I’m not a certified mechanic, just your average car enthusiast diyer, in my personal experience I recommend bleeding your brakes, and swapping the fluid too. I live in an urban area, and I literally smoked out my brakes in stop n go traffic. I knew the car was a pain to stop but after coming home one day I knew this couldn’t wait any longer. Yea almost didn’t make it back. If you have the spare change, also do the rotors too. The new pads are gonna tear up what’s left of the rotor if they have excessive wear from heat. So yeah just my 2 cents.
Sounds like you just waited too long. Usually you can use your rotors for two pad replacements before having to replace them (assuming you listen to the squeal and don’t wait till they grind). Also don’t touch the brake fluid unless you have to as it’s a very temperamental system that you don’t want to get accidental air bubbles in
Man I’m so glad i found this video !! All the other ones replace the whole caliper like nah I don’t need to do all of that I just needed the brake pads!! Thank you for the video man really appreciate it❤
Just did this myself and didn’t realize they sell a caliper piston holder that cost me like $4 at Walmart and a C-clamp was about the same price. It was a tool I never knew I needed until I saw it, very worth
Nice job I'm helping a friend with his 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 with 120k on it... He got rebuilt calipers that came with the crappy white grease and less than 6 months everything was freezing up on them would not slide.I had to clean and use purple grease. Next will be his rear suspension. Shocks,springs,camber/Toe bolts. Its sagging bad.
I didn't have a c-clamp so I used a large pipe wrench & I used pliers to tighten the nut on it. It worked perfectly well. After I was finished, I realized I had put the pads on the back sides with the clamp on top. They clipped right into place & seem to be working fine, so I'm hoping it doesn't matter. Does anyone know if the clamp being on top of the back side will cause a problem?
I've seen several videos that demonstrate the installation of the pads with both pads oriented with the clips on the top, you show the outer pad with clip on top, the inner pad with the clip on the bottom, is this crucial?
I did both sides with the clip on top, so I hope it doesn't matter. But it clipped in the back side just fine, as though it's meant to be that way. I didn't realize I'd done the back upside down until after I was finished & I showed this video to someone else. So here's hoping they don't lock up or something.
1:56 mine are nkt sliding in like that, its not fitting into place, idk what it is i spent too much time on these and 1st time i did this i didnt have this problem, but the springs/tabs are keeping the brake from fitting all the way, itll fit half way.
First, make sure you they sold you the correct pads. Then, make sure the pistons in the calipers are all the way in. And then make sure your sliders are moving easily. If they don't move easily, you have to pull them out and clean them up, then grease them.
@CodytheCarGuy did all that. It was still the springs not sliding perfectly in place, but eventually got it to where one pressed on the outside while the other slid in. It was a pain put they are in, now to prepare for the next side.. ☠️
@brand10000 I hope you did a little grease in there so the pads can slide some, otherwise they can get stuck and drag some.Also over time you get some build up or corrosion on the bracket. I take a file and clean it up and it works perfect after that.
No, you can reuse the rotors, but make sure they are not worn with a groove at the outer edge and also if you have a pulse in your brake pedal when stopping because that means a warped rotor. You can take the rotors to orielys and they can turn your rotors too.
Until you feel it giving resistance like it normally would when you hit the breaks. You will notice the difference in the first few pumps until it tightens up again
Two reasons I wear gloves now after spinning wrenches for 50 years: 1) The grease and grime will absorb through the skin, bad for long term workers: 2) You sometimes gotta take a mean piss and don’t have time to wash up before you let loose. Gloves strip off quickly. And with clean hands you save having to wash up yet another digit.
This is called a pad slap job, sloppy, he is trying to win a race of who get the break pad done first. Several important things were omitted. 1) Should probably check the rotors for resurface or replaced (looked like theres in this video are still ok), if the rotors are worn the pads wont last 2) before pushing against the caliber piston, open the break fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) first, when u push the pistol a lot of pressure going back, open the cap will prevent it from blowing up. Or better do a proper bleed, there are plenty of vodieos. Fluid needs to be replaced at least every 2 years anyways due to its breakdown and lowering of the boilding temperature. 3) No lubrication whatsover was mentioned, those things are probably going to sequel sooner or later (probably sooner, if not immediately), need grease on the "ears" of the pads and while youre at it - grease up the slide pins to ensure that they are not rusted in there and can move freely. 4) Torque the lug nuts to spec ! too strong or too loose and you are asking for additional issues. 5) before driving off - pump up the brakes first !!! Side Note: if you are going to do the bleeding procedure go ahead and do all 4 wheels. All of this may be obvious to some, this note is mostly for those who are going to take this tutorial verbatim.
