LifeProof Vinyl Plank Flooring Over Existing Tile Tutorial 

Glad to hear. Good luck on your project. Can't wait to hear how it turned out

Thank you for the comment. And I too believe you can do it. When you buy your flooring just take a look over the directions and you'll see it's not rocket science. Pretty diy friendly. You got this. Let me know how it works out

@Lydia Lopez Were you able to do the vinyl plank install yourself? I would love to know how it turned out!

Good luck, I've been installing for 21 yrs, this bathroom will fail. He needed to grind the high spots in the tile and prep the grout joints with ardex feather finish.

@jesuslopez4113 No he didn't. This bathroom is still good 3 years later. Quit trying to be a know it all. You don't need all that

Thanks man that means a lot. I worked hard on this one 👊

Be careful when buying @Lifeproof Vinyl plank flooring. A lot depends on the constant temperature of the house or building it is being installed in. It was buckle and separate if there is Direct Sunlight coming in from windows or doors. I have 2000 Sq ft I installed and was recommended by the sales associate to buy and install underlayment at the extra cost of over $1000.00 and when the building starts to warm up in the summer the floor lifts at the joints and creates a tripping hazard. I contacted @Homedepot and basically, after 6 months of going through various hoops to resolve the issue they basically take no responsibility for their sales associate's recommendations of selling me underlayment that wasn't necessary to use. Now I have over $6000.00 of Flooring and underlayment that will most likely have to be ripped out!

Thank you for the comment

No Problem. Thanks for the comment

Lol thanks. And now thanks to tik tok I've found a way to cut it even faster. Thanks for the comment

Thank you

That's awesome. Thank you for all you do for your community. People sometimes wonder"how did that happen"... Its because of people like you. Good luck with your project. Have a great day

Would love to see pics before and after. Zconstructionllc@gmail.com. And thanks for the sub. Very grateful

Hi! What type of baseboard is that?

@@j.carras5191 hey man sorry. RU-vid creator studio notifies me for comments but apparently not replies. Anyway this is nothing fancy. Just your basic home depot 5 inch base with stylish top as opposed to the basic profile. Hope that helps.👍

Right on brotha. Good luck on your projects.thanks for the comment

Thank you sir

Thank you sir

@Mike Agar I’m glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment!

You got it my man. Thanks for the comment 💪

Be careful when buying @Lifeproof Vinyl plank flooring. A lot depends on the constant temperature of the house or building it is being installed in. It was buckle and separate if there is Direct Sunlight coming in from windows or doors. I have 2000 Sq ft I installed and was recommended by the sales associate to buy and install underlayment at the extra cost of over $1000.00 and when the building starts to warm up in the summer the floor lifts at the joints and creates a tripping hazard. I contacted @Homedepot and basically, after 6 months of going through various hoops to resolve the issue they basically take no responsibility for their sales associate's recommendations of selling me underlayment that wasn't necessary to use. Now I have over $6000.00 of Flooring and underlayment that will most likely have to be ripped out!

Well I hate to hear that. Yeah some situations will call for a different flooring. I really haven't heard anything about it separating due to direct sunlight. I would say the underlayment make give too much movement. This product has underlayment already attached.And should lay flat on the floor. But honestly I know it's a pain but if you remove the underlayment. If your careful you can use most of the planks to refloor it. Thanks for the comment

Wow how did you attach them? Did they lock together or did you have to glue them in one by one. That's a cool idea. Would love to see pics of that. Youfloor.net@gmail.com thanks for the comment.

No problem!

I am not sure about the peel and stick tiles. I did that a long time ago and you really need a clean flat surface. Over time mine started peeling up. I've used LVT (AKA DURACERAMIC) that is installed with a pressure sensitive glue in the tubs like you mentioned. Once it's laid, it's grouted and looks like tile. I don't know how using glue on a peel n stick would go over.

You're welcome

What's up Matt. Thanks for the comment

No you do not have to leave a gap between baseboard and flooring. Only on the ends. If you are putting flooring down 1st then you can use the baseboard to hide expansion gap then there will be no need for 1/4 round. Unless the subfloor is super wavy on the edges. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

They sell the primer and leveler at Home Depot and lowes. But usually get the Henry stuff from H.D. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment

Hey bud good question. You can glue it down with urethane glue. I made a video gluing down transitions on concrete with no screws. Check it out . It may help. But also it would be to hard to get a masonry bit and drill holes in the tile then put you wall anchors and the screws. Then you can click it in. That is if you prefer to not use glue. Aso make sure it a multi purpose reducer. Not a t mold. Thanks for the

I'm not sure bout that. Only if they are stuck good and not loose. I would probably silicone the cracked tiles and pores at least an 1/8 of floor leveler. If any tiles are loose I would pull them and let the lever flow into the void. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

You got it brotha. Pretty popular

I looked onine for directions and manufacturer recommendations. There was no information on installing over tile. However the lifeproof says that anything over 1/4 grout lines must have the joints floated out with leveling compound. With this material being a little thinner than lifeproof that's not a bad idea. But since your doing it in you own home and not worried about a call back. If your careful to make sure that none of your end joint fall on a grout line. (You know cut a little off the starter if needed). Then its definitely worth a try for only 70 something feet. Will save you time and money. Then if you run into problems that small of an area can be pulled up without damaging planks and then you can repair the problem areas and put it back. If the sales man said you can do it just remember he's a salesman. I would do my own due diligence before make my decision. Thanks for the question.

Wow one inch. Those are tiny. Well I'm not sure what kind of product you have but lifeproof says to put down floor leveler if the grout lines are bigger than 1/4inch. We laid some allure sticky tiles last week and they seemed pretty thin But with those small tiles it should be pretty flat with teeny tiny grout lines. I would look at the Instruction to see what their recommendations are but if I had to go off my gut. AS long as no e of the tiles are broken or loose I would just do light skim coat of floor patch. And then lay right on top of the tile. Remember if you have rough spots and thin material. It could show through. So surface must be attach and flat. Hope's that helps. Thanks for the Question

I would probably tear it out. Once it starts cracking will probably crack more and you don't want loose pieces crunching under your new floor

Is there a linnel against the tile. If there is a piece of metal that runs acrossed the edge of the the tile. If so I would a piece of tack strip. You know those wood strips with the little nail all over it. Take one of those or a couple if it is a big opening and install it about a 1/4inch away from the kennel. Then when you put the carpet over the tack strip you can tuck it down into the 1/4 inch gap and the two floors will be flush. If the carpet is thin and the tile is high you may have to stack two pieces of tack strip on top of each other to bring your carpet level up. If there is no lennel you can either install one or just get one of those metal strips that you can nail from carpet to tile. Its about an inch and a 1/4 wide and you put nails in the middle with a hammer. Be careful not to break to tile. Go easy when you get close. Hope that helps. Let me know how it works out. Thanks for the question.

I use aurethane glue made by loc tight. Home depot or lowes both carry this product and you can get it on Amazon. It will say 3X on the label. Hope that helps.

This floor is called Sterling oak. Thanks for the comment

Why. Thank you. And thanks for the comment

Are you Talking about the saw I used to cut the circle out or the chopper.

Hey thanks for the question. That would depend on how high it is. If it is 1/16th of an inch or right at an 1/8 of an inch it should be fine . But a more than that and I would just tear it out and install a new transition the color or the new floor. Or you could grind it down provided it doesn't break. Or you could use some Henry's floor patch to float it out with a very slight slope. Unnoticeable to the eye. Hope that helps. Thanks again for the comment

If we get to a tiled kitchen I'll definitely keep it in mind. Thanks for the comment

I have messed up so much in the beginning if my career on this one that I stopped resetting toilets and just paid to have them done. I do my own now and I make sure the flange is sitting on top of the finished floor. Not flush with the floor. Hope that helps Thanks for the question

No vapor barrier is needed when installing LVP over wood. If you are going to seal the perimeter with silicone, you should do it while installing the trim so you can press the trim down into the wet silicone to create a water barrier around the edge of the flooring.

Well to be honest I don't really install any of my own toilets I hire someone to do that for me as I am not a plumber however I have gone back to numerous houses to do more work and the toilets seemed to be fine you just need to make sure that your wax ring is sealed to the toilet flange. Trust me I know your worries on that I've had a few toilet leaks myself which is why I don't install toilets. Hope that helps thanks for the question

Man I have thought about your situation and it sounds luke someone may have laid tile on detra or the actual subfloor. Maybe they used backer board it obviously wasn't thick enuff and installed with thin set underneath. I had a problem about 10 years ago. Where the company I was installing for made us use detra. If there is an area with a long spand some times deflection will create a little to much flex for the grout. See it's like concrete. It's not made to bend. Or it will break. I had to fix the grout 3 times o. A job. Finally I used a latex grout made to flex. Epoxy grout can work too but very messy. So Honestly if I were installing it , because of warranty I would probably pull the tile. I would hate for the tile to start cracking and grout start crumbling. And creating g a crunchy sound under your new floor. Hope I explained that well.

If you are talking about sheet vinyl as opposed to planks. Then yes and no. If there are no tears in the old vinyl, and it is completely glued down wall to wall and flat, you should be OK. But, any folds, lines, tears, bumps, or even uneven subfloor will telegraph through the new vinyl. If it is loose layed and just stapled on the edges. I would pull it. You can cut it up in 3 foot rolls, tape it up, and throw it in the garbage can. If you have ac vents in the floor. You can look for staples, and if you see some, you can pull a couple. Slide a flat heD or butter knife and see if the viynl lifts up. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

Thank you. You are absolutely 💯 correct. Shame on me. Thanks for the comment

I would try to rough up the tiles in that are with a grinder. ( MAKE SURE TO PREPARE GOUSE FOR DUST). NOT A LOT JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE THE LEVELER STICK. Then roll on some of the bonding liquid . (USE A PAINT ROLLER). And then pour some floor lever out our the dip. Let it run over a little so you can feather it out on the edges. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

If it was just one it would be OK but if you have several loose tiles it would probably be best to pull the tile floor and lay on the sub floor. Thanks for the question

There's 3 way I do this. Each situation is different. But if your subfloor is wood you can leave you normal expansion gap and then nail your 1/4 round at an angle into the subfloor allowing your new floor to still have freedom for expiation (which really isn't a lot with lifeproof) if your on concrete you can use silicone to attach it and I I put a small bead on the floor against the tub and a line with small gaps on the tub side. I fill those gaps with hot glue. That hold pretty good til the silicone dries. Last suggestion. Check out my latest video "installing pergo outlast and go towards the end where I show how to scribe the last row. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BUJ8DtYOEII.html. Unless your planks are diving into the tub than this method will get you really close to the tub with a small consistent gap that matches the contour of the tub. Then you can just caulk with white or clear silicone. No 1/4round needed. Also as long as the tile is adhered good. I wouldn't see the problem . Thanks for the question

If it's only base tile then I would remove it and put real baseboard but if it's wall tile I usually use hot glue and silicone. Hope that helps

Ha well to be honest, we don't have to set the toilets. I usually have a plumber from ARS come and reinstall. When I am on a Home Depot job they usually schedule a plumber for me. I'm sure if I did all the research I could be great at it. But I look at it like this. I can't install a toilet like a plumber just like I wouldnt want the plumber to install my floor. We all have our strengths. Flooring is mine and I create an opportunity for a plumber to get his piece of the pie. And it comes with a guarantee. Thanks for the question

If this is a floating floor, it doesn't matter which direction you run it. Some people run it the opposite way just to break things up if it's not a perfect match. But if it is the exact same product ,I would run it the same way. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR Yes same floor. Great TY

As long as none of the tiles are loose. I would either grind them down flush or put some floor leveler over the entire floor until all slippage is gone. If it is only a slight lip you should be ok. But once you get over an 1/8 inches It could create some Teetering over that point. Small lips shouldn't affect it. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment

Do you mean little rocks on a sheet with thin set? Should be OK but would definitely seal off any areas where water can get under any floating floor . Hope that helps Thanks for the question

You can, but you're going to want to level off all the grout joints so the floor is completely flat. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

No ma'am. Because of the moisture it will probably not stick. Not to mention it could be spongy. Best to pull up the rug and get a floating floor. Sticky tiles require a lot of prep or they will fail. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR ty so much i painted the rug instead...thanks

Well, with everything you're saying. It doesn't sound like a good idea to leave the tile. Especially if they have been recalled. Also, if it is big tile, there is definitely a good chance that it will crack more. You don't want To hear crunching noise under your new floor I know you don't want to hear this, but if it was me installing it, I would probably bite The bullet and pull it. If you do, make sure to seal off the doorways cause it is pretty dusty and try to pull tile in big pieces so it is easier at The dump. Use contractor bags to sweep up tile rocks and dust and mortal, but only fill The bags 1/3 full. They get heavy quickly. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

There is no good way to do that. I would not advIse that. When you install 1/4 plywood on wood subfloor, you need a minimum of 4 inches In Between each staple to ensure a good hold. Without being able to staple thru the tile, you will need to pull the tile and build back up til you are level with thw ml other floor. Sorry to have to tell you that. Hope that helps. Thanks for the Question

I'm sure it will be ok but you may have to seal up all all the cracks or holes so your leveler does leak away. Also COMPLETELY SEAL OFF the toilet pipe. You sure dont want that stuff going down you sewer pipe Whew that would not be a good day. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

Well we usually have a plumber co.e set our toilets. But I did some research and from what I gathered the flange really needs to sit about a 1/4 above the finished floor( if the floor can't be installed under the flange. Which is preferred) if the flange is too low there will be a gap between the wax and the bottom. Causing water to leak from the bottom. This can be undetectable for months (don't ask me how I know) Like I said I usually have a plumber reset my toilets with a guarantee. 😁 But to answer your question. Yes you would probably need a flange extension if it sits too low. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.

I left expansion against vanity and walls bit ran it pretty tight against the tub. Use 100 white silicone at crack. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR thank you, this video has me thinking that I might be able to tackle this installation myself. What would you do if you were replacing the vanity and there was no tile underneath?

You would need to chip off any clumps on the edges up against where the vanity used to be. Just so the is no humps then, I would cut a piece of plywood to set in the old spot. And then smooth the whole thing over with floor patch or floor leveler. Be sure to plug any nail holes and cracks and even under base boards if you're using leveler. That stuff can run behind walls if you let it get away. Also if you pour a thin layer over the tiles to fill in grout lines. Definitely use a primer so it sticks to the tile.Hope that helps. Feel free to ask any questions.You can also email us at youfloor.net@gmail.com.

@@YOUFLOOR this helps, thank you for the great content and guidance!

If the rest of the tile is adhered good and there is no risk of future cracking. Then what I would do is take that tile out and clean the are of any loose grout or debris. Then pour a layer of floor leveler over the whole area so that the leveler fills in the void from the missing tile. When it fills in and runs over you'll have one solid smooth surface. Definitely put the roll on primer 1st if your going over tile. You want tit to stick. If you follow the directions for mixing on the bag you really can't mess this up.and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how flat it makes the subfloor for your new flooring. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question.

I'm thinking the metal strip you're talking about is a lineal. It slides under the tile and caps the end to hd the tile in straight. If that's the case it can be tricky. I'd really like to help. If it's possible could you send me a pic of the situation so I can get a good look for an accurate solution. Look forward to hearing from you. Zconstructionllc@gmail.com

@@YOUFLOOR Thank you Zeon. I sent you an email a few days ago with some pics and an explanation. Thank you for your insight.

@Ward Fisk I just emailed you. Let me know if you have any questions!

As long as the tile is bonded well. And you can get thre new plywood as close ad you can to the tile and close enuff in heigjt. I would seal up any cracks with silicone and great stuff and pour a thin layer of floor leveler to make a smooth transition between the 2 floors. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR Great, thanks for the tips.

@@YOUFLOOR would you use 3/8” cdx or 3/8 cds ply?

Not sure what cds is. But any kind of play wood will work as lo g as it is the same thickness. I wouldnt buy expensive plywood as it getting covered up. Osborne is the flattest but some of the other can be cheaper. Just be selective. Remember you get what you pay for. Hope that helps. Thanks again for the questions. Good luck on your project.

I use Kinemaster and I do all my editing on my android. I used to use power director but kinemaster offered more at the time. Since then P.D. have really upped their game. Both have free versions. Also my 1st year on tube(last year) I filmed everything on my android. But I promised myself when I hit 1000 subs I could buy a real camera. I made a video about it. Now I use a sony Zv1. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR thanks so much!

Absolutely. And I use a waterproof caulk. White with silicone. Thanks for the question

When you say viynl I assume you mean viynl planks. If you mean sheet vinyl disregard any of this. Bit if the area at the door is small I would go ahead and remove that down to the rest of the subfloor. Then if it is only a 1/4 inch you can use luan as a fill to bring up the height. It's cheap and makes a great filler. Or if you don't want to go that route you can always check out my video " how to transition from a higher surface to a lower surface. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR Thank you. I will be using luan from what I see. I appreciate your quick response.

@James Wallace It could cause an issue later on down the road. Check to make sure the tile is still bonded good, maybe silicone the crack and/or skim the floor with a floor patch. If it is just loose laying, I would pull it and fill it in with patch and check the floor for other loose tiles, if you have one there could be more. Thanks for the question.

This is an easy one. If you take some floor patch or thin set you should be able to fill it in and level it off with the top of the tile. May want to ruff up the tile around it for good adhesion and use a little primer. But as long as the rest of the tiles are struck good you should be in business. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR. Thank you very much for your help!!!!!!

This product comes with the underlayment already battached

I did some research last night. As I have never messed with epoxy floors, but from what I gathered, there is an epoxy floor leveler you can pour over epoxy. You would just have to scuff it up with a sander. I have never had to prep an epoxy floor for installation, but I'm sure I could figure it out eventually. Great question. Sorry, I don't have a great answer right now, but that video needs to be out there. Thanks for the idea as well

@@YOUFLOOR thank you for your research!

If you have 1 or two just rem ok ve them and fill with floor patch/ floor leveler. But if you have broke tiles in several spots. I would pull them all. Sounds like they will all crack at some point. The tile in my kitchen did that. The tiles were too big. Whoever installed it, didn't use tile board underneath . Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR it makes sense thank you!

@Linda Olson LVP does not expand like wood does but your house is built of wood so a small expansion gap is required. Maybe the video quality isn't good or I didn't show spacers in the video, but there is usually a 3/16 gap around the entire perimeter of the job unless I am going up against a tub. On a tub, I like to get as close as possible and use 100% silicone to seal the crack. Silicone is flexible and will still allow floors to move as needed.

@@YOUFLOOR Thank you for getting back to me and yes your video does not show the spacers, it looks like it goes right up to the wall, so that is what we were going to do, so glad you got back to me. Yes we have a tub plus a shower. Linda

Well if the tile is not bonded good or the thin set under has become week and started to crumble, then you would hear that when you walk on it now. But if it feels real stiff and the grout joints are solid I think it's ok. I mean if your not having issues with it cracking now, I wouldn't think it would start cracking or crumbling because you layed a floating floor on top. Shop vac really good. Hope that helps. Thanks for thre question

I get what you are saying because I have several hollow tiles throughout the house but how did you know Judy what asking about the tile, lol? She didn't specify what was noisy 🤔. I only just started researching vinyl planks but learned that some come with noise barrier (quality underlayment) already attached like the Lifeproof you used but some don't come with quality (or any), right? Maybe that is why she is getting conflicting opinions? I will ask about the hollow tiles though separately in case that's not what she is asking about. Thank you _ p.s. great video

Well the subject of the video is viynl over tile. Sometimes with engineered wood the over spray from the stain can drip over the sides and harden up. Then when you put the 2 planks together they will rub from not being fully seated due to the over spray and it will cause cracking and popping when walked on. In most cases laminate and vinyl are made different. The locking system doesn't allow for a lot of movement. However with the lifeproof, it's a drop and lock so definitely use a straight edge to check for small concetrted dips. Because it is floating, Any drastic dips could cause one side to pull loose when walked on. Then later when walking on the plank beside it. It will lock back down creating the same click or popping as when initially installed. If you don't do a good sweep and shop vac, any debris underneath (like small pieces of grout) will crunch when being walked on. This can also happen when the this set underneath the tile is not mixed right causing the bond to break loose and stay hidden to the naked eye. But over time it will start cracking and if you dont take care of it before. It's too late once you've laid the new floor. So be sure there is no hollow spots cause also the tile could break and then the nightmare begins. Even if you pour floor leveler over the whole thing it will not help if the tile installation was not done properly. Hope I explained that well enuff. Sometimes I ramble. Like right now. Lol.and it doesn't make sense. Thanks for the comment and question.

No your ok. There is pad attached to the bottom. However it wouldn't hurt to skim coat of floor patch or self leveler to fill in the grout lines. I believe the directions say to do that if the grout lines are a 1/4 inch or bigger. There's a very small section about this in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR thanks for the reply. I was thinking to be safe to put some self leveling concrete but not sure if it really needs it.

Yeah I've seen that stuff before and have tore it out. Miserable experience. There are a couple things you will need to address. First ...yes I would pour some floor leveler over the whole thing to fill in the grout joints and smooth the over all floor all together. But before you do. Make sure you are going to be able to open the front door. And decide how you are going to finish it off. B e c ause a pice of quarter round may not fit. With the door. You don't need an additional underlayment with lifeproof. The pad is attached. Hope that helps.feel free ti ask any other questions. I'll find the answer if i dont know itThanks

@@YOUFLOOR makes sense thank you so much for your input! We were going to replace all the doors in the living room / front entry way / as well as the master bedroom since they all have too many freaking windows lol 😂 so we planned on getting doors to fit once the new flooring is in. Thankfully the grout lines aren’t as deep as most Saltillo flooring so getting them leveled shouldn’t be too bad.

Most of the time, I try to cut my planks up tight to the tub and then seal it with silicone. But if you're using 1/4 round against the tub. And you have a pretty nice size gap, then you would want to use backer rod/caulk saver. Place it in 1st and then seal up the gap with silicone. Place your 1/4 round in the silicone and fire your nails down at an angle into the gap. Then, I always put a small bead of white silicon caulk on the top so water doesn't seep behind it. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

5 pieces of laminate put together doesn't weigh as much as your refrigerator, and that is in one location. Spread out all over the floor... you should be fine. Make sure your baseboard won't be too short. May need to pull it 1st, then install laminate and then reinstall base on top. Won't need 1/4 if you do that. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question

Yes you would be surprised at how smooth the floor leveler comes out. I would definitely fill those in and then feather it out over the surrounding tiles for a smooth transition. Good luck on your project. Thanks for the comment

Will do. Thanks for the advice

Have you already installed the flooring up against the tub. If so you can install 1/4 against the tub. I would suggest using real wood or a water proof material as opposed to the mdf. Use silicone to seal the gap between the floor and tub. Nail the 1/4 down through the gap in the floor at a slight angle. If you haven't installed the flooring yet let me know and I'll tell you how to get it real close with a small gap and a nice fine caulk line. Now if the floor is installed already. Another option to help with the jaggedness if you don't like the 1/4 round. Take some tape and put it on the floor as close to the tub as you can (without touching the tub)without going over the gap. Now you can caulk against the tub and when you pull the tape the outside of your caulk line will be clean and straight. Hope that helps. Sorry for the long answer . Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR no prob w the long answer, very thurl! I'm leaning towards the quarter round however i think I'll use an adhesive. Nailing would be tricky considering the gap.

Hot glue in a couple spot will help hold it in place while the real adhesive sets up.

@@YOUFLOOR thanks boss!

@@YOUFLOOR which adhesive would you recommend for the quarter round? Im looking PL premium fast grab.

This floor was smooth and level. Thanks for the comment

Yes but how would you do that if the tile is almost 1/2 inch higher than the other flooring. Also with this type of flooring we recommend putting a transition in high water areas. If the toilet ever over flows or you get a water leak. If you catch it in time then you won't have to tear the whole install out. A transition will give you the option of tearing out only the bathroom. We also lay it all out for the customer to choose. But when the floors are two different heights. Transition is the only way to make it happen unless you tear out the tile and build the subfloor level with each other. Great comment. Thanks

Ar right yea forgot you went over tiles lol

Yes but I usually use real wood as opposed to the cardboard 1/4 round. And 100% silicone under the 1/4 round and on top to prevent any water from splashing from going under the flooring. If you can get a nice tight line with your flooring you may not need 1/4 round but I would leave a very small expansion gap that is not too visible once a bead of silicone is layed down. Thanks for the question

@@YOUFLOOR thanks!

Have you ever seen vinyl siding on someone's house that is buckling. that is because vinyl is made to be hung not nail when you drive the nail tight the vinyl expands and contracts With extreme heatand cold so it doesn't have Room to move. this is the same concept with viynl flooring however if you keep the temperature in your house very consistent there shouldn't be a lot of expansion and contraction but I would leave at least in a 1/8 inch just to be on the safe side. This may help you out later if you have to shoot a nail through the quarter around down through the floor because you can't catch a stud. Hope that helps thanks for the question

Hey Elizabeth. To be honest if I were doing it for a customer. I would skim coat the floor with o henry floor patch. That wont cost much and will fill in the dips nice and smooth Hope that helps. thanks for the question

You do not need an underlayment if the pad is attached. Plastic vapor barrier is needed if installing laminate on concrete but not lvp

I'm planning on doing it over tile, that's why thought maybe underlayment would be needed

No, you should be fine to go right over he tile. Good luck on your project

Absolutely! And getting more jobs from this customer. If you know what you're doing it will last. Thanks for the comment

Actually y that is the wrong way to do it. It's okay to put cabinets on tile viynl or nailed down hardwood. But when installing floating floors you need to install up to the cabinets setting heavy objects on floating floors can actually prevent them from expanding and contacting as floating floors do. But thanks for trying

@@YOUFLOOR I agree with you as the floor needs to expand, but let's be honest, while the cabinet does have weight to it, is not that heavy. The toilet may be heavier than the cabinet...thanks

👍

Definitely not a bad idea. I like your style. Thanks for the comment

Lol

No comment👎

It's my pleasure. Thanks for the comment