In this video, I install a generic tiny tach hour meter on the 2-stroke motorized bike. We find out how fast the engine is actually running and what the speed differences are with the 20" wheel s. the 26" wheel.
Great video. Sooo yeah I have the same tach lol. My next step on both my yd build and my 49mm iron sleeve build will be a balanced crank. The yd is yet to run but the present 49mm build hits 8k on two tachs. First tach I had was always all over the place and had a temp sensor. Probably just a dud. Cheers
I bought the same tach for $10 but wish I would have spent $25 & got the Runleader instead. It has a tach/hr meter/clock (military time) & most important, a cylinder head temperature probe/gauge that goes on the spark plug. With a high temp alarm, so you can set to say 425F & once it reaches 425F the alarm will flash letting you know it's time to pull over & cool off. It might have saved the Phatom85 engine. I finally checked with my heat gun after a ride & the area of cylinder around the exhaust port is always 25-50F hotter. If I recall your Phantom engine was roasted on the exhaust side?
I was wrong on temps, I took my temps right after shutting the engine off, so the exhaust port side was only 50F hotter than cyl head top. The ex port side can get more like 150F-250F? hotter with engine running than top cyl head temp. The numbers online are all over the place when asked, what's the safest max temp to run at. When I get a temp gauge. I was gonna see what the average head temp is after a long ride & just set the warning for a few degrees higher. I figure $25 is worth it to avoid a destroyed engine & very long walk home.
commented a bit too early, i just watched your update video and the installation video carefully, and it seems like you just forgot to connect the tachometer ground to the frame? it's used both for the negative terminal of the battery and ground for the signal wire.
Good catch! Its been many years and I don't remember if I ever did ground the negative side of the battery. In any case, I can verify from using that analog tach on an ATV, that it is designed for one pulse every other revolution. So, it would not have read accurately on a single cylinder 2-cycle engine anyway. The digital tiny tach is definitely the way to go.
Do guys really have trouble with bolts coming loose I keep hearing about locktight but I used nothing and been riding everyday since may with no issues at all
Yes, I have had issues with motor mount nuts and exhaust studs working their way loose. I don't like using loctite because it's difficult to remove and often pulls the studs out when you try to take the nut off. However, its worth not having to constantly check that they are tight or have a muffler fall off. If you're not having any issues without it, I'd say just stick with what's working for you.
@@pulsar2121 I noticed the 4 stroke build has chopper style-ish raked front forks & ape hangers. Would be cool/funny to make a Captain America chopper replica from the movie- EZ Rider... Make the old school chopper style seat with the tall backrest, a long fishtail exhaust pipe, use a 26in front wheel with skinny tire & 24in rear with a fatter tire, paint the gas tank with the matching stars & stripes. Then ride it to Sturgis next year, it'd be a total chick magnet.
@@pulsar2121 thanks Buddy! I had the same tach but it would only show up to 4750rpm. But I know it was wrong cause it was winding out n I was doing 34mph with my 48t sprocket on a 26x2.35 mtb tire in the rear. I want to buy another tach, I think I ruined mine by cutting the wire shorter lol
