what I mean.

@ghotioutofh2o 13 лет назад

I'd probably spread out the fun. My reasoning is that if you do it all at once and the bike doesn't work, you have no idea which change caused the malfunction. If you spread it out and ride between each mod, then you do something and the bike doesn't work, you have a good starting point for troubleshooting.

@banhammer4586 6 лет назад

It worked for the 84 600 even the 650 cam timing works. As done the shims because the kickstart kept ripping my work boot off my foot with violent kick back. Im happy now.

@mgalison 16 лет назад

Great video, I wish I could see you take everything apart getting to where the valves are. Great suggestions of putting paper to catch bolts if they fall out

@NightGlidr 7 лет назад

If you remove the spark plug when turning the engine over by hand ( with a socket/wrench), there won't be any compression and is so much easier to turn. Put the plug back into the head when your adjusting the valves so you don't accidentally drop anything into the cylinder. Make sure to re-install the plug and torque it to spec. also a small dab of anti seize on the spark plug threads will keep the threads from galling.

@jimwatts7489 6 лет назад

Noticed that right off. Shows how much experience a person has to overlook that.....LMAO!!!

@crisg.5766 8 лет назад

Excellent videos. Clear and to the point. Thanks!

@ign1te9 12 лет назад

best part is at the end; "put the two caps back in their holes, if you can't figure out which goes where, you shouldn't be riding". Thanks man.

@ShaunHensley 16 лет назад

Thanks for the vids. I am now more than ready to tackle my own valves. I think I'll go ahead and remove the sparkplug when to make spinning the engine that much easier, though.

@vinnyg2605 6 лет назад

Sorry I hit submit too soon, so I made index marks with the red nail polish at the ends of the chain cover and on to chain then from cam chain gear to cam chain chain. I painted on the chain, from the cam at 90 degrees and at 180 degree of the chain as it was with cams. So upon reassembly it just made the need for having to move the CAMES one or two teeth at a time un needed. I aligned the index marks and it made it so much easier to reinstall, and I don't know about you guys, but I tightened the cam nap bolts ( with new E.M. Bolts said to be stronger. In 3 sequences of TRQ amounts first pass I went in order of CLYMERS with the new screws. Some new dowels all making it easier by miles for a first time Val shim adjuster such as myself I went 35 inch lbs on all 8 cam bolts first pass, 75 second pass and the finally 106 INCH POUNDS OF TRQ. As finial. THEN AS I LUBED all shims and cam journals with lots of oil I spun the motor by hand 20 times CCW ONLY-and re aligned to TDC ( Tech tip imho) I remove spark plug so it made sit very easier to and rechecked the clearances and before that tripled checked the TRQ OF 106 inch pounds. I thought the marking the cam and chain was a good idea and sure for me made confidence and reassembly perfect the fist times on bike done Lots CAMES shims on cars Buy were where they were. Please let me know if any anyone knows of or thinks of a problem that doing this creates, I know I will have small amounts of paint floating or sinking or better yet just in the oil, I would hope trapped by oil filter, so I planed on changing the oil in 35 miles. I hope that makes sense I know I write like a gorilla and or worse, and I hope the indexing helped.

@groundowl3098 6 лет назад

".and if you can't figure out which hole, you shouldn't be riding." L O L !!!

@vinnyg2605 6 лет назад

I found it very very help full to " index the cams ans on two areas of the cam chain with Red Lip stick Polish

@danhaines4442 8 лет назад

To know what size of shim you need I always took a measurement of each clearance before removing the shim. If you have a valve seating further into the valve seat then others a smaller shim than the next size maybe needed. Second point is shims may not need replaced at all. Measure twice then reference clearance specs to determine if an adjustment is needed. Also did not see him confirm the actual Cam shaft installation timing. Good video but the other person commenting is also right Kawasaki has used shim under the cam shaft since the early 900Z1 inline 4 from early 1970's and there was a tool that would allow you to leave the cam shafts in place and force the value down far enough to remove the shim without disturbing the camshaft. I was a Kawasaki mechanic for many years in the 70's and this was the most frequent service job I did. If your not comfortable with this level of work take it to the shop and let a trained tech do the work.

@ghotioutofh2o 8 лет назад

+Dan Haines "To know what size of shim you need I always took a measurement of each clearance before removing the shim. If you have a valve seating further into the valve seat then others a smaller shim than the next size maybe needed. Second point is shims may not need replaced at all." This video is part 2 of the entire valve check and adjustment process. The first video was checking the valve clearances, which had an in-video link to here if you needed to adjust the valves. Camshaft timing: 5:30 in the video.

@Frollet1 10 лет назад

pro tip: You should remove the spark plug so you're not fighting against the compression stroke while turning the engine.

@2001cusito 8 лет назад

Great vid. I ain't no mechanic so this is great help.

@ghotioutofh2o 13 лет назад

@hedlundk Yes. That's how I did it last time and it was much easier that taking the cams off. But still check the cam alignment afterward - couldn't hurt.

@bicylindrico 16 лет назад

Not a bad idea to through some assembly lube on those cams while turning the engine over to recheck the lash. Thanks for the video.

@ghotioutofh2o 14 лет назад

The Clymer gives a range of .10 - .20 mm (.004 - .008 in) for the intake and .15 - .25 mm (.006 - .010 in) for the exhaust. Set them to the loose end of the range; as close to the bigger number as possible without going over.

@ghotioutofh2o 14 лет назад

From the T mark up and the cam lobes pointing in, spin the crank over 360 degrees - one complete revolution. This should set things up right.

@AlbinVega1865 15 лет назад

Very informative and clear. This is a great video! If you check with the feeler gauge (still not sure how that is done?) and the gap is still off, how is that then adjusted?

@cedric910 10 лет назад

how do you keep the crankshaft from turning?

@sandpiper9988 14 лет назад

Thanks for an informative video. During the adjustment you mentioned the spec of .004". Did the manual give a range such as .003"-.005" or does it give an exact spec of .004" and do the shims come in increments of .001"?

@raindrop132 13 лет назад

good job there what i like to see you do is carburator clean up and and installation if you would please i really appriciate that on this bike thanks

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

You would readjust the valves the same way that you initially adjusted them. The same method to figure out what shim you need, though it will most likely (hopefully) be the next shim size. For the feeler gauge, if you get to a leaf that you can't slide under the cam, try the next one smaller; if that on can slide underneath, that's your measurement.

@OsmanParvez 15 лет назад

Nice job. Very helpful.

@ianferrier235 6 лет назад

Nice job man

@klrbiker 15 лет назад

I waited to long to do mine, had one tight and others out-of-spec. I made a bit of a guess, valve just a bit tight, none of the other original shims were smaller, so I went smaller by the full valve clearance.

@MrMotortech 13 лет назад

@antoshapink you still have the force of the valve spring

@ghotioutofh2o 11 лет назад

(After taking measurements:) take out the cam chain tensioner, remove the cam caps, *tilt* the cam shaft up so there's room to remove the shims. Good luck!

@superdoblec1 8 лет назад

Me parece muy/muy buena estrategía cubrir con unos paños de tela los lugares por donde se pueda colar algún tornillo o tuerca al interior del motor

@COMB0RICO 15 лет назад

That is a pretty darn neat video.

@karlosroacho5299 6 лет назад

Somebody have cam caps for sale please tell me

@spuck1234 15 лет назад

when should you adjust the valves?

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

It depends. When was the last time the valves were checked or adjusted? I think that may be more of a carb issue, though.

@Squatmyster 16 лет назад

Thanks, very informative and easy to understand.I don't suppose you know anything about bevel drive Ducati's do you?

@ghotioutofh2o 14 лет назад

The sticker is actually on there because my step-dad works for a Fire Department in the Pacific Northwest (that's as specific as I'm comfortable saying on the open internet).

@Lichlord 13 лет назад

Abyss of doom is a good name. I've dropped the small chain guide bolt down it before and the magnetic wand I had was too wide to fit. A small magnetic wand (1/4 inch or smaller) is important to my peace of mind now. (This was on an EX250 which thankfully doesn't use shims anymore.)

@MikSane 15 лет назад

wow, watching this video makes me feel better and know than the inside of my engine, or even thinking about working on it, is not as scary as i think it is....do i need to do my valves when i hear popping when i downshift????????? thanks dude you ROCK

@clarktferrill 12 лет назад

What/where is this motion pro tool to hold down valves? How does that work?

@dahveed284 13 лет назад

I'm coming up to 15,000 miles on my '09. I'm planning a day of valve checking, doohickey doing, and am thinking of the 685 kit as well. Should I do all that in one weekend of wrenching, or spread out the fun?

@soaringman 14 лет назад

Thanks for the great info

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

Funny you should say that. I thought for sure I saw somewhere in a manual (Clymer or Owners) that you aren't supposed to remove the spark plug for this. As I was taping this, I thought it was kind of odd, since it would be easier to turn the engine over. I just checked the Clymer and it didn't mention the spark plug. I don't have an Owner's Manual around to check that, if the valve adjustment is in there. Weird.

@ghotioutofh2o 14 лет назад

Yes, I did say that... if you drop something down there, you're doomed! Until you get it back, which very well may take some work. The tools one will need are all listed in the video description.

@evilroyslade2491 10 лет назад

Excellent video

@MrMotortech 14 лет назад

Why not just use the shim tool to hold down the valva? Motion pro sells them for 20 bucks , makes the job about 15 mnutes long.

@ChaplainC 13 лет назад

Thanks again... What you DID show was really great, but you left out a few things which confused me The Cam Tensioner. Why did you play with that, just so you could show it wiggles? Well you took out the bolt, and the spring, but then what? Obviously you put it back, but what about the thing you were moving in and out, what is that all about? Also, Cam Lobes... One had arrows on there, what is that about? do I care? Thanks for the great info! (yes I did read the full description too.)

@rhllnm 7 лет назад

THe rear cam chain tensioner bolt can be a mystery - as in how the heck do you get to it. I spent an hour yesterday and was about to give up when I decided to look for every 10 mm wrench I could find and see if one worked. I found about 7 of them and sure enough one of the them worked perfectly. This one let me remove the bolt with wrench hanging down, all the others would barely catch and had the wrench sideways by the starter, impossible to use in there. I was considering removing the starter and using a rachet before I found my new favorite 10mm wrench.

@ghotioutofh2o 6 лет назад

I don't think the cam chain tensioner is hidden by any means...?

@ShaneEdele 8 лет назад

that last comment right before the video ended was funny

@kthom2001 9 лет назад

Nice job of chronicling the process! This is the kind of video one should watch multiple times to get it down. Have you done the MC Mod, where you rotate the Exhaust cam forward (counterclockwise as viewed from the left side) 1 tooth or 7.5 degrees? Works best for 2008 motors and above. Mixed results pre-'08. Dyno tests show 7-10% HP increases!

@ghotioutofh2o 9 лет назад

kthom2001 Thanks! I did do that mod. I think I'm going to change it back next valve check, it doesn't seem to have done much for the bike.

@alphashifter2207 5 лет назад

Good stuff. Thanks!

@ghotioutofh2o 5 лет назад

Glad you like it! You're welcome!

@Arlind86 15 лет назад

okay with what I understand u took off the old shims and put in new ones? If this is the case, that doesn't mean that once you put the new shims together the clearance would be on spec. Indeed u have to check the clerance and replace the shims with a bigger or smaller shim to make the difference.Exam if you mesure(read) the shim and its .25 shim with a clearance space .04+ and spec requrm. are .17-.25 u'd replace that shim with a bigger shim exmp .30 to make up the space.

@alexanderbermudez2496 8 лет назад

Bn ese mecanismo me gustaría saber mas de esas motos

@beetlecrushe 8 лет назад

Surely one does not need to disassemble so drastically?

@ricardomartinez7651 3 года назад

Saludos des Venezuela

@ghotioutofh2o 16 лет назад

I read somewhere that you shouldn't remove the spark plug. I don't know why. If you do, use some compressed air or something to get the dirt and gravel out from around the plug or all that crap will fall in your engine. Then you'll have to take it more apart that you probably wan to. And it's really isn't that hard to turn over with the plug in it.

@leftystrat62 14 лет назад

I saw the IAFF sticker on your fairing-where do you work? I'm in Providence Rhode Island. I haven't purchased my KLR yet,but when I do I'll be viewing these great videos again. Cheers

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

No problem.

@guyNbluejeans 14 лет назад

@ghotioutofh2o Thanks! I shall return to this vid when I get ready to do the job!:-)

@scottdilemma655 7 лет назад

Wow this is way out side of my skill set, all do respect to you mechanics. Never mind adjusting the valves , I would struggle putting the body parts back together. What does the average dealer charge for this service?

@jimwatts7489 6 лет назад

How much money do yoou have?????? Prepare to give it all.... LOL

@AdventuresWithMe00 13 лет назад

I've seen people do the valve adjustment and not actually remove the cams, just take the bolts out and exchange the shims that way. That would seem to avoid issues of misaligning the cams when they are re-installed. Could you have done it that way too?

@slalomking Год назад

@phrankus2009 10 лет назад

Sorry, Man ... It was just an initial shock reaction ... You know, the KLR and the DR650 are similar enough (Dual Sport Pigs) that I have been flip-flopping over which bike (used) would cost least to customize and to maintain, over the long term. It would also be primary regional and personal commute transport (must be able to fix it quickly). So ... It just seems that the KLR was not really designed with user-maintenance as a priority. From what I have seen, thus far, the DR650 wins.

@estrelladelnorte1308 15 лет назад

Nice!!!!!!! you rock!

@archermoody9746 7 лет назад

as someone with minimal mechanical knowledge, this seems like a daunting task

@generaljay2455 6 лет назад

Archer Moody did you do it

@baltsosser 6 лет назад

Space too tall, shim too small. Space too short, must abort. This is a mnemonic I learned at MMI in Orlando. When you measure it for the gap if the number for example should be .14-.25 and you get .35 you need a larger shim. The reverse works the same way. If your measured gap is too short, you need a thinner shim. It does look like a lot, but if you go slow, and use a muffin tin to mark your bolts putting them in as they come out it get easier. Once you have done it once, (like doing brake drums the first time) your understanding will improve. It gets easier from there.

@banhammer4586 7 лет назад

would this be the same as a 84 600 klr?

@ghotioutofh2o 7 лет назад

I'm not 100% sure, but I think it may be.

@l.j.astwood2407 10 лет назад

Dear Ghoti, I have a problem with my 2004 klr 650. I hear a slight rattle in my top end and I removed the valve cover and upon examining the exhaust cam I notices that the part on the end which the spring is connected had a left/right play that caused a slight rattle. Should that play be there or do I replace the spring or the entire exhaust cam. Help me please.

@brownfromanothertown 9 лет назад

thats the decompression thing, if its messed up replace it but its always gonna be a little slack

@elephantcup 15 лет назад

Indeed. Spark plug should be removed to make it easier to turn. In your demo, you overshot TDC and had to continue to spin it one more time. That's why- if it were easier to turn you wouldn't have overshot it. Good advice to clean around the spark plug area before you remove it so dirt won't fall in. This applies every time you remove any sparkplug in any vehicle. You did go out of your way to caution your viewers to not remove the plug. This is incorrect. Great demo nonetheless. Thanks!

@salus500 11 лет назад

good one

@rideswift 15 лет назад

Can you repeat the part about the side cover caps?! I didn't get it!!!!LOL :p

@banhammer4586 6 лет назад

sorry if im being a pain but my bike now suffering from back fire out the carb i cant even kick it over for the fear of breaking my leg. Timings perfect shim and gaps are perfect. Could the stator be in the wrong position or is it a lean or rich carb.... Has new stator cdi and coil. new shims. Loads of compression bikes only done 12000km 1984 klr 600...carb is stock no mods

@ghotioutofh2o 6 лет назад

Did it start that right after adjusting the valves?

@banhammer4586 6 лет назад

no. We just towed it behind a car seems like a no gas problem.... Full open throttle then no throttle it starts to run. So its lean no gas. Have to do a carb rebuild. Everything looks mint in the carb tho. Guess ill start with the float level

@moltensurf 9 лет назад

so while i was waiting for my shims to come in, my bike got moved out of tdc. should i spin the motor back to tdc before i put anything back together? thanks

@ghotioutofh2o 9 лет назад

Absolutely yes.

@moltensurf 9 лет назад

ghotioutofh2o thanks for the fast reply

@ghotioutofh2o 9 лет назад

:-) You're welcome.

@charliewecker 11 лет назад

If for some reason anyone here decides to clean cams in the process be sure to drench them in oil before reinstalling the head. A dry spot can be catastrophic. I unfortunately just learned this the hard way.

@phrankus2009 10 лет назад

Sorry ... I have been trying to make up my mind on whether to purchased a used KLR or a used DR650 ... I have watched Maintenance vids (including valve adjustments) for both bikes and .. Well ... Excuse ME for making a valid observation. I am on the verge of a final decision but you would throw a tantrum if I explained (objectively) ALL the reasons for my decision. I do hear that the KLR has a much more comfortable stock seat.

@2001cusito 8 лет назад

Great.

@antoshapink 13 лет назад

also. if you turning whole engine-just remove the spark plug- no compression no force required!

@MrMotortech 14 лет назад

@MrMotortech Yea but you can charge that to others later and make more money

@richparker3048 3 года назад

Loosen the spark plug, so the compression won't kick the engine past TDC. Just sayin'

@topcattom83 11 лет назад

Nice 1

@MikSane 15 лет назад

interesting...i will pour in some more of the old seafoam, see what happens. thanks again

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

When they are out of spec or close to out of spec. The latter is subjective.

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

My THEORY (I'm not sure) is that the valves and seat wear, making them sit higher, and closing the clearance.

@guyNbluejeans 13 лет назад

I took today off from work to do the job, but got cold feet and goofed off instead. What are the odds of doing a job this intensive under a carport and not ending up wishing to have just forked over the cash and let the Kaw experts do it? (If you tell me I'm wise for wasting a day by not doing it, I'll be fine with that.:-)

@ghotioutofh2o 10 лет назад

Why would I watch that video? I don't have a DR650. Also, welcome to a world where there are different ways to do things. The bucket and shim method is just one way to set valve clearances.

@stormworks4882 8 лет назад

lmao at your last remark

@DillysADV 11 лет назад

you just need to come back to utah and have me do it then it wont be a problem..

@dirkharvey7345 7 лет назад

LOL Stuffed in thee abyss of doom. hahaha oh man, well put.

@ghotioutofh2o 15 лет назад

Ya know, I'm not really sure myself. :-P

@musclefixer 16 лет назад

Kick ass! Now, do you have a video on removing my own ingrown toenails? J/K, my feet are fine. ;-)

@ghotioutofh2o 16 лет назад

Use some pliers and pull really hard. Or bolt cutters and just remove the whole toe! :-P

@ghotioutofh2o 16 лет назад

Not really, no.

@ghotioutofh2o 14 лет назад

Because that's $20 that I won't have later.

@guyNbluejeans 14 лет назад

Did you say, "the abyss of doom" at 1:00? That's good! Lol! I'm a-gonna do the job myself soon to save some bucks. I sure hope like heck that my low IQ can handle the job, yikes! Does one need any special tools?

@ghotioutofh2o 14 лет назад

:-)

@phrankus2009 10 лет назад

You must be joking (please?) ... Watch the vid on adjusting the DR650 valve clearance ... You remove the valve covers and just stick a feeler gauge into the gap and turn a bolt ... done.

@slalomking Год назад

They are different adjustments. DR is easier to adjust than the KLR. The KLR uses bucket shims.