My Hyundai IONIQ 5 Died In My Driveway & Others Seem To Be As Well! What's Going On Here? 

Thanks for sharing your situation, Dad! A lot of people are thinking it’s the OBD dongle, however your car was sitting just for a few hours overnight. Even if that Dongle was running full power there’s no way it could drain the 12V. Also, it’s seemingly happening to other cars without the dongle. My prediction is that it’s unrelated. Either way, let’s hope for a software update or a fix for this soon!

Next time it happens, you should check the battery voltage with a multimeter before hooking the booster battery to it. That would tell you if the battery has discharged or if this is an issue with the car’s software.

Just a little thought that might mean nothing: my 2009 Prius had a proximity key that was never supposed to be left in or near the car, for the key would leave the car in a readiness mode that potentially could drain the battery by keeping a computer awake. This was according to my Toyota owner’s manual.

Unplug the Circuit City you have going on in your car and see if it drains again. You can’t determine anything with that many devices left plugged in. It could be the app but you need to eliminate all of the other variables to determine that.

I took my Ioniq 5 2022 to the Hyundai today and learned that there was a system recall software update that they agreed to install. I am writing this from waiting room of the dealership while I wait for the update to finish! I suggest all owners check with their dealers to update!

Just last week bought a little jump box for my ICE car, and it’s been a total lifesaver. I agree with you Dave. It’s great to have. Keep us posted on what you find out.

Dave, thank you for sharing your experience. I have the Ioniq PHEV, and read about this issue on the forums too. Fortunately, I have not encountered this issue, but I purchased a small jump start battery like yours just in case. Hyundai definitely needs to figure out what’s going on here. At the very least, let customers know it’s a possible problem, and give them a jump starter so they’re not stranded somewhere.

Easy way to figure out what circuit is drawing power. Just get an infrared camera or laser thermometer. After the car has been off for a while check the temperature of the fuses. Whichever one is still warm is the circuit drawing power. Then check the box and see what that circuit powers and fix that issue.

Probably a similar issue to the Kona - in some (unknown) circumstances, the car doesn't fully go to sleep when switched off. Leaving the boot (trunk)not quite latched is one cause

Here in Germany some I5-owners had the same problem, a drained 12v battery. The issue is the chargeport. Like you mentioned with the door, it tryes to open and close all the time and drains the battery. But thats just what i watched on youtube, maby your case is different.

It's amazing to me that an EV, with a huge battery pack, will ever let the tiny 12V battery run down.

My guess on this issue is a software issue. Leaving some part of the computer more active than intended causing the drain. Like you said an additional draw then intended. The jump pack worked immediately as once the computer booted up, it was able to turn on the DC-DC converter for the 12v system. Everyone should keep one of these 12v jumper packs no matter what car they own. I have purchased and maintained one in every vehicle I've owned. Have to remember to check on them every month or so too, as some drain faster than others.

This actually happened at the dealership when I went to test drive an Ioniq 5. Got there and despite being plugged into the charger, the car was a complete doorstop.

I will commend Hyundai for being proactive. I reached out to them on Twitter and in a survey they sent about my experience with the car, mentioning safety concerns about their NVH material underneath the vehicle as well as the significant snow and ice accumulation inside the engine bay. About a week later, today, I received a phone call from my local Hyundai dealership who said two engineers from Hyundai Korea were flying in this week and asked permission for them to look at it to see if the issues could be addressed and areas in question improved upon.

Another thanks from a new Ioniq 5 owner. Glad I got to see this issue as well as the temporary resolve. While I have had the limited version for a few weeks I have not had this problem but will certainly purchase a power bank for potential future emergency use. I do notice the yellow light on the dashboard comes on almost every night, at least while the temps in my garage are below 50 F and I understand it is indicating that the 12V battery is charging. Look forward to more comments from you about your experiances.

I would leave the ODB dongle unplugged when you turn off the car. Those are notorious for draining the 12 volt battery in EVs and ICE cars. Even though it looks like it’s off the car senses it’s plugged in and that keeps the port up and running.

The newer Kona’s (2020 and later here in Norway) have been having these issues as well. I’ve heard that the 12V batteries that come from the factory are notoriously bad. From what I’ve read most people have had the issue solved after switching the 12V battery. However it could be that the energy consumption is badly administered considering the connected features when the vehicle is off.

(Former) automotive diagnostic technician here. (Just recently went back to school to study electrical engineering). This seems like a software issue. Hyundai/Kia (as well as many other EV manufacturers) will normally use the HV battery as backup for the 12V battery. If the 12V battery SOC drops too much, it will kick on the HV system to recharge the 12V battery. Of course, if the vehicle is experiencing a software glitch, all bets are off. The older Hyundai/Kia models turn on a light somewhere on the car when it is turning on the HV system to replenish the 12V battery. On my old Kona, it was a yellow light in the middle of the front badge. Also, regarding the Ioniq that drained the 12V battery while charging, that definitely should not happen because the vehicle will keep the 12V charging system active while charging due to the vehicle electronics staying on to monitor the HV battery while charging. Fairly certain this is a software issue of something staying on when it shouldn’t, and also not charging the 12V battery off the HV battery when it should. There is an outside chance that it could be related to the OBD dongle if it is somehow keeping the CAN bus active and causing module(s) to stay online, but the dongle itself doesn’t draw enough electricity to kill a battery that size overnight. Maybe over the course of a week, but not overnight. I’ve never had an OBD dongle like that cause an issue, and I have an OBDLink dongle that I’ve left plugged into my Bolt for months without a drain issue. The only thing that sometimes happens is it will interrupt the vehicles ability to transmit diagnostic info back to OnStar, so I’ll get an angry email from OnStar saying that they can’t spy on my car. I’d suggest contacting your local service department directly and bring this up to them. There may be a tech service bulletin from Hyundai regarding this issue, or their engineering team may be looking for cars that have had this issue so they can retrieve data from them to determine the problem. If there is a software update for the issue (or any other common fault that they’ve found), the dealer service departments can learn about the repair from a technical service bulletin issued by the manufacturer.

By the way, those Type-S portable batteries are the best (and other brands I suppose). They're so convenient and hold their charge for a long time. I got one at Costco and have helped my self and others who needed a charge. They great for people who have a dead battery but aren't in a position to get a car next to them to jump the old fashioned way. Highly recommend.

We just bought an Ioniq5 and immediately replaced the 12 volt battery with a lithium battery. And installed a battery monitor. So far all is good.

two 12” screens, one ipad, one cell phone, and a radar detector. no officer i wasn’t distracted 😳

Thanks for the great video! I had no idea this was an issue. When I come out of my house in the morning, I’m usually already running 5-10 minutes late for work. I have no time to plan on for a dead battery every few weeks. Between the suboptimal kWh/mile consumption, the $5-7k dealer surcharge and the 12v battery issue, I’m rethinking the purchase of an Ioniq 5.

I like these because, like older sedans, they have a split bench seat in the front. It's not a real seat, since it's too small, but the idea is to give leg room, comfort, and easy access to both front doors on either side. I like how this looks. Can't wait to see what other people do with it. It's old, but it's new again.

Thank you for all of your videos and sharing your experience ❤️

Would love to know the voltage of the battery when the car thinks it’s dead. Reason being is the way the car responded to the jump pack. It was instant. Also watching the voltage adjust after the jump pack is removed would show how the car is responding to the battery state.

I am guessing that your fob activates the car. On a Subaru that we used to own we had the fob in line of sight to the car and that drained the battery. When we stored the fob in another location, the problem was solved. Could this be the cause?

I support your message to Hyundai and I love how you phased it all. Keep us up to do on this.

I have had my Ioniq 5 SE AWD since December. I too bought the jumper battery based on others' reviews. I have had the ODB2 monitor in the whole time also based on recommendations. So far, I have had no issues. I am coming up on 5K miles. Keeping my fingers crossed.

An interesting video. I don't own an EV and I probably won't own one in the near future, but I find them interesting. If it isn't too much of an inconvenience, I suggest that you unplug all of your accessory items and use your vehicle that way for a few weeks to see if the problem reoccurs. If all is well, just plug in one item, the one that you need the most, and use your vehicle that way for a week or two. Then you can continue adding additional items in a similar fashion until the problem reoccurs. Hope this helps.

XC40 Recharge forums have some threads about similar issues on that model (unexplained 12v drainage), and some folks saying they saw the same on Mach-E forums - but not at a widespread level on either car it seems. Wonder if there could be some similar root causes though.

I’ve had the identical problem with my 2019 Hyundai Kona EV. Twice I found it completely dead in my driveway with over 50% charge on the main battery. Road service knew exactly how to get the car operational. The dealer’s answer was to replace the 12v auxiliary battery.

Had it only sat overnight, or was it sitting longer than that? I'm wondering if it's something related to the entry system. When you switch the car "off", it's really in standby mode. It's looking for the signal from the key fob to tell it to present the door handles. Maybe that receiver is drawing too much power.

Great vlog about the car. Regardless what the draw is, in my opinion. The technology at this point should be able to sense while parked, that there is a parasitic draw and throw a code and or at 50% batt, shut off the culprit. That seems like a simple software upgrade by hyundai. The 90s are over Hyundai, a decade which you may wish to forget but please, don't leave people stranded.

If it was cold soaked, or there was a vampire drain on the low voltage without the dcdc being active, the 12v battery got drained or voltage drop.

Great review. Which model did you buy? And how much did it cost out the door?

That’s an intriguing issue. Especially it’s such a new car. I’m sure you and Hyundai will figure it out. When I plugged in my obd ii in my Benz it drained the battery dead. I always thought the obd is an always on thing. Another good way to trouble shoot is to get a battery tender and fully charge the battery and see how long it takes to drain again and take out one variable at a time that is under your control. I’m curious on your results as well keep us posted.

I would be interested in seeing what the voltage was on the 12V battery. I wonder if there is a safety switch that trips when the voltage drops too much, and when you hook up the pack it drives the voltage up where it resets the switch.

The VW ID3 when 1st released in Europe had the same dead 12v battery in the morning issue and required a software patch to fix. That could be another avenue of research. Good luck.

The dead car symptom seems similar to my 2011 Nissan Leaf that will go dead if its 12volt accessory battery lacks a charge. Once I trickle charged the accessory battery back up the car runs normally. I'm on my second accessory battery since my Leaf is over 10 years old.

Sounds like a wider Hyundai problem if others are experiencing similar things; but could be the OBD II. It drains the battery on my regular (non-EV) car big time when I’m not using it for a few days, followed by the dashcam. Good luck and hope Hyundai provides an update soon!! PS: I do know someone who’s 12v died while the Ioniq was plugged in.

I have A Ioniq Classic hybrid that "doesn't" have a 12v battery. If the 12v system goes dead all I have to do is hit a button inside the car and the system recharges it's self with the onboard battery. I don't understand why Hyundai has the tech and chooses not to use it on a pure BEV.

I had this issue with two Subarus. The issue I found was because of the key FOB. My keys were hung about 10-15 feet from the cars and caused the BT or whatever proximity comms it uses to continuously cause the car to communicate with each other. Haven't had issues since moving keys farther away.

Thanks for this video. After watching it I ordered a charger, even though I haven't had a problem (yet). I noticed the cable at 4:42 in the video. I'm going to run a cable on a similar path to my phone holder. Do you mind sharing what clips you used to hold the cable? The ones I tried wouldn't stick firmly.

I had a similar issue with a brand new gas car, ended up being an issue with the trunk liftgate, the motor kept consuming power after the car was turned off, was recalled and replaced on this year's entire lineup

You kind of hit on what the problem is not. It doesn't appear to be a dead 12v due to the fact everything woke up and continued to work after the connected the mini pack. Something is disconnecting the 12v from the system causing it to go to sleep.

This seems to be a common issue with every new EV model. I have a Polestar and 12v battery issues were common in our groups for a while. They tend to get patch via software updates. I think it’s just a bug in the software where either 1) it fails to properly check the 12v battery level or 2) fails to re-charge the 12v from the main pack.

I would start checking the voltage across the battery for a few days in a row to see if there is a voltage drop over the course of a few days when the car is shut down (you should have approx 12V). You can also check the fuses to see if there is any amperage draw across the fuse block for the 12V controlled accessories. I dont have an EV so i am not sure what is on the 12V rail

I got the same issue with my Kia. It is the Bluetooth OBD dongle that stays on when you run Car Scanner, even though your car is off. It must be designed so that troubleshooting can continue over the OBD port after turning off the car. I now monitor my 12v battery with a simple battery monitor

Thanks for sharing your experience, Mr. C. I immediately ran to Costco and found the same Type S jump battery you have for $59-even if I never use it, the peace of mind is well worth it. (I really like my Ioniq 5 SEL RWD.)

Dave, The OBDII dongle maybe the culprit. Also, I suggest you test the voltage on the battery BEFORE you plug it to the jumper box. Just to make sure that, indeed, the battery is out of juice; because it maybe a contact issue that gets resolved after you give it a jolt with the jumper. P.S. have been trying to find I5 exactly like yours with no luck here in Florida.

I’ve been using the Veepeak for about 4 years, and when I installed it on my car the literature told me not to leave it plugged in and yes it would drain the battery the blue light is to show the Bluetooth connectivity. I hope that helps.

I've had the same problem with my 2019 Ioniq. I carry a jumpstart pack like yours. I've always suspected that somethings wrong with the Battery Saver not kicking in.

There's someone out of the UK that had the same issue and started using a battery monitor - he switched over to Utility mode for a time and hasn't had the issue come up again. Just out of curiosity which brand and model was your battery jump pack? so many of them are overkill for this use case. I tend to agree with the other commenters that it probably has to do with something with either the charge door or even perhaps the 4G radio and BlueLink - I've had my Hyundai Santa Cruz for almost a year now and when parked in the garage it'll send a push notification (sometimes more than a couple) that my doors are unlocked. The software is probably very different from the IONIQ 5 but it could be some "bad code" where it's not allowing the DC to DC charging to kick in to bring the 12v battery back up to where it needs and even normal use / driving is wearing down that battery. What is throwing most people for a loop (IMO) is that they are applying what they know about cars with a "normal" charging system and not taking in to consideration that there's no alternator and most of what charging activity is governed by software that may not be 100% sorted yet.

Hi Dave, enjoying your reviews. I think the problem is a combination of your short trips, usage of various devices and lights etc. that draw on the 12V battery and the 12V battery charger being undersized. You may be able to fix this by going into the Utility Mode (see the manual for how to do this) and telling the car to use the main battery rather than the 12V battery for many devices. I presume this comes at a cost of the main battery having to be managed even when the car is off and something draws on it, and hence draining a little even when the car is off. Looking forward to your update.

Polestar 2 had recall for 12 volt failures in 2020. Charge going out but charge wasn’t coming back to 12 volt battery. 2200 cars were recalled.

You can't leave the OBD2 stuff plugged in. I had that problem with my Chevy truck and it ended up being the hptuners plug

Is there a link to that jump start unit you have ?

The next time this happens before you do anything put a digital volt meter on the 12 volt battery to check state of charge, from your description the battery seems to be ok after you energize the circuit so to me the problem may be related to one of the controllers that supply the 12 volts from the battery to the operating 12 volt systems. If it has now been working fine for days and days it’s probably not a 12 volt battery issue.

You should have checked the voltage of the battery first before putting the jumper on it. Was it really dead? or did the battery pack just wake the system.

TX for the info. I think I read the manual yesterday and there is a way to charge the 12v from the main battery. 2nd day of ownership!

The next time it happens, measure the voltage across the terminals to see how low it’s going below 12VDC.

Must be frustrating for a new car to have such an issue. Especially when dealers don’t know the root cause. Hyundai need to be on this right away. Unfortunately, until there is a significant number of these reported, probably nothing will be done. You seem to be taking it with a better attitude than I might. Good luck with finding the root cause. I like your videos, so keep filming.

Maybe it's a BMS (battery management system) issue. Do you often notice the light on the top of the dash? When the light is on the 12v is being charged by the main battery. 2020 Kona EV owner

The 12V battery drain issue is why I canceled my Porsche Taycan order and got a Tesla Model S, zero regrets.

Will try to make this short. I have own a Ford Fusion Hybrid for 10 years. They also had this issues in many of their hybrids. In a odd circumstances I ran into a tech for Ford. The battery isn’t dead just falls below what is needed for computer. It’s about 3/10 of a volt if I remember correct. That is why it needs very little “bum” to work. A new OME battery was the fix, and Ford payed for it. Good luck!

I have had my Ioniq 5 2022 for the last 2 months never had this issue but it makes me nervous knowing such a problem may happen. It doesn't make sense to have an electric car and have a full battery but come to a dead 12V battery! I wonder why those engineers didn't think of it I am sure it is a very easy fix for them but to know it may happen to any of us is not right! Hyundai if you see these comments and video please fix it! I love my car but knowing such flaws in your system is makes all us nervous 😓

Great job with that jumper box. Interesting.

I would say the obd is part of the problem because with my eGolf I left my obd in one time and it ended up killing the 12v battery after a few days. It has a blue light too but it was not on. So I would not leave it in too long if you’re not using the car

I'm glad that I watched this, because I just realized that I can't keep my jump box in the back with the electric rear hatch.

Was the car sitting several days? Modern cars and EVs are always on, talking to themselves or services like OnStar, listening for your app, etc. I've had to put a battery tender on our cars about every two weeks otherwise the 12v can get pretty low.

I've had too many of those lipo jump packs puff up on me and fail. Amazing I haven't had a car catch fire yet from those. Just my experience. thanks for the video

It's happening on the Kia EV6 sometimes too. My 12v got dangerously low but it started charging back up. We took it to the dealer and they did some diagnostics and suggested plugging it into a level 2 charger instead of l1, the car was intended to be used with a l2 per the manual and their direction. By then, the issue had already gone away and hasn't come back (Knock on wood). In my reading, it seems that most EVs have had this issue at one time or another. Teslas, Mach-e, ID4...

Had the exact same happening once last week here in Norway. I've had it for a month now and I got an Ioniq 5 Premium AWD. Nothing in common with you here, besides having a lightning cable connected (without an iPhone). I have this bulky jump starter, but I will be buying a similar smaller jump starter as you to keep in the frunk. I had the same issue with my last car, the VW ID.3 1st Max, but that was a software issue. Once that update came through, no problem (the big battery then charged the 12V battery on a regular basis, even when the car was not running). But I have no idea if this is the same. As you said; this is so basic, it shouldn't be a problem on a new car! Hyundai HAVE to fix this.

Did anything like this happen with any of your VW ID4s?

I notiched phone ot tabled pretty much wired to the left of the steering wheel. Could be this one the reason for the 12V Battery drained?

In cold weather condensation can make just enough of a barrier so your battery 2 cable connection is insufficient. Also with those battery packs be careful with the clamps if they both touch a grounded surface at the same time you're going to have some problems. On mine I think it advises you to connect the red side or positive side first then the negative. Those things are great!

First thing I did when I bought my IONIQ 5 Limited was update the firmware and maps... I am at 1550 Miles on the Odometer. I ordered a Bluetooth battery monitor to give me a warning if voltage got too low. Watching this issue very closely. Thanks for your video. It helps.

Dave / Kyle / Hyundai - First Dave -, we always owe you early adopters a thank you for being the first ones to go with a new product. This is why. The community truly thanks you. I know my wife and I do. I want one of these SO bad. But as more time goes by in this crazy auto world the Dealerships are gouging more and more. I'm thinking about going up to Canada because it's illegal for dealerships to charge over MSRP, go figure I'll never pay a penny over MSRP, and I will not spend $3k on options I don't want. Kyle - I completely agree with you, it's not the OBD dongle. I have one in my 2002 Lexus and the battery is from 2014. I have one in my 2016 Leaf, and it is fine as well. It's not the issue. I do trickle charge it monthly for general maintenance, but that's it. Hyundai - Please get this figured out, work with Kyle and Dave on it. I know this battery issue is slowing people down and willing to wait until it's figured out. I cover 3 states as a sales rep, and like most people, when I get in my car, especially a new car it can't have phantom draining on a 12v battery. HOW is the world is there not a sensor in all of this tech to cause a warning, or a battery light to indicate there is an issue. The software should have some parameters that alarms with this type of fluctuation, even in the 12V system. Please update this in the software along with wireless Android Auto and Wireless Apple Car Play. Those 2 omitted features is really poor planning for up to a $60k car. It's unacceptable. I hope this get's figured out for you Dave and all of the other early adopters. We look forward to the updated videos. as usual.

Could you please share with us the brand/model of the small charger that you used?

Grounding issue or hook up a volt meter whats the draw on the 12v with everything switched off? Should be able to eliminate depending on how much is being drawn from the battery. Is there an auto heater or pre warmer installed?

It probably has to do with the “extra” stuff you have plugged in that are drawing 12v power.

Thanks for this video. I have owned a Kia e-Niro (Niro EV in the USA) here in France since March 2019. I notice it has the same 12v battery as your Ioniq 5 (Rocket)...I get the impression HMG don’t use the highest quality lead/acid batteries but not sure on that. Many e-Niro owners here in France and in the UK have had problems with their 12v batteries but these seem all to have one thing in common, the use of an OBD device which if the car isn’t used for a while will drag the 12v down. I had no such problems until a few weeks back when my 12v died and I could not start the car. Turns out I had not closed the tailgate properly so the interior light was on for about 15 hours. My 12v was down to 5.7 volts!...Charged the car up again and ignoring Einstein’s advice I did the same thing a few days later expecting a different result it would seem!...My stupidity occurred when cleaning out the car interior, leaving the doors open for an hour when I got distracted with something else...and once again the 12v was drained. Convinced that I needed a new ‘higher quality’ battery I checked first with a friend of mine here who has a 2017 Ioniq, one of the 28 kWh early models. His 12v is the same make as mine and is the original battery. He put me onto the backup 12V as you have here so got myself one of those and am sticking with the 12v in the car for now. In theory a 12v lead/acid should last longer in an EV as there is no sudden loads put on it from cranking a starter...but the advice is to keep a beady eye on your 12v. The old Ioniq and the Kia e-Niro have very similar menu settings. You need to make sure that ‘aux battery saver’ is ticked..this means that when the car is powered down and locked the traction battery will charge the 12v if it detects the 12v has gone low.

My Polestar 2 did this once. I disconnected the 12V battery for about 30s and it came back alive. Lucky it was unlocked so I could get the hood open

Take a volt meter and ground the ground prong and check each pin on the OBD port for voltage when the car is off. Pretty easy to do and will let you know if that’s the culprit as others have suggested.

the jump box looks like the same model that I got at Costco - I am curious if your iPad or other devices are drawing power from the battery while you are not driving.

The Ioniq 5 only charges the 12v battery when the car in plugged in to the AC charger (It does not charge at a DC fast charger), or you are driving or you are in the Utility mode. Your car computer that runs the Bluelink is operated by the 12v battery and the cell modem is also running off the 12V, and they operate all the time monitoring the car and sending out data. That's why you get those your door is unlocked emails or texts. 10 miles a day is not enough to re charge the 12V. You need to drive more or plug in at home.

I hope you still read new messages here. I live in Scandinavia and I own the first named Hyundai Ioniq EV 28 kW model from 2019. I know that quite a few owners of this model have had issues with dead 12 volt batteries, and a number of Kona owners has experienced the same. Just to your information, the Ioniq EV and the Kona (I believe) has a menu in the dash, in which you can activate "12 volt management system". It is a simple feature, that keeps track of the voltage of the 12 volt battery in the car. If the voltage gets too low, the system will charge the 12 volt battery up from the main drive-battery. I don't know why the owners of the cars have access to such a feature. It should be activated from factory by default. However in some vehicles the feature is not activated from the factory and the result is a dead 12 volt battery in the morning. I suggest that you try to look up the feature in the manual of the car or ask your local Hyundai dealer to find out, weather this feature it hidden somewhere - perhaps only the mechanics personel at the dealer have access to the data. I don't know. I hope you find this information useful.

Very strange indeed. I have a 2021 sonata hybrid limited that has a seperate 12v section built into the larger battery pack. It is however, maintained also by the solar panel roof that charges both batteries. Wonder if having a solar trickle charger could be a bandaid fix while hyundai works on fix?

First of all, all new cars with heavy computer use have voltage or power safety systems for consumption. It works like triage of the 12 volt systems in vehicles, ICE or EV. Anytime the battery voltage drops below a programmed point the vehicle will start shutting down systems to save itself and the programming and memory in the vehicle. I was stranded in my brand new work vehicle out on a job. We run an Ipad all day long for work orders and data entry. We also have strobe lights for safety when we are in highly populated areas to warn people of our vehicles being parked in an area and that we are entering and exiting the vehicle. My Ipad can draw up to almost 2 amps while charging by itself. I also have a GPS unit running all of the time in my vehicle. That day I was outside of my truck working for 5 hours and the ipad was running. It was just enough power draw that my vehicle would not allow the start system to operate but other things still worked like my door unlock from my key fob. All it took was for the vehicle to see 12.7v and everything let the truck try and start. I am a service tech so the first thing I did was got out my multimeter and checked the voltage of my battery . It was 12.4 v DC before I took a power cord out of my truck and made a makeshift jumper cable out of it. I did not need the power draw to start my vehicle but only the voltage level for the vehicle to see to allow it to unlock or power up the start system. I am going to guess that you have a smart charger that can schedule when your vehicle can charge and you can set the time on it. That system and all related apps run off of the 12 volt battery. Even when your car is off it is still on talking to your charger, your dongle, your ipad and any other bluetooth or wifi device in your vehicle. Our modern tech and the internet of things ( IOT ) , means that this stuff is always on and always talking between themselves. You need to eliminate or unplug everything when your vehicle is not being used or install a trickle charger on your 12 volt battery or get a solar charge pad to throw in the dash and plug into a power outlet to send power back into the card while it is parked. www.amazon.com/TP-solar-Maintainer-Cigarette-Alligator-Motorcycle/dp/B07RXKN9MF/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B07RXKN9MF&psc=1

I've had this happen once on my 2021 Kona. There is a lot of talk about what is plugged in to the ports etc. However, I had a long chat with the rescue company that jumped the car and they have been running tests on a selection of EV's as the issue is wide spread and not just one manufacture. The issue appears to be software related. In a similar way to a computer when you turn the car off the software sometimes hangs and doesn't fully quit. This firstly causes the battery to drain down and secondly as the software has technically hung it does not then run the periodic battery top-ups while the software is caught in a loop. It is only once the battery is flat that the issue is resolved - in a similar way to pulling the battery/hard reset on a laptop. Since my issue, I make sure that before exiting the vehicle I shut down anything running, media, HVAC etc. and then make sure I hear the shutdown jingle before locking up. Since then I have had no such issue.

See if you can get something to monitor the charge of your 12 v. At least you could set an alarm if the 12v battery falls below a certain level.

Does Ioniq 5 have batter saver mode? On my Kona Electric, I used to be able to turn this function on or off. However, after a software update at the dealership, this function is ON all the time.

I’ve had my Ioniq 5 for a week now. I tried looking through your comments and most people were blaming the OBD dongle. But I just stepped into my car and plugged my lightning port and it charged my phone without having to turn the car on. So I’m thinking you charged your iPad overnight and killed your battery. From what I understand turning off the car does not kill power to the 12v adaptor or usb from the front middle console.

What do you have the Ipad setup for?

I heard there is a recall related to the rear charge port motor that is drawing current. Also your 12v battery health may have impacted now that it has been allowed to go flat. I’d recommend trying the noco battery chargers that have a repair mode to bring it back to health.

8:42 Could you please provide a link to the pro clip cell phone holder? I checked your Amazon list link in the video description but it's not there.

There must of been a bad batch of 12v batteries. I had the same issue with my 2018 Volt. I upgraded to a lithium 12v an no issues since. The Ioniq 5 should have a 12v battery saver mode similar to my 2017 Ioniq. You have to activate it.

Ask Mr EV Andrew Till to send over his wife to talk to your dealer. She’ll get everything set straight LOL

How does the 12V being charged? With a solar panel? I am assuming the battery only power the electronics which does not require much power.

If I had guess...and I do, lol.... I would say it's a software update or the battery sensor on 12v neg battery lead. While working on a service desk for a few years in Kia shop...I've seen a far number of these go bad.