Hey, Mike. Thanks for showing us "the good, the bad, and the ugly" in addition to the molding process that worked quite well in the end. In case you plan to continue experimenting with molds for silicone fins, I have a couple of suggestions. (Note that I've used both materials mentioned, but not for making masters or molds.) First, the next time you make masters for a set of silicone fins, try using HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) plastic board/sheet. I use small blocks of either Starboard or one of its competitors, like Seaboard. This stuff cuts cleanly and will take the sharp grooves you put into your fins. Most important is that almost nothing adheres to it. So, when you make masters with the stuff, whatever mold material you choose isn't likely to stick. (I'd be happy to send you some scraps to "play" with.) Second, I recommend that you try standard gray/yellow Milliput two-part epoxy putty for your next fin molds. This is neat stuff-it's easy to shape with wet fingers, has a long working time, and cures hard as the proverbial rock. Quite a few RU-vidrs use Milliput when making molds for small, intricate parts like toy soldiers. I looked up what the manufacturer recommends for release agents, and it's "a light coating of oil or talcum powder." I strongly suspect that any of the mold releases you already have would work fine. The grouper is coming along nicely, and I can't wait to see you swim -er, glide-it in a nearby bass lake! Best, Chris (in Maine)
Hello and thank you for commenting! I think I actually have some HDPE laying around from a different project to mess with. I'm a little on the fence about carving fins vs. woodburning them. Might have to do a head to head comparison. I am really interested in the Milliput idea for the fin molds. I appreciate your input and thank you for watching!
One thing I found with any kind of top or bottom fins it that they effect the swim action. Keeping them as flexible as possible is key to keep the roll of the lure. Don't forget that smooth on offers a flexed that can be added to their plastics. The poly can be torn or ripped off. The harder plastics with the flexer additives are more durable.
I agree that the fins for sure make a big impact on the swim. I have been pleased with the Smooth-On products that I have used. I had researched some of their products for making these fins, but availability was the biggest issue. I did not know about the flexer additives; that is hood yo know. Hopefully some of these products will become more available for me to try. Thanks for watching and sharing your expertise!
Gastonfish here I make all of my silicone fin molds from silicone. With the proper release it works perfectly. More you use them the better the work and no they do not stick together.
Loved this idea. For the internal area where the silicone putty was used, i wonder how JB Weld Water putty would substitute? Thanks for sharing your creativity!
for the wood in the middle I would simply use wood that is the same thickness as I want the fins to be, cut out the shape of the fins and carve the lines for the fins on each side of the thicker wood with a Dremel or a similar tool, that way you don´t have to mess with a second material
