So the reason your low oil light was on was because the engine was no longer running. Your problem is not with oil pressure. You need to change your purge valve. This is very common and does exactly what you mentioned. And it will do it sporadically because it's getting dirty and sticking. Try that. Good looking truck. Looks alot like mine.
This happened to me about 4 months ago i just turned the engine back on and never had that problem again But i might change that purge valve just in case
I just had this issue myself with the low oil pressure coming on. Went on a 1500 miles road trip and when we were leaving to come back home it happened. Had #27 fuse blow for the fuel pump. Open the fuse box under the hood and pop out that fuse, my guess is it’s fried. Went to Napa auto store and got a new 20 amp fuse put it in and all the issues went away. Have had no issues since. Hope this helps.
Mine just had a hose fitting for the transmission fluid up front near the trans cooler shear off and my truck just pumped transmission fluid everywhere and wouldn't drive correctly. Had to get it towed..🙄 something so stupid. 2014 5.0 w/ 114,000. Truck is all stock minus Borla Atak exhaust system. First issue so far since new. Has been a very good truck so far. I love it.
Get the longer terminal fuse for the fuel pump or relocate the fuse, simple Google search. Possibly melted some plastic and wasn't making contact. Happened to me but in the parking lot after remote starting to warm it up. If it happens again turn your key to the run position and listen if the fuel pump kicks on if it doesn't get a longer fuse.
I have a 2011 F-150 FX4 5.0 with 350,000 miles and worst thing that happened was the idle pulley ripped off the timing cover. Total cost to replace yourself is around $400
@@blomeoutdoors2134 most of it is highway miles but I worked out in west Texas surveying pipeline and this is the truck I drove on lease roads and row out there so under the hood is covered in white dirt from some of the powder dirt on row out there
Nice looking rig. I love mine and have only done minor modification from stock. It’s a 2012 5.0 XLT 4x4 super crew that I got from a dealer with 52k miles in January 2019. It was owned by one of their retired employees who spec’d it out with what he wanted (4x4 with Rear Diff lock, DVD player which I’ve never used, and chrome appearance package). When I bought it it was stock height and tires, so I asked them to level it and put some 33s on it. However their maintenance manager recommended a 35x12.50, so I went with that and it looked/s great. As of yesterday when I got a routine servicing down at the dealer I have 127k miles on it - I drive 49 miles one-way for work during the week so it’s added up over the last year and a half since getting this job. I haven’t had any mechanical issues whatsoever in my time driving it. I noticed how you said yours doesn’t want to stay in 6th gear with the tires you have on and that seemed odd to me. Granted I do kind of baby mine on the highway to get the best mpg possible, but mine will stay in 6th just fine as long as I do that. My avg mpg with the level and 35s is 16.7 mpg, so not too shabby considering the bigger tires and changed aerodynamics with the level. The best mpg I’ve gotten when taking a day trip was like 18.9 with this setup. I don’t know how that would have differed from stock stance and stuff since I didn’t put any time behind the wheel with stock setup. Haha. Long story short, I love mine and hope to drive it for a long, long time. No plans to sell or get rid of it - especially since it’s paid off haha.
Have the same issue it's more than likely the oil pressure sensor/sending unit. It's very common. Look up the exact issue on Google or RU-vid and be sure to use an electronic contact cleaner on the connector going into the pressure sensor. It's easier to replace on a 2wd with it being 4wd you need to replace it from the topside off the engine, take off the alternator and anything else to gain access to the sensor. It is below the alternator. May need to take off the coolant reservoir as well to gain access.
I have a 2013 5.0 and only once has it thrown a low oil code and shut off, and that was when I pulled up on an incline, but it was just that one time and has been good ever since. I bought mine with about 57k miles on it in May of 2018 and as of November 2021 I have over 122k miles and the only problems I had were around 90k I got some evap codes which just needed the evap hosing replaced above the fuel tank. I got it replaced at the dealership so it was a bit pricey at around $350, but I wasn't confident in anyone else diagnosing it correctly. It didn't cause any issues, just was an annoyance with the check engine light. Around 96k the heater core went out, which I replaced myself in about 8 hours for only $100 for parts and $150 to discharge and recharge the A/C instead of the $1000+ two day job quote to have a shop do it. And finally, most recently around 115k the water pump went out. And honestly $700 over the course of 3.5 years isn't bad at all especially compared to my last car, a 2012 Veloster which had a $100 problem or worse every few weeks.
Hi there, I recommend these following items be replaced immediately with the purchase of any used vehicle. Positive crankcase ventilation, new coolant, new oil change, new transmission fluid.
@@blomeoutdoors2134 I have a 2014 with the 5.0, and I'm surprised at how low the idle rpm is. In gear it's roughly 525 rpm. I have to wonder how much oil pressure the oil pump can put out at that rpm, even if everything is working well?
The 5th and 6th gear shifting is a recall for the transmission. How ever u and i both are over warranty miles for a free recall replacement... I called ford they told me $800 to fix. Its a piece or sumthing on or apart of the transmission
The truck shut off then the light comes on you don't have low oil pressure. Here is somethings to loot at fuel filter and pump engine to ground connection test the alternator look at the battery terminals make sure they are clean and tight and it can also be a sensor such as a crank or mass airflow.
The lead frame in the transmission can get 'contaminated' with metal particles that can cause it to shift hard or unusually, from what I have read. I changed the trans fluid and filter at about 78,000 miles to try to prevent this from happening on my 2014.
I saw a 2013 with 256k miles at work, drove it around for a few miles and drove like any other f150. P.O said he hasn't done much work to it throughout its life. You'll probably run into mostly wear and tear issues since ur at the 200k mark, but after you figure out all of the small things it should be smooth sailing.
I just got one of these with the v6 3.7 with 208k miles on it, pretty good engine for a v6. got it for a bargain. Anyone have any experience with the high mileage v6?
I've got a 2013. 5.0 when you come to a red light. The oil pressure would go down. I would rip it up and no problem. The air conditioner might have done that. But I find out when I change my oil it wouldn't do that. What's the Ford says it's just something like a short in it or something. So you might want to change the oil. It only happens at the light. But I put thousands of miles on it never had no problems with it. Then I got a 2016 6 cylinder turbo. I like it pretty well it's cheaper on gas.
I've never seen it in a 5.0 but I've seen it in a 5.4 the stalling at stop lights. A 5.0 should have two vct solenoids one for each bank. If they go bad or get clogged they will change the fuel trims or get stuck open or closed. Maybe give changing the vcts a shot.
The actuators for the heating and air go out quite often..cheap part..but have to disassemble dash to get to..the one behind stereo is for the blend door and one above and to the right of accelerator pedal for floor dash defrost aren’t too bad but if you have dual climate control there’s one down at floor that is a nightmare to change…it can be done if you cut some on the duct work definitely not the right way but dealer will quote for removing dash to fix a part that cost depending on where you get it 25 to 50 bucks. There’s also one on passenger side on right side of heat air box that is for outside and recirculate air.
i know your water pump was replaced prepandemic but did you replace it yourself, if not how much did it cost. Like everyone has said nice rig. I have 140,700 on my 2012 f150 but living in canada rust has taking over the bumper. Since 2019 only replaced the alternator.
I got the same truck but crew cab. Mine does leak from the oil pan, oil level just like yours on the gage. Never had that message. 108k miles. 4x4. I do have 35 inch tires and have the same transmission shift to a lower gear in hill terrain or in between 45 and 55mph if your gentle on the pedal.
I test drove a 2013 today and as I was about to pull out of the dealership to test drive it and it had shut off on me. I had to put it in park and turn the truck off and back on twice.
Lead frame on these are a pain I've had to replace myne they are a royal pain to locate due to it being a recalled part took 7 weeks to get myne from my local ford 02 sensors aren't great either. I'm at 254000 and still running good
I have a 2011 12th gen truck with the 5.0. I’d love to see more more you do on you’re 2012. I’m looking into a programmer for mine. What would you get for yours?
Mine has 280k and did that a a gas pump put higher octane gas in it haven't done it sense, my guess is a lil bit of bad Gas look up spark knock also bad Gas can do that as well
Sounds like you have an electronic issue. And has anyone ever told you when you get tires larger than 32" tall, you have to change the final drive ratio so the drive train can keep up?
It just killed its self said low oil pressure started up and was fine and i had timing chain problems about 7k after now this is a ecoboost not a 5.0 but same truck and when it snapped it stalled every time i let it idle and every time it stalled it said low oil pressure so you have oil pressure i wouldnt stress about it i have ran out of oil in the same truck my turbo seals went out and it said low oil pressure and i had shut it off myself
Probably low oil. My brother has a 2018 5.0 and they tend to burn oil slowly over time and he was doing 75 on the highway and the truck lost all oil pressure and the throttle was unresponsive. Luckily he rolled to a gas station and just put some oil in it and it worked. Got home and he was 5 quarts low! On a engine that holds 9 quarters!!! His truck has 50,000 miles. And he was on 10,000 miles without an oil change. So I'm not sure if that's your issue or not😂
orlando mendoza it’s the XLT. From what I understand it was just a sensor that went bad. It only happened that once and hasn’t ever happened again since.
@@blomeoutdoors2134 do you know what sensor it was a friend of mine has experienced the same thing twice and we should probably check that sensor or change it out. Thank you for the response and your truck is one of the best looking I've seen 👍
orlando mendoza Thanks. I had a check engine light come on about a month ago. I read the code and it was the purge valve that went out. I’m not sure if that was related to this same thing or not. Maybe start there? I couldn’t for sure tell you though.
Could be your alternator or battery couldn’t support the electrical system at idle. You have extra lights, loud music, and ac compressor working at max. Check your alternator voltage output and test your battery.
I agree and I would, only thing is they’ve been on there since truck was at the original dealership in 2012 and I’m sure there will be sun fade marks on the paint where you can tell where they used to be and don’t want that. But do agree it would look much better like that!
Dude just today the same thing happened to me and I remember I saw your video and I turned off the truck and then I turned it on again and it was like nothin happened
I own a 2013 F150 Platinum...and I do what I did it to my 1970 Z28 Camaro, my 1974 Nova...MAINTANCE!!!..People do fcking maintinance to yours cars no matter if chevy,ford or dodge...for God sake!!!!
