My tv stopped detecting a hdr signal from Disney and Amazon etc and stays in sdr. Dv still works tho. I just got off the phone to LG and apparently there’s been a lot of calls about this and they’ll be rolling out a fix.
Yea still nothing, lg told me they’d keep me updated on it but still nothing. They asked for feedback on their service and I just said my next tv will probably be a Sony now lol
No changes as far as I can see with my gaming monitor, or internal apps, use. Thank you for your update, and I hope and trust you are doing well. Take care.
Thanks for keeping us up to date! I'm probably not going to update my C1 because I'm worried of potential eARC issues. I believe the C2 and G2 also received the dimming fix.
@@Hoze23 Try unplug everything from power for a minute. Be sure to enable Simplink HDMI CEC on your C1. DTV Audio Setting set to Auto, Digital Sound Output to Pass Through and enable eARC Support.
After some testing, I haven't seen any changes whatsoever. Come back later to double-check with the community reports. Edit: TPC and GSR dimming are still an issue. See side by side pictures on a community post from 2/7/24
If anyone else was having issues with an Astro A50X + PS5 + LG C1 combo try this firmware update. This firmware fixed the invalid format error my Astro A50X headset would give anytime my PS5 would do video output changes (happens often since every game triggers different modes for VRR, HDR, SDR, 60hz and 120hz) Even though the headset is amazing and works fine with Xbox Series X and PC I was about to return it since I primarily play on PS5 but I’m so relived that an LG firmware update actually fixed something.
havent had any issues, however i recommend going into the settings and turning off all the ad tracking bullshit and home screen nonsense, as it is useless bloatware and only serves to slow down the tv.
after the update the screen seemed so bright my eyes hurt. Then 2 days later it started to turn off exactly 20 seconds after being turned on. LG helped troubleshoot and said it has a problem with intermittent power. Now on Wednesday a tech will come out using the Allstate Protection Plan I have from Costco. Hopefully it can be repaired. I'm not sure it was caused by the update but it was fine until then...
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 The tech said the panel was defective and I could ask LG for a one time accomodation. But LG won't replace it because it is out of warranty. I bought it mid February 2022 for $1900! My power board and main board are fine. Just the panel is defective. But there was no problem at all prior to that update. I wonder if anyone has had any problem.
My 65” now has a terrible lag with the Sonos Arc volume control (not a sync issue) and even recognizing the Arc when first turned on. I did have the “fireworks” scree. Save and that is gone and isn’t recognizing the HDR from DISNEY+ via Apple TV. Wish I could revert.
That's very extrange. It might be possible to revert using the Colorcontrol app, which I've never done, but based on your issue, I wouldn't recommend taking that chance.
I just updated and went through the picture modes and on the ISF Expert daytime bright setting I get a weird flickering at some frequency ...it reminds me of PWM flickering that can also be apparent in some flashlights that use PWM to adjust lighting levels ...I never use that setting but thought that I would mention it in case it is something that can be remedied or may be relevant to anyone else as well. But then I kept experimenting with this and realized that this PWM subtle but very annoying flickering was only present when receiving the HDMI input from my computer and not when testing it on any RU-vid videos (the only testing that I did ...I didn't bother testing with Netflix or any other streaming video services) ...so I'm not sure why this is happening when using ISF Expert Daytime mode. I don't know if it is just the output frequency of my video card which is set at 60 Hz instead of the 59.?? (whatever the 59Hz option is supposed to be - can't remember) ...I can set custom resolutions on my video card ....but I don't want to bother because then that will reset my dual extended display and all the desktop icons that I keep on the extended portion of the display and not the main display (so I can access programs and folders off the extended display (Benq 30" "HDR" Monitor) while playing videos on the main monitor (LG C1 55") will then reappear on the main display and I would then have to drag and drop them again to the extended monitor to customize my desktop again which is a real pain in the butt. This display reset also happens for some reason when I get a sound error and my selected playback device is not outputting on the LG C1 and then I have to change the sound options on the LG to something different and then change them back which seems to fix the playback device sound error but then drops all my extended display icons back onto the LG main screen I also have an Orei BK-202A HDMI switcher/splitter (that supports 120 Hz variable refresh 8K) that I send the video output that goes to the main LG C1display to a longer HDMI cable that goes from the dining area around to the larger living room area TV display unit so that I have a mirrored main screen display output exactly opposite to the LG C1 that is wall mounted above my desk that is against the dining room wall. This is so that I can roll away from the desk and spin my chair to the dining room table to eat and then see exactly the same mirrored display on the larger 75" main display. But when I first got the occasional playback device sound error where it shows sound going to the LG C1 (flickering green volume bar when using testing) but no sound coming from the LG I also had success with fixing this by toggling the Orei switching back and forth but then this would also cause the dump of the desktop icons that were on the extended display back onto the main LGC1 display. I later had the idea to try toggling the sound settings on the LG to try to fix this when it happens (extremely infrequently) to see if I could preserve my main and extended desktop icons setup which is when I then found out that it still dumped all the extended desktop icons back onto the main display as well when fixing the lack of sound coming out with the LG being selected as the playback device. So I guess I have to live with having to rearrange my desktop icons whenever this happens ...which is where a saved desktop screenshot at least lets me get everything back in the correct order. I guess the last few paragraphs were a bit off on a tangent ...I am also still on Windows 7 on my older gaming laptop connected to the LG and Benq ...so maybe it might be a Windows 7/nVidia graphics card issue that might resolve itself when I update to Windows 10 after getting my new Thinkpad Yoga X1 Windows 11 set up and my system files and folders copied over before updating the gaming laptop to Win 10...just in case something goes wrong. Although the tangent wasn't relevant to the ISF Expert Bright mode flickering it did bring up my mentioning the Orei BK-202A 8K, 120 Hz VRR splitter/switcher. If anyone is looking for this kind of solution I would highly recommend this device due to its video capabilities and the versatility of choosing the input/output channels from multiple inputs and outputs
I've been having problems with "One moment please. Smart service will be available shortly." since I updated the firmware. The smartTV home never opens unless I power cycle the TV. So I blew it by updating... Shame on me for wanting the latest & greatest.
Getting a weird flickering/stuttering only with the PS5. It's not a cable issue and just started noticing it last week. Not sure if it's a TV issue or PS5 issue, but if I turn off HDR then it works perfectly fine.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 I tested other ports and it looks like HDMI 1-3 have this flickering issue but HDMI 4 works just fine! I'll look into the other port settings for HDMI 1-3 to see if that's what's causing it
Just came across your channel the other day, Sub'd! I've got a C1 bought in late April 2022 and I don't see any settings sections on my set as you have showing in this video's thumb nail. Is that some type of payware add on? Hoping you can answer this for me?? Cheers, Pierre.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 did not work. Despite all timers off, there is a no activity timer enabled apparently and i get a message that says in 5 min the tv turns off. Im going to do full reset now. Thanks LG.
@@marthamalone6338 apparently, because of the update there was a setting enabled. Support-》Oled Care-》Device Self Care-》Energy Saving-》Screen Off was enabled to 4 hrs. Check this setting and turn it off.
Why are you all about Motion of the TV? Turn on Adaptive Sync (AMD+Consolea) or G-Sync (Nvidia). VRR is technically superior in every way to the motion options in our C1's
Happened to me too.. very frustrating. I think I have fixed it, here’s what I did, Settings Button, All Settings, General, System, Additional Settings, Home Settings then Turn Off Home Launch
After the update, my jbl multibeam 5.0 sounds muffled and dolby atmos is gone. Therefore it was normal. *Edit: I got it fixed by Sound > Advanced settings > eArc support [off] and [on]
Definetely encountering sound issues with my soundbar, the separate rear channels aren't working as expected and don't work at all with my panasonic 4k player after this update. I'm going to try the fix you suggested, keeping my finger's crossed because this is really bumming me out at the moment. Edit: Tried everything, from disabling/enabling e-arc to removing and plugging the hdmi in again and nothing.. wierdly enough only Dolby Atmos now makes use of the rear channels. I'm going to have to switch to a separate hdmi cable from the player to the soundbar, bypassing the TV entirely. I can't believe they screwed this one so badly. Hopefully I'm not the only one experiencing such an issue and a fix will come soon.
I always get a report like this on every firmware update. There might be a reason and an easy fix, but I have my receiver connected to the PC, and the update doesn't affect it. idk what happens
Installed that update before one week. Since then, every time when i start the tv it goes on last used input (aerial or ps5). And when i press home button it goes to home screen, returns to last used input on itself and home button stops working. Only way to fix it is to restart the TV multiple times.
Anyone has had a problem with a vertical line crossing the screen intermittently? My C1 is almost 3 years old, so I don't have a warranty anymore. Just posting in case someone had the same problem.
Anyone else feel a change in Trumotion? I had it set to cinematic movement from the 1st day I got tv TV, I watch alot of soccer games and never had stutters.. since last update I notice alot of stutters. I had to disable Trumotion to get rid of them :(
I didn't see any difference using De-Judder De-Blur. The thing is, soccer has a lot of camera motion blur, and the motion doesn't improve as it should with interpolation
I wish they could just update the C2 and C3 firmwares to add Motion Pro High back in... I'm guessing it's just a hardware feature and there's no way around it.
Hey Plasma! Does 60hz BFI look smoother then native 60hz or does it ONLY look clearer in motion? What have you felt from your own testing is it smoother and clearer or just clearer? I guess what am asking is, does it look like the frame rate has been increased? Maybe to 70 or 80fps instead of 60fps? Or does it still just look like 60fps but with a clearer image. Thanks for reading ❤️
OLED Motion Pro high on the LG C1 looks like 158fps in motion, better than 120fps but without the improved input lag of a higher frame rate. The downside is brightness loss and added input lag that's insignificant depending on the Game and settings
It doesn't add or fake more frames beyond 60fps, like the S90C does with it's MotionPlus setting. Instead it cuts down over 50% of motion blur, but unfortunately it also doubles input lag from 10ms(or 13ms without boost mode) to 20ms, there's noticeable flickering on whites, too much brightness loss(You can use HDR Module ON in the service menu if you're gaming on a console for a brightness boost, but this increases your chance of burn in and also makes the colours inaccurate), and there's some super nasty shadow detail crushing going on, but PlasmaTVGaming said this can be fixed. Regardless, too many compromises, at least for me, to make it worth while, solely in terms of the higher input lag and weirder colours from HDR Module ON, after getting the BFI black crushing corrected. I hear the LG G3 has less BFI input lag and can get a bit brighter. Either way, it doesn't matter. I don't plan on ever buying a WOLED again. QD-OLED or nothing at this point. It's still a tough pill to swallow forking over $2500 CAD for a 65" S90C knowing that it's BFI game mode setting is useless. Forget about doubling input lag, it triples it. :P
seen this update. Ill wait it out. First video with the tittle i searched for. I do have issue's with old arc. Using it with tos link as old receiver doesn't have HDR anyways. Have HDMI ports for old consoles like Xbox 360. I need to get a new receiver. Already spent most my money on this TV. Got the ps5. Seen another video from the tech show saying there adding more apps. maybe that's local or something. Haven't got a chance on doing the root thing for adding apps. retro arch, kodi and a bunch of others. I almost don't care. most people use a separate box like a Nvidea shield or mini PC.. They said it's ok to do, no issue can always reverse, restarting fresh takes it off. Went to parents tv. it has android with google store. has all those apps to download. kinda a cheaper tv but still. Only got the oled lg only because of hype. Id most likely just get a regular TV and maybe a monitor. This does both.
Yes, unless the Plasma had motion interpolation to go from 30 to 60fps. This is a well known phenomenon with impulse displays, you need fps=Hz. This doesn't happen on sample and hold displays. 60fps at 120Hz looks exactly the same as 60fps at 60Hz on a sample and hold display with some input lag and GtG differences
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 Each time i turned it on it took me to the WebOS home screen and wont allow me to back out and it would say system loading it also gave me messages about app updates available then auto updates apps itself. Very strange. It did this afew times after the update so i unplugged it from the socket and it seems fine for now. Setting menu has a slight lag too this still remains.
I checked everything, and it seems normal. On another note. A new tv technology is coming out by Sharp. It's called Qdel. I wouldn't buy another tv unless my lgc1 dies or I get a really good deal. Qdel technology might be an oled killer.
It just updated after a move LG C1 (reconnected to internet) and now Sonos tv setup states ARC is not enabled. (In arc hdmi port) and the tv will not power off other devices (PlayStation, Apple TV) or change inputs when a device is turned on (Apple TV, PlayStation) Firmware update still blocks all current posted ways to downgrade firmware.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 that didn’t work. Just got the C3 (I’m a sucker for an LG screen) and no issues, friends with C1 also have same issue with cec/arc stopping. Hopefully another update will resolve it. Wonder if I can get a main board replacement and not update.
Anyone else here with a B1? I updated after a long time to 03.40.80 and now i guess i have the luminance issue as well, suddenly picture goes black back and forth. Don’t know what to do but wait for an update….
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 So i disabled the tpc and gsr options in the service menu but it still does a luminance dip, like a little flash but the other way around, so it can’t be the same thing as what people have complained about?
Straight after updating it would not display the default input (HDMI#1) when I turn to on, it shows as default but I have select it… should never have updated.
My issue as well. My directv box is set to hdmi 2,but if I use any app and turn off the TV, the TV does not change over to hdmi off the bat when watching g directv where it used to before the update.
@erniewyles8832 Goto setting, all settings, general, system, additional settings, Home settings, turn off Auto Home Launch and you don't get the WebOS appearing at all. Straight to Default.. mines HDMI1
@@stevenking6550 this worked for me! Not having the home screen come up by default maintains the default input setting. What odd behavior, but it works. My Harmony remote is working the same as before the update, and all inputs and changes are behaving as expected. Thank you for the suggestion and steps. 👍👍👍
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 i managed to figure it out, I had to turn ARC off and on, then I had to make a hard reset via the general and privacy settings. Super weird and annoying but it works again :)
@@plasmatvforgaming9648I do not use any ports.i share my mobile screen via wifi.is it ok with your tv?can you test it out?maybe it's becouse compatibility issues with Xiaomi phones
Yes, because the SDR HDR slider on Win11 is Maxcll 498 and I use it with an ICC profile to fix Originally SDR Gamma 2.2 content (most games) with Dynamic tone Mapping for OLED Motion Pro high
On my set with 3.36.50, the Boost Mode toggle is swapped for the refresh behavior, but not the gamma behavior. If you have slo-mo mode on your phone could you test with 03.40.85? It is really easy to see the scan speed with super slo-mo on my S10.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 the Boost mode 120 Hz for 60 Hz content and the near black and near white gamma changes. They both used to happen together for Boost mode but on my set with 3.36.59 the 120 Hz mode has swapped to turning on when the Boost toggle is off. I verified this with the slo-mo footage I took on my phone which clearly shows two scans per frame with the Boost mode toggle off and one scan per frame with toggle on
QDOLEDs look absolutely terrible in a bright room. OLEDs are a waste in a bright room. Get an LCD for that. The best picture quality requires a completely dark room.
I will never update ever. My C1 has never seen the internet. Too paranoid they'll do something to kill the TV so you buy another one. Which I wouldn't even mind if they didn't keep downgrading the BFI modes every new model year.
@@plasmatvforgaming9648one reason: On the vt plasma of my parents they introduced ads after a non downgradable firmware update. I never updated my f8950 Plasma
It is not better, it just has a different behavior for the sharpness slider (set it to 10 for more sharpness). When STD set the Sharpness slider to 15 for Antialiasing
I usually use FPS mode but I noticed that it deforms some aspects of the image, change between std and fps and look at some text and you will see that there is a deformity in the letters, even if you reduce the sharpness to 0 you will see this deformity caused by some post effect -image processing in fps mode
I just updated and it worked for me ...but I discovered that I can't just hold and release the microphone button and then say the command ...I have to hold the button down while saying turn screen off ...but I don't know if this is new behaviour or not though since this is the first time I tried to turn the screen off with the voice command on the remote
I'm in a shitty loop where it foes to install the update, fails, tells me to reboot (restart) TV, say OK, rinse repeat - anyone see anything like this? I tried installing via USB drive as well and get the error message stating it couldn't be updated properly... Time to get the flamethrower....
Here's the crazy thing - sometimes it lets me uncheck, sometimes it doesn't, regardless when it comes back on it tries to auto-update... Even resetting to initial settings seems to work, then doesn't... I think something whack has happened and am calling LG tomorrow... Lord have mercy on me.@@plasmatvforgaming9648
bro you don't have calibration devices, you have no idea what settings ur touching or what you're doing. "It looks good" doesn't mean "it looks correct"
I don't know why you're still messing with OLED. You're sacrificing so much for those perfect blacks. In reality QLED and OLED black level will look visually indistinguishable unless you had them side-by-side. With your pathetic 150 nits full field brightness and far less than 1,000 nits peak brightness in a measly 3% window, you have never seen HDR. You have simply seen a poor attempt at HDR. Not to mention the dilution of a white subpixel and poor color volume / color gaumet coverage that you get with WOLED. QLED Just utterly destroys OLED All things considered- If you saw what HDR looks like on a high quality QLED You would never look at OLED again.
I sold my Samsung NU8000 LED TV to a family member when I got my LG C1 OLED. Whenever I go to that family members house, I’m always blown away by the picture on that Samsung. I swear the picture looks better than my OLED LG. I bought into the hype of the LG OLED’s. I think I made a huge mistake.
I have a 75 inch Q90T and a 77 C1. Both have pros and cons. I prefer my C1 for movie watching and gaming on certain games. I prefer my Q90T for sports and certain types of movie and video content where the Q90 doesn’t require to be used to control blooming in dark scenes as it is no contest vs the C1. Case in point watched the Dark Knight on my C1 vs Q90T is night and day difference with shadow details and contrast with no blooming period on the OLED. Watched Mario Bros Movie on both TVs and the Q90T HDR killed my C1 with all the colorful scenes in the movie and was just bright gas hell. Like I said both TVs are good just depends on what content you watch more of or if can afford to get both do that so you get. Best of both worlds
@@Patrick-tw7nr HDR is the future and OLED will never be able to properly display it. You're literally missing out on 50% of what HDR has to offer on OLED and this will never change. If you own an OLED you have never seen HDR. That's the simplest way I can put it.
