#welding #automotive Many do not know how to weld aluminum, cheap and fast many don't know how to weld aluminum other than tig welding, there are many ways to weld aluminum, one of which is in this video
These repairs have been around since oxyacetylene was integrated into the auto repair shop. It' s called gas welding. I do it all the time. Two thumbs up. 👍👍
Well I guess as it's only a cover a full strength weld is not required, however I'm not so sure just giving it a quick brush covers the fact it should be spotlessly clean before attempting to weld or in this case solder a huge chunk of material over a split .
For a flywheel dust cap fix, this weld is very VERY good! A little grinding and it'll be like new. Whoever says the opposite must be one of those guys from the bad clan of welders who are always alarmists, criticize beginners and think that if you weld a piece of crap you have around you're useless if it doesn't have the integrity of a nuclear reactor.
Or, they may know the difference between welding and melting. Heating up the aluminum and the smearing the top layer to close cover the crack isn't welding. A weld should be stronger than the material around it. This may work for this application, but per the title of the video, it's not welding more "like" brazing.
@@DualsPortvet absolutely. Now, may I use an aluminimum MMA electrode (without the coating ?) to do such a "gluing" I need to repair a hinge for a bycicle, essentielly the ring is holding the axis in place I suppose a lesser resistance is acceptablme. I heve the aluminium rods, but I am afraid to melt the ring vey easily .. Now, is it possible to solder copper or bronze commer on the aluminium of that bycicle frame ? THANKS (a lot)
Melhor conselho alumínio quebrou joga fora a solda nunca fica resistente. A não ser se for soldada com gás argônio e a vareta com a liga certa prá aquele tipo de alumínio.
Mig with spool gun works too. I have used aluminum electrodes with a stick welder. The metal has to be about 1/8 minimum. The thinner the faster you have to go.
I have welded broken outboard skegs back on, and extensions for worn ones, with stick. They disappear fast so you have to feed it in fast and move fast along the join.
Flacăra nu e uniformă la becul de sudură, deci are zgură pe interior. Trebuie curățat din când în când ca flacăra să fie ascuțită, pentru a concentra temperatura la vârf. Nu înlocuit, ci curățat ! Meseriaș e cel care repară, nu cel ce înlocuiește cu ceva nou ! Pentru eficiență și mai mare, mai ales la sudarea cu GPL (vezi filmul meu, unde modific becul de acetilenă și merg cu GPL care e de 20 de ori mai ieftin) se găurește capul de cupru , de la interior către exterior, cu un burghiu conic, pentru a face gaura conică și să concentreze temperatura în vârful flăcării. Poți înlocui materialul pregătit din alte piese, cu electrozi înveliți din aluminiu. Pasta de pe ei asigură o decapare perfectă, și nu mai e nevoie de electrodul de oțel pentru a sparge oxidul. Bravo, orice-ar spune „specialiștii” , eu te felicit și fă treabă în continuare ! Numai cine nu poate spune că nu ține ! E foarte greu si trebuie să ai mână și experiență, pentru a nu topi toată piesa, în loc s-o sudezi !
Love all the criticism in the comments, Arguing structural integrity. Looks like a cover of some sort. I don't believe it's going to be under much stress. Does the job
I weld alluminium via Tig usually, i'm going to try flame as well. I'm figuring out you need a very reducing flame and the iron rod is used to mix the melted joint ....
I think the iron rod is to get out impurities. I think that's why you hear him always tapping, I think it's to flick impurities off the rod so he can melt some more and pull out more impurities with a freshly flicked and clean rod lol
Pretty amazing as what he accomplished. I hope in the future that he will clean the part first. I can't resist, what is the AWS specification for his filler rod? 🙂
La tecnica es curiosa , el problema que veo yo es que la deformacion de esa carcasa al calentarla provocara una deformacion en los planos que ya no acoplara correctamente ni al motor ni el eje del ciguenal. pero como concepto esta bien. un saludo
hello, but the electrode that you use and for aluminum ? How many degrees does the electrode you are using melt? I wanted to know if I can repair a scooter radiator with an electrode or can I try with durafix type rods? Thank you
He wasn't using the rod as filler. He was using it to get nice and hot, and mix the base metal under the dross, flicking it off. Once he had it hot and 'melded', he came in with some filler aluminum. You'll notice he went back and forth, removing the oxide layer with the electrode first.
I stick welded a riding lawnmower blade mounting bracket. On two blade mower. I’m bad at cleaning. But I got the new aluminum rod hot. Enough. I goobered it up. And kept grinding cuts with. Dirty grinder wheel. Lol. But I penetrated good enough. Old man whent strait back to rock pile I told him not to. It held. Lol lol lol. The the more high tec welds . Like bike frame . I would clean more and get gas shield blowing on it. Or more flux. Good enough job.
Estou iniciando com solda agora . Esse tipo de solda é com gás argonio no maçarico com vareta de alumínio. Fique curioso me parece perfeito pra soldar peças mais frágeis
Well if it works then fair enough. However, I see the gap distance tolerance would be out and it looked warped. I guess the angle grinder is your friend😅
it's just a lid, a cover with a crack that does not seem to have the purpose to hold a great mechanical stress, so, that quick fix in this case (only) is good enough if you don't want to buy a spare part
He uses the electrode (flux covered) rod just to push and mix the metal. The alumium he uses looks like recycled stuff. Better to use a quality aluminium welding rod. All alumiium welding rods are not the same.
@@user-gb3hm1rq8b le tenemos más confianza a la vini tape negra japonesa. Revienta cuando quieres que reviente y se estira siempre lo suficiente que presisas en especial en el verano.
I was taught to heat the material up to 700C then let the rod melt into the weld. The alloy melting temp is 1200C. The melted rod will then adhere to the alloy on a molecular level providing a good, strong bond. What he shows is equivalent to spak filler. Not all rods are born equal and youtube Project Farm has tested 3 alum rod brands that work.
Ну это не сварка, это пайка. Знаю, потому что покупал подобные припои и пробовал с помощью газокислородной горелки делать подобное...но стоимость этих припоев и соответственно прочность шва... лучше тогда купить электрод шведский по алюминию и заварить без проблем. А если действительно хотите чуть ли не даром, то угольный электрод от солевой батарейки, сварочный инвертор, флюс для алюминия " Харрис" и вперёд...
It’s probably super common alloy casting. Maybe a356. You should preheat it but you should not heat it above 450C. And you have to stress relief after a weld repair like this. Maybe heat to 320C, hold for 30 minutes and then ramp down 30° per hour for three hours. Then remove from the oven and allow to cool in ambient temperature.
Видел я газовую сварку алюминия. Сам сварщик. Свариваю алюминий каждый день. Знаю как это делается. Как то не так 😏подготовка "на высоте "🤣🤣🤣🤣про монолитность шва и отсутствие дефектов можно забыть вовсе. А так то есть электроды для ММА сварки по алюминия, есть миг сварка при помощи полуавтомата))) что быстрее и по итогам дешевле этого творчества... Про тиг на переменном токе вообще молчу. Это по-умолчанию приоритетный тип сварки в ремонтных мастерских... ( без кузовного ремонта)
В середине 80-х варил поддоны от лодочного мотора "Вихрь" точно таким же способом. Флюса или аргона и близко не было. Но поддоны работали, где-то и по сей день один валяется в гараже.
Это не сварка, это пайка алюминия, припой типа А5 или зарубежный аналог кастолин, кабельщики и холодильщики пользуются подобной технологией пайки алюминия с 60х-70х годов, а мастер конечно Красавчик, руки из плеч, результат впечатляет, дороговато конешно 1 пруток кастолина в нашем регионе 750р. деревянных + пропан 1350р. 50литровый балон+кислород 1200р. Отсюда и ценник за такую работу конский, помоемому берут 500р. за сантиметр
Не , это припой по влюминию...Паял в 90-х годах оловом испарители алюминиевые ... Оловом чтобы паять нужна ещё железная стружка , чтобы разрушать оксидную плёнку....Алюминий поэтому тяжело паяется из-за оксидной плёнки...
@@user-zx8up4qx7zпару лет назад сам понял радиатор мотоцикла сузуки (знакомый просил), понял автогеном пропановой горелкой, припой А5, зачистил железной щёткой, затем грел радиатор и втирал как-бы этот припой, получилось неплохо, до сих пор катается.
Why do you think that ALL leading companies use expensive and hard to use TIG equipment as a third world farmer boy can do it better with prehistoric methods? Yes it can be done this way, but dont expect any quality compared to TIG welding.
Удивительно много людей, оказывается, понимает в ацетиленовой сварке,хотя в последнее время она практически вымерла. В 2000 году варил много и уверенно, наконечники горелок гнул и ковал сам из медной трубки...
Горячий газ водоростей,, и да все прекрасно верится, применение в судостроении, газ водород очень опасньій. По етому такая сварка применяется на предприятиях имеющих установки по производству водорода.
O serviço ficou lindo, aparência muito boa. Gostaria de saber sobre a funcionalidade da peça recuperada. Fechou direitinho, houve vazamento? Essas peças costumam deformar com muita facilidade.
If weld properly,its wont leak and deform,in the video u can see he using,stick rod to remove the oxidation layer after he welded,so the pure aluminum will remain fused..and yes,this is the cheapest way to do the engine cover repair..
It makes much more sense to use the propane gas you have to melt aluminum. Can make sand mold using old part. Aluminum casting is definitely easier and longer lasting.
Hola Noel, este soplete va con dos botellas uno con oxigeno y el otro acetelino/ otro tipo de gas.Mezclando el gas con el oxigeno hace una llama de altissimo temperatura.