That head moved all over the place prior to tightening. The good news is how well that will run once you get done with it. I never cease to be amazed st the number of mechanics that are completely operating above their level of competency.
I worked on gas engines for 45 years. I have owned diesel's and had a good Detroit mech. to take care of them. He scared me by setting the governor at 2400 because of a bad range in the manual trans (1000 rpm shift). Never had a problem with it. I like your work. I took the same care on my Honda's as you do your Detroit's. As for blocking I had a standing rule in my shop that a vehicle was to be safety stands under it or they were given their final paycheck. Never had anyone injured in the 20 years I had my shop.
@@rm742 I've seen Detroits in heavy truck applications that turned 2700, 2800 rip 'em's and lived to tell the tale. Not good to let them freespool that high, though. Under a load for short periods, they can handle it. 2400 rpm all day long, if they have good oil and good cooling.
I had my 8v71 set at 2450 ran it for 8 years like that. It ran 82 mph and at 2450 it did better on hill climbing. I needed that amount of rpm with the 4 speed manual transmission
Go look where the gasket wasn't installed right. If you look closely, you'll see that outlet has been rotated and a new hole drilled and tapped. This may explain the large piece of cast iron you found in the oil pan. Thanks for all the great videos!
The valve is only flat on one side. A little silicone should fix it. You and Scott are the best . You just keep curing some really sick buses and making them happy again. It's always a pleasure seeing these old gems rolling down the highway.
Unbelievable, I know what it's like to deal with mechanics who don't know anything more than to guess and who in the end do very bad jobs and leave the bus worse. glad he was able to find you guys. Greetings from 🇨🇷
I've always been really impressed with those 8V71 engines - a few years ago I was helping one of my friends rebuild several of them When we tore them down, they were all in horrible internal condition and had obviously been abused and neglected. But all three of them still ran - even the one that had a hole in one of the pistons!
Scott I've seen some additional help around the shop and thought it might be interesting to know their names and how they view working on buses and learning from the Master Grease Monkey.
“If tight is good, tighter is better!” This seems to be a universal truth among the ham-fisted. I did a lot of gun work at one time and this was a constant issue and caused many problems. Can’t believe how tough those Detroit engines are to run with that sort of abuse. Those buses generally, in fact! Nice to see there’s people keeping them alive and well.
Beautiful looking bus. Great work as always but i think one thing id do is give that engine a thorough hot wash steam clean at 4% TFR. So much nicer to work on when theyre clean...
Hello Mr. Grease Baboon, I wanted to tell you again. That you are the best mechanic on these buses that I ever seen. I like how you show everything that failed in the engine. Well take care & I hope you keep up making great videos.
It really is hard to find a good and honest mechanic for these detroits,,makes me wonder how good they are on the newer diesels...enjoy watching how you and Indy take care of your customers,,stay safe and block those monsters up,,,🇺🇸😍
The ubiquitous nature of incompetent and inferior workmanship these days makes it extremely difficult to keep the cynicism at bay. Why do people get involved in jobs they have zero interest in performing? BGM, this will be a very nice bus for your daughter when you finish correcting all of the shoddy work!
Bought a 2003 RV with a c 11 cummins. I have it in to work on the loose steering. Thanks to you guys I figure its tie rod ends replacement and the steering column gears adjustment minimum.
Play in the steering no matter if a golf cart or a big rig will always be bad tire rods, front axle joints, or steering shaft itself. Tie rods can wear our or get damaged on rough roads, and steering shaft can wear out with a lot of very hard turning in and out of campground lots. You would be amazed how badly people treat vehicles and how bad they can become and still be driveable.
How about having your machine shop friend take a piece of plastic just slightly thinner than a rod cap. In a U shape. That when you pull a rod cap. You can put the U shaped plastic over the crank pin and rod bolts that is just slighly narrower than the big end of the rod so it holds the rod bearing in. So you can push up on that while doing the final. Push of the rod and sleeve out to reduce any chance of a rod bolt striking a crank journal. Or use threaded rods of plastic. Those could be used to install the piston, rod and sleeve without dropping the upper rod bearing too
If you were in Ohio I'd send you to my grandfather's diesel shop in Youngstown. Or Miami Florida area to Terrill machine. Or RPM Diesel in Ft, Lauderdale, by the big Yacht shops on marina mile. Best Diesel shops that I know of.
wow i havent had my hands on a detroit diesel in a long time. worked at reman central for 20 years before it was shut down. ive done a lot failure analysis on 53's, 71's, and 92's. always hated the 71 cause of the tight liner fit for cooling and could be a real bear to remove on a failed engine.
Have you found an easy way to simply extract the engine out of the buses then pull them down ?some form of engine frame carrier that you could design,and access panels built in the bus rear end .
been on motorcyles too long and missed out on the NEW stuff... very first time I saw a diesel that had valves.. did not know they re invented the diesel engine😂😂😂
I totally lost it when you showed that gasket that was not lined up with the hole. "Whaat, no way!" Lol This thing has been so abused, and it still ran! I hope you got it cheap Who knows what else is wrong with the bus.
You can get make a little tin with a few drain holes on a stick to capture the drain plug if it slips trough your fingers, it saves having to fish it out of the oil.
Beautiful looking bus on the outside but I cant believe someone would halfassed that engine like that. But when it's done it will be a powerhouse I'm sure.
I skip and FF every time they leave for a test drive. It’s totally not needed for the video and they must do it for some systemic youtube reason, algorithm, or for something to do with ads and making money. I don’t think it applies here, but I thought I’d read there needing to be a minimum video time length for monetization. In any event, I just FF through it and the end music.
@Simr Khera I like the hear it but the test drive thru town is a waste of time when you’ve watched dozens of videos, hence the FF to the end or till they’re back in the shop. The channel doesn’t want to take the time to edit that down into a smaller chunk, so I do it myself.
Scott while you don't often openly say so when such circumstances arise the appalling condition that motor was in seems to suggest it wasn't properly examined after overheating much less properly repaired. A trained mechanic is a trained investigator and you are obviously exceptionally good at what you do. So it would not be difficult for you to conclude that either the former owner was a 'back yard tinker' who thought they had skills they clearly did not as evidenced by your comment of "I don't know why they didn't rebuild it when they had it apart" or, they were misled by someone who claimed to have skills they did not. Numerous indicators like excessive tension on the head bolts and drain plug for the engine oil sump along with all the 'rough as guts' make-do repairs clearly corroborate this. It is also implicit that at least one head was removed and when the extent of the damage was realized it was decided to 'get it running and sell it' so the relevant head was 'slapped on again' with minimum attention to normal procedures a professional would observe under any circumstances. The fact that not even the failed valve was replaced combined with all the other indicators suggest the same obviously unskilled/unprofessional source performed the bulk of recent work on the engine prior to you purchasing the bus and could not have been aware it would be you who did so. It is probably a reasonable presumption that the former owner already knew or learned enough about you by interaction during the process of purchasing the bus to appreciate you would eventually discover the truth and it would be publicized on your channel. So if the previous owner was aware of your skills they would not knowingly sell the bus to you or mislead you in the process for that reason alone but it might not be too difficult to establish a few facts in that regard either. I hope you bought the bus for a price that reflected the amount of work required to bring it up to a mechanical standard you would consider acceptable.
My guess on the busted out bottom of a bolt hole is someone had some trash or fluid in a head bolt hole. Checking the bottom of every head bolt hole and every bolt hole with a coat hanger wire or welding rod will find it (Maybe) I would find another block until you can find where that broken piece is from. Don't ask me how I know. (someone sabotaged one of my head bolt holes. I had to have the piece welded back in). (aluminum block)
If I was in your place I would remove the last two main bearing caps just to make sure there a no cracks on the bock on the bolt hole, it was very common on the used core, did that engine had the rear stabilizer on the two last mains?
Sometimes valves will break like that when the clearance is adjusted to tight. I wonder if that was the cause? The valve seats are so hard that they usually just need to be Re ground, if that, and a new valve lapped in by hand, that’s how I always did it at least. Not that you don’t already know all of this.
Unreal how many hacks out there callin themselves mechanics. After u guys are done with it gonna be an amazing bus. That piece of iron you found would bug the hell out of me.
At this video they are not under the bus it’s on All 8 wheels. I have seen Scott and his crew work many times they do take every safety measure possible to make a bus stable while working under it. I have known people that had a bus fall on them it’s dangerous but danger can be taken out of the process and Scott and his crew takes no chances on a job not being safe and blocked up properly. Sorry for the loss of your friend
You have to feel a bit sorry for the guy you bought the bus from Wasting money on a head rebuild that failed but he really needed a full engine rebuild instead Good for you guys 👍👍
As I've said before, it is dismaying to see so much shoddy workmanship coming out of other shops. This problem crops up frequently in light truck and automotive repair shops too. According to the FAA and the NTSB, it also occurs occasionally in aircraft repair and maintenance facilities. Really shocking.
What made that valve so brittle? I have never seen one shatter like that (not that I have seen that many). Bend and break yea. Wrong valve used? I hate mystery metal that you found in the oil. Make me wonder when it will bite you on the behind.
Many years ago my father was a mechanic who worked on coaches (without many of the tools available today). In the workshops he was employed in there was always a 'pit' so that the coach could be driven over and then work underneath could be carried out more easily - standing up rather than lying on your back. Why don't you have a pit ?
the "overhaul" that engine has just had was a waste of time and money! What stops the ends of the piston rings getting trapped in the ports? are they pegged like a two stroke to stop the rings from turning so that the ends are always positioned on the webs between the ports? Phil, UK
Hmm interesting, does not seem like the head fix was done very well, possibly even contributed to its ultimate failure with the fuel dilution. Crazy as the previous owner probably paid alot of money to have that head work done. Well its in good hands and those kids will have a good runner when you guys are done. Nice with all that help around!
Scott, I have found a 1994 MCI 40 foot conversion. It has a 6V92 in it, seems like a lot of bus for a 6 or am I wrong on that. Is this something that you could shoehorn a series 60 and matching transmission in? Would the rearend have to be changed as well? What would be the cost for something like that?
6x92=552; 8x71=568. That is only 16 cu in. difference. The 6v92 is a pretty good engine with wet liners so overheating possibility is less AND they put turbos on them for more power.
We have a term in East Texas for what the “mechanics” did to that engine. “Piss poor work.” Scott, I have every confidence that you and Tyler will make this right. But dang it, this is pathetic Edited to add I broke my 35-40 year old Craftsman 1/2” brakeover bar on Friday. Not confident about the lifetime warranty, so I’m thinking about the Harbor Freight $49 pro. Any thoughts on their tools?
I've broken Craftsman, Ultra Last (Auto Zone brand), Ace hardware, and a few other brands of 1/2" break over bars. I got a Harbor Freight 1/2" break over bar a few of years ago and haven't broken it yet, and it's from the Pittsburgh line of tools. I think you'll be quite happy with that one.
Those fire ring's aren't stuck they have been so hot that they collapsed I have seen them welded to the piston. Too bad since you have to buy the parts anyway you could turbo it and make it into a 400hp engine without a lot more investment
I love Detroit diesel, the old 2t, engines, I'd throw a couple turbos on her, with intercooler, a huge one, get at least 1-1.5bar boost, and deck the block slightly,. Try to raise the compression a bit,
