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High oil consumption is highly practical. The car changes the oil while you drive as long as you top up regularly. Just change the filter occasionally. :P
The smoke will be worse when you back off the throttle, (on over-run) as a vacuum is created in the cylinders, pulling in oil down the valve stems and up past the rings. :-)
Hey man odd question, but based on this, is this why they recommend varying loads while breaking in a generator? I am trying to figure out the most effective way to break in engines so they last longer, i am wondering if they rings will seal better.
@@SkylineFinesse on a diesel generator the worst that can happen is not building enough cylinder pressure. If you want to break it in correctly, you need a pretty good load. Approximately 80% of the maximum load. Just keep an eye on the temps. What help rings to seal is cylinder pressure, so high RPM with not enough load is the worst. Same problem on gasoline engines, but on diesel engine, if you don't break it in correctly the first time, you can glue your rings in place, and you will basically ruin the engine. (it's called coking the rings, and you will have black/white smoke and wet staking) Don't forget to make an oil change including the filter pretty soon in the life of the engine.
I am not a profficient Russian speaker or anything but I think Vlad's language is rather clean. I don't think I've heard a lot of Ebots or Cukas or Blyats. I second the blin, which is kind of like "flip" or "shoot" as described before. It's not "manly" for Russian men to swear. Fedor Emilienenko, a very famous Russian fighter, is a very good example of this.
Yes I taught same, but then I got it. Oil rings lubricates cylinders. But without oil in all place it start to knock? Hello Garage 54 team! Nice test😃 Now summer is almost gone for my video idea, but I haven't got answer earlier. I"ll keep sending this message to new videos too, till I got answered😉 Try to make a anfibio car? Weld many propellos to drive shaft, so own engine will work on water too😂 If using samara, it is easier to use outboard motor👍 I am doing same to my Samara, when it is too rusty after few years😅 Please, do not make Titanic 2😅 Use some arm floats👍 Greetings from Finland from Lada fan... What a car! So reliable and cheap to use! Using Ladas from year -07! Using Samara and rare model in Finland➡Granta😎
@Mona Torkia The industrial version of the v55 engines do have valve seals. I guess for army use it's acceptional to use oil. Cost & simple production are the reason I guess. If they want smoke, they can inject extra fuel into the exhaust. So that's not the reason.
Milo's tank needed the injectors working on, but even then the exhaust cleared at higher revs. Garage 54 show that while the styling of the car may be a joke Lada's are brutally tough.
@@NJPurling Yeah nothing cant beat old Lada also iam curious what happend when they drive next 50 Km and add oil too probablly spark plugns not working well.
Next project: Put a T connector on the fuel line next to the carburetor and plumb in a small copper line. Next introduce different liquids like anti freeze, oil, alcohol, etc. to see how much it makes smoke when it is naturally aspirated.
@@ItsIdaho That thing was insane. Smoked at least as much as the lada here... And something really peculiar resulted from it... I'm assuming it was diamond, no other realistic explanation... But after enough oil burned in it, it appears the carbon on the valve faces changed over time... I've seen it in very small quantities, usually on the exhaust valve, but this was *caked* and I was unable to even chip it. Looked like fine packed snow. Thick coating... Could have used it for grinding metal if you put it in a drill. I lost the valve that I took out in a move (it eventually burned not one but two), and have never seen it anywhere else. Web came up empty last time I looked, or my fu sucks lol. I would love to see someone reproduce it but I'm thinking it will take a while to form. Longer than anyone is willing to wait lol Many many miles. 20, 30k?
Some racing engines, especially in motorcycles,were never fitted with oil control rings for lower internal friction. Because the tolerances were so tight on the engines not much oil was burned. Honda rc166 is an example
Considering the amazing RPM the RC166 worked at (which was even higher in the 50 twin and the125 five) and how tiny each piston was, I wonder if the physical properties of the oil - and the tiny tolerances of these engines - slowed its capacity to react to the temporary vacuum produced on the overrun. Certainly videos of these engines being warmed up by blipping the throttle do show a puff of smoke every time the throttle is released, but only when the engine has some warmth into it, suggesting that the higher viscosity of the cold oil prevents it from being drawn up into the combustion chambers. At any rate the smoking is never remotely comparable to Vlad's Lada.
I've been working on this experiment myself.... My 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0 valve seals from the factory were literally junk... It's a nice veil of smoke though if someone's tailgating you early in the morning after startup
I did that with my 1991 Honda Civic. A little more low-end torque and a huge loss at higher rpm. Fuel economy is hard to accurately measure, but it seemed to help.
I love this channel, you said it in the intro, "We all know the theory but we've never seen it in practice". These videos should be taught to every mechanic to produce QUALITY mechanics that LOVE their job.
I'd be interested to see if doing this to a diesel would cause a runaway... considering one of the most common reasons why they do is due to excessive oil consumption...
@@rome5628 They did add oil into a diesel manually by putting a hose with an oil bottle onto the intake. That’s something else from removing the oil retain rings
Oil coming by worn out oil ring that let pass more than expected wouldn't cause a runaway diesel, it is just not enough. Contrary to a destroyed turbo that has dramatic leaking seal which is the most common cause to runaway.
Removing the oil rings creating piston slap, that’s the knocking it was making at start up…The piston was free to bounce off the cylinder wall with the removal of the oil rings…
When you pulled the oil rings off, it would have been a great time to find a compression ring that would fit that groove. The extra compression and vacuum wi
The extra compression while accelerating and vacuum with the throttle lifted would have been a good show also. The valve stem seals usually are more noticeable after an engine is idled for a few minutes and then accelerated as at a red light. I have a Six cylinder Lycoming aircraft engine on an airboat. Most aircraft engines are built without valve stem seals, but they don't sit around at red lights either. I love the shows, you guys must stay up most of the night to think of new stuff to try. Great show keep them coming.
My 2001 Cadillac Deville Northstar engine with 166k miles, had a blown head gasket. The number one cylinder was leaking exhaust into the coolant system. One of the 4 bolts around the cylinder, threads were stripped out. The number cylinder was also raw. So I removed the piston and horn it out. I decided to rebuild the engine because all the compression rings were loose. I could not get the pistons to go back in with the new oil control rings. So I put 4 piston back in without oil control rings and 4 with old oil control rings. Until I found this video. I didn't think anyone had ever done this before. I'm going to upload a video to show if any smoke come out the tail pipe.
We drilled a hole into the exhaust manifold and fitted a copper tube. Then ran a hose to the wiper fluid container and used diesel instead of wiper fluid. Then when driving the car and giving it some diesel with use of the wiper fluid lever it smoked so much through the tail pipe. We did use a V6 though.
Build an engine an inline 4 that fires 2 pistons at a time To see if it makes more or less power kw and nm As an inline 4 has 2 pistons at tdc at the same time
It will make less of both unless it has independent throttle bodies, since the cylinders will be sucking air through the same throttle at the same time. That's assuming it doesn't vibrate so bad the dyno will work.
I don't know if anyone has done that with a 4 cylinder motorcycle engine, but for a long time I've thought it would be cool to do if one had the resources to do it. You would have the torque characteristics of a twin and the rpm of a 4, to some degree. Can anyone add any insight to this?
When I was a kid I had a 87 Ford escort, after sitting overnight when I start the engine there would be thick white smoke out the tall pipe. For 5 minutes it would smoke out the whole neighborhood. Nobody could see within a square block. I finally get rid of it when the clutch went.😁
This is actually pretty common in racing. In karts some people would weld then regrind their cams to get the perfect lift on the valves. This was before you could buy anything you wanted over the internet and had to make things yourself. My father had a machine shop and they would blueprint kart motors all the time
I am reminded about my first car, an old Lada Riva. The cylinder head spent time in the bath being cleaned before I took it to have the valve seals replaced.
My older brother had an old Harley and was going to put rings in it. What he got was an oil ring missing replaced with a compression ring. He put it together and yes the cylinder with a normal ring rather than an oil ring did smoke some. He rode it a long time that way.
I got a good challenge for ya, if that Lada Engine is a cross flow head, reverse the flow and put the carb on the driver's side and exhaust on the passenger side.
@@ericblack1477 it's not. have one lada samara on restoration, engine is on table in parts. Incredible simple engine, 4 cylinder, 4 stroke, 8 valves OHC carburated engine.
@@lordred7462 I used to build pinto Engines for racing, 2000cc and 2300cc. Lada engine almost looks like it was modeled after the pinto engines. the 2.0 pinto engine I was able to get them to push around 280hp. I'm willing to bet them Lada engines can do the same.
Hey, got a video idea for you guys: Instead of a using a normal steering wheel, replace it with a "Tilt/push wheel". In doing so, replacing the rotary action of a normal steering wheel with a push/pull action. I'd love to see how this works, and if it'd be best with a 1:1 ratio, or something else. Thanks guys.
Without the wiggly piston ring, or the "oil spreader" ring I think the cylinder was hitting metal cylinder wall. That last ring is made for wiping the oil evenly across the walls
I once had a Honda with about 300,000 miles on the original engine. It used about a quart of oil a week, but it just kept on going and going. The valve stem seals were shot and it just wasn't worth fixing, so, kept driving. Summertime smoke show was amazing lol.
Somehow this doesn't sound right but I don't have a better explanation lol It would seem to me that the pistons would still move laterally unrestricted regardless of the presence of the rings... And should glide vertically just the same...? Shrug. Explanation would be good haha
@@MadScientist267 the pistons will effectively be wobbling as they go up and down the cylinder walls because the piston rings are not present to hold the pistons steady the pistons will still go up and down but will just be wobbling as they do so that is why they call it piston slap because the pistons are effectively slapping the cylinder walls hence the rattling noise
My brothers Prius used so much oil that he would come back with nothing on the dipstick after a day out. We never changed the oil only kept topping it off and changed the filter.
I used to have a car that used about 1qt (a less than 1L) of oil between oil changes (3000 miles or about 5000km) but it would go through 1qt of oil during one track day event. Never saw it smoke, but I was paying attention to what was in front of me rather than behind most of the time. Anyway, the reason I say that is that how the car is driven has a huge effect on how much oil it uses. This particular car had kind of a high rpm engine (7500rpm redline) so most of the time on the track was spent between 6000-7000rpm.
When turbo seals go out it smokes even more. The oil that's supposed to run into the bearing runs straight into the exhaust and the turbo eventually burns up. We had sparks shooting out of the exhaust and rolled into a gas station with a huge wave of oil smoke behind us to buy 4 quarts of oil. We got home with no oil on the dipstick and it still isn't locked up no clue how.
This reminds me of my old dad's car, it was smoking very bad, but not by that much. That's so funny. I liked the test! Can you guys make a test by making a engine very old with many internal clearances run hard?
We had 71 Chevy Nova, 230 6 cylinder . Old lady owned it so it was carboned up and smoked. We revved it up and poured a quart of ATF down the carb in an attempt to crystallize the carbon deposit and it would blow off. We took it for run down the highway to clear it out and it smoked so bad the police pulled us over ! Lol
In the days of yorn a common advice to check engine condition was to coast down a long hill then look in the mirror at the bottom as you hit the accelerator. Volvo pushrod engines could however smoke badly in such cases but still run fine for years, the real killer of the Volvo pushrods was too cold thermostats, people would put 82c thermostats and think it was good for the engine, there was even 78c thermostats available for the B16.
@@wton I had one engine in four Hyundais already ;) I crashed the first one head on, the other three were just beaters I got without engines in them. It outlived the car twice now ;)
Rule of thumb in USA difference of min-max is 1 QT on cars and light duty trucks and 1 gal on commercial type heavy duty trucks like tractor trailers and big diesels
Taking the rings off the pistons creates a greater piston to wall clearance making the piston rock against the walls or “piston slap” but most well known as knock
Removing valve stem seals can vary between engines as to smoke. Aussie Valiant Hemi sixes would give a big cloud on starting only when the seals were buggered, fine while driving though. Their valve stem seals are different than most though.
Original and interesting - as always. Removing the seals makes the engine lose compression, and thus power, but do not forget that oil in the cylinder increases the energy of the combustion, so a few HP could be retrieved?
