YouFloor Flooring Tips & Tricks is dedicated to helping the average DIY individual and assisting them with tips, tricks, knowledge, and answers to questions about flooring, cabinets, trim, framing or any other form of construction. If we don’t know the answer ... we’ll find it. I have been installing flooring of all types since 2008. I have seen a lot of situations and ran into some dilemmas. Hopefully the things I have learned and share can be used by you, to get you through the tough situations. It gives my heart joy. 😁 Thank you to all the supporters, subscribers, and haters of this channel. We wouldn't be here without all of you. Tell a friend about the channel - send them the link ➡️ ru-vid.com
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Dude- I have done my 1st room with a beadboard, chair rail/ cove moulding and quarter round - using your system of notating numbering / naming your cuts. I will never not use that system! I still feel like I have to check my 1st cut on 1 side on wall before I cut the other side… until I get better. I have been doing the mitered returns, or trying to do them. U just solved the mystery of why those returns are not matching on some of the quarter rounds, omg I thought I was losing my mind. I love the material and appreciate your time. Idea for future… would love more on mitered returns for base, moulding, any kind of wood application. And how do you put in a baseboard transition when heights are different from one wall / room to another. Thanks and I will keep watching!
Very glad to hear of your success. Thanks for the idea for the video. That would make a great tutorial. Keep on doing your thing and good luck to you on your projects
The stair nose wouldn't look right from a hallway to a bedroom though. Any suggestions for a hallway that we have previously laid down LVP over top of it. To now where we tore the carpets and pads out of the bedrooms and put LVP down but our installer is having a hard time figuring out hit to do the transition from the hallway to the bedrooms. there is a 3/4 height difference. One transition is now broken that we had with the hallway install. The other two bedrooms still have the original transition strip on . Can we just maybe cut a piece of angled wood that fits underneath of that transition strip and extend it out a bit further, then glue it on to it?
Very helpful tips on the particle board. (I have to do this, too!) But why add the new plywood? Couldn't you just nail down the hardwood to the plywood that was already there? (Too thin?)
You can as long as it 3/4 inch and there is no big floor height difference. Sometimes it’s necessary to keep all the floors the same level. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
First time using my miter saw, and I’ve got my written out instructions just like you had them, and it’s nice to have a system. The returns are tricky for a little triangle, I am the customer ha ha so I do want them. I feel like I learned a new language, thank you very much.
I am doing my whole 2nd floor starting in my master bedroom. Would you recommend starting in a closet and working my way out or find the middle of the room and start there?
If it were me, I would find the straightest wall to start on. If you are installing Pergo Outlast, it is quite easy to install backwards. Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work through your project. Tks for the question.
Thank you. Terminology is of the utmost importance. We must speak the same language. What seems logical to me as a nurse may not mean a thing to you. Same for construction, us newbies need to understand and you do a great job of explaining lingo.
I have seen how hard it can be to get away without dusting a whole house. That is because I know a person who removed thin set. I can just imagine the tedious nightmare it is. Then that dust was everywhere. It is worse than that, it gets all over you and takes forever to shampoo that crap out of your hair too!!
I just have some cat urine that made it to the layer under the foam and I am praying it didn't go deeper. What about just taking that OSB layer off to not just put down a fresh piece but to inspect under it while it is off?
great tips! thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Now I just need to figure out if I can do the 44° and 46° cuts using my miter box. I don't have a miter saw at the moment 😅
If you buy your pergo at home depot the underlayment is attached to the bottom. It is not at Lowes. Pergo sells an uderlayment called pergo gold if you want extra. But never cover wood subfloor with any kind of plastic. It will trap moisture and create mold and rot over time. Only on concrete should you use a plastic moisture barrier. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
with the pergo outlast+ it seems that there are no options for a flush stair/edge bullnose. the pergo brand stair edge overlaps the top of the flooring similar to what you used. Is that the only things you've had experience with?
I've had a couple like that but don't remember the brand. One time I took a stair tread and a vinyl plank. I clipped The plank to the tread at the front. Then took a heat gun and shaped it over the round nose. I used a 2x4 wrapped in cloth to not scratch it. Then ran it back and forth as I blew a heat gun on it. It took the shape of the stair tread underneath. And I had a custom plank with nose built in. Then I just cut the back piece to fit. With I recorded it. I thought I made a video for it but I guess I didn't. Hope that gives you something to think about. Thanks for the question
Hey bloke , just come across this video and watched how you do the quods.. or as you say quarter round..I’ve been doing this for 35 years and I’m not being rude or nasty but you make it sound complicated..have you ever tried to scribe out one of the quods instead of 2 / 45 deg cuts. To me it’s better as if you get movement your 45’s open up..by scribing they don’t and you only need half of the measurements you have taken..again I’m not being rude it’s just that I use quarter round every day of the week…cheers
Thanks to this guy’s videos, I did a close to perfection job in my house. First time floor project for me but I score 100 points on ego and 100 points with the wife 👍🏼Thanks buddy !!
Thanks for sharing this, it's informative as I face a potentially rotted subfloor. I'm not experienced at this, so take my questions as truly curious ones, right? At 9:41, is it ideal to have to essentially force in the replacement subfloor? I wonder about allowing room for expansion and avoiding buckling if it swells. Similar thought about 11:46, would it be better to cut the new pieces a hair smaller to allow for expansion? Trim will cover the gaps against the cabinet, flooring will cover the seams near the toilet pipe. Good work, the results are terrific! You do good work!
About to tackle this job and save my husband 5k from the handyman’s quote! I’ve been nervous about the doorways but this video showed me everything I need to know. Thank you so much!
That is how it is supposed to work. A lot of times we will seal the perimeter with silicone to keep any spills on top of the flooring. Tks for the question.
Thank you for posting these videos. They are very informative. I was curios about waterproofing the pergo laminate floor I will be installing. Do you need to backer rod and silicone under the transitions?
Absolutely. If you are using a metal track, you can put it in the center of the gap.And put your backer rod on both sides of the track and squirt.A little silicone right on top of the foam To seal it up. Hope that helps thanks for the question
